Complete Tankery Guide (v1.61)

This guide will teach you nearly everything you need to know in War Thunder Ground Forces!
This also includes the Pros/Cons of nearly all vehicles in War thunder!
This Guide is meant to be easy to understand but does go into detail at times
I, and a few others, are currently working on a Tank Weakspots guide. More info at bottom of this guide.

Introduction

No longer recieving updates, if someone wants to take over this project please message me

Guide contains most vehicles as of update v1.61
Most of the information here is correct, it just does not have an up to date list of vehicles

Apologies for any dead links, please inform me if you notice any
This guide goes into great detail of almost every tank in War Thunder and into many tactics on how to excel in said tanks.

Due to the size of this guide a few links to other guides for different topics are included
Example: Seperate guides for ranging targets, Tank specific guides, Tank background information

Please Share your information in the comments below and i'll be sure to add it!

Roles

Light Tanks

Light tanks should try to keep on the move as much as possible. Move from cover to cover or along natural depressions in the landscape to avoid enemy fire. Once in a good position, take aim carefully and fire only a shot or two before repositioning.

Medium tanks

Use your mobility to capture points and flank the enemy. Your gun will allow you to attack enemies from the front, if necessary, at close range.

Heavy tanks

Stay at a distance from the enemy in order to make best use of your armor. Your gun will be able destroy nearly all enemies at range, carefully aimed shots can often destroy targets in a single shot.

Tank destroyers

Try to stay in depressions in the landscape, and use cover to secure your flanks from enemy fire. Use your penetration to pick off enemies in your line of fire.

SPAA

Thanks to Marrv for this wonderful information!

Take SPAA into training room, take down everything. Invite players, shoot them down. Keep going until your eyes bleed.

• On maps pay attention in RB ground where planes spawn (with you in a plane, or friendlies spawning) remember these locations as they do not change for Squadron battles.
  
  
• Remember the extra degrees of movement, makes it all a lot harder.
  
  
• Keep your eyes on a swivel, that plane at 1000m overhead may just be distracting you from the F8F coming in hard at your 5 o'clock low
  
  
• Try to keep track of enemy planes
  
  
• Remember if they going straight over you you're likely to be bombed
  
  
• Remember that you cannot shoot vertically upwards without trouble
  
  
• Try not to use the scope, use RMB & 3d person view, the speed of the targets makes scope more or less useless other than for initial spotting or long range observations
  
  
• Remember you can move your tank to aid traverse speeds.
  
  
• Try to put your tank in a hard to hit posistion, kursk this is nearly impossible. Rear of hills are good as makes bombing more awkward, best is against objects.
  
  
• Try to keep close to groups of friendlies as they will be the targets, (makes your life easier if they are trying to bomb them)
  
  
• Do not fire until the last moment as you will give away your an SPAA & they WILL change tactics (Realistic & Sim mostly but still relevant in arcade)
  
  
• Do not expose yourself to their ground forces, you have no armour!

Fighters

If acting as a fighter, hover at high altitude in the area between the ground battle area and the enemy airbase. Once you spot an enemy aircraft, dive in behind it and shoot it down.
Remember your main objective is to protect Bombers.

Attackers / Fighter bombers

Come in at low altitude and use bombs and rockets to destroy the enemy's armored vehicles. Don't forget to set your bombs for a small delay so that you are not destroyed by their blast.

Dive bombers

Use tracer fire to find targets and then dive on them. Your air-brakes will help you slow down and make it easier to pull up. Release your bombs as late as possible before pulling out of your dive.

Bombers

Use your altitude to avoid SPAA. Use the tracer fire to aim your bombs.
[/list]

Spotting (Realistic and Simulator)

• Hill lines
  Quite simply do not break them when an enemy "crests" a hill they stand out like a sore thumb waiting to be hit with a large hammer. Some tanks are good at this due to VERY strong turrets, most tanks suck at it (or most players?). Often when an enemy is cresting a hill they do not consider the wider angles, they are focused on 12 o'clock. This often leaves the sides of the turret exposed to a nice juicy ammo rack shot or at least gunner/loader/commander/breach shot. While not a kill it does make most tankers panic when this all goes, you might even get horizontal & vertical drives as well. (or instead of)
  
• Movement
  Everyone knows a moving tank is easier to spot & harder to hit (to an extent) but movement also shows the enemy's tactics as well. The is a lot of assumptions and in PUGS your normally right, I expect in Squadron battles the enemy will be smarter. However, looking for "movement" is more than just seeing if you can see the enemies m41 racing towards you. If any of you have ever gone stalking or shooting I think you will know what I mean (& ofc those who have served, and no I do not mean prison). Movement boils down to anything breaking the lines of the pre-existing environment, so colour changes, shadows, trees moving, all of it. Use your binoculars to check it out. It might be nothing, it might be a doom turtle moving into position....
  
• Firing
  This is how I find the majority of my targets mid match, and it also how I get the response of "Ultra low quality B*tch" a lot of the time. I don't run ULQ as its ugly as f*ck. When any tank fires they produce a cloud of smoke, and often (but not always any more due to recent patch removing "tracers from non tracer tank rounds") a tracer of the shell. Tracing the trajectory backwards to the puff of smoke will give you a pretty good idea of where the enemy is hiding. If the a dense foliage cover there and your not in a position for the enemy to do something similar back to you then it is normally worth seeing if those bushes are not hiding a bigger surprise ;)
  With the tracer rounds now not being on all shell types you have to be more vigilant for the eruption of smoke as it is your only clue. On Kursk the AI's are a pain as this happens all over the place. However knowing where the AI will not be will allow you to make educated guesses.
  
• Colour Changes
  This ties in with movement a lot. Having your gfx settings fairly high helps here. If you are checking an area out with binoculars and you are looking through some bushes take note of the background colour, often it is light green/grey sometimes you will see a darker blob. If your position is safe (& have the shells to spare) putting a round in to the dark blob may yield a pleasant surprise.
  
• AI
  The AI have super senses and can often shoot at players you cannot see. It may be AI or a player but if you see a blue npc shooting it will be shooting any something hostile. Their accuracy is quite good so long as there is no hills between them & the target. So you can use their angle of attack to see where the enemy is. Conversely shoot the enemy AI when you're not under threat from players to stop them doing this to you!
  
• MG's
  Firing your MG's is nearly always a bad idea. Unless your target is open backed or you're absolutely desperate.

Shameless copypasta (Thanks Marvv for making my life easy) from thread i saw on my squadrons forums, i would link it but only members can see the page, everyone else will just get some angry text saying sign in or gtfo (not literally, you get it)

Combat

Never try to “take a hit” from an enemy tank waiting for you to leave cover. He will most likely disable your tank and you will get beaten. If you can’t gaurentee that the shot will bounce… don’t get shot at.

REMEMBER Not doing anything is better than making a mistake

Approaching enemies in close quarters

This is for medium and light tanks. Heavy tanks should always try to stay at least 500m away from the main combat zones
Before starting a close quarters, your thoughts should be:

• 1.Can I penetrate said enemy tank from the front, sides or rear?
  
• 2.Does the enemy notice me?
  
• 3.Are there other enemies that could fire at me? If yes is there any cover I can take from them while engaged
  always assume there are other enemies that can fire at you

If the enemy doesn't know you are coming you should attempt approaching the enemy from behind, or the side. Get close to him as quickly as possible, and park in cover, even if it means hiding behind said enemy (so he is between you and the other enemy tanks).
After you are in a good position, proceed to disable the enemy tank. Your priority should be staying protected while in the engagement, as you have the upper hand.

If the enemy knows you are coming you should make sure you get the first shot.
If he is facing the other way, quickly stop and disable him before he can aim at you. Then proceed with circling.
If the enemy is facing at you (waiting for you to pop out of cover), you have to “bait a shot” from him. After he fires, quickly pop out, aim carefully and disable his vehicle, and proceed with circling.

Disabling enemies

Disabling enemies means limiting their combat ability to give you an advantage, either by taking out their gun or their mobility. After an enemy is disabled you should never rush, since most module repairs in WT take well over 30s, with exceptions like tracks lasting around 15s.

Let’s say you found a target, made an engagement plan, approached and got them lined up in your sights. How should you disable them?
There are 3 safe main ways of disabling an enemy vehicle:

• Shoot their horizontal turret drive: It’s the motor that rotates their turret, and is located behind the turret ring (the small strip between the turret and the chassis).
  Some tanks have a really thin turret ring, or have protective metal “bumps” around it to protect it (mostly big German tanks). If your tank is too short to shoot over the protection, it’s best to go for the tracks.
  Example: The red rectangle on this T-34
  
  
• Tracking
  Shoot their tracks: Also called “tracking”, this will stop the enemy tank from turning one track. This can be done by shooting the drive sprocket, the idler wheel (opposite end), or by shooting the track itself.
  Example: The Green rectangle on the above T-34 (track) and the green circles shown above. (Drive and idler sprockets)
  
  It’s best to shoot the drive sprocket or idler wheel (The two frontmost and backmost sprockets), as the track itself can be hard to hit.
  Keep in mind that it’s best to destroy the track further from you, even though the closer one may be easier to hit.
  This can cause 2 things to happen, depending on whether the enemy is stationary or moving:
  
  1.The enemy is stationary When you track them correctly (shown green below) they will need to go in reverse to follow you. This makes circling them easier than if you shoot the near track (shown red) and allowed them to turn by going forward.
  2.If the enemy is moving toward you Tracking a moving enemy will cause them to turn towards the broken track immediately. Thus it’s again best to shoot the far track, since that will make them show their fragile side to you.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Shoot their engine: Engine hits don’t guarantee success, and may have 2 possible outcomes:
  
  1.The engine gets damaged and the enemy’s mobility reduced. This should be apparent as the enemy slows down, and should be treated like a tracking. Follow it up by another disabling shot.
  
  2.The enemy gets set on fire. If they didn’t research their extinguisher they will die in a matter of seconds, as the fire catches their ammo rack. If they do have an extinguisher they will simply put out the fire (They cannot do anything for about 5 seconds as they extinguish the fire)

Finishing enemies

After you disabled the enemy vehicle and are flanking it, you can go for the finisher.
The best way to finish an enemy vehicle is to shoot its ammo rack. The best second way is to get an explosive projectile into the crew compartment.

Ammo-racking is best done by firing into the side hull, just below the turret (most German/Russian tanks), or by firing into the back of the turret (mostly works on Russian tanks). If you are using ammo like APCR or HEAT, it’s best to know the exact location of the ammo rack inside the enemy tank.

Killing the crew is harder to accomplish, especially in big vehicles. It’s best to shoot an explosive projectile (example: APHE, APCBC-HE, HE) into the middle of the crew compartment. Watch out not to hit the tracks or spaced armor plating. Best places to target are the middle side of the hull or the lower side of the turret.

Ammo types

Tank Ammo - The quick guide
The above guide is much easier to understand if you want the basics, and has other info that you might find useful <3

In WT you will find most of the ammo types used in WW2. They have widely different effects and usage.
There are 5 important things to consider when choosing ammo:

1. Penetration- how thick of a plate it can go trough.
   
2. Mass- the raw damage potential of a shell, as well as a direct comparison to determine reload time. APCR is lighter than AP, and will usually load into the gun slightly faster.
   
3. Normalization- when a shell hits armor at an. angle, it “bends” towards the plate and slightly reduces the angle, thus making the armor thinner.
   
4. Cone of damage- the area in which shrapnel will disperse once the shell penetrates a tank. (Pretty much all stats are listed on a shell info card except this variable. This will change depending on what you shoot at.)
   
5. Penetration drop with distance- the amount of power the shell looses as it travels further.

Shells are divided into 2 categories:

Ballistic shells

• AP (Armor Piercing): Simple slug shot. Breaks on impact (usually) and has a cone where it will damage crew and modules. Bad against weakly armored tanks.
  
  
• APHE (Armor Piercing High Explosive): It’s a slug with an explosive behind it, which explodes a short time after initial impact, ideally inside the tank. The delay is called the arming time, and is represented with a number in the shell name (example MD-5 has shorter arm time than MD-8). Longer arm times are better, as they allow shells to penetrate deep into the tank, to do max damage with explosion. Another factor to note is fuse sensitivity. If the shot passes through armor with a thickness lower than the rated fuse sensitivity, the fuse will not begin it's arming process. This usually in turn leads to "overpenetration" where the shell will pass out the back of the tank without exploding, or occasionally exploding outside the target.
  Spaced armor plates (usually, unless the fuse sensitivity is low enough) completely negate APHE shells, as they detonate them outside the tank. Avoid shooting them.
  APHE is better at wrecking tanks than AP, and is great against weakly armored tanks.
  
  
• APC (Armor Piercing Capped): Has less penetration up close than AP, but loses less penetrating power over distance, making it superior for sniping. It also has better normalization, and is a bit heavier than regular AP.
  
  
• APBC (Armor Piercing Ballistic Cap): A middle ground between AP and APC. This shot has a soft Ballistic Cap, instead of a flattened head. This usually helps to increase overall shell velocity, and reduces the effect of drag on the shot, but it also makes the shot less effective against sloped armor.
  
