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1. Turn down your sensitivity until you think is comfortable but also precise. I keep it around 5%-9% of the sensitivity bar. If you set it too high the steering wheel turns too fast.
2. My mouse movement with my hand ranges from 0,5 - 3 cm (5mm - 30mm) movement depending on how tight the curve is (being precise is key).
3. You MUST KEEP your hand firm always in tight curves, and make precise slow movements (right to left-left to right, it is not a steering wheel so you don't need to move it in circles) whenever you're in a tight curve or city.
4. When you get to a curve don't move your mouse quickly, I do it slowly and precisely as the curves gets tighter, and then move it back to center, precisely and slowly (All this in slow velocity 40-50 km/h, 8th transmission in an Scania or Volvo, 7th if it gets too bad).
5. To make precise movements with it in tight curves you need to lower your velocity. I use the retarder a lot and in case I need an even more precise movement in a special transport, I use the air brakes.
6. Use the retarder (avoid air brakes unless very necessary in slow velocity, I use air brakes simulation to help me get used to it) and cruise control, very helpful for mouse steering practice and for relaxing your hand.
SOME CONTROLS ASSIGNMENT TIPS:
a) Mouse controls:
I set Mouse Zoom for Left button and Free look for Right Button (I use free look whenever I want to lean towards the direction I'm turning to in a curve, then set it back to normal with the number 1, but honestly I never use it). I set my Mouse Wheel for Sequential Transmission.
b) Keyboard tips:
W-A: Accelerating and Braking.
A-D: Turn left-right indicator.
R-A: F for increasing retarder, R for decreasing.
Q-E: Look left, look right.
Alt: Back to Neutral.
My mouse is a 5 dollar Genius wireless.
There might be info you don't need here, but I wanted to make it as complete as I could.
ah well, its your choice.