Gear changing sounds in 1.17

[Pickle Bath]

Anyone else notice the new gear changing sounds in 1.17? Definitely not a fan of them. They seem to be the same between all the trucks, and sound so broken down / grindy that I imagine I'm driving an old beater truck. I looked through the options and I couldn't see a way to turn them off. Unfortunate :(

[room217au]

Internal gear air noises are the same. If you use a wheel kit with a shifter, then extra noises may be heard to simulate the movement of the stick from one slot to another.
I know they've added seat noises and suspension noises in v1.17.x

The only thing I can suggest, is to find a sound mod for your particular truck.

[Paulo Roberto AS]

Yeah, I notice too, the sounds happen when you change the gear too fast,
try hold the clutch a bit more, try to change the gears more gently, so the sound will not appear.

[Menacing Scarab]

The gears grind when you don't sync the motor properly now.

For upshifting (going from 5th to 6th for example) you need to let your RPMs drop by 500, so run it up to 1500 or 1600 RPMs, push the clutch in, shift, then do not let the clutch back out until you've ridden the RPMs back down to 1000 or 1100 depending on where you started your shift.

For downshifting (going from 6th to 5th for example) you need to raise the RPMs of the engine to match the new, lower gear so you will push the clutch in, move your stick, but before letting the clutch back out you will also hit the accelerator to push your RPMs up by 500 then you can let your clutch out.

You may need to adjust how much you drop or raise your RPMs depending on how many gears you are taking at one time and the ratios of the different transmissions. The way you want to look for it is to have that tachometer not really move at all from your clutch being in to after your let the clutch out. So if your new gear needs to be at 1100 then you want to have that needle as close to 1100 as possible before letting your clutch out.

[room217au]

Originally posted by Menacing Scarab(Raven31211):

The gears grind when you don't sync the motor properly now.

For upshifting (going from 5th to 6th for example) you need to let your RPMs drop by 500, so run it up to 1500 or 1600 RPMs, push the clutch in, shift, then do not let the clutch back out until you've ridden the RPMs back down to 1000 or 1100 depending on where you started your shift.

For downshifting (going from 6th to 5th for example) you need to raise the RPMs of the engine to match the new, lower gear so you will push the clutch in, move your stick, but before letting the clutch back out you will also hit the accelerator to push your RPMs up by 500 then you can let your clutch out.

You may need to adjust how much you drop or raise your RPMs depending on how many gears you are taking at one time and the ratios of the different transmissions. The way you want to look for it is to have that tachometer not really move at all from your clutch being in to after your let the clutch out. So if your new gear needs to be at 1100 then you want to have that needle as close to 1100 as possible before letting your clutch out.

Yep. In the RW it's called the 'sweet spot' :D
Also double-clutching can help you get the right revs.

[margalus]

I noticed it last night after hitting a car head-on doing 122kph... Really nice grinding noise... then I lost 12th gear and only had 11. Made it to the repair shop though.

[room217au]

Originally posted by margalus:

I noticed it last night after hitting a car head-on doing 122kph... Really nice grinding noise... then I lost 12th gear and only had 11. Made it to the repair shop though.

The bizarre part about this game is if you actually hit another vehicle at 120kph in RL .. you wouldn't be doing any driving for some time.
And if you're in a cabover? Bullbar or not, you may not be doing much walking for some time either.

[Paulo Roberto AS]

Originally posted by Menacing Scarab(Raven31211):

The gears grind when you don't sync the motor properly now.

For upshifting (going from 5th to 6th for example) you need to let your RPMs drop by 500, so run it up to 1500 or 1600 RPMs, push the clutch in, shift, then do not let the clutch back out until you've ridden the RPMs back down to 1000 or 1100 depending on where you started your shift.

For downshifting (going from 6th to 5th for example) you need to raise the RPMs of the engine to match the new, lower gear so you will push the clutch in, move your stick, but before letting the clutch back out you will also hit the accelerator to push your RPMs up by 500 then you can let your clutch out.

You may need to adjust how much you drop or raise your RPMs depending on how many gears you are taking at one time and the ratios of the different transmissions. The way you want to look for it is to have that tachometer not really move at all from your clutch being in to after your let the clutch out. So if your new gear needs to be at 1100 then you want to have that needle as close to 1100 as possible before letting your clutch out.

There is something strange here, since I hold the clutch for, lets say, more than 1,5 seconds, I don't need to sync anything,

I mean, as example on the game, when I upshift from 6th (2000 rpm) to 7th, the "correct" would be -500 RPM (1500), but if I let the RPM drop to the minimum (600), and let the clutch out, the rpm would rise as the gears are connect to the engine, but there is no grind sound,
since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For downshift, I can change the gear with no need to "up" the rpm (accelerating), and there is no grind noises, again, since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For some reason, the game don't need to "match" the RPM, you just need to change the gears a bit slower.