  
• APCBC (Armor Piercing Capped Ballistic Cap): Has greater normalization, penetration over distance and weight than the other shells, but still less penetration up close than AP.
  Sometimes it is explosive (Pzgr 39), getting the title of APHECBC or APCBC-HE. This makes it a superior APHE.
  
  
• APCR (Armor Piercing Composite Rigid): Basically a hard, thin rod with great penetration.
  Sometimes needed for attacking bigger tanks, but it does less damage than regular AP, has a smaller cone of shrapnel and looses speed over distance quicker.
  Also referred to as “subcaliber”, you should use it close quarters, and only when absolutely necessary. This shot has terrible normalization, so if the shot can't penetrate the armor at it's given angle, the shot will almost always bounce.
  
  
• APDS (Armor Piercing Discarding Sabot): Same as APCR but with less speed loss at range, better. Slightly less accurate though since the shot relies on drag to pull off the Sabot (the shell case that makes it fit into the gun).

Explosive-based shells

• HE (High Explosive): It’s a shell with explosive in it. It goes boom. It’s extremely effective against thin armor, but does little to thick plates. Depending on the caliber:
  Less than 75mm-don’t bother shooting HE, unless shooting at very soft targets, such as most types of SPAA.
  More than 75mm-Use against “soft spots” (turret roof, engine bay) to wreck modules from virtually any angle. Does a better job of damaging external modules (tracks, gun) than AP.
  More than 122mm– HE shells will do a lot of damage to any target, and any range (a KV-2 [152mm] will oneshot most tanks)
  
  
• HE-frag (High Explosive Fragmentation): Basically the same as HE, but is loaded with ball bearings in order to damage surroundings even further.
  
  
• HESH (High Explosive Squash Head): HESH is a Base detonating High Explosive filled round with a deforming nose cone. It "splats" up against the Armour, the sudden stop initiates the fuse at the back which detonates the HE filling sending shockwaves through the armor at the point of contact. (As far as I know, In warthunder its just better pen high explosive)
  
  
• HEAT (High Explosive Anti-Tank): Works the same way as an RPG. It pushes an intense stream of molten metal through armor. This means it has constant penetration, regardless of distance. This shell is very hard to aim however, because of it's very light weight in comparison to other shots, and the fact that it must be shot at a lower velocity, otherwise it usually imploded in mid air.
  It doesn't have normalization, meaning you have to hit armor as square on as possible, but itusually has a very large arc, which means you will usually be hitting a tank "downward" when using these shells.
  
  
• HEAT-FS (High Explosive Anti-Tank Fin Stabilized): Works just like a HEAT shell. WW2 Tank barrels had spirals cut into them to give shells a spin to improve accuracy. Modern tanks use smooth barrels so fins were added to HEAT shells to give them the needed spin.
  Much higher velocity then heat shells and basically ignores armour with its extremely high pen.
  Currently found on: M60, M103, M47, Leopard 1, T-10M, T-54 1951, SU-122-54
  
  
• AC (Anti-Concrete): The anti concrete shell was primarily made for the purpose listed on it's label. It was usually used for the destruction of bunkers by engineering teams, in situations in which it was too dangerous for someone to slap a satchel charge or box of TNT. In game, it is functionally a form of AP shell, but with absolutely terrible shell normalization, as well as a very long fuse delay, and rather insensitive fuse (usually needing to pass through 3 inches of material for the fuse to arm). So far, it's only used on the KV-2, and I believe at one point it was avaliable on the SU-152, but it was removed and replaced with it's current variant. The aftereffect of this shot is pretty much equal to detonating a full load HE shot inside the tank.

Note: All explosive-based ammunition gets negated by spaced armor, avoid shooting it at all costs.

Note: The “T” suffix in shell names means it has a tracer. Useful for seeing where your shots go.

Ranging Targets

Separate Guide To Ranging Targets by Loch Tess Monster
This is only useful for Advanced players

Tactics and Maps

There are many different tactics you can use to dominate your foes on the battlefield.
Here are some of the most popular tactics.

• Rushing
  One of the most used tactics out there.
  This tactic is aimed to capture the objective as fast as possible and to hold it for as long as possible. This is a risky tactic as if the rush fails your team have quite a little chance of pushing later in game.
  If pulled off successfully it can often get that early lead needed but near the end as your team loses tanks the enemy may take the objective and win due to them playing safe.
  
• Flanking
  One of the best tactics out there.
  Best suited for medium tanks this tactics can be deadly for enemy heavy tanks and tank destroyers. Flanking is getting yourself into a position where you have a shot on the enemies side or rear while they are distracted with friendlies from another location. Heavy tanks and SPGs often can't react fast enough to flanking attacks or fail to notice them completely until they explode.
  
• Sniping (Camping)
  Many will often flame about campers but this tactic is one of the best for supporting your team.
  Heavy tanks and SPGs don't do well in close quarters due to slow turret rotation, lack of speed and long reload times. Heavy tanks should be the ones to push up after medium/light tanks take a point to hold it and SPGs should stay further behind to help prevent the enemies from reaching the heavies in the first place.
  
• Brawling
  Not the best tactic but one that can catch enemies off guard. Pushing forward in heavy tanks and using your armour to deflect rounds and deal out damage. This only works in large numbers or with medium tank support as when you take critical damage there is no where to hide to repair unlike if you were sniping.

Map Tactics

Certain maps need different tactics, heres a quick rundown of tactics to use on different maps.

Section currently a work in progress, coming soon, (Maybe the 1st? :0)

Helpful Information

Basics of combat

You have a tank. The enemy has a tank. The point is to kill them first. Here are some key principles to have in mind when playing WT

• First strike: if you fire first and get a good hit, you are likely to win the engagement
  
• Knowing where to shoot and with which kind of ammo
  
• Positioning: angling your tank and digging in
  
• Knowing the maps:good positions and routes
  
• Patience: when in doubt, stop and think

As you learn these you will become better in the game.

ALWAYS (Unless you're Russian at later tiers in a heavy tank) Angle your armour into a diamond shape Ex:
Why? Angles force a shell to travel through more armour and help deflect the energy of said shells.


Try and keep your hull down
Tanks often have heavy armour on their turrets, especially american and high tier russian tanks. Example -->
This won't work against Tanks such as the KV-2 as its high explosive shell will just explode downwards. (basically don't let the KV-2 aim at you)

Tips

• SPAA are great for taking out the planes. But so are your tank's machine guns and even the cannon. There are plenty of pilots who think it's a good idea to strife tanks in fighters. Nothing is more satisfying than proving them wrong with a tank shell in the face :-) Just remember - firing will give you away. Especially if you fire stream of tracers into a blue sky.
  
  
• If you came to WT from WoT, you will find that quite a few things are different. The combat is harder and mistakes are less forgiving. Most of the knowledge you got from WoT will be more or less useless.
  
  
• Hull turning
  Nearly everyone does this at some point, either finding it out by accident or by second nature. As your turret (assuming you have one) is connected to your hull turning your hull towards the direction you're turning your turret increases the turrets rate of turn. Simple.
  But the is more.
  Turning your hull also exposes those large flattish sides to kill shots from your flanks, this is bad. So you need to make sure you cannot be flanked (well if you're turning fast anyway most likely you are being flanked at this time but better to only have one flanked exposed instead of two!) to this end turning on the spot is generally a bad idea (what most players do), if possible you want to try to move as well as rotate (normally backwards) this way you're removing yourself from your previous firing position (where normally your angled for best protection from the front) hopefully to a position where you're safe from your previous targets (old 12 o'clock) also by reserving you speed up the rate at which you can turn (assuming your driver does get confused, as sometimes WT does) allowing you to bring your cannon to bear faster, eliminate the threat & return to previous job.
  Conversely as most people do not reverse & turn but turn on the spot it allows you to force them into a win/lose position in which they turn to face you & expose the side to an ally or let you hammer their side.
  
  
• "Flinching" - do not misread this title!
  This is more of a last ditch attempt, as many of you know your mantlet is not as strong as you think it should be. Also people know how to aim well in WT so often your turret is not as strong as you hope, however on later tanks especially the "weak spots" on the front of your turret get progressively smaller. If they still exist (tiger 2's?) you can help throw the aim of your opponent off by twitching (could have used that title, but flinching also works....) normally by this point you have nothing to lose as you're likely reloading & hoping they bounce/miss (if your driver was alive I am sure you would be gtfo of there, but remember not to expose your angles when doing so!)
  
  
• There is a driver's view and even binoculars. Go into controls and click on "tank controls". The key to enter it can be set up there. The same way you can enable binoculars.
  I would advise the "N" Key for binoculars (There very useful in realistic and sim)
  
  
• Every metal has got its own modifier e.g. cast steel is only 90% as strong as rolled homogeneous steel. Why?Damage Mechanics[wiki.warthunder.com]
  
  
• Parts of a tank:
  
  
  
• Exploding ammunition could damage adjacent tanks or low flying aircraft.
  
  
• Reducing the vehicles ammo load, affects the ammo storage by making them smaller and once empty disappear. These cannot be exploded and are literally empty space.

Don't do this in Realistic or Simulator -->
If you do, Have fun getting shot and calling people hackers for seeing you behind bushes

=====Germany=====

Early German tanks are defined by their huge damage potential. As for protection, they have decent front armor but bad side armor--never let the enemy see your side (This should go without saying). When these tanks penetrate your armor you will be destroyed fairly quick, so when facing them make sure you are angled for the best protection. When playing these tanks, try to get close to or on the flank of an enemy tank to make sure your shot will penetrate. Also, try to aim shots carefully, since your reload time is longer than those of tanks of other nations and you might not get a second shot. Early German tanks can be devastating when they are in the right position, picking off enemies in a single magazine/round. However, they are vulnerable to return fire.

German: Heavy Tanks

Infanterie Kampfpanzer Churchill

Exact same as the British Churchill Mk.III with German marks

See Churchill Mk.III in the British tech tree

Tiger H1 | Tiger E

The Famous Tiger 1, Also known as ammorack city
Be aware that the drivers view port and machine gunner ball turret on the front plate is up armoured and should not be shot.
The Tiger H1 and Tiger E are mostly the same except for a few small differences,
The Tiger E has a 30mm track mounted on its lower Glacis, increasing its thickness to 132mm. The Tiger E also has an improved turret traverse gear which is harder to destroy.

• Pros
  
• Thick frontal armor
  
• Great gun capable of defeating all other Tier 3 vehicles
  
• One of the fastest Heavy tanks with its top speed of 45 km/h
  
• Good reverse speed
  
• The Tiger E turret is hard to penetrate, so going "hull down" is usually a good idea in this tank, if at all possible.

• Cons
  
• Ammo racks offer great targets
  
• Slow acceleration and turning speed
  
• Turret traverse is second slowest on Heavy tank line for Germany.
  
• Low maneuverability, susceptible to being outflanked by more quicker adversaries

Pz.Kpfw. KV-1B 756(r)

• Pros
  
• Good cannon
  
• Decent frontal armour
  
• Plenty of ammo
  
• Faster turret rotation speed than other German tanks of its tier

• Cons
  
• Weak side armour and huge fuel tanks
  
• Fairly slow and takes a while to speed up to 15 kph
  
• Looses alot momentum on the slightest turn
  
• If shot in the commander port by guns over 50mm, it'll usually die in one hit
  
• Bad gun depression (-6°)

Tiger II (P)

All Tiger II Variants share a lot of the same Pros/Cons
Hayseed's Helpful Tips for Driving the Tiger II
"A big mistake people make is taking out a full amount of ammo in the Tiger II. Only take about 25 shells in the Tiger II's. If someone hits your turret, it is EXTREMELY likely you will survive it instead of getting your ammo rack blown up because some is stored there."Archibald Fooster

• Pros
  
• Glacis plate is strong enough for most guns at your tier.
  
• 8.8cm KwK 43 is a good gun and relatively accurate over long range due to high muzzle velocity
  
• Turret is highly sloped and can cause some shots to bounce
  
• High penetration values on the main armaments ammuntition, even when stock

• Cons
  
• Turret has a shot trap. Most shells that strike the lower part of the turret front have a good chance to ricochet down into the fighting compartment
  
• It's a heavy tank and slower than most other tanks of its tier
  
• Tank is fairly large and has a hard time hiding behind obstacles
  
• Easily prioritated by planes
  
• Large fuel tanks can cause frequent fires

Tiger II (H)

Hayseed's Helpful Tips for Driving the Tiger II

• Pros
  
• Very accurate and powerful gun
  
• Very good armor on the front
  
• Very good gun depression
  
• Good horizontal traverse
  
• Good reverse rate

• Cons
  
• Being a heavy tank, can be flanked easily.
  
• Very weak sides, ammo can be easily hit if at the sides.
  
• Transmission is right behind the lower glacis plate, making fires a hazard if exposed.
  
• Large gun barrel
  
• Big and heavy tank->some times very slow and can't rotate fast, easily penetrated on the side and the rear, the transmission is in the tank front->easily get destroyed, not good in close combat

10.5cm Tiger II

Hayseed's Helpful Tips for Driving the Tiger II

• Pros
  
• Good armor for mid-long range
  
• Large caliber gun with very good ballistics
  
• Extremely accurate
  
• High penetration Projectiles for all ranges
  
• Much better performance in manual transmission

• Cons
  
• Poorly armored turret at close range for its tier but is difficult to hit if the turret is properly angled.
  
