Euro Truck Simulator 2

Euro Truck Simulator 2

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Flip May 9, 2015 @ 4:32am
Realistic Fuel Consumption
Been trying to find out what this actually does and not getting any confirmation. Most of my searches come up against Dynamic Fuel Mod which I am not sure is the same thing.

From what I have guess based on the articles it changes fuel consumtion based on your driving (i.e load, speed etc) vs a static consumption (which is what it is when it is off). I also read when it is enable the Eco Driving skill becomes useless, anybody know if this is the case?
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Showing 1-15 of 19 comments
Surema May 9, 2015 @ 4:51am 
I think it works with engine rpm, bigger rmp=more fuel consumption
Flip May 9, 2015 @ 4:53am 
Thank you :)
SteelRodent May 9, 2015 @ 4:59am 
"Realistic fuel consumption" basically makes your fuel disappear faster. atleast that's what I found. With it on I get absolutely ridiculous fuel consumption and 600 L is barely enough to make it from one town to another, while you should be able to go minimum 1200 km (about the full length of Europe) with that much fuel. I find the consumption is more realistic with it off.

Same thing with the "realistic air brakes". It seems to just greatly handicap the compressor rather than act at all realistic, because after a couple red lights I'm out of air and stuck for a really long time. Makes it impossible to drive in the city. The fact that the air pressure warning light also don't come on till you're out of air doesn't help (instead of before you run out like it's supposed to), as well as no or unreadable air pressure gauges.
Flip May 9, 2015 @ 5:14am 
Interesting, thanks for feedback. Got a Volvo FH and dones about 3 jobs now. 1 Full tank has taken me from Kobenhavn - Szczecin, Szczecin - Kobenhavn & Kobenhavn - Karlskrona and still got 2,200KM left in the tank with Realistic Consumption On. Still about 3/4 full. Seems to be using less fuel than I am used to.
If your running out of air you need to use the brakes properly . Exhaust brake or retarder to slow and footbrake to stop you shouldnt be using the footbrake to slow down .

As for fuel consumption I have it turned on and provided you dont drive like a loony it works pretty well if you use the engine and gears properly .
room217au May 9, 2015 @ 5:22am 
Originally posted by metalbunny:
"Realistic fuel consumption" basically makes your fuel disappear faster. atleast that's what I found. With it on I get absolutely ridiculous fuel consumption and 600 L is barely enough to make it from one town to another, while you should be able to go minimum 1200 km (about the full length of Europe) with that much fuel. I find the consumption is more realistic with it off.
Realistic fuel consumption means the fuel consumption changes with the type of load. With the option off, the same fuel consumption is seen, no matter what load.
I've never driven any semi-trailer that can get 1200km on 600L of fuel. Some of the bigger trucks here work on 1km/litre.
Originally posted by metalbunny:
Same thing with the "realistic air brakes"... because after a couple red lights I'm out of air
So don't use the brakes so much. Use the retarder. Back off the throttle, click the retarder one time. That's enough to scrub off heaps of speed around town. One thing I learned from someone here was to bind the retarder to the mouse-wheel. Works great for me.
v1.17 has definitely changed air use. In v1.16, press the brakes three times and tanks are depleted (thank your lucky stars that ETS2 doesn't have a "low air" warning buzzer). I think this air use change has come about from the interpolation added to the brake pedal. Before this alteration when the footbrake was pressed, using a keyboard, it was akin to flooring the brake pedal (which you can do easily on a full-air system) which does use a significant amount of air when the pedal is released.
SubTonic May 9, 2015 @ 6:12am 
Using simulated air pressure and haven't once ran out and been forced to sit. Retarder + exhaust brake combination for slowing down, then use the air brake to come to a complete stop. It takes practice to judge the distance correctly, and I still misjudge it occasionally and have to apply full emergency air brakes, but it's certainly the way to go about it.

I'll add to this, actually: The retarder is great for slowing down from an already high speed. Apply it once or twice (or three or four times if your retarder goes in four or five stages), then once you get properly slowed down, apply the exhaust brake. If you're really hauling ass, you might want to just apply full retarder. After that, you'll slow to a crawl. Then you just tap the air brakes and you'll stop. If you've ever seen a truck at a stop light, you'll notice that they'll do this same crawling towards the intersection before stopping, because this is basically what they're doing. I've never seen a truck go from full speed to 0 using its air brakes.

