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Yeah it's really all over the place in games. With movies it's an improvement 99% of the time but a lot of developers don't understand HDR I think and they just kill all the contrast.
This game has some of that for sure, if you switch back and forth with SDR and HDR you'll see really dark areas in caves go from pitch black to a dull grey. However it's also true that it'll make the interior of a house much darker than the light in the doorway without losing detail. It's really 50/50 in this game.
But anything you want to "examine" is impossible too see unless you are in the correct angle towards a strong light. Even the map is hard too see many times.
Im more disappointed with Path Tracing. That one is really messed up. But where it works it looks pretty darned good.
In conclusion - I have the same feelings as you. Dark, grayish, meh. :]
All the HDR games also require the windows HDR mode on before you turn the ingame HDR on.
only exception that i know to this rule is ME Andromeda which had HDR that turned windows HDR on by itself while ingame so you did not toggle HDR on before starting the game.
I prefer sRGB colorspace over rec2020 HDR.
Simple reason really is that half ass design of the windows HDR mode which have to be always on or off.
You have to always remember to turn it on before starting the game or leave it always on and suffer washed picture in desktop when windows feeds sRGB signal to HDR mode.
Just leaving it off it is not worth the trouble for me.
However on the ps5/xbox HDR works just fine it is content detection that turn HDR on or off.
I'm leaning toward HDR but the blacks in SDR are way punchier and the bright desert day looks a lot brighter. HDR adds a lot of subtlety that helps the visuals though, like when light peeks into a cave and whatnot. It's really a mixed bag IMO.
I find HDR in HGIG mode on my ASUS OLED to be fine for desktop use. If I wanna watch an SDR video or something I'll probably turn it off, but for normal use like posting here right now I just leave HDR on.
If you don't use HGIG though it might be blowing out the highlights in games and making your desktop look like a nuke's going off.
P.S. You know you can turn HDR on and off with win-alt-b right? Takes like two seconds, can even do it in-game.
That being said i have never been big fan of the HDR it was not for me that big wow! factor same as 4k resolution.
Only time when i did say WOW! was when i did saw bluray and full hd first time at my home in 130" white screen and fullhd JVC DILA projector that was a wow!.
I like more of the 2,2 or or 2,3 gamma calibrated sRGB because of the more dark kinda feeling picture compared to more brighter HDR that in my experience lose the darker tone of the image.
And Oled (woled) brightness leaves a lot to be desired HDR or even sGRB color output when you compare it to qd-oled or even to this miniled backlighted VA panel that NEO G9 has.