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Insert Home [Page Up]
Delete End [Page Down]
No mini map. no health bar, everything as described above, even the fast travel markers do not say "fast travel" and when manual saving "game saved" is not displayed on the screen. I am going back into the game and will try pressing the home key.
UPDATE: Home key was the problem. Sorted thanks to this thread.
It started while playing the roll of Ciri running through hordes of guards with Dandelion, down stairs, up stairs, running like a chicken without a head as there was no mini map shown to guide me in the right direction.