• Gun takes 20 sec to load so is not recommended to fight in urban maps (close range)
  
• Pretty fast but not very maneuverable.

Panzerbefehlswagen VI (P)

Surprisingly, War thunder lets this move without breaking down

• Pros
  
• Strong 200mm frontal armour
  
• Low chance of fire thanks to the rear mounted transmission
  
• Accurate gun for long ranges
  
• Reverse gear is the fastest in game (32kmh)

• Cons
  
• Huge, exposed sides - easily damaged
  
• Low penetration against the vehicles it faces
  
• Mobility and speed is average
  
• Slow turret traverse

Maus

Here is video on how to kill the Maus

• Pros
  
• Most armoured tank of the game
  
• Nigh invincible, if angled properly
  
• Powerful 12,8cm cannon
  
• Invulnerable to 122mm HE
  
• Very resilient to artillery and bombs
  
• Surprisingly good off-road maneuverability

• Cons
  
• Very slow
  
• Vulnerable to 152mm HE
  
• Prime target for Aircraft
  
• Those damm turret cheeks man..

Front
Side

Pz.Kpfw. E-100

The E-100 is Tier V premium German heavy tank at BR 7.7
It could only be acquired in the event "Teutonic Giants" which took place after the 2015 Thunder league
I require screenshots for this tank

• Pros
  
• Heavy frontal armor
  
• Same turret as the maus
  
• 12.8cm gun with 7.5cm coaxial
  
• Faster then the Maus
  
• Has side skirts that block HEATFS shells
  
• The smaller transmission makes it harder to hit
  
  
• Cons
  
• Less armor then the Maus
  
• The side skirts get blown off easily.
  
• If you see this tank, just know that the player had to be in the top 200 to win it.

German: Medium Tanks

Pz.IV G and Pz.IV F2

NOTE: The Pz.IV F2 has 50mm Frontal armour and the Pz.IV G has 80mm

• Pros
  
• Large ammo capacity
  
• High top speed
  
• Very powerful gun, both in short and long range shooting
  
• Extremely high APCR shell velocity (930m/s) makes targeting moving tanks easy
  
• Good gun depression - no need to expose hull when shooting over hills

• Cons
  
• Weak armour, sides and turret are in particular easy to penetrate
  
• Vulnerable in close-range brawling
  
• Poor ammo storage protection, prone to detonation

Pz.IV H and Pz.IV J and Pz.Bfw IV

NOTE: The Pz.IV J does not have Side-Skirts and has 10mm more rear armour, and a hand cranked (really slow) turret, but all other stats are the same as the Pz.IV H
The Pz.Bfw IV has 10mm more rear armour and slightly better spaced armour then the Pz.IV H

• Pros
  
• Good accuracy
  
• Good gun that can still do damage
  
• Side-skirts can soak up HE and HEAT shells
  
• Doesn't pose too much of a threat to higher Ranks, which means that it can be used to flank enemies easier

• Cons
  
• Armour is poor
  
• Poor cross-country performance due to underpowered engine and narrow tracks
  
• General performance is subpar compared to other higher Rank 3 vehicles

Panther D | G | A

The panther's D, G and A are exactly the same except for engine upgrades from what i can see

• Pros
  
• Very fast
  
• High velocity shell ensures less shell-drop
  
• Excellent long-range capabilities

• Cons
  
• Extremely slow reverse
  
• Weak cannon barrel and breech
  
• Vulnerable in the gun mantlet
  
• Weak in the sides and rear

Panther F

• Pros
  
• Very fast
  
• High velocity shell ensures less shell-drop
  
• Excellent long-range capabilities
  
  
• Cons
  
• Extremely slow reverse
  
• Weak Turret for its tier
  
• Loud engine
  
• Weak in the sides and rear

Panther II

The Panther II is a medium tank, as with all medium it gets two respawns and the maneuverability to flank heavy tanks and tank destroyers. Keeping maneuverability in mind, you can outflank heavier vehicles you encounter, such as the IS-4M and ISU-152.

• Pros
  
• It has an even more powerful frontal armour, especially around the gun mantlet.
  
• An upgraded main cannon, identical to the gun of the Tiger II (P&H)
  
• Increased side armour thickness from previous Panther
  
• Reload of the Kwk 43 cannon is quicker by 3 seconds, then its T-54 mod 1951 adversary
  
  
• Cons
  
• Heavier than the previous panther, in fact, its the heaviest medium tank at 47 tons. (Not necesarially a con, the tank can flip enemies if rammed hard enough)
  
• By comparison, the Panther II is larger than the T-54 mod 1951, which could make taking cover more difficult.
  
• Neither the turret upgrade, nor the side armour make the Panther 2 sufficient enough for the opponents it'll see.
  
• Towering experimental night vision gear mounted on top of turret, (which serve no purpose in-game) can make spotting the Panther II easier to spot than other tanks at its tier
  
• Performs extremely poorly when going in reverse. Averaging about 3-4 kph.

Leopard 1AO

The Leopard (or Leopard 1) is a main battle tank designed and produced in West Germany that first entered service in 1965. Developed in an era when HEAT warheads were thought to make conventional heavy armour of limited value, the Leopard focused on firepower in the form of the German-built version of the British L7 105-mm gun, and improved cross-country performance that was unmatched by other designs of the era.

Apart from the ammunition, the main strengths of the Leopard I are its high mobility and the impressive rate of fire of the main cannon. It has the fastest rate of fire of any tank at rank V, not including the Anti-Aircraft vehicles. In combination with a good gun depression of -9° (meaning, you can lower the gun quite extensively), an experienced Leopard I driver can exploit uneven terrain to effectively fight his enemies without showing much of his vehicle - or being in the inconvenient situation to leave his cover to return fire.

• Pros
  
• Fast and very agile
  
• The highest penetration in the T5 medium tanks
  
• Very quick reload time
  
• Access to HESH ammo
  
• Wide gun depression and elevation
  
• Fast turret rotation speed: 24°/sec
  
• Very useful co-axial MG (high fire rate & big belt size)
  
  
• Cons
  
• Insufficient armour (glass cannon)
  
• Ammo rack in the front
  
• Small internal compartment (only 4 crew members)
  
• The HEAT-FS Round has an extremely sensitive fuse and cannot fire through objects such as fences

German: Tank Destroyers

Panzerjäger I

• Pros
  
• Rapid fire gun
  
• Rather agile
  
• Alot of ammo
  
  
• Cons
  
• Alot of ammo
  
• No armor
  
• Is slow
  
• Annoyingly tall

StuG III Ausf. A

(Sturmgeschütz III Ausf. A)
Only HE Shells or HEAT shells should be used due to the low velocity of this gun, which limits the penetration power of AP shells. The caliber of gun is large enough to cause sufficient damage through shock and HE shells have fair potential to kill crew and destroy ammunition rack.

On urban maps use AP (K.Gr.rot Pz.) shells. Round corners with speed, aim and shoot within 1-2 seconds and reverse back around the corner. Try not to expose your sides while doing so.

• Pros
  
• Powerful gun
  
• Well sloped superstructure
  
• Low profile
  
• HEAT options
  
• Good handling and mobility
  
• Good shell loading speed
  
• Good frontal armor
  
  
• Cons
  
• No turret: vulnerable to mobile tanks circling you
  
• Poor maximum speed
  
• Stock ammo has low penetration
  
• Limited fire arc
  
• High shell arc
  
• Many weak spots on sides and below turret
  
• Sides are extremely vulnerable as they are un-sloped and thin

Marder III & Marder III H

The Marder III H is a step above the basic Marder III. It has a better gun close-range wise and has better armor coverage and a fun hull mounted machine gun.

The Marder is more of a sniping tank. The thin armour it has can only protect the open ended crew from machine gun fire, if that. Try to perch yourself in a nice secluded place to prey your targets upon this will be fairly easy to do as this small little tank is very maneuverable! Crowd yourself around rocks if you can and only peek out when you have a clear shot. A single shot can kill your entire crew. Overall it's best to try and play a game of 'Peek-a-boo' with your opponents, however if they get too close, you will most likely get wrecked as the reload time of this tank is too long for close engagements as you can't turn quickly enough to keep your front armor on them, especially with it's limited traverse distance requiring you to turn the whole tank.

• Pros
  
• Good gun penetration
  
• Powerful at all ranges
  
• Very wide side to side gun traverse, You don't have to move your hull much
  
  
• Cons
  
• No turret: vulnerable to mobile tanks circling you
  
• Very prone to falling over, The chance that a friendly can flip you over is very low.
  
• Turning at high speeds will often make your crew taste the dirt(Flip your tank)
  
• Open backed
  
• No sufficient armor
  
• Gunner and Loader are exposed. The armour may protect you from 7.XX mm machine guns but not much above that

StuG III Ausf. F

(Sturmgeschütz III Ausf. F)
The standard APCBC (PzGr 39) ammo is recommended as APCR and HEAT have too much pen and to little damage

• Pros
  
• Powerful and accurate cannon
  
• Low silhouette
  
• Good mobility
  
• Large gun mantlet and sections of highly sloped armor often deflect unaimed shots
  
  
• Cons
  
• Front armor insufficient for slugging matches
  
• Longer reload time
  
• Bad gun depression
  
• Weak deck armor: vulnerable to air-strafing
  
• No turret: vulnerable to mobile tanks circling you

StuG III Ausf. G

The final and most mass-produced variant of the Sturmgeschütz III
By the end of the war, the companies Alkett and MIAG had built 7,834 StuG.40 Ausf. G assault guns.
The overall quality of the armament and armor of this assault gun made it a frequent winner in battles against allied tanks.

• Pros
  
• Powerful and accurate cannon
  
• Upgraded armour is strong enough to make ricochets happen more often
  
• Low silhouette
  
• Good mobility
  
• Large gun mantlet and sections of highly sloped armor often deflect unaimed shots
  
• Sideskirts protect against HE and HEAT rounds. (And Anti-tank rifles :D)
  
  
• Cons
  
• Longer reload time
  
• Bad gun depression
  
• Weak deck armor: vulnerable to air-strafing
  
• No turret: vulnerable to mobile tanks circling you

StuG 42 Ausf. G

(Sturmhaubitze 42 Ausf. G)
StuH 42 G shares the same Battle Rating with StuG III F, but its gameplay is completely different. While StuG is most effective at medium to long range combat, StuH is much more suitable for close to very close range.
The reason is its gun - it is equipped with a large 10.5 cm howitzer. This gun has much lower penetration and shell velocity than that of StuG, but it can cause crippling damage with a single hit. Therefore, to be effective, StuH has to come very close to their opponents, to be able to hit their weakest parts of armor. Fortunately, its own armor is adjusted to this fact, and went up from 50mm to 80mm, which is quite good, and good mobility of StuG/StuH tanks now becomes even more useful.

• Pros
  
• Good frontal armor & low silhouette
  
• Quite resilient to various large HE projectiles - like those from SU-122 or HVSS(105) Sherman, or other StuH 42
  
• Penetrating hit often blows the entire enemy tank up, or at least causes crippling damage
  
• Good mobility
  
• Gun has kind of a "fear factor", enemies often won't risk being hit by your gun and back off from combat
  
• Penetration of APHE ammo goes rapidly up at very close range (can just penetrate KV-1 at point blank range, try to avoid KV-1s)
  
  
• Cons
  
• Very low reload speed - coupled with the necessity to stay close to the combat, often proves fatal
  
• Low penetration - gun struggles with front armor of most tanks it faces
  
• Low accuracy (even at close range) does not make targeting weak spots easy
  
• Low gun depression
  
• Very low shell velocity
  
• If the Loader dies, the vehicle becomes completely ineffective and useless for most of the time
  
• Huge ammo rack on the right side of the tank (and loader behind it) - clever players will often target this area
  
• Limited gun traverse, vulnerable to circling by faster tanks

Pz.Sfl.IVa Dicker Max

• Pros
  
• It has a 10.5cm gun
  
• -15° degrees of gun depression
  
• Quite good reload for its gun size (14 seconds)
  
• Excellent gun penetration
  
• Excellent post penetration damage
  
  
• Cons
  
• The HE rounds are underwhelming for its size
  
• Weak armor
  
• Artillery strikes = Death
  
• Open topped
  
• Limited ammunition
  
• Rather slow top speed

Nashorn

• Pros
  
• KwK 43 8.8cm gun of the Tiger II
  
• Most deadly gun at tier III
  
• Useless armor causes most shells to overmatch
  
• Okay mobility
  
  
• Cons
  
• Armor...
  
