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Once you unlock High Rank armour all you need is to craft the armour of the look you want. No need to further upgrade them.
You just need to make High Rank armour. If you have not unlocked it yet, you will later on with story progression.
Once it's unlocked the smith will have two completely different tabs of armor you can craft: Low Rank (LR) and High Rank (HR). If you don't have two tabs of armor, then you only have access to LR armor and cannot unlock layered armor yet.
The Layered version of armor is unlocked after crafting ANY piece of HR armor. You don't need to upgrade the armor or anything to unlock the layered version. You may then go into your tent, select the menu option ALL the way to the right and apply layered armor via the "Equipment Appearance" menu.