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Oh and avoid ramming people - it's just a complete waste of your plane.
Enjoy the grind
* listen for enemy tanks
* know where to shoot
* don't cross large open areas
* do not go the same way where one of your teammates just died. Seriously, don't. No.
* don't get into punching matches
* if you know a tank is standing still around the corner, he knows you're coming and will fire first.
The clown cars are a gang of funny, wobbly, undergunned soda cans, but they are *my* soda cans!
But no, probably a bad idea to start with the more requiring nations.
What modes are you interested in?
If people start given blanket tips for Air, and you're interested in Naval, that doesnt help you at all...
Most IMPORTANT OF ALL, get the right SETTINGS!!! Watch YT videos of people explaining that, just 2 examples. Turn of grass for tanks in sniping mode or turn off crew voices/lower your engine noise to "0" and enemie engine full sound. take your time in battles and learn vehicles and maps.
Adding to this list, avoid cresting hills and if you are hull down behind a hills shooting. Change your position after shooting do not peek up again from the same position you shot from.
I play ground (a lot) so here's a basic guide;
All gamemodes in War Thunder are divided into three modes:
In air battles, this means vehicles can maneuver much better, are more responsive, and have lead indicators.
In ground battles, this means they have higher turret rotation speeds, top speeds, handle better off-road, reload faster, and replace crew members faster. You also get a guide telling you ranges, and the game will try to tell you what shots will and won't penetrate armor.
In air battles, this means that vehicles maneuver closer to real life and lose energy (speed) faster. Vehicles may be unresponsive at certain speeds or controls may lock up at certain altitudes and speeds. Flaps and even wings may rip off if you are traveling at high speeds or make certain maneuvers, and your pilot can fall unconscious as a result of G-Force. You have no lead indicator for your aircraft and must learn the effective range and lead of your guns.
In ground battles, this means vehicles have a close to real turret rotation speed, lower top speeds, have difficulties handling off-road if they don't have tracks, crew members take longer to replace, damaged components take longer to repair, and reload speeds are slightly more realistic. You have to range find targets yourself and the game does nothing to help you learn or see weak spots.
In air battles, you require a flight stick or a use a mouse joystick control scheme. You have full control of your flight surfaces and flying in general is significantly harder.
In ground battles friendly fire is enabled. Be sure to identify your target before you shoot!
Premium is a paid service in War Thunder that provides various benefits. You earn double research rewards (used to unlock new vehicles) and double silver lion rewards (used to repair vehicles, purchase ammo, purchase new vehicles, and train your crew on new vehicles). Premium is on sale, usually at 30% off during the Christmas and Summer sales.
Premium with Premium is a term used to describe playing a Premium vehicle with a Premium account. The Premium account bonus stacks with the innate bonus of a Premium vehicle. You can also accomplish this by purchasing a Talisman for a non-Premium vehicle.
Spend a lot of time in the protection analysis for your battle rating. Learn the weakspots on enemy tanks and where their crew are at. Killing individual crew members will knock tanks out. Shooting the same spot multiple times will have little to no effect.
High Explosive Rounds
Exemplified by a high explosive mass, low velocity and low armor penetration, these shells are highly effective against unarmored and light targets, but struggle against heavier targets. High caliber HE rounds can knock out almost every target in the game, though.
Similar to a standard High Explosive shell, but it has a timed fuse that you can set by binding a key to rangefinding. Pressing that button will automatically set the fuse to the distance your rangefinder has recorded and the shell will detonate at that distance consistently.
Similar to a standard High Explosive shell, but it has a variably timed fuse that is often represented by a proximity fuse. These shells are highly effective against aircraft as they detonate in close proximity to helicopters or jets.
Solid Armor Piercing Rounds
A solid shell with high velocity and high armor penetration. Often ricochets at steep angles and has poor post-penetration damage, requiring more precise aim.
