Passing wires through walls

[NeonX]

Now I know we cannot do this directly. But there are many option under Power>Connectors&Switches. Can stuff like power conduit help achieve this. I am trying to put TV and stuff inside shacks but generator is outside.

[Docsprock]

One trick I learned is to remove the wall, then attach the wire(s), put the wall back. The wires should be through the wall.

Or, use the conduit piece that goes through the wall.

[NeonX]

Originally posted by Docsprock:

One trick I learned is to remove the wall, then attach the wire(s), put the wall back. The wires should be through the wall.

Or, use the conduit piece that goes through the wall.

thanks

[Ffabbia]

I just use the Invisible Wires and Longer Wires mods together with Place Everywhere, Problem solved, I really don't need a bunch of ugly cables ruining the aesthetic beauty of my settlements.

[DouglasGrave]

If the object requires a numbered amount of power it needs a wire attached directly, but if it has a power symbol with no amount listed (like most lights and televisions), it just needs a conduit piece with power attached placed close enough to it. So you can often just stick a conduit on a nearby wall.

There is also a wire glitch that allows you to ignore the usual restrictions by starting the process of attaching a wire with an existing wire highlighted (so the centre aiming dot is pointed at the object you're starting the wire from, but a wire you already built is highlighted). The new wire can then be connected to its second point even when walls are in the way. After it's connected you'll have to switch out of build mode since it temporarily leaves the selection process messed up, but you can switch straight back in.

There's even a "wireless" version of the above glitch that causes the wires to become invisible, but it's more complicated.

[Lord Nighthawk]

Under power - conduit are 2x items that are wall pass throughs.
Else you can move wires through broken/open windows or you use mods as some people suggested here.

[dtt.scanner]

No mods shop class is the best source for building anything in vanilla (with DLC for certain pieces). I have started doing everything using wireless conduits. You use the 2-wire method to make a wireless "hot" conduit, and place it where you need power. I wish I knew the link (it's in No Mods Shop Class too, but the video I saw was another streamer, and her explanation was simple and easy.) Search You.tube.

Edit: Thanks Pookie101. Hopefully the shop class explanation is just as good. I didn't direct there because they usually talk about a number of things, and not sure how long it would be.

[Xenon The Noble]

That's why there are so many walls with holes in them.
But I use the Pass through power connectors mod.
https://www.nexusmods.com/fallout4/mods/20262

[DouglasGrave]

For a brief coverage, a little while back I also took a few screenshots to illustrate the wireless glitch:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3078189553
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3078189565
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3078189591
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3078189616

[dtt.scanner]

Cool. Quick note though. I know you are using the true wire glitch when you click on the generator, but I didn't know you could grab the sparky that way. I thought you had to highlight the wire and grab the wire as close as you can to the source without losing the highlight on the wire. That gets you the sparky also. I didn't realize you could highlight the wire and then aim through it at the source.

Maybe that's what I was doing all along and just didn't realize it.

EDIT: I also like to point out, whenever people talk about wireless, that the logic gates need a wired connection going into the input from both sources. Wireless will not work correctly on logic gates. Wireless output from the logic gate to the device should be fine (like for an electric door with switches on both sides... going from switches to logic gate input needs to be true wire [one will be going through to the other side], and from logic gate to the door can be wireless, if you just want to hide as many wires as possible.) Both switches can be wirelessly "hot" but then true wired to the input. Also, I use the NAND gate, which is different from the one on the Skooled Zone (No Mods Workshop). If you fast travel it makes a difference which side you end up on with the XNOR gate. You might lock yourself out.

[DouglasGrave]

Originally posted by dtt.scanner:

Cool. Quick note though. I know you are using the true wire glitch when you click on the generator, but I didn't know you could grab the sparky that way. I thought you had to highlight the wire and grab the wire as close as you can to the source without losing the highlight on the wire. That gets you the sparky also. I didn't realize you could highlight the wire and then aim through it at the source.

Maybe that's what I was doing all along and just didn't realize it.

EDIT: I also like to point out, whenever people talk about wireless, that the logic gates need a wired connection going into the input from both sources. Wireless will not work correctly on logic gates. Wireless output from the logic gate to the device should be fine (like for an electric door with switches on both sides... going from switches to logic gate input needs to be true wire [one will be going through to the other side], and from logic gate to the door can be wireless, if you just want to hide as many wires as possible.) Both switches can be wirelessly "hot" but then true wired to the input. Also, I use the NAND gate, which is different from the one on the Skooled Zone (No Mods Workshop). If you fast travel it makes a difference which side you end up on with the XNOR gate. You might lock yourself out.

Well, since I happen to already have a picture for that too, I usually do it as below, with a XOR switch:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2778192155
One of the switches goes outside the door, the other inside, and it opens from either side.

