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in the first big level you are given a disguise as part of the story, in the second big level you do need to progress in a quest to get it (highly recommended) as otherwise stealth is needed more. and when you find the optional disguises stealth is no longer an issue at all. (can;t speak for the later parts of the game, as I haven't got there after 20 hours. :p)
Aah, yeah, that's correct. Once you get the solider uniform, you only have to avoid higher ranking officials, but they are only in the restricted areas. There are different clothes for different areas, Indy's own clothes have the most health. There are 3 open-world levels where you can do this, rest of the levels are more linear.