• Open top
  
• Artillery strikes = Death

German: Tank Destroyers (Part 2)

Ran out of space :D Steam has a limit of text you can put in each section. #TheMoreYouKnow

Jagdpanzer 38(t) (Hetzer)

Hetzer ("Baiter")
The Jagdpanzer 38(t) Tank Destroyer is affectionately known as the Hetzer. Armed with a 75mm cannon, the Hetzer is quite capable of taking out enemy armor at its tier. Use its speed -- up to 42 km/h -- to take up sniping positions while the enemy is still deploying; then engage them at long range. Use your speed and small size to keep your distance, allowing you to get more mileage out of your thin but heavily sloped armor, and watch out for aircraft and artillery as your weak side armour won't stop them.
(I love the hetzer. Hetzers gonna hetz)

• Pros
  
• Even for its tier, the Hetzer is small, and can use corners and cover that other tanks can't.
  
• At its tier, its main gun is very capable of dealing with any threat.
  
• Sloped armor on all sides, however, the sides and rear is thin.
  
• Equal armor all over the front with extreme sloping, so it has essentially no frontal weak spots.
  
• Hard to hit at range due to its size, and difficult to pen due to its armor angles.
  
• At long range, your sloped armor can even make high caliber shells ricochet.
  
• It's a hetzer. It's fun.
  
  
• Cons
  
• As with all tank destroyers, side and rear armor is thin and any shots can often be fatal.
  
• Not great in close-quarters, this vehicle is more suited for long-range engagements.
  
• With the gun being placed to the right of the vehicle it has a limited traverse range to the left.
  
• The roof armor is fairly thin, which makes you vulnerable to artillery barrages and aircraft.
  
• As with turretless vehicles, you are more vulnerable to being flanked.
  
• As of Patch 1.51.98.8, this vehicle lacks the MG34 machine gun which is aesthetically placed on the roof.(Not necessarily a con)
  
• Floor armor is very thin, and can be penetrated by 105 mm shrapnel.
  
• Driver, Gunner, and Loader are in-line with each other, making it easy to knock out the vehicle with a penetrating shot from the driver's visor.

Jagdpanzer IV/48

This tank destroyer enjoyed great popularity with tank troops, since its gun could knock out virtually any Allied tank of its day.
This anti-tank gun fought with anti-tank divisions on all fronts.

The generally successful vehicle had a number of shortcomings. Its front armor was 60mm thick, resulting in the loss of a number of vehicles. However, increasing the thickness to 80mm shifted the vehicle's center of gravity, overloading the front pair of road wheels, which were prone to fail.

As with every German tank destroyer getting flanked, will usually result in death. The only true way to use this tank to its ultimate advantage is to stay as far away from the battle as possible and stay perched high up

• Pros
  
• Very comfortable to drive thanks to the fair acceleration & top speed
  
• Excellent gun traverse arc to each sides gives the ability to shot while having your tank angled
  
• Low profile, not an easy target at long ranges
  
  
• Cons
  
• Vulnerable sides
  
• Prone to ammo rack detonation

Jagdpanzer IV/70(V)

Vomag AG version
This variant of the anti-tank gun was developed in two different versions by the companies Vomag AG and Alkett. Though similar in combat power and armor protection, these machines were significantly different in appearance

The Jagdpanzer IV/70(V) is a tank destroyer and in order to maximize its effectiveness, it is recommended that it be used from afar and snipe the enemy. Sporting a 75mm gun, it is easily capable of taking out any armor that it may face at its battle rating. With more armor than the previous vehicle, the Jagdpanzer IV, it can take more of a beating from a distance but will not hold up as well at close range. With the addition of spaced armor bolted on both sides of the vehicle, it can negate the effects of High-Explosive shells.

• Pros
  
• Excellent gun
  
• Low profile makes it excellent at using cover and hiding
  
• Sloped armor makes it bounce shells at distance
  
• Spaced armor at both sides negates HE shells
  
• Low Battle Rating for a L/70-armed vehicle
  
  
• Cons
  
• Vulnerable to being flanked
  
• Armor shows weakness at closer ranges
  
• A well placed shot can knock out the vehicle in one hit
  
• Spaced armor can get shot off
  
• The front armour is too heavy, Stopping while travelling at high speeds takes time and to be stable enough to fire takes around 4 seconds

Panzer IV/70(A)

Alkett version
This variant of the anti-tank gun was developed in two different versions by the companies Vomag AG and Alkett. Though similar in combat power and armor protection, these machines were significantly different in appearance

• Pros
  
• Excellent frontal armor, and combined with range, can be near impossible to penetrate.
  
• Good top speed at 40 km\h
  
• Excellent gun that is very capable of dispatching enemies with ease
  
• Added armor near tracks stops HE shells
  
• Low Battle Rating for a L/70-armed vehicle
  
• Powerful, reliable gun that can penetrate the majority of enemy vehicles it will face
  
• Gun's high mounting can allow it to fire over tall obstructions
  
• Mobility, while not exceptional, is adequate
  
• Sloped front offers good protection for this Battle Rating
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor movement when slow
  
• Similar to Ferdinand, it has a flat surface under its gun and not very armored
  
• Tall, blocky silhouette, especially obvious from the side, but presents a large target from all directions
  
• Flat areas on frontal hull don't offer much protection
  
• Sides are large and poorly protected
  
• Lack of a turret makes it very vulnerable to flanking attacks
  
• Only 5 degrees of gun depression, one of the worst in the German tech tree

Jagdpanzer V Jagdpanther

The Befehlswagen Jagdpanther is the command variant that has the same performance.
Except a better radio. Very useful in War thunder.

The Jagdpanther is a German Tank Destroyer based on the [[Panzer V Panther]] Hull made on 1944. A total of 415 vehicles were produced from January 1944 till March 1945. It was armed with the deadly [[8.8cm PaK 43 L/71]] cannon.

The Jagdpanther is best used defensively, to cover capture points and prevent their capture, and cover friendly tank advances. It's highly recommended to hide the lower frontal plate in this tank, as it has a frontal mounted transmission which will set the tank on fire if shot, as well as destroying the transmission. It's also strongly advised to use this tank at long range, and change position often.

• Pros
  
• Good mobility.
  
• Excellent firepower.
  
• Excellent long range sniping abilities.
  
• Low profile
  
  
• Cons
  
• Bad reverse speed.
  
• Average armor for it's rank.
  
• Front mounted transmission. Causes fire when shot through lower frontal plate.
  
• Like most Tank Destroyers, it lacks a turret.

German: Tank Destroyers (Part 3)

Germans have a lot of TD's ok? and steam has a really annoying limit

12.8 cm Selbstfahrlafette auf VK30.01(H) "Sturer Emil"

• Pros
  
• -15° degrees of gun depression
  
• DEADLY 12.8cm gun
  
• Very high penetration
  
• Very high post penetration damage
  
• Low armor causes overmatch
  
  
• Cons
  
• Low armor
  
• Open topped
  
• Limited ammunition
  
• Artillery is deadly
  
• Rather slow

Ferdinand

Panzerjäger Tiger (P) Ferdinand

The main role of the Ferdinand was as a heavy tank destroyer. The Ferdinand was quite good at killing T-34's at ranges up to 3 miles. It is recommended to use this tank at long ranges and behind cover. It is a must to change your position and not loiter around the same area too long

• Pros
  
• Heavily armored front
  
• Excels at long range engagements
  
• Has the unique advantage of having its main gun mounted higher than other tank destroyers, can shoot over obstacles when others can't
  
• Overall great vehicle to get hulled down on and repel enemy attacks
  
  
• Cons
  
• As with most tank destroyers, it is very slow and not very maneuverable, so getting outflanked often proves fatal
  
• No sloped armor
  
• Lower glacis is vulnerable to enemy fire
  
• Flat surface on top of tank underneath the gun, vulnerable if enemy is above you

Jagdtiger

Jagdpanzer VI Jagdtiger

The Jagdpanzer VI Jagdtiger was the heaviest tank destroyer ever produced by Germany during WWII. Development began in 1943 in a response to a request for a vehicle that can support infantry and eliminate armored targets from a variety of ranges. The Jagdtiger ran on a Water-Cooled 12-cylinder Maybach HL 230 P30 engine capable of going at 42 km/h. It was equipped with a 128mm Pak 44 cannon and two MG34 machine guns.

The Jagdtiger is a heavy tanks destroyer, designed to take out targets from a distance. At mid-long range is invincible versus APHE & HESH, only APDS & HEAT can penetrate it frontally. Common enemies are end of the line T-10M and the American M103 both of which can pierce any part of tank armour with ease. Fortunately the pure armour strength limits the shrapnel quantity. Together with pretty long reload, makes it vulnerable in close combat with. Big and slow: A priority target for planes and artillery calls. But if you manage to be top tank you will find yourself in a very good position as on a few Allied tank guns have enough penetration at medium to long ranges.

• Pros
  
• Great pure frontal armour
  
• Excellent Main Gun
  
• Plenty of ammo
  
• Exceptional good roof armour
  
  
• Cons
  
• Big target
  
• Bad speed/maneuverability
  
• Rather low rate of fire
  
• Lower glacis is a weak spot with 100mm at 50°
  
• Side armour can be considered a weak point with 80 mm
  
• Constantly gets in 8.0 matches with post-war tanks.
  
• High-Explosive Fin Stabilized shells (HEAT-FS) can pierce anywhere making your armor useless.

Hanomag-Henschel JPz 4-5

• Pros
  
• High top speed
  
• High reverse speed
  
• Low profile
  
• High rate of fire
  
• -8° Gun depression
  
  
• Cons
  
• Armor is lacking
  
• Its gun isn't all that great

Raketenjagdpanzer 2

Anti-Tank Missile Carrier

• Pros
  
• Uses ATGMs
  
• Very high top speed
  
• Very high reverse speed
  
• Cons
  
• ATGMs have to be controlled by WASD in RB/SB
  
• Lacks armor
  
• No main gun
  
• Low ammunition

German: Light Tanks

Pz.38(t) A and Pz.38(t) F and Pz.35(t)

g"For Pz.38 (t) A I can say that much from my experience: Weak armour, pretty good gun.
And for Pz.38 (t) F: twice as much armour as the previous tank (except for roof), Still a very good gun." 7call7
"Pz.38(t) F, when tiered in its own BR is very hard to kill from the front, especially if angled properly, since it's got 50 mm of armor on the front, this can be quite a lot at medium range, especially against other low caliber guns."Admiral Obvious

• Pros
  
• Very fast and maneuverable
  
• Excellent choice for flanking
  
• 37mm gun is good to deal with most threats
  
  
• Cons
  
• As a light tank, cant take much frontal hits well from heavier and bigger adversaries
  
• 37mm can only do so much, won't penetrate armor of heavier tanks if angled

Pz.II C/F/DAK

• Pros
  
• Good armor on the front
  
• Autocannon provides better damage than most guns of its tier
  
• Fast, very agile
  
• Low Profile
  
• Turret is hard to jam
  
• Often hard to penetrate the mantlet
  
• Dangerous to lightly armored vehicles
  
• Very good at urban-based maps
  
• Loader is often hard to incapacitate from the front
  
• Engine is placed far right of the vehicle
  
  
• Cons
  
• Bad terrible penetration, until the PzGr 40 HVAP-T rounds
  
• No spare crewmembers
  
• Lacking at ranged shootouts

Pz.II H

• Pros
  
• Very fast, only a few other tanks are faster.
  
• Very good turn speed, can circle almost all tanks without the enemy being able to turn their turret in time.
  
• Decent gun at the current battle rating.
  
• Small profile, thus easier to evade shots.
  
• Premium reward bonus.
  
• Cons
  
• Almost no armor. It can make the occasional lucky bouncy, but don't count on it.
  
• Bad gun depression.
  
• Easy to break transmission if you want to knock over trees or fences.
  
• Low amount of ammo.

German: Self-Propelled Anti-Aircraft (SPAA)

Flakpanzer I and Gepard

• Pros
  
• High turret rotation speed
  
• High gun horizontal speed
  
• Great gun depression and elevation
  
• Big magazine
  
• Fast reload
  
• Equipped with a powerful cannon for its tier, easily destroying tanks and aircraft
  
  
• Cons
  
• No armor protection for the gun crew
  
• Vulnerable to explosions
  
• Very little armour for the driver
  
• Low top speed
  
• If any crew member gets knocked out your dead
  
• Vehicle is not ideal for long range tank to tank engagements
  
• Prone to getting pushed over by tanks due to its light weight and small width

Sd.Kfz. 6/2

=====Russia=====

Early USSR tanks are defined by lackluster armor but good gun penetration and good rate of fire. These tanks are easy to penetrate and are destroyed quickly. When playing these tanks try to stay in the second rank or on the flanks. Sniping is also an option with them because the guns fire at relatively high velocities. Remember to seek cover when an enemy starts to shoot at you, as you will not survive many hits. These tanks are powerful weapons in the correct hands, capable of selecting targets of importance and dispatching them in quick order--however, one must be mindful of one's surroundings since the only protection early USSR tanks have is natural cover or distance.

Russian: Heavy Tenks

T-35

• Pros
  
• No less than 3 cannons
  
• Can fire from the rear
  
• High rate of fire
  
• Ammunition Capacity
  
• Large frame which often can absorb more modular/crew damage than most other tenks
  
• It's battle rating makes its Shrapnel shell highly effective
  
  
• Cons
  
• Slow
  
• Poor maneuverability
  
• Largest target currently among the ground forces
  
• Poorly armored
  
• Extremely heavy, poor suspension performance across rough terrain
  
• Can be difficult to hit a target with all 3 guns simultaneously.