[dtt.scanner]

That's interesting. Apparently, XOR and NAND have the same effect, but probably for different reasons. With NAND (not AND), it is true when they are not the same, and false when they are the same (both on or both off).

For people who haven't set up an electric door before. The first thing to do is to make two wireless "hot" switches. Put the logic gate (XOR or NAND) on the door section on the opposite side (directly opposite) from the door conduit. Place one switch under the logic gate, and one switch under the door conduit. It helps if you place the switch under the door conduit first, and connect it to the door conduit (temporarily) to keep the door open so you can work on both sides. You will use this wire later, so it's not just useful but necessary.

Connect the switch under the logic gate to the gate input, then do a "true wire" from that wire (grabbing next to the gate input) to the switch on the other side. Now both your switches are hot wired to the gate input. Then grab the temporary wire on the other side (true wire from where the other switch temporarily connects to the door, grabbing next to the door conduit) and connect it to the output on the logic gate (True wire will let you pass it through the wall). The wire should be nearly completely hidden, since it goes directly through the wall from the door to the logic gate output. Remove the temporary wire from the switch to the door. All done.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3286025626

You don't have to do wireless switches, but both switches must then be "hot wired." It's not as aesthetically pleasing having wires running all over.

[dtt.scanner]

When doing wireless, it is important to know that when you grab the "sparky," you need to grab it from the hot source end of the wire. If you grab the other end, you will break the "hot" connection and you will have a wireless dead conduit (i.e. do it again from the other end.) You can and probably should set up all of your power sources connected to a single conduit, and then use that as your "hot source" for all of your wireless conduits in your settlement. (I.e. make all of your hot conduits at that location, and then carry them to where they are needed.) That way as long as nothing happens to that one conduit, all of your conduits will remain independently hot. This is also true with your switches. Make everything off of that one conduit. Decide where you want it to be, and don't move it once it is set up. I think you can even disconnect the power source (replace with fusion reactor, or whatever) and it shouldn't affect the connection with all of the other conduits. Just don't store or delete that source conduit. I think that is preferable to using the actual power supply conduit, since you may want to replace the power supply with something better. Anything connected directly to that power supply will break the wireless connection if it is removed. So, have a pylon or wall/ceiling mount conduit that all of your power runs through, and that is your source conduit.

[dtt.scanner]

I know I'm hogging the thread, but I need to correct myself. According to the logic gate descriptions, the XNOR gate is supposed to do what the NAND gate actually does, and the NAND gate is supposed to do something completely different. According to the description, the XNOR gate is supposed to do what I'm using the NAND gate to do, but it doesn't actually do that, it does something else, which is why I got locked out when using it. It may be the case that on the console game, they work correctly and so the XNOR put forth by Skooled Zone would be the right one to use. On the PC, they are definitely mis-wired, and do not match the descriptions. If they ever fix this, then you may need to change your XOR and NAND gates to XNOR gates.

[DouglasGrave]

Originally posted by dtt.scanner:

I know I'm hogging the thread, but I need to correct myself. According to the logic gate descriptions, the XNOR gate is supposed to do what the NAND gate actually does, and the NAND gate is supposed to do something completely different. According to the description, the XNOR gate is supposed to do what I'm using the NAND gate to do, but it doesn't actually do that, it does something else, which is why I got locked out when using it. It may be the case that on the console game, they work correctly and so the XNOR put forth by Skooled Zone would be the right one to use. On the PC, they are definitely mis-wired, and do not match the descriptions. If they ever fix this, then you may need to change your XOR and NAND gates to XNOR gates.

From what I understand, they behave a little weirdly because of their power requirements, having both inputs unpowered means that a XNOR or NAND gate shuts off the power flow entirely, undercutting one of their own logical outputs.

Instead of XNOR sending power when it doesn't have just one input, which would mean both inputs being off should also work, it only sends power through if both inputs are powered (which is the behaviour of an AND gate). NAND is supposed to send power through if it doesn't have two inputs powered, but has the same logic failure if neither is powered, which means it behaves like a XOR gate (sending power through when exactly one input is powered).


To lay that out, compare the inputs for those gates with 0 and 1 for powered and unpowered inputs, and the valid logical outputs that should provide power in bold:

XNOR vs. AND
00 - 00
01 - 01
10 - 10
11 - 11

NAND vs. XOR
00 - 00
01 - 01
10 - 10
11 - 11
As you can see, knocking out the result of both inputs being unpowered (00) effectively turns the XNOR into AND and the NAND into XOR.

The wiki's suggestion is (approximately) to have the power go through another active logic gate first.
https://fallout.fandom.com/wiki/Logic_gate

[dtt.scanner]

Oh, I get what you are saying. They need to maybe fix the logic gates so that the power for the gate itself comes from ambient power, and not from the input node.

According to the definitions, the XOR is not exactly broken when 2 inputs are off, so it is probably the best gate to use. If anyone ever patches the logic gates, it will still behave the same.