[Menacing Scarab]

Originally posted by Paulo Roberto AS:

There is something strange here, since I hold the clutch for, lets say, more than 1,5 seconds, I don't need to sync anything,

I mean, as example on the game, when I upshift from 6th (2000 rpm) to 7th, the "correct" would be -500 RPM (1500), but if I let the RPM drop to the minimum (600), and let the clutch out, the rpm would rise as the gears are connect to the engine, but there is no grind sound,
since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For downshift, I can change the gear with no need to "up" the rpm (accelerating), and there is no grind noises, again, since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For some reason, the game don't need to "match" the RPM, you just need to change the gears a bit slower.

Definitely interesting then because while I can say that matching on the upshift probably causes me to sit on the clutch the same amount of time as you do, I know the downshifts don't take as long for me to complete so it makes me wonder how they actually have written the game to handle the gear changes now.

[Paulo Roberto AS]

Originally posted by Menacing Scarab(Raven31211):

Originally posted by Paulo Roberto AS:

There is something strange here, since I hold the clutch for, lets say, more than 1,5 seconds, I don't need to sync anything,

I mean, as example on the game, when I upshift from 6th (2000 rpm) to 7th, the "correct" would be -500 RPM (1500), but if I let the RPM drop to the minimum (600), and let the clutch out, the rpm would rise as the gears are connect to the engine, but there is no grind sound,
since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For downshift, I can change the gear with no need to "up" the rpm (accelerating), and there is no grind noises, again, since I hold the clutch for more than 1.5 seconds.

For some reason, the game don't need to "match" the RPM, you just need to change the gears a bit slower.

Definitely interesting then because while I can say that matching on the upshift probably causes me to sit on the clutch the same amount of time as you do, I know the downshifts don't take as long for me to complete so it makes me wonder how they actually have written the game to handle the gear changes now.

Yeah, I don't fully understand what they did, I used 1.5 as a example, the real time to let the clutch out is when you hear the "air sound" of the gear changing, something like 1 to 1.2 seconds.
I tried a lot of different things, like double clutch, heel and toe (like racing games), different times, hold the accelerator, etc,
but the only thing that seems to change was the time.

[jbwest72]

They have made the manual gear shifting more like real life. It is correct that you should wait until the "air sound" before releasing the clutch and meet with the throttle. I have also noticed that it is shorter time when downshifting. It also depends if you are skipping gears.

[Randox]

The grinding sound comes from the shift itself, not the clutch (or at least, it should). The sound is either the gears themselves grinding (crashbox) or the dog clutch grinding against whatever gear you are trying to use. It happens when trying to shift into a gear when that gear set has a speed mismatch between the input and output. It shouldn't be possible to shift into a lower gear with such a transmission without double clutching, as this requires synchromesh, and synchromesh transmissions don't grind.

Strictly speaking, the transmissions in these trucks should really be double clutched in both directions I think? While the clutch is depressed, the input gears are freewheeling, not matching engine RPM. It may not matter, but you can use the engine to slow the input gears down as well, instead of waiting for it to happen.

Or you can just not use the clutch. It's important in a synchronized transmission to avoid damaging the synchromesh, but this type of transmission only requires the clutch when the vehicle isn't moving.

I don't know how they simulated it though. It may be some sort of frankenstein system that simulates a bit of both synchronized and not, to cater a bit to people who really know how to drive manuals, and those that don't.

[Paulo Roberto AS]

Originally posted by Randox:

The grinding sound comes from the shift itself, not the clutch (or at least, it should). The sound is either the gears themselves grinding (crashbox) or the dog clutch grinding against whatever gear you are trying to use. It happens when trying to shift into a gear when that gear set has a speed mismatch between the input and output. It shouldn't be possible to shift into a lower gear with such a transmission without double clutching, as this requires synchromesh, and synchromesh transmissions don't grind.

Strictly speaking, the transmissions in these trucks should really be double clutched in both directions I think? While the clutch is depressed, the input gears are freewheeling, not matching engine RPM. It may not matter, but you can use the engine to slow the input gears down as well, instead of waiting for it to happen.

Or you can just not use the clutch. It's important in a synchronized transmission to avoid damaging the synchromesh, but this type of transmission only requires the clutch when the vehicle isn't moving.

I don't know how they simulated it though. It may be some sort of frankenstein system that simulates a bit of both synchronized and not, to cater a bit to people who really know how to drive manuals, and those that don't.

No, is not accurate to real gearbox, ready my post about the time, you just need to hold the clutch for 1.1 second, then will be no grindy noises.

And on this game, you cannot change gear with no use of clutch (manual + H shifter), the gear simply stay with no change.