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The way I solved the problem is beyond weird :
I had the problem for a few days, bugged me but I was able to play so... I noticed that Windows 10 startup was a little slower to, like something was preventing it to start in seconds like it usually do.
Somehow it decided to check Device manager, I had an USB device complaining (unplugged replugged and the complaint went away BUT I also remove an unknown device that was also complaining, Chose to uninstall the unknown device
Rebooted
Windows booted in a flash and no more freezing problems in AC...
Went out and bought a lottery ticket for this friday....
Huh, that's odd, that it should be an USB issue.
Anyhow, I gave it a look. I have no USB device that seems to complain. I could however update my USB 3.1 to a newer version, but it didin't help.
I'm not sure if a t300 prefers a USB 2.0 port, but those are occupied by my mouse and keyboard. Afaik at least the keyboard needs a 2.0 port for it to work in the BIOS.
I guess I could try and remove some devices and see if that helps.
Worth noting is that it works more smoothly if I go into xbox 360 controller or keyboard options then back to wheel settings before I try to adjust anything.
Thrustmaster Control Panel also seems to be a bit slow to load occasionally, at least whilst AC is running.
Did you win? :P
Any other input is appreciated,
Thanks
Are you connecting it via a USB 2.0 port?
That's actually kinda weird, maybe it is solely an issue with w10?
...try a port that is connected to the chipset-controller for your wheel. You should be able to read some markings on the ATX connection-bracket or consult your motherboard's owners' manual as to which ports are connected to what. Many upmarket boards do use additional controller-chips (and sometimes even built-in hubs) to provide a surplus number of ports (that they can then utilise as bigger numbers on the box). Usually the off-chipset stuff is more-likely to be problematic.
If that does not help, well - maybe you should remove some other usb-device temporarily or move it to another channel (again, controllers posess multiple channels as per usual). Having multiple devices with high polling-rates populate the same channel sometimes is a recipe for desaster.
Many possibilities and only one way to find out: elimination.
Trying to delete and reinstall USB drivers didn't yield much, but trying to connect and disonnect USB devices lead me to the probable cause.
I use an external DAC (digital-to-analog converter) and an amplification, basically a soundcard outside your PC. For some really really really weird reason, just changing my default sound device back to the onboard sound, the hang seems to disappear just like that. And the moment I use the DAC/AMP for sound, it returns, no need to disconnect the USB at all.
I guess it is an USB usage thing, but why would it work by simply changing the default sound source in windows, without physically disconnecting it? Does that make sense?
While I hope this is the cause, and I'm relieved of that, it's a damn shame if I have to put the DAC to rest. Not least because it costs a little bit. I suppose the AMP would work since the signal originates from the onboard if I were to use only that.
Anyhow, can anyone explain why this should be the cause. I mean, I'd understand it better if I really had to disconnect the DAC physically. Or isn't it active if you choose not to use it as a sound source? Changing it from 2.0 to 3.0 to 3.1 port doesn't change the result either.
It's weird.
Everything fall into place when i unplug it !!
Does everything work with the k70 or you have the same issues ?