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thx for the reply
:)
thank you! much appreciated your feedback ) waiting for new creations from you too )
way more dick way to do that could be give weapons, but take away vtol abilities, as it should be in real life...
because when you`re in the middle of transition, you yet have some lifting power from engines and some quickly rising lifting power from wings, so autopilot struggles to keep altitude stable. that`s why if you want to keep things smooth, you have to do transition gently, in a few steps.
while hovering, set nozzle angle to 25-30 and wait for about 150 km/h ias
then reduce throttle to about 85 and set nozzle to 45-50
wait for about 250 km/h
set throttle to 65 and nozzle to 90
same story with transition from horizontal flight to vtol mode - be gentle and watch the throttle, otherwise you`ll have uncontrollable dive because of too low thrust
Why does the craft perform a nose dive when I increase the nozzle to 90 degrees?
It's probably something to do with the flaps, I'm sure, but I just wanted to make sure if it was a bug or not, and how to fix it.
left panel, arm weapons, spacebar to fire. let`s say, it`s old soviet S-8 unguided rockets.
но, возможно, я немного поступлюсь реалистичностью, пока не знаю. еще не тестил обновление.
Этот был тестовый летак он с собой мог только подвесы возить
thanks!
@L0St
спасибо! оригинал сам по себе очень красив, так что было нетрудно
also, during start-up, the nose just start pointing upwards, i tried to correct it, then the seat launched itself 223 feet away from the ship. RIP
that`s possible if
1. reaction jets wasn`t enabled
2. pitch stabilizer failed
3. too much lifting power applied because of the cold weather, so ascend speed was too much and pitching up torque generated by tail stabilizators overcome the reaction jets stabilizing ability
basically that`s why they developed CK-3M - to save pilots.
this system was implemented to yak-38 and yak-141, and no pilots were killed in crashes with this system on.
for +20 C about 98% is required for the liftoff, however for -20 it could be enough just 85%. do not push the engines too hard, it can fail because of overload.
switch ignition off only when exhaust temperature reaches stable 450+ degrees. but it`s really important to switch it off - ignition modules overheats and fails if running more than 3 minutes straight.
you have to let them cool down for a couple minutes before using again.
12. ENGINE THROTTLE SET: 43
50 is ok for idle, for +15 C outside temperature
13. AFTER RPM REACHES AROUND 25, FLIP BOTH GT-16PC SWITCHES TO ON, AS WELL AS BOTH GSR-9000 SWITCHES
you can do that when "IDLE" sign comes on
16. R/JETS: ON
and
20. NOZZLE POSITION SET: 90
keep in mind that reaction jets system bleeds air from engines, yes, but the valves between compressors and system itself operates by hydraulics power servo system, also are the nozzles. so nozzles won`t turn and r/jets will not come on if there`s not enough pressure in power servo and P/SRV light on the warning panel is on.
8. ENGINE THROTTLE SET: 25
20 to 30 is okay depending on air temperature. lower temp means easier start for turbojets.
9. HOLD STARTER AND FLIP ONE OF 2 IGNITION SWITCHES, THEN RELEASE STARTER
no neccesary to hold starter button, just press it for a sec.
you can enable ignition before starter, or vice versa - no difference.
10. AFTER ENGINE SPOOLS, FLIP L/R STARTER SWITCH TO ON, THEN REPEAT STEP 9 WITH THE OTHER SWITCH.
keep in mind there will not second engine ignition sound because of that single-double engine problem.