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If it is still understeering (and many will) bring the front ARB down a couple notches and the back up a couple notches until it turns in right. If it is already slide-y on exit then just bring down the front.
If it's Front WD you need to bring the Diff down and max (or at least heavily prioritize) front tire width. If it's RWD you want to increase front tire width and get closer to square (or keep the existing tire width ratio if you are adding power... if you put a ton of power on it naturally you need rear tire but too much rear tire = massive understeer you need to compensate for. If it's rear/mid engine you can bring the anti-dive/squat down a few clicks for more grip and less glidy-ness on entry/exit.
Test your car on Nurburg or Mid-Ohio to make sure it can get around the tight low speed 'undeersteer tests' on those tracks.
You just have to tune the understeer out. Most cars IRL are understeer-y from the dealer to prevent mid life crisis buyers from wreaking them around a pole as they leave the lot. I own a fucking (old ass) Corvette and it is understeer-y.
You should be using a tuning calculator after upgrading a car enough to disturb it's weight/front balance. If you slap a big turbo on or do an engine/drive swap or a ton of chassis weight redux it's pretty much mandatory if you ever want the car to handle right again.
I agree with the deadzone settings needing to be changed on the controller, but man the "simulation steering" is merciless
Btw Forza is the only racing game I play with a controller, and I cannot corner like at all if I don't have the ABS on, how do people corner without it? The wheels just lock