SMK

• Pros
  
• Two turrets, two guns. A punchy 45mm and a slow, but steady 76mm
  
• Fine armor
  
• While its heavier than the KV-1, it's mobility is similiar due to more powerful engine
  
• Can defend itself even when one gunner is injured thanks to the two turrets
  
  
• Cons
  
• Gigantic size, very easy target
  
• The additional turret won't really help when being circled
  
• Huge, flat armor on the sides
  
• Somewhat unique playstyle which may need practice

KV-1 L-11

• Pros
  
• Quite decent armor for it's BR.
  
• Fairly good gun.
  
• Supprisingly thick rear armor.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Slow, even while fully upgraded.
  
• The sides of the vehicle are lined in fuel tanks, with ammo stored below them in the middle of the tank.
  
• Terrible accuracy, and penetration at moderate range.

KV-1 ZiS-5

• Pros
  
• Good penetration value with APCR shells;
  
• Good rate of fire, even better than the KV-1;
  
• The frontal armor is improved from the KV-1 and when angled will be a hard nut to crack.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Maneuverability and HP ratio are below average, making you vulnerable during displacements;
  
• You will lose a lot of speed while turning;
  
• Like for the T-34 1942, APCR shells are very expensive, so you must use them wisely or you won't earn money at the end of the battle.
  
• Your sides are your weak point. There's a large fuel tank there and just below that is the ammo. If an round penetrates the armor there it's an instakill.
  
• Notable gaps in the fontal armor where the extra plate of armor isn't welded.

KV-2 (Stalins Fridge Gun)

• Pros
  
• Huge howitzer, dealing high damage with incredible force
  
• Splash damage of the HE shell is enough to kill most tanks
  
• Gun has huge "fear factor", enemies often won't risk being hit by your gun and back off from combat
  
• Acceptable armor
  
  
• Cons
  
• Long reload(45 secs), resulting in difficult 1-on-1 fights since missing gives the enemy a very long opportunity to kill you.
  
• Slow rotation speed of the turret means that flank attacks are difficult to respond to.
  
• Tall turret is very vulnerable and difficult to hide.
  
• If more than 19 rounds loaded ammo racks in the side of the turret means that most penetrating shots to the side of the turret are lethal.
  Newest updates changed ammo layout. Haven't had the chance to test
  
• Incredibly hard to actually hit what you point at.
  
• Targeted by planes often

OF-530 HE
The shell to rule them all. This nasty little bugger weighs 40kg and with 75mm of shrapnel penetration will kill any armoured vehicle in game, if the roof armour or belly armour is struck. However if the shell fails to hit its mark, then most frontal armours will eat the shell. Aiming either at the bottom turret part (hits driver's roof) or under the tank (to hit the soft belly) will bring the most satisfactory results aka one-shots.

KV-85

• Pros
  
• The gun is powerful and will easily one-shot all German medium tanks from the front, even at long distances;
  
• The turret is decently armored, making it suitable for hull-down tactics.
  
  
• Cons
  
• The hull armor is ineffective in tier III battles;
  
• The awful maneuverability can't compensate the lack of hull armor;
  
• The weakspot of the driver's hatch located in the front will make you explode if penetrated.

IS-1

• Pros
  
• Good armor
  
• Fair mobility & high speed
  
• Fast reverse for a heavy tenk (12Km/h)
  
• Gun has access to APCR (unlike the T-34-85(D5-T) that has the same gun)
  
  
• Cons
  
• Turret penetrations are usually fatal, even from the front
  
• Gun may struggle against well armored targets
  
• Gun depression is not very favorable (Curbs will screw you over)

IS-2

• Pros
  
• Great penetration damage
  
• Great gun penetration
  
• Decent maneuverability for a heavy tenk
  
• Decent all around armour
  
• Fast reverse gear
  
  
• Cons
  
• Long reload (27 Secs)
  
• Bad low speed maneuverability
  
• Often targeted by planes
  
• Turret armour is sketchy

IS-2 mod. 1944

• Pros
  
• Incredible damage per shot
  
• Good mobility
  
• Good turret traverse
  
• Good hull armor
  
• Great reverse speed
  
• Packs a 12.7mm Anti-Aircraft gun and a 7.62mm coaxial
  
  
• Cons
  
• Long reload time of 27 sec
  
• Bad general turret armor
  
• Subpar accuracy

IS-3

• Pros
  
• Good front armor
  
• Gun mantlet almost impenetrable
  
• Hull is heavily sloped
  
• Spaced side armour
  
• 360° roof HMG
  
• Decent maneuverability
  
  
• Cons
  
• Long reload
  
• Front hull armour is rather thin
  
• Front hull armour only works when angled properly
  
• Turn on the spot is slow

IS-4M

• Pros
  
• Fast for heavy tenk
  
• Nigh impenetrable from the front
  
• Turret has all round great armour
  
  
• Cons
  
• Low amount of ammunition (only 27)
  
• Long reload
  
• Often a prime aircraft target
  
• People like shooting your gun

T-10M

• Pros
  
• Has the best gun Russia has to offer - very high penetration, modern ammo types
  
• Good frontal protection, especially on the turret
  
• Decent mobility for a heavy tank
  
• Decent rate of fire
  
• Tanks that don't have HEAT-FS rounds cannot reliably pen your front
  
• Vertical stabiliser makes firing accurately on the move possible
  
• The 14.5mm KPVT heavy machine gun has high penetration and can easily track enemies, shoot down planes and penetrate side armour of some tanks
  
  
• Cons
  
• Bad Gun Depression (but better than on IS-4M)
  
• Overall weaker armour than on IS-4M
  
• Angling the tank makes one side of the pike nose *vulnerable* (It's still a pain to penetrate)
  
• Oh look a leopard

Russian: Medium Tenks

T-28 & T-28E

The T-28E has more armour than the T-28

• Pros
  
• Fast for a big medium tank
  
• Versatile
  
• The cannon is accurate
  
• It has the Shrapnel as a standard ammunition, which is effective against light tanks (T-26, Pz.II for example) and SPAA
  
• Strong at its current tier, well armored
  
  
• Cons
  
• Big silhouette
  
• Slow reloading
  
• Too many weak points
  
• Generally thin armor

T-34 1940 & T-34 1941

The T-34 1941 has a slightly better gun than the previous

• Pros
  
• The gun does a lot of damage upon penetration
  
• The short reload time allows you to take advantage in close-quarters engagements
  
• The overall armor is decent, if angled properly
  
• Good maneuverability and speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Even 37mm shells will easily penetrate the driver's view port and do a lot of damage
  
• Bad penetration at medium ranges

T-34 1942 & T-34E STZ

Better gun and turret than its predecessors
The T-34E STZ has better frontal armour but a worse turret.

• Pros
  
• Like it's predecessors it has a good reload time and great maneuverability, making it suitable for short range engagements
  
• APCR shells finally allows you to engage german tanks even at medium-long range
  
• The driver's hatch is up armored and results in 150 mm of line of sight steel
  
  
• Cons
  
• The armor isn't reliable when directly facing an enemy. Angle your tank or take cover to maximize survivability.
  
• The upgraded turret has a thicker but less angled armor and also increases the tank silhouette, allowing German long range tanks to penetrate that area
  
• It has significant difficulties when fighting against enemy mediums on long ranges due to the poor initial ammo selection. Fights at short distances are preferred.

T-34-57

• Pros
  
• The gun has good penetration and rate of fire;
  
• It's fast and nimble, like all the T-34 series;
  
• The turret isn't the one mounted on the T-34 1942, so it offers a smaller silhouette.
  
• It's high penetration APHE ammunition is effective against all Tier II-III Heavies in close range.
  
• Unreasonably fast fire rate for the tier, and gun caliber.
  
  
• Cons
  
• The weak spot on the driver's hatch is problematic;
  
• The armor is useless on tier III battles.

T-34-85(D-5T)

• Pros
  
• Excellent maneuverability
  
• Excellent low speed acceleration
  
• Good reverse speed
  
• First russian medium tank to carry an 85mm cannon
  
• Much better turret armour than its predecessor's
  
• Uses the 1942 hull, resulting in a stronger drivers hatch
  
• Turret traverse is good enough for most ranges
  
• Turret ring module itself is a surprisingly small target
  
  
• Cons
  
• Great and high silhouette
  
• -5° of gun depression as all T-34s
  
• Turret traverse is worse than both the T-34-57 and the T-34-85
  
• Lacks the designated loader of the T-34-85
  
• Hull armour is noticibly bad
  
• Turret ring housing is a big target and can be penetrated easily

T-34-85

• Pros
  
• Fast turret traverse
  
• Fast speed
  
• Excellent upward elevation on gun
  
• Fast rate of fire
  
  
• Cons
  
• Bad hull armour
  
• Below average main gun
  
• Poor angling on the turret(makes bouncing shots tricky)
  
• High profile. Since the turret is so tall.
  
• Takes a while for the tank to stop leaning forward and back once stopped

T-44

• Pros
  
• Excellent maneuverability
  
• Excellent low speed acceleration
  
• Powerful gun
  
• Excellent armor
  
  
• Cons
  
• Weak turret armour (But better then the IS-2)
  
• Any penetrating shot to the turret will result in a one shot due to 3 of the 4 crew being located in the turret
  
  
  

  T-54 mod. 1947

  
  
• Pros
  
• Basically impenetrable from the front.
  
• Powerful 100mm gun.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor gun depression.
  
• Cramped layout, and poor side hull armor.
  
  
  

  T-54 mod. 1949

  
  
• Pros
  
• Basically impenetrable from the front.
  
• Powerful 100mm gun.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor gun depression.
  
• Cramped layout, and poor side hull armor.
  
  

  T-54 mod. 1951

  
  
• Pros
  
• Basically impenetrable from the front.
  
• Powerful 100mm gun.
  
• Has the highest penetration HEAT round in the game at any angle (400mm).
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor gun depression.
  
• Cramped layout, and poor side hull armor.

Russian: Light Tenks

BT-5 & BT-7

The RBT-5 is a BT-7 with two 250kg Tank torpedoes mounted to the turret
Pros

• Good gun penetration
  
• Good rate of fire
  
• One of the fastest tanks in the game, great acceleration and overall mobility
  
• Can run circles around other light tanks
  
• Front armor, although very thin, sometimes bounces shells thanks to the high sloping
  
• Sometimes used in high tier battles as scout/base capper/distraction - spawning does not account to a total of 3 spawns
  
  
• Cons
  
• Pretty much non-existent armor.
  
• Very vulnerable to quick-firing autocannons like Pz.II's or AA vehicle's.
  
• One shot in the nose and you will knock out the crew.

T-26

The T-26E is an up armored version

• Pros
  
• Good penetration even at distance;
  
• Decent reload time;
  
• The ammo rack is difficult to destroy.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Awful maneuverability
  
• Exposed driver, prone to be injured
  
• Thin armor compared to the PzKpfw II Ausf.C.
  
• Tall profile compared to the PzKpfw II Ausf.C.
  
• Very weak roof armor, vulnerable to machinegun fire from airplanes

T-26-4

T-26-4 is rather unusual tank, combining average speed, thin armor and a large gun. It uses the same hull as T-26 and enlarged turret, able to mount the 76 mm KT-28 howitzer.

• Pros
  
• Gun can easily kill any tank it meets with single shot, IF it penetrates
  
• Maneuverability is quite good, although somewhat limited by its low top speed limit (30 kph)
  
• Decent reload speed and fast turret traverse speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Horrible penetration with all types of ammo, even at very close range
  
• Mediocre accuracy, combined with one of the slowest shell travel speed in the game
  
• Very thin armor, can't stop even the autocannon shells from AA vehicles
  
• Very bad gun depression
  
• Very low reverse speed
  
• Has very little chance of causing any harm at all to higher BR tanks.
  
• Most Airplanes can pierce your armor rather easily

T-50

As a light tank it's very agile and it has a very high top speed and HP ratio. It mounts the same gun as the T-26 mod.1939 but compensates the lack of penetration with the APCR shells. It has an excellent armor for a light tank and its inclination makes it more effective, especially if angled properly. Use its agility coupled with the excellent armor to perform flanking maneuvers, destroy enemy tanks and retreat quickly. It is often used in tier 2 battles for its versatility as an aggressive scout tank.

• Pros
  
• Best agility, top speed and HP ratio in its tier and even in tier 2
  
• Decent penetration and good rate of fire
  
• Excellent armor with small weakspots
  
  
• Cons
  
• Without APCR shells the lack of penetration is a bit problematic
  
• 45 mm shells don't cause much damage, often several shots are required to kill the enemy
  
• The high speed makes it easy to damage the tracks, especially the first few times driving this tank
  
• The cannon mantle can be easily penetrated even by starter tanks

T-60

This is a very versatile tank and that is its greatest strength. its greatest weakness is its horrible all around armor, always remember that you will probably not survive a single hit from an AT gun, and as such stay hidden and behind cover. In order to accomplish this use this tanks great maneuverability to your advantage and try to hug cover and move in depressions of the landscape. When using this tank always attack from an unexpected angle then shot your entire belt and afterwards always re-position after an attack. A great strength of this tank is that at any point it can go from flanking an enemy tank to acting as a front line SPAA, and in many games this amazing ability that can save you and your comrades from certain death at the hands of a enemy bomber or attack plane.

