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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kB1aWwU1_MBpDesicUij6TV8oDjwzhnb/view?usp=sharing
You're probably correct, but then the calculations of cost are inflated (again, maybe it's the tech pool that is supposed to be really high). Anyhow - my car in question, a 1987 sedan at 1270 kg actually had even larger tyres - 210 width. Since my thoughts were also around quality, I increased wheel quality by 5 and that resulted in braking distance going down from 47 m to 46 m... It also doesn't have any aero, but come on
P.S. +14 quality on wheels? Wow. Also, doesn't it look weird that this is pretty much the only part (except for bottom end and a bit on the interior) where you had to add quality? Basically, if quality (or tech pool) was overall consistent, either the tyres would be trash or the cars would be extremely expensive... It's probably this consistency issue that is confusing me more than anything else. After all, it's easy to make cool cars with max quality all around.
As far as my fiddling with the quality sliders elsewhere, that was primarily to get the curb weight to match the real car. Not necessarily indicative of any inconsistencies that I'm aware of. For example, I've had to add downforce and use a bit of negative aero quality to get the top speed to match a different replica's real-life equivalent because the base body in automation had too little drag.
I'm happy to build another (1980s) replica where I can find period data for it. It's possible there's an issue with stat progression - that is, the overall grip of the tires as a function of their model year unfairly penalizes older cars vs newer cars. Definitely worth investigating for sure!
Replica builds are really handy to figure out how much tweaking needs to be done :)
Or maybe braking grip in general just needs a little buff.
Certainly something to investigate!
Cheers
I'm the one who complained in the update bug section about braking distances. I have made an another experiment about this.
I have tried to recreate the facelift of the second generation Lexus LS400 (produced between 1997-2000).
I have set the tech pool +8 for everything (because Toyota), the year is 1992 (try to simulate the usual 5-6 years of engineering). I have used real life size brakes and tyres. I have raised the quality for the tyres and brakes +8 to match the tech pool. Yet the braking distance still bad. 46.6 m in Automation, 44-45 m in BeamNG.
In real life the 1997 Lexus LS400 can stop 60 mph to 0 in 116 feet which is 35.36 m, that means 100 km/h to 0 is around 37-38 m.
Here is the link for the test:
https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/1998-lexus-ls-400/
Real life 1997-2000 Lexus LS 400:
1765 kg
216 kW at 6000 rpm
407 Nm at 4000 rpm
225/60 VR 16 676 mm diameter
Front brakes: 315 mm vented disc
Rear brakes: 307 mm vented disc
60 mph - 0: 116 ft (35.36 m)
My recreation:
1696 kg (1706 was measured in BeamNG)
216 kW at 5900
395 Nm at 4200
225/60/16 Radial medium compound 675 mm diameter tyres +8 quality
315 mm 4 caliper vented disc front brakes, 305 mm 1 caliper vented disc rear brakes +8 quality
Has ABS (and works in BeamNG)
100 km/h - 0: 46.6 m in Automation, 44-45 m in BeamNG
Also the grip is low (probably playing role in the bad braking distances). Despite using the real world gear ratios the tyres are always spinning in first gear, ruining 0-100 km/h acceleration.
Here are the real world gear ratios:
Final drive ratio: 3.266
I. 3.357
II. 2.18
III. 1.424
IV. 1
V. 0.753
I have set the gear ratios as close as possible to the real world gear ratios in my recreation. Yet the car can't get a grip in 1st gear.
Test all the compounds, with the same settings otherwise. Only change the compound.
Will this give different results? And how much?
P.S. it is a 1987 2.5m RWD sedan with front longtitudinal engine placement. Wheels are 210/65 R16 medium compound with +2 quality (from tech pool). Weight is 1279 kg 59%/41% front/rear distribution, no aero. Front camber 0.5, front toe 0.15, rear toe 0.25.
Brakes are solid disk - Front: 2-piston 275mm, 121% force; Rear: 2-piston 190mm, 82% force, normal 50 pads, quality +2 (from tech pool).
Feel free to check it out. It contains 20 replicas spanning various decades and tire types, as well as a spreadsheet summarizing each car.
Sounds fairly reasonable. I still have my doubts, but I guess I need to look deeper into the cars you made to figure out what I might be missing.
Also om a side note - I like those gearing curves on all cars. Did you copy the ratios from the real cars or did you make those yourself? If those are of your own making, what is the rule of thumb to create such gearing?
The gearing was copied from the real cars where I could easily find the data. If there were any exceptions (or mistakes), I did my best to guess. I think I accidentally gave the McLaren a crossplane crank for instance because I forgot to click the button to switch to flatplane. Little mistakes like that might be present throughout. But overall, I did try to stay true to the real life counterparts especially with respect to curb weight (weight distribution might be off as well on some vehicles), brakes, and tires.
edit: CarWow (YouTube) did a few braking tests that I think we can add to the benchmarks for the giggles. A Bugatti Chiron did 100 km/h to 0 in 33 m. A Lamborghini Urus did 70 mph to 0 in 46 m, which according to my conversion factor equals 36.2 m 100-0. A Mercedes-AMG CLA45 S did 70 mph-0 in 48 m or 37.8 m 100-0 according to my conversion factor. The numbers seem to match my expectations for high performance cars on semi-slick (Bugatti) or sports tires (AMG and Lambo) on a modern car.
Longer braking times as compared to... the previous iteration of the game where the tires were far too grippy to be realistic? Yes! Compared to real-life equivalents? They're on par and it's not too difficult to match.
If you find its "easy" to eliminate brake fade then that can probably be explained by 1 of 2 things. Either the pad types real life manufacturers are using are much lower than what most people are used to selecting in game. Or the brakes thermal efficiency need to be nerfed in the same way grip needed to be. (I'm going to guess it's the former)
Pad type is more difficult to compare with real life equivalents because it's a numerical value and not a material type. I'm "guessing" 0 - organic, 25 - ceramic, 50 - semi-metallic (less metal), 75 - semi-metallic (more metal), 100 - fully metallic race pads would be a good rule of thumb.
1. slightly better handling (seems like suspension setting still does most of the work)
2. 0-100 went from 8.8 to 8.6 (minor improvement) - both are still WAY better than 9.4 Automation value btw - not sure what's going on here, as normally 0-100 times were worse in BeamNG. Car weight is only a couple of kgs lower in BeamNG.
3. 102-0 BRAKING DISTANCE went from 50.2 m to 43.2 m
And that's on narrower tyres. So while BeamNG itself might not be the best representation of the actual real-world cars (maybe they decided to take the declared values and not the Car and Driver ones as their benchmark), the inconsistency is definitely there and it does look like at least in BeamNG we need a slight buff back for our tyres.
P.S. To be fair, the original car has +2 tyre quality (from tech pool) while BeamNG does not differentiate by quality at all. So maybe BeamNG just assumes tyres of maximum quality all around? I was able to approximate the BeamNG braking distance by equipping my sedan with 205/55 R16 Medium tyres with +17 quality (+15 and +2 tech pool) in Automation, then exported it to BeamNG. The results:
1. Lower mass (unintended consequence, but that's what increasing wheel quality does) - 20 kg lighter
2. MUCH better handling. This means that handling probably was originally captured pretty accurately for 'default quality' tyres.
3. 0-100 is around 8.6, so pretty much the same as BeamNG tyres
4. 102-0 braking distance is 43.8 m - again, same as the BeamNG tyres (but the car is 20 kg lighter)
It looks like the default +5 tech pool quality tyres are generally well balanced in terms of handling/acceleration, but are significantly behind in braking.