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But yeah, even an item that's technically an inner layer will work as an outer layer if there's nothing layered on top of it.
So basically if you've got a pair of longjohns equipped but no pants, the longjohns are the outer layer on the legs, providing windproofness etc. But any pair of proper pants, like jeans, being equipped will override them as the outer layer.
The shirt, longjohn and sock categories are the ones that can be overriden by another category; coats, pants and shoes.
I've tested it out to make sure it works this way, basically you can see it easiest from the windproof, protection and waterproof stats. A really bad item of outer clothes layered on a good inner item can actually make your total stats in those go down.