• Pros
  
• Fast-firing gun, that can even harm aircraft due to caliber and rate of fire
  
• Good maneuverability
  
• Belts have a high ammunition count per belt
  
• Can act as a decent front line SPAA
  
• Low profile
  
• Often not a high priority target
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor armor
  
• Very cramped interior
  
• Only 2 crew so you can't lose anyone
  
• Long reload time
  
• Very slow at climbing hills
  
• Retains speed bad
  
• Poor penetration values

T-70

• Pros
  
• Good frontal armor
  
• Relatively good gun with high penetration
  
• Good machine gun
  
  
• Cons
  
• Only two crew members
  
• Slow reloading
  
• Very vulnerable from sides

T-80

• Pros
  
• Fastest reload speed in the game for a non-automated cannon
  
• Small target
  
• Co-axial MG suitable against unarmoured vehicles
  
• Capability to shoot APCR rounds
  
• Frontal turret and hull armour is surprisingly good, and can easily bounce shots from same Br opponents
  
• First soviet light tank to feature more than two crew, meaning you can now afford to lose a crew member
  
• Awesome vertical traverse limit of 65 degrees, allows for some anti air potential, though it is unreliable in this role
  
  
• Cons
  
• Very slow traverse speed for turret (hand cranked)
  
• Slow gun elevation speed
  
• Front shot trap, although decently protected, is a serious weak point
  
• Low calibre gun
  
• Easily damaged by careless driving

T-126

Quite a rare little tank this is. Basically a prototype T-34

• Pros
  
• Good off road mobility thanks to wide and massive tracks
  
• Steady and easy to control, unlike the T-50
  
• Bulky tracks are durable and resistant to damage from both fire and improper driving
  
• Relatively thick sloped frontal armor can deflect most of the lower rank enemy fire
  
• Sloped armor on all sides can help when angled properly
  
• Ability to use APCR shells and boost the penetration abilities of otherwise obsolete gun
  
• Accurate and fast reloading stinging gun
  
• Small size and height makes the tank smaller target
  
• Cons
  
• Below average maximum speed of only 35 km/h due to high mass and insufficient engine power
  
• Gun might seem obsolete and unable of dealing serious damage
  
• Very cramped interior - crew and equipment are very often knocked out by one well placed shot
  
• Weak turret armor compared to the hull - turret is an easy target
  
• Turret slope angle is rather low and does not effectively deflect enemy fire
  
• Very weak mantlet with poor sloping can be easily penetrated even by lower rank tanks
  
• Armor despite being sloped can be easily penetrated by modern tanks like Sherman or Panzer IV

PT-76

The first amphibious tank to be implemented

• Pros
  
• Okay maneuverability
  
• Quick rate of fire
  
• Ability to drive in water
  
• Access to HEAT-FS shells with excellent penetration
  
  
• Cons
  
• Poor armor, can even be penetrated by 12.7mm machine guns
  
• Doesn't deal much damage, especially not with the default ammo
  
• Your gun has to elevate to traverse over the external fuel tanks
  
• Cannot reverse in water, which may cause you to get stuck (can use the recoil of the main gun to free itself.)
  
• Water travel is quite slow at 10 km/h
  
• Poor reverse rate

Russian: Tenk Destroyers

SU-57

(Samokhodnaya ustanovka 57 - Self-propelled gun 57)
The SU-57 was Soviet used, lend-lease American made T48 GMC on the chassis of standard US M3 Half Track armored carrier. 650 vehicles were supplied to the USSR from Great Britain.

• Pros
  
• Accurate and powerful gun capable of penetration even on vast distances.
  
• Can destroy basically everything it encounters very easily.
  
• Great mobility and speed of the halftrack vehicle compared to tanks.
  
• Ability to snipe from distance and relocate quickly if needed.
  
• Enemy shells often fly through its thin armor without dealing any serious damage.
  
• Crew has better protection compared to the American 75mm M3 GMC.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Lack of armor protection - vulnerable even to machine gun fire.
  
• Vulnerable to shrapnels and artillery shelling due to its open top.
  
• Rather limited gun arc.
  
• Cannot turn without moving forwards/backwards

ZIS-30

• Pros
  
• Excellent gun with good penetration
  
• Very high velocity rounds
  
• Sufficient agility and top speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Paper armor, MGs are extremely dangerous
  
• Low HP makes hill climbing difficult
  
• Prone to flipping
  
• Crew is exposed
  
• Needs time to stabilize the cannon for accurate shooting
  
• Low ammo capacity - carries 20 shells.

SU-76M

• Pros
  
• Great gun for its BR
  
• The shells explosive filler is quite good
  
• Armor will cause explosive based shells to overmatch
  
  
• Cons
  
• Very slow
  
• Has very thin armor
  
• Crew is exposed to MG fire from behind and above
  
• The chance of someone missing a vital module is low due to cramped layout

SU-122

• Pros
  
• 122mm cannon
  
• HE shell can destroy most ground vehicles it faces with a shot to the front of the turret
  
• Armor isn't bad. But not exactly great either.
  
• T34 speed
  
• Gun mantle is quite thick and will bounce most shots that hit it.
  
• Low size
  
  
• Cons
  
• At the higher part of its BR range, the armor won't help
  
• Prone to getting one-shot with large ammo racks and confined crew quarters
  
• Long reload time, The HE shells are kind of hit and miss at times
  
• Horrible gun depression
  
• High gun arc, makes long range shots difficult

SU-85

The SU-85M is an up-armored version of the normal SU-85. I still wouldn't count on it to bounce anything reliably

• Pros
  
• Good gun
  
• Good mobility
  
• Low profile
  
  
• Cons
• Armour won't stop Panther and Tiger tanks
  
• Lack of high pen ammo
  
• Cramped design
  
• Kind of slow reloading

SU-152

• Pros
  
• Powerful HE shells
  
• Impressive armor piercing damage
  
• Okay armor for its BR
  
  
• Cons
  
• Sluggish at low speeds
  
• Armour is mostly flat
  
• It can easily be disabled from distance by faster firing, more accurate German and american TD's
  
• It doesn't have the "Fear Factor" that tanks like the KV-2, even though it has a better gun

SU-100Y

• Pros
  
• Very good gun
  
• Large crew and crew compartment
  
• Armor is surprisingly good for its BR
  
• Has a "Fear Factor"
  
  
• Cons
  
• Huge
  
• Armour is still flat around the gun
  
• Gun breach breaks often
  
• It has terrible maneuverability

ISU-122 & ISU-122S

The ISU-122S has a slightly faster firing version of the 122mm

• Pros
  
• Good gun with excellent damage potential and penetration
  
• Fast reverse speed, can reach 10MPH in reverse
  
• Surprisingly capable of bouncing and stopping some shells
  
• Transmission in rear
  
  
• Cons
  
• Terrible track traverse
  
• Long reloads
  
• Poor mobility
  
• Depressing gun depression

ISU-152

• Pros
  
• Powerful HEAT ammo with good HE blast
  
  
• Cons
  
• Armour cannot stand up against high tier cannons
  
• Small crew compartment
  
• Armour not angled
  
• Rather sluggish

SU-100

• Pros
  
• Stock shells have high penetration and explosive filler
  
• Can easily one shot many tanks
  
• Great top speed and manoeuvrability (56km/h)
  
• Cons
  
• Weak armour
  
• Can be easily taken out in one shot
  
• 4 crew members
  
• Not the fastest reload speed, but not bad either

SU-122P

A prototype based on the SU-100

• Pros
  
• Powerful cannon
  
• Great post penetration damage
  
• Cons
  
• Armour Is useless
  
• Cramped crew layout
  
• Not a stable firing platform
  
• Horrible mobility and traverse rate

SU-122-54

Honestly would not recommend using it, but this is my opinion

• Pros
  
• Fast
  
• Has a 14.5mm anti aircraft gun
  
• Great mobility
  
• Effective cannon
  
• Somewhat sloped frontal armor can bounce incoming shells
  
• Cons
  
• 3BK-10 (HEAT-FS) is unlocked in Tier 4 modifications
  
• Armor is generally weak
  
• Bad gun depression

IT-1

The IT-1 is a Tier V Soviet medium tank with a battle rating of 8.0. It was introduced in Update 1.59 "Flaming Arrows" and was one of the first ATGM-equipped vehicles to be in the game. The IT-1 is only equipped with the 3M7 anti-tank missile capable of penetrating 500 mm. The lack of armament makes the tank vulnerable to close engagements, so caution must be taken while playing this vehicle

• Pros
  
• Anti-tank missile equipped
  
• Good armor of a T-62
  
• Cons
  
• No other armaments for close defense
  
• 14 missiles only

Russian: Self-Propelled Anti-Aircraft (SPAA)

===Great Britain===

WORK IN PROGRESS

British: Heavy Tanks

A1E1 Independent

• Pros
  
• 47 mm gun is adequate at the BR.
  
• Large ammo reserve
  
• Large crew of 8 makes it difficult to destroy
  
  
• Cons
  
• Very long tank, hard to hide side from flankers
  
• Only one ammo type

Matilda II

• Pros
  
• Accurate and high velocity gun.
  
• Armor is alright in BR 2.0-3.0 battles.
  
• Good gun depression. (-15/10).
  
• Nice turret rotation speed.
  
  
• Cons
  
• It really, really is slow.
  
• Gun lacks stopping power at tier II and BR 3.0
  
• Bad battlerating, gets absolutely slaughtered by contemporary tier II tanks.
  
• Armor is easily penetrated by tier II guns, despite being a heavy tanks.

Churchill Mk.III

• Pros
  
• Great armor at 4.0.
  
• High velocity, hard hitting 57mm cannon.
  
• Good gun depression. (-12/20).
  
• Nice turret rotation speed.
  
  
• Cons
  
• It is a really slow tank.
  
• Easily flanked.
  
• Rather huge silhouette.
  
• Very dependent on team.

Skin Link Churchill Mk.III "Betty"[live.warthunder.com]

Churchill Mk.VII

• Pros
  
• Even better armor than the Mk. III.
  
• Hard hitting 75mm rounds.
  
• Good reload speed.
  
• Same gun depression and reload speed as Mk. III.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Much slower than the Mk. III.
  
• Lower penetrating 75mm rounds.
  
• Same cons as the Mk. III.

FV 221 Caernarvon

• Pros
  
• Great, accurate 84mm gun.
  
• Good sloped armor.
  
• Good overall speed and maneuverability.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Only two munition types, APDS and APCBC.
  
• APDS nerfed hard.
  
• Can easily get one shotted if turret is hit hard.
  
• Sloped armor has a weakspot, the driver's optics.
  
• Will face post-war tanks with better performance.

A.43 Black Prince

• Pros
  
• Great, accurate 17-pounder gun.
  
• One of the best armored tanks at its tier.
  
• Can fire accurately on the move due to slow traverse speed.
  
• Is a premium tank with premium bonusses.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Horrible traverse and reverse speed, slower than the Maus.
  
• Will face 6.7 tanks with better performance.
  
• Very slow.
  
• Side armor is rather thin.
  
• Slow turret traverse speed.

Conqueror Mk.2

• Pros
  
• Great, accurate and devastating 120mm cannon.
  
• The 120mm APDS round can one shot everything at almost every angle.
  
• Good sloped armor.
  
• Good overall speed and maneuverability.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Rather slow reload speed compared to other tier V tanks.
  
• Outperformed by the Chieftain Mk.3.
  
• Will face HEATFS rounds without access to HEATFS.

British: Medium Tanks

Valentine Mk.I

• Pros
  
• Good 40mm gun for its tier.
  
• Best British armored vehicl
  
• Has multiple spots with sloped armor.
  
• Good gun elevation (-15/20).
  
  
• Cons
  
• Horrible traverse and reverse speed.
  
• Still has a big flat piece of frontal armor.
  
• Gun not competitive enough when playing BR 3.3 battles.
  
• Cramped crew layout

Cromwell V

• Pros
  
• Excellent traverse speed.
  
• Good 75mm gun.
  
• Good gun elevation (-12/20).
  
  
• Cons
  
• Flat and rather thin armor.
  
• Bad reverse speed.
  
• Shells have no explosive filler.
  
• Low shell velocity.

Cromwell I

• Pros
  
• Better speed than its predecessor.
  
• The amazing 57mm gun which can penetrate a T-34 frontally.
  
• Good gun elevation (-12/20).
  
• Good reload rate.
  
• Good shell velocity.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Flat and rather thin armor.
  
• Bad reverse speed.
  
• Shells have no explosive filler.