Then once the light turns green and it's time to go, always remember to have disengaged the retarder before you accelerate again (the game will warn you anyway). Just do this once you stop. Sometimes I even do it when I'm applying my exhaust brake, as long as I'm sure I don't need it anymore.

A note about that exhaust brake, as well: It seems to be much more effective at lower speeds than it is at higher speeds. Never use it to slow down from anything above 20mph/30kmh unless you don't have a retarder in your transmission. Whenever I was doing quick jobs and this was the case, I'd obviously have to use more air brakes than usual, but I'd also be using the exhaust brake WELL in advance.
Last edited by SubTonic; May 9, 2015 @ 6:27am
Gizmo May 9, 2015 @ 6:24am 
i have no idea why some of you guys are having problems with the air brakes, ive never had that.. never.. and i carnt say im uber pro and use the engine brake/retarder a lot either.... the ONLY times ive have low pressure is when doing it purposly... just sitting there flooring the brake repeatedly.... ive never had it in normal gamplay....
Gizmo May 9, 2015 @ 6:28am 
@subsonic

im gonna give that a go.... ive never really used the retarder on a regular basis.. maybe i should..

my t500rs is a great wheel but its button layout is cr@p for regualer use... gonna have to go through my bindings see what i can loose..... wipers can go for a start lol....
SubTonic May 9, 2015 @ 6:30am 
You certainly don't NEED to do all of that, because you're correct in that using the air brake only, but smartly, will usually never lead to losing all pressure. I just use the full brake system because it's more fun that way. It makes me have to really judge my braking distance like a real trucker does. Whenever I pull off a perfect brake job at a stop light, coming up exactly behind the line or behind a car, it's just very satisfying.
Last edited by SubTonic; May 9, 2015 @ 6:32am
Gizmo May 9, 2015 @ 6:42am 
yea.. im all for RP realism :D....

i guess my main issue with ussing air 100% of the time is that its hard to judge when to come off the brake..... like your hauling @ss... nail the brake to scrub off the speed then once momentum decresses the air brakes get verry harsh... im constatly comming up to lights or junctions and stopping dead (like hitting a brick wall lol) a few feet before the actual lights are car infront... thats not the game, that me being a n00b :D...

what you say above sounds like what im after....

wish me luck all!!!!! :D
As the damage level increases on your truck you will gradually lose air pressure due to leaks . A ferry crossing or rest stop will result in zero air and having to sit with the revs jammed to re air the tanks .
Tark May 10, 2015 @ 6:29am 
Originally posted by metalbunny:
"Realistic fuel consumption" basically makes your fuel disappear faster. atleast that's what I found. With it on I get absolutely ridiculous fuel consumption and 600 L is barely enough to make it from one town to another, while you should be able to go minimum 1200 km (about the full length of Europe) with that much fuel. I find the consumption is more realistic with it off.

Same thing with the "realistic air brakes". It seems to just greatly handicap the compressor rather than act at all realistic, because after a couple red lights I'm out of air and stuck for a really long time. Makes it impossible to drive in the city. The fact that the air pressure warning light also don't come on till you're out of air doesn't help (instead of before you run out like it's supposed to), as well as no or unreadable air pressure gauges.
I don't have either of these issues with using the "realistic" fuel and brake functions. I am driving a 4x2 and get approximately 1700 miles of driving before having to tank up again. The maximum does fluctuate with weight of the load I am hauling.

As for the air brakes, I have yet to run out of air unless I am doing a lot of seriously hard braking. Currently the only time I've had to wait for air pressures is after sleeping for three cycles in a row.

Different strokes for different folks...
Gráhærður Feb 5, 2016 @ 3:34pm 
Is there a way for the fuel to go down faster? i have been playing for weeks with my new Volvo, and i have not needed to refuel once, and i still have 3/4 full tank.
Nono54Fr Feb 5, 2016 @ 3:59pm 
80tons trailer and 1st / 2nd gear, 200-400l / 100kms
Last edited by Nono54Fr; Feb 6, 2016 @ 12:43pm
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Date Posted: May 9, 2015 @ 4:32am
Posts: 19