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I got there without Malenia's rune and couldn't open the door at all, but I could still fast travel.
Its because you didnt get sent there with the trap chest, or you rested at a grace before using the teleport, which lets you fast travel again.
Its the same mechanic with the chest in limgrave that sends you to caelid
Elden Ring when seeing a ton of bloodstains - The above, but there is no ambush, or enemies, or anything at all, beside the clearly visible ledge on your right. And you just feel confused.
I've often felt this way. I didn't remember messages and stains being such ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ until elden ring. DS3 was fine. Here there's so much nonsense.