A higher velocity AP round that maintains speed better over longer distances. Performs better at steep angles.
A APC round that trades angular performance for long range performance and speed.
An AP round that combines the effectiveness of APC and APBC.
Armor Piercing High Explosive Rounds
An armor piercing round with a High Explosive filler. These rounds often have less penetration than their solid counterparts, but when they do penetrate they explode dealing significant damage to the internals and crew of a vehicle.
An APHE round with a ballistic cap increasing its effective armor penetrating, but increasing the chance of a ricochet at steeper angles.
An APHE round with similar armor penetrating to APHEBC, but has an additional penetrating cap to extend effectiveness against steeper angles at the cost of explosive mass.
An APHE round with an extremely high explosive mass. Often capable of ruining the day of your enemy and the two allies next to them.
Sub-Caliber Armor-Piercing Rounds
Extremely hard rounds that have extremely high armor penetration, but poor angular performance and post-penetration. These rounds are sub-caliber munitions, which means the penetrating projectile is smaller than the diameter of your cannon.
Extremely hard armor like APCR, but they discard a sabot, which is a liner on the shell that allows to to be fired as a sub-caliber munition like the above. The sabot ejects radially from the shell like a shotgun and can penetrate lightly skinned vehicles at close ranges. These shells have very little post penetration damage and can even shatter at certain armor thicknesses.
The pinnacle of sub-caliber AP rounds. These are extremely long AP rounds that discard a sabot at extremely high velocity. Once fired it has fins that improve the long range accuracy. These rounds are the strongest kinetic rounds in the game.
High Explosive, Anti-tank rounds
These rounds have a large explosive mass behind a shaped charge. They focus metal into a single beam that penetrates extremely thick armor. The post penetration damage is extremely focused. Damage on these shells is not dependent on distance.
These are HEAT rounds with fin-stabilization. They have better long range performance, accuracy, and are often better at penetrating tanks. These shells struggle at composite armors and Explosive Reactive armor.
These are specialized HEAT-FS rounds that have a proximity fuse. These are effectively a combination of a HEATFS and HE-VT* round.
Armor of standardized thickness. This armor is made of, often, rolled flat plates welded together.
Slightly more effective RHA.
Cast armor of standardized thickness. This armor is poured into a cast as molten metal and cooled to create a single piece, rather than a large variety of plates. CHA can be identified by, often, rounded plates.
Rolled armor that is harder. Performs better at the same thickness as RHA.
Slightly more effective than HHRA.
Unarmored structural components on the outside of a tank. These can still preemptively detonate ammunition and block shots, and are counted in armor calculations.
An advanced screen of multiple different metals that have extremely high performance. These are often placed on top of internal composite armors.
Often present on late Russian tanks, these screens prevent shrapnel and debris from damage equipment or preemptively detonating ERA.
A tin can.
This is a composite armor screen with non-energetic reactive armor elements. These are often extremely effective at stopping HEAT-FS and even shattering or blocking APFSDS. This is modern tank armor.
These are 'bricks' placed on the outside of a tank that detonate when hit with a shell. This detonation deflects energy from HEATFS rounds, preventing them from effectively penetrating armor it otherwise would. ERA is a one-time use armor and cannot be replaced. Russian and Chinese ERA is somewhat effective against kinetic munitions like APFSDS.
Hope some of that helps, and good luck suffering alongside the rest of us!
They all use the standardized layout of shells I provided above.
The United Kingdom is a valid choice, but only uses solid Armor Piercing shells outside of a few exceptions. This makes it very hard to learn and extremely frustrating even as an experienced player, but the awful experience will make you very good at the game.
China, Italy, and Sweden are all very good starter nations as well but are... Weird. They have some unique tanks and challenges, often using weird designs or ammunition. Great to get into later on, but will give you an interesting start to the game.
I do not recommend Japan as a starter for new players in ground vehicles. It's funny, but you will have a bad time in your funny clown tanks.