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For turns, you want to slow down a bit and not touch the mouse when on the horse's back.
For rocks and the likes, staying on the road is usually your best bet.
Wolves tend to be away from roads as well which is nice since they will chase and possibly kill your horse.
To get used to how the horse handles, it can be helpful to start with a donkey instead.
MD horseriding opens up a taste of what I must have missed all my life. ... And its nice to be able to outrun Wolves if you want to.
I press A or D to turn and *I* am pointed in the right direction, but the horse is not.
I didn't expect to have to look straight down at the dirt the entire time I was riding. You should be able to see the horse's head while sitting looking straight forward in the saddle.
Mount your horse. Look down and you will see your horses' head. Now look up to where you want your view while riding to be. Do not turn your view from straight ahead with the mouse. If you do repeat the look down look up bit. Now this is the important bit:
TAKE YOUR HAND OFF YOUR MOUSE AND LEAVE IT OFF.
When you start riding your head is in line with the horses' and you will have the view you want. This is provided you haven't touched/moved the mouse.
As everyone said, once you are on the horse, don't touch the mouse, because it will rotate your POV relative to the horse. If you only steer with WASD, you can easily keep track of your direction of movement because it will match your direction of vision.
Horses for transport seems like it should be a good option, but I prefer off-road travel in this game. The fun stuff is all off the path.