Valentine Mk.XI

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Valentine Mk.IX

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Sherman VC Firefly

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Sherman IC 2nd «Warsaw» Armoured Division

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

A34 Comet I

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Challenger

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
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• 
  

Centurion Mk.1

FV4202

Centurion Mk.3 & Stridsvagn 81 (Strv 81)

The Strv 81 is a normal Centurion with three ATGMs strapped to the side of the turret

• Pros
  
• Powerful and high penetrating gun
  
• Very quick reload time
  
• Wide gun depression and elevation
  
• Rather difficult to pen turret
  
• Good reverse speed
  
• Cons
  
• Mediocre speed and acceleration
  
• Ammo rack in the front
  
• No explosive filler on any AP shells
  
• Weak side armour

Centurion Mk.10

• Pros
  
• Very powerful and high penetrating gun
  
• Immediate access to APDS and HESH shots
  
• Very quick reload time
  
• Wide gun depression and elevation
  
• Good reverse speed
  
• Cons
  
• Weakly armoured
  
• Mediocre speed and acceleration
  
• Ammo rack in the front
  
• Small internal compartment (only 4 crew members), easy to one shot
  
• Low accuracy

Chieftain Mk.3

• Pros
  
• Very good turret
  
• Can bounce APDS and also HEATFS with the turret
  
• Front hull armour is sloped very sharply
  
• Excellent reload time for a 120 mm
  
• Access to 400mm penetrating APDS shells and HESH shells immediately
  
• 10 degrees of gun depression
  
• Has access to a dual plane stabiliser
  
• Unlike other British tanks, it has a respectable reverse speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Weak hull armor overall
  
• Lower frontal plate is very poorly armoured, and has an ammo rack behind it
  
• Very weak side and rear armor
  
• Ammo rack everywhere
  
• Small ammo variety (APDS or HESH only)

British: Light Tanks

A13 Mk.I and A13 Mk.I 3rd Royal Tank Regiment

NOTE: The A13 Mk.I 3rd Royal Tank Regiment is a premium tank.

• Pros
  
• Great and accurate gun with good penetration at all distances.
  
• Good traverse speed, great acceleration and overall mobility.
  
• Along with others British tier I tanks, best gun elevation at its tier (-15/20).
  
• Good rate of fire.
  
• Rounds have a high velocity.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Flat and thin armor all round the tank.
  
• Mediocre reverse speed.
  
• Cramped crew layout, thus prone to getting oneshot.
  
• No rounds with explosive filler, most of the time multiple rounds needed to destroy tanks.

A13 Mk.II and A13 Mk.II 1939

NOTE: The A13 Mk.II 1939 is a premium tank and has 10mm more frontal armor.

• Pros
  
• More turret armor than the A13 Mk.I.
  
• Great and accurate gun.
  
• High velocity rounds great for taking on airplanes.
  
• The extra turret side armor is spaced armor, better protections against HEAT and HE shells.
  
• Cons
  
• Despite being uparmored, still flat frontal armor.
  
• Less horsepower and speed than the Mk.I.
  
• Still prone to getting oneshot.
  
• Rounds still lack explosive filler.

Tetrarch Mk.I

• Pros
  
• Fastest tier I light tank.
  
• Shares the same great gun as the A13.
  
• Amazing gun elevation (-15/25).
  
• Well angled upper glacis.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Cramped crew layout, getting oneshot will happen a lot.
  
• Mediocre reverse speed.
  
• Worst turret rotation speed of British tier I vehicles.
  
• Armor is non-existent.

Crusader Mk.II

• Pros
  
• Share the same 40mm gun as previous tanks.
  
• Good HEAT and HE protection due to spaced armor.
  
• Well angled upper glacis and turret side armor.
  
• Good turret rotation speed.
  
• Good cruising speed despite the armor.
  
• Similiar gun elevation as other British tier I tanks(-12/20).
  
• Has a unusable MG turret which acts as extra frontal armor.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Flat and thin frontal armor.
  
• Mediocre reverse speed.
  
• Has the 40mm gun deficiencies.

Crusader Mk.III

• Pros
  
• One of the best guns at its tier, the 57mm.
  
• Despite being upgunned, still excellent cruising speed.
  
• It can frontally pen a T-34 tank.
  
• Same turret armor as the Mk.II.
  
• Retains same (-12/20) gun elevation.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Lacks the MG turret which acts as extra frontal armor.
  
• Longer reload than contemporary guns.
  
• 57mm shells lack explosive filler.
  
• flat and thin armor on the tank chassis.

British: Tank Destroyers

3 inch Gun Carrier

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

SP 17pdr, Valentine, Mk I, Archer

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

17pdr. M10 Achilles

• Pros
  
• One of the best guns at its tier.
  
• Good mobility, equal to that of a Sherman.
  
• Generous ammo capacity.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Horrendous turret traverse, worse in the game.
  
• Open turret, thus easily strafed by any plane type.
  
• Bad armor, comparable to contemporary tank destroyers.

17pdr. M10 65th Anti-Tank Regt.

• Pros
  
• One of the best guns at its tier.
  
• Good mobility, equal to that of a Sherman.
  
• Generous ammo capacity.
  
• Premium experience and silver lion gain.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Horrendous turret traverse, worse in the game.
  
• Open turret, thus easily strafed by any plane type.
  
• Bad armor, comparable to contemporary tank destroyers.

SP Avenger

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Charioteer Mk.VII

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Tortoise

• Pros
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
  
• Cons
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

British: Self-Propelled Anti-Aircraft (SPAA)

T17E2

• Pros
  
• Fastest ground vehicle in the game.
  
• Good traverse and reverse speed.
  
• Surprisingly good .50 machine guns.
  
• High turret rotation speed.
  
• Good gun elevation (-10/75).
  
• Plenty of ammo and big magazines.
  
• Due to the thin armor, people will overpen you a lot.
  
  
• Cons
  
• No armor
  
• Prone dying to ramming due to low weight
  
• Cramped crew layout, frontal oneshots possible
  
• Open turret.
  
• Contemporary SPAA have bigger caliber guns.

=====America=====

Early American tanks are a good mixture of mobility and protection. These are the tanks that you will have the hardest time penetrating, especially from the front. This level of protection combined with great mobility makes them a powerful nation when used correctly. The best way to use these tanks is in front line combat and flanking. The ability to quickly move from the front line to the flanks of larger tanks makes early American tanks highly versatile; however, they seem to lack the necessary damage to finish enemies off before having to re-position.

"American tanks are normally taller than russian and german tanks, this can be a disadvantage and advantage at the same time" Steve from customer service

America: Heavy Tanks

M6A1

• Pros
  
• Great main gun
  
• Very fast reload times
  
• Very good gun depression
  
• Good power-to-weight ratio
  
• Good acceleration
  
• Good climb abilities
  
• Secondary gun has the same shell arc as main gun
  
• Big hull increases survivability after a penetrating hit
  
  
• Cons
  
• Slow topspeed
  
• Mediocre turnspeed
  
• Weak cheeks with only ~40mm of armour
  
• Ammo is stored in the weak cheeks!
  
• Drivers and mg-port are frontal weakspots
  
• Tank cannot be angled as it exposes the cheeks

Assault Tank M4A3E2 "Jumbo"

• Pros
  
• Excellent frontal armour
  
• Excellent all around turret armour
  
• Good acceleration
  
• High rate of fire for main gun
  
  
• Cons
  
• Machine gunners port is a big weak spot, Try to hide it (or shoot here)
  
• Weak rear chassis armour (38.1mm)
  
• M3 cannon lacks penetration against heavy tanks
  
• Bad off-road maneuverability
  
• Low top speed of 35 kph
  
• Low reverse speed of 4km.

Assault Tank M4A3E2 (76) W Jumbo

"A glorious beast of battle at its own BR, due to the ridiculously thick front armor (don't be fooled by the in-game armor view - there's a separate 38mm armor plate attached to and obscuring the 64mm front upper hull) and the penetration of its 76mm cannon. The turret also has some of the thickest armor of its tier, with 152.4mm overall as well as a 177mm gun mantlet), making this a great tank for hunkering down on a point and defending it. Just watch out for being attacked from the sides, which only have ~75mm armor and no sloping. Good to know: the Tiger 1 cannot penetrate this tank's front armor at distances of more than 400 meters.(Even at point blank it will have difficulty when you are angled)" ~Sandwich

• Pros
  
• Decent 76mm high velocity gun, with good accuracy and low shell drop.
  
• Good variety of ammunition, including HE filled AP shells for high internal damage and APCR rounds for extreme penetration power.
  
• Thick frontal gun mantlet capable of withstanding almost all tank guns in its tier.
  
• Ammo racks are situated in the bottom of the tank and are hard to hit.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Relatively thin side armor that can be penetrated by most other tanks at its tier, even at high deflection angles.
  
• Low maneuverability, especially on rough terrain.
  
• Low reverse speed of 4km.

T32

• Pros
  
• Excellent frontal turret armour can deflect nearly every shell in the game
  
• Accurate high velocity cannon
  
• Armour well angled from the front
  
• Faster than other heavy tanks of its tier
  
  
• Cons
  
• Hull armour is weak due to large machine gun housing
  
• Lower glacius is easily penetrated by Kwk 43 / Pak 43 (Late german 88mm) and the equal BR gun of the jagdtiger (128mm)
  
• Long reload time (Although faster than some other heavy tanks)

M103

• Pros
  
• Highest penetrating gun ingame
  
• Excellent penetration on all ranges
  
• ♪"Do you wanna kill a Maus-tank?"♫
  (Can deal with the maus with ease)
  
• Decent post penetration effects for AP
  
  
• Cons
  
• Armour downgrade from T32
  
• Turret shot trap
  
• Weak turret sides
  
• Turret armour is more about hoping they don't aim for the center

America: Medium Tanks

M2

• Pros
  
• Good front armor
  
• Fast and Agile
  
• Reliable gun with good rate of fire
  
• Good penetration
  
  
• Cons
  
• Tank is cramped
  
• Braking System unresponsive
  
• Backwards Traverse is slow
  
• Turning can be hit or miss
  
• No ammunition with HE filler

M3 Lee & Grant I

The grant has a modified 37mm turret and the turreted machine gun was removed
Also is a british modification, so first british tank in the game...?

• Pros
  
• Ability to use two guns: a 37mm and a 75mm - which is very powerful at this tier
  
• Fine frontal armor
  
• Side mounted 75mm gives the ability for some unique tactics
  
• Despite the tall profile, the "wedding cake" design of the turret has thick sloped armour, providing extra protection to make up for it's height.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Tall profile, big target
  
• Side mounted gun - as much it is advantage, it is disadvantage too
  
• Slow traverse speeds make it easy for a light or a particularly speedy medium tank to sneak around the sides.

M4A1 Sherman

• Pros
  
• Good gun, with adequate damage (especially with upgraded shells) and decent rate of fire;
  
• Decent armor and good survivability;
  
• Decent agility and turret traverse speed;
  
• Thick gun mantlet and good gun depression makes it suitable for hull-down tactics;
  
  
• Cons
  
• Low top speed compared to other nation's tanks;
  
• The odd shaped hull makes sidescrape tactics ineffective or even harmful;
  
• The engine spends most of its time on fire.
  
• Very weak to artillery due to a measly armour above the tracks.

M4 Sherman & T34 Calliope

The T34 Calliope is exactly the same to a normal sherman.. except it has 60 rockets mounted above the turret.

In battle the M4 performs well as an all-rounder; the thick turret front and 10 degrees of gun depression make the tank ideal for taking hull-down positions which protect the thinner hull armor from being penetrated by enemy fire. Overall, the M4 Sherman can be considered as an armored jack-of-all trades - it will serve a tanker well, however it will not excel in any particular role.

• Pros
  
• The main gun can do very well in the tier 2 matches. The only tank that with be a problem is the kv-1 zis-5 this is due to the 75mm lack of armor penetration.
  
• Speed is life, and This will allow one to out maneuver slower opponents
  
  
• Cons
  
• Located at the top of the main body of the tank there are two weak spots:
  Fuel Tanks (Top right and left of the rear section of the Hull)
  Ammo storage (Top right and left of the Front part of the Hull)
  
• Very weak to artillery due to a measly 10mm of armour above the tracks.

M4A2 Sherman

• Pros
  
• Quite fast compared to the tanks it faces
  
• Has more armour than previous Shermans
  
• Cons
  
• Armour is subpar for what it faces
  
• gun lacks stopping power
  
• Still weak to artillery

M4A3 (105) HVSS Sherman

• Pros
  
• Devastating against lightly armored tanks
  
• Can make serious damage even in a non-penetrating hit (with HE shell)
  
• HEAT shell option
  
• OK mobility
  
• Coaxial and crew MGs
  
  
• Cons
  
• Inaccurate at long ranges
  
• Prone to crew damage
  
• HE ineffective against heavily armored tanks
  
• Prone to fires
  
• Often targeted due to the signature gun
  
• Weak armor compared to German and Russian counterparts

M4A1 (76) Sherman | M4A2 (76) Sherman | M4A3 (76) Sherman

• Pros
  
• Good rate of fire for the main gun
  
• Has 10 degrees of depression for the main gun
  
• Angled frontal slope which may sometimes bounce larger calibers if angled correctly
  
• A standard 5 crew members, which equates to 2 spare crew members to take over positions of the tank if necessary
  
• All the ammunition is stored below the turret
  
• A pintle-mounted heavy machine gun (12.7 mm), which can be used for anti-aircraft purposes
  
• Gun mantlet is fairly thick
  
• Turret has a nice armor layout
  
• Fast horizontal turret traverse
  
• Has a vertical stabilizer
  
  
• Cons
  
• Is quite tall
  
• Sides and rear are thinly armored
  
• Engine compartment is poorly armored
  
• Susceptible to nearby artillery explosions
  
• Really can't take many hits from tanks around its BR level

M26

The M26E1 "Super Pershing" is stat wise the same except for its much higher gun penetration.
Not to be mistaken with the T26E1-1 "Super Pershing"

• Pros
  
• Low profile.
  
