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I have mine set up as follows:
Steering sensitivity: 33%
Steering axis deadzone: 25%
(You may wish to adjust these to your personal preference)
Good point.
Also, if your controller switches off while the game is loaded or isn't switched on when the game loads, it may reset the controller input type.
Thanks for the help :)
Sonic racing even has better controls than this game.
Gearbox = Simple Automatic
Steering = Left Analog Stick
Acceleration\Brake = Right Analog Stick (Forward\Back)
Start\Stop Engine = Hat switch Right
Left+Right Blinkers = Left and Right Bumpers. (Button 4 and 5)
Light Mode = B (Button 3)
High Beam = Y (button 1)
Wipers = X (Button 2)
Cruise Control = A (Button 0)
HUD CONTROLS
Toggle Route Advisor Mode F3 = Left Analog Stick Button 8
Route Advisor Mouse Control F1 = Right START Button 7
Route Advisor Navigation Page F5 = Left BACK Button 6
Route Advisor Diagnostics Page F7 = Hat Switch Left
(NO MOUSE REQUIERED to look left\right\FORWARD)
LOOK LEFT\RIGHT = LEFT TRIGGER\RIGHT TRIGGER
INTERIOR Look FORWARD = LEFT ANALOG STICK FORWARD
Activate Enter = Hat Switch UP
Trailer Attach\Detach = Hat Switch DOWN
World Map = Right Analog Stick Press Button 9
You may need to SLIDE your (Look Left+Right Axis dead zone) one third and Inverted and Centered.
Iam using a Razer Sabertooth with extra buttons under the controlor.
IS there a way to have the game install this so I dont need to waste all my time in the menus? Id rather play the game than be trapped in menus.
(I use an xbox 360 controller)
As far as setting up the controller:
Start the Input Wizard via Options
Select Controllers
Select Gamepad/Joystick
Then assign all the analog inputs. While the game will psuedo assign them genericly I have found much better results if you just go through and manually assign them.
Steering Axis = Left Stick
Accelerator Axis = Right Trigger
Brake Axis = Left Trigger
Look Up-Down Axis = Up on the Right Stick
Look Left-Right Axis = Right on the Right Stick
Now remember, when you assign analog inputs you have to increase the DEADZONE until you can no longer see any yellow portions on the axis bars at idle. This will make sense when you set them up. Just don't increase DEADZONE any further than you have to as it will decrease the accuracy of your controls. The larger the DEADZONE, the more you have to move the controls before they work. You should only need to nudge the DEADZONE slightly.
*If you find that you have to use a large amount of DEADZONE (anything more than 10%) to remove all of the yellow bar at idle than you probably have an issue with your controller and will need to troubleshoot it and/or replace it.
You should not need to adjust your sensitivity.
Before you accept your analog settings use them all a few time to make sure everything is working appropriately. The yellow bars will tell the tale here.
My Xbox 360 Controller Settings:
Left Stick= Steering
Right Stick= Looking around
A = Light Mode
B = Trailer Attach / Detattch
X = Cruise Control
Y = Wipers
LB = Beacon or Down Shift
RB = Air Horn or Up Shift
LT = Brake / Reverse
RT = Accelerator
Back = Map
Start = Camera Mode
Hat Left = Left Blinker
Hat Right = Right Blinker
Hat Up = High Beams
Hat Down = Horn
Left Stick Button = Hazard Lights
Right Stick Button = Start / Stop Engine
I still use ENTER and the "F" keys via the keyboard because they are so rarely used.
Sadly, no there isn't at this time. You only have to do it once though and it doesn't take that long. A couple of minutes spent up front is worth the time.
Basically, the controls are pretty much unusable. This alone has made what is otherwise a fantastic game into something that is pretty much useless. The only reason others are having any success at all is that they likely never ever change their controllers. However, I use many types of controllers - from wheels to gamepads to flight sticks. Every other game has no problem with storing the correct configuration. But not this one.
Don't get me wrong - I still play this game, because I like it. But it is very very painful to set up. Every time I have to go in and competely reconfigure every setting on the controller that was not remembered - which is pretty much everything I wonder why I bother.
I have, on a number of occasions, started the game without my controller turned on but always remembered to exit the game prior to selecting my profile to play. I have never lost my configuration.
The only thing I can think of is that you might be swapping the different controllers (wheel/stick/pad) on the same exact USB port and you are causing some type of confusion with the HID protocol. It's not likely, but may just be the reason for your issue. It seems more likely that you are just loading your profile prior to having the controller plugged in and/or turned on first. The later being really simple to fix as it's just a matter of behavior adjustment on your part.
Good luck.