• Nice handling.
  
• can usually maintain 25km/h off-road and on
  
• Reliable & Powerful 90mm Gun
  
• Versatile tank role, (support, flanker, ambusher, etc.)
  
• Effective ammo.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Turret ring can be easily damaged.
  
• Not too well armoured for its tier.
  
• Not too fast.
  
• Long reload.
  
• Slow for most mediums of it's BR/tier
  
• Bad stock gun penetration (But gets a lot better when you research new ammo types)

T26E1-1 "Super Pershing"

• Pros
  
• Powerful Gun with M82
  
• Decent(ish) armor
  
• .50 anti-aircraft machine gun
  
• Cons
  
• The armor may be better, but a well aimed shot will wipe it
  
• The rather sluggish M26, is now a lot worse due to the add on armor
  
• Gun takes a while to stabilize to fire after stopping

M46 Patton

• Pros
  
• Powerful 90mm Main Cannon
  
• Decent Speed/Agility
  
• Decent Frontal Armor and Gun Mantlet
  
• Rear Mounted Transmission
  
• Excellent Gun Depression of -10 degs.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Turret Ring is Prone to Breaking
  
• Armor can easily be pierced by other tanks at it's tier
  
• No Machine Gun to Combat Aircraft.

M47 Patton II

The M47 Patton II medium tank, released in the US beginning in June 1951 by the Detroit Tank Arsenal and the American Locomotive Co., was a modernized version of the M46 Patton

• Pros
  
• Powerful 90mm Main Cannon
  
• Decent Speed/Agility
  
• Decent Frontal Armor and Gun Mantlet
  
• Rear Mounted Transmission
  
• Excellent Gun Depression of -10 degs.
  
  
• Cons
  
• Turret Ring is Prone to Breaking
  
• Its battle rating makes its armour weak due to HEAT-FS rounds.

105 mm Gun Tank M60 & M60A1

The M60A1 Is an up armored version
Overall, the M60 is a great tank, with a stock off-road speed of 35 km/h (22 MPH). It is able to execute sharp turns at speed. It can readily outmaneuver other armour, thus allowing you to change your direction very quickly. The M65 cannon is a fairly accurate gun even while on the move and can cause a lot of damage, if not destroy, an enemy tank in one shot. The M60 has overall great turret armour, however there are weak spots, most notably, the commander's cupola and the rear of the turret itself.

• Pros
  
• Powerful gun
  
• Good choice of ammunition
  
• Excellent turning capability
  
• Very good stock turret transverse speed
  
• Great off road speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Commander cupola Armour is very thin, could be penetrated easily
  
• Sides are only 68mm thick, they can be penetrated easily
  
• Commander .50 calibre, is slower in maneuverability compared to previous U.S. tanks.
  
• .50 calibre, is limited in maneuverability compared to previous U.S. tanks.

America: Light Tanks

LVT(A)(1)

• Pros
  
• First US navy ship(Its amphibious)
  
• Has rapid fire gun
  
• Extremely agile for its size
  
• Large size and extra crew members make it very survivable
  
• Decent gun depression at front/sides
  
• Two rear machine gunners can be effective anti-aircraft
  
• Cons
  
• Giant shell magnet due to its size
  
• No armor really
  
• Its rather tall, this can be useful though
  
• Bad rear gun depression

M2A4

• Pros
  
• Fast and agile
  
• Acceptable gun
  
• Fair armor all around
  
  
• Cons
  
• Uneasy handling, prone to slide at high speeds
  
• Quite flammable, even when hit from the front
  
• No HE filler rounds
  
• Gun is higly inaccurate without any modifications

M3 Stuart and M3A1

• Pros
  
• good front armor
  
• Fast and Agile
  
• Reliable gun with good rate of fire
  
  
• Cons
  
• Tank is cramped
  
• Braking System unresponsive
  
• Backwards Traverse is slow
  
• Turning can be hit or miss
  
• No ammunition with HE filler

M5A1

• Pros
  
• High top speed, good acceleration
  
• Better handling than it's predecessors
  
• Armour is mediocre but is good at its tier
  
• Good rate of fire
  
• Gun can penetrate most tanks of this tier
  
• Fast turning speeds
  
• Can turn rotate fast while not in motion
  
• Accelerates fast on flat terrain
  
  
• Cons
  
• Exposed fuel tank and engine
  
• Prone to fires
  
• As with the American 37 mm cannons, AP shots have no HE filler
  
• AP Shots often fail to fragment when penetrating other vehicles

M22 Locust

• Pros
  
• Enormous power/weight ratio, allowing fast acceleration
  
• Great agility
  
• Extremely low profile, a KV-1 can't shoot at you at close range
  
  
• Cons
  
• Easy 180° turn, making this tank difficult to handle at high speed
  
• Insufficient break system
  
• Weak armament
  
• Weak armor

M24 Chaffee

• Pros
  
• Low profile
  
• The best cannon for light tanks in its tier
  
• Very agile
  
• Very fast reverse, thanks to the 4-speed reverse gear
  
• Fast turret traverse
  
• Equipped with a vertical plane stabilizer, allowing more accurate shots on the move or shoot-n-scoot tactics
  
• Pintle mounted HMG allows for shooting down aircraft
  
  
• Cons
  
• Thin armor on all sides
  
• Ammo count can be a problem in long games or RB/SB matches
  
• Vulnerable to nearby explosions
  
• 4 crewmembers, no spares
  
• Reload is quite slow for its caliber

M41A1 Walker Bulldog

• Pros
  
• Extremely agile tank
  
• Top speed of 72km/h
  
• Fast turret traverse (30.6°/S)
  
• Respectable firepower when loaded with APDS
  
• APDS has high muzzle velocity, easy to hit targets at longer ranges
  
• Good flanker - but if you lose your momentum, you're dead
  
• Good suspension, can drive away from steep downhills and jumps
  
  
• Cons
  
• Low torque, without downhill you won't reach higher speeds than 50km/h
  
• Thin armour, even SPAA will take you out given the opportunity
  
• Its poor engine is its biggest weakness, makes it a bad scouting unit
  
• Ammo storage in the front, next to the driver

T92

• Pros
  
• Extremely fast and agile
  
• High penetration ammo
  
• Low profile
  
• Low armor causes many shells to overmatch
  
  
• Cons
  
• Low armor causes any shell that hits you to pen
  
• MG rounds chew it up
  
• Once your seen, your screwed

M551 Sheridan

• Pros
  
• It can fire both ATGMs and HE rounds
  
• HE rounds are deadly, 152mm gun
  
• Very mobile
  
• ATGMs are devastating to whatever they hit
  
  
• Cons
  
• Missiles everywhere inside
  
• Lack of armor makes the above point much worse
  
• MGs will shred it
  
• ATGMs have to be researched

America: Tank Destroyers

"The american TDs are mostly glass cannons, they depend on speed, maneuverability and quick well aimed shots. However their armor is very thin (exceptions: T95 and T28) that most HE shells at their tier could kill or disable them. Their high profile also make them vulnerable to hidden enemy TDs or other tanks with lower profiles in cover. The guns on the american TDs however make up for the lack of armor, able to penetrate most/all tanks at it's tier. Basically glass cannons." -Кадзуми

75mm M3 GMC

• Pros
  
• Brilliant gun for its tier
  
• Relatively fast reload
  
• Losses very little speed when turning
  
• Its thin armour may make rounds overpen
  
  
• Cons
  
• Basically no armour
  
• Exposed crew
  
• A 7.62mm can easily wipe it out
  
• Artillery can hit the ground far from the GMC but damage you

M10 GMC

• Pros
  
• Extremely OP powerful 76mm gun
  
• Semi fast reload
  
• 50.cal Machine gun
  
• Decent turret armour
  
  
• Cons
  
• Exposed crew
  
• Painfully slow turret traverse
  
• Not the fastest of american GMC's

M18 GMC (Hellcat)

• Pros
  
• Fastest tank in the game
  
• Powerful gun
  
• Can easily circle any tank
  
• Decent reload speed
  
• May cause shells to over pen
  
• Second fastest reverse gear in the game (28kmh)
  
  
• Cons
  
• Paper thin armor
  
• Fire will result in your dying within seconds if not extinguished
  
• It's speed doesn't agree with war thunder physics
  
• Machine guns hurt.
  
• Hitting a stone wall will cripple you
  
• Exposed crew (especially the commander)

M36 GMC

• Pros
  
• Reletavely thick gun mantlet
  
• Excelent 90mm gun, penetration, and reload wise
  
• Armored ammo bustle (not much, but can stop some light tanks)
  
• Decent speed
  
  
• Cons
  
• Thin hull armor for the tier
  
• Painfully thin armor anywhere, not as bad as the Hellcat, but pretty bad.
  
• Most of the ammo is stored in the back of the turret, a shot that penetrates the front of the turret will probably stop inside the ammo rack
  
  
  

  T28

• Pros
  
• Nigh impenetrable from the front.
  
• Powerful, and fairly accurate 105 gun.
  
• Decent horizontal gun traversal (it can go side to side a bit).
  
  
• Cons
  
• Incredibly slow, and narrow tracks for the vheicles mass make it struggle a lot in soft ground
  
• Very slow hull traverse speed
  
• The commander's cupola at can easily be penetrated and will often disable your tank if the gun shooting you is 100mm or above (Try to avoid close quarters for this reason, it is a small target at long ranges)
  
  
  

  T95

• Pros
  
• Nigh impenetrable from the front.
  
• Powerful, and fairly accurate 105 gun.
  
• Decent horizontal gun traversal (it can go side to side a bit).
  
• Surprisingly decent side armour
  
  
• Cons
  
• Incredibly slow the vehicle mass makes it struggle a lot in soft ground
  
• Very slow hull traverse speed
  
• Can hardly turn while moving forward
  
• The commander's cupola at can easily be penetrated and will often disable your tank if the gun shooting you is 100mm or above (Try to avoid close quarters for this reason, it is a small target at long range
  
• By the time your in battle the game is well underway
  
  
  

America: Self-Propelled Anti-Aircraft (SPAA)

Final Words

Angels of Death[www.clanaod.net]
The above link is to AOD, my old squadron who i have to thank for a lot of the information in this guide.
They are always on the lookout for new members and have a large international group of players so there's always people online to squad with.

SOURCES

Alot of the more detailed information can be found on my old squadrons forums, i would link it but only members can access them without a blank page showing up.
My Experience (And hopefully yours too!)
wiki.warthunder.com
Guide Scroll[guidescroll.com]
Special Thanks to Admiral Obvious

Thanks to all who have helped provide information!

• Big thanks to MarrV, a member of AOD, for his information on the squadron forums
  
• Archibald Fooster
  
• 7call7
  
• Steve from customer service
• Big thanks to Кадзуми
  
• kiester kid
  
• justicefighter
  
• Big thanks to Sandwich
  
• Cpt. Recneps

What's this? Its a screenshot from the "sister guide" that contains information on how to destroy all the tanks! It's still a WIP but it's coming!
Project Cancled

[Nimorant]

I appreciate the guide very much and it can help alot.

For those who want a second guide:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3362795054

[MsBamboozleBat]

@twobubbabros, For trailers pulled by tanks, we have the Churchill crocodile. It pulls a flamethrower trailer. As landscape props their are wooden carts on some maps. The hanger has some too but beyond that, no gameplay involving them

[Bronze Dragon]

Question, are there any trailers/cart in the game just wondering

[亗 Silver Knight 亗]

how to have fun:
Play only easy mode, auto-win slav vehicles It will make you think of yourself: "I am really good at this game"
(but it's actually the RNG bonuses they give to the slav vehicles to make u think they are supreme on Earth)

[Snaky_Cake]

Take my points!!

[Admiral Epstein]

I know this is unrelated ,but one of the most evil thing I have ever seen I saw a jumbo but it's front armor was covered bushes making really hard for me to find the machine gun port.

[pills mane]

TLDR: uninstall the game

[mango]

I appreciate all the GUP stuff sprinkled in here

[PasteriNo]

holy shit, I never knew this game had this amount of depth.

[MsBamboozleBat]

Goodness.. I do miss this game sometimes lol. Its unlikely the sister guide will ever be completed, as its just too much effort and well, i haven't really played at all in the past years.
Though it is fun to just hop in randomly into tank RB and get top of the leader board without fail after all this years XD.
War Thunder is probably the sole reason i learnt so much about tanks and planes, and history regarding the wars.

Anyways i'm just being nostalgic, It makes me really happy to see that this old guide still helps you guys. Thanks for the kind words over the years ^^