Playing with fire: How to control the Bolide 320 GTR

The Bolide is an unforgiving car. Zero assists, RWD only, and more horses than you know what to do with... Here's how to tame it. And no, this isn't a ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ disguised as a guide. This is a proper how-to for the best car in the game.

Introduction

bo·lide
/ˈbōlīd,ˈbōləd/
noun
: a large meteor : fireball especially : one that explodes.



The Civetta Bolide is a hard to master car, especially its GTR variant. This car offers no hand to hold and punishes you severely for every mistake, and the only luxury that the car offers is a rev limiter. You may think that practicing with the least user-friendly, most powerful car in the game isn't a good way to learn how to handle the Bolide family, and you may believe that "baby steps" are the best way to learn. Don't be alarmed, because this guide has its own baby steps for you to follow. The only thing you need is a controller (or even better, a sim racing wheel) understanding of car terms and a little bit of courage and strong will. If these don't apply to you, then this guide isn't for you. If you have no resistance to the urge to smash anything you're put behind the wheel of, then... Yeah, you neither, now leave.

Now that that's out of the way, thank you for choosing my guide. I promise I won't trick you with an elaborate ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ like the rest of these guys. I'll get right to it as to not bore you with a whole life story since you're only here to figure out how to handle this car.

Preparing your game

Your standard BeamNG controls are usually uncalibrated, so you'll have to adjust them to your liking. The steering, throttle, and brake controls are linear by default, meaning the input is translated to your game in a 1:1 scale. This isn't a problem for wheel users, and is even desirable, as you have much finer control over your feet and a physical wheel. For controller users, however, this can lead to the car feeling fidgety. This can, thankfully, be fixed easily in the game's controls settings. While adjusting these settings, I suggest actively trying them with a lower-trim Bolide.

The most important setting you want to touch on is the steering axis. More specifically, its sensitivity settings. The standard steering has no smoothing, meaning any involuntary twitches are translated directly into your game. To fix this, you can change the filter setting. "Key (smooth)" does what it sounds like: it adjusts the behavior of the output to more smoothly move to the given input, meaning that the game won't try to immediately snap to where your input tells it to. "Key (fast)" does something similar to this, but is much snappier. I don't recommend this one for the task at hand, but you can use it if you like.

To make your thumbstick more resistant to slight bumps from its resting point, adjust the "Deadzone (rest)" setting. 0.05 is a comfortable point for me, personally, but feel free to adjust it to whatever you're comfortable with. I suggest adjusting "Deadzone (end)" slightly if you have problems with your stick either not being able to reach its full output value or taking too long to do so, but otherwise don't touch it.

The complicated-looking chart shows what your thumbstick does from its resting point its end value. A V-shape depicts a 1:1 output from end to end. If you have an uncomfortably stiff thumbstick, unsteady fingers, or anything else, then I suggest increasing the Linearity setting. I've found 3 to be comfortable, but, as i've said before, adjust it until you find a point that you like. You're essentially trying to get more of a U-shape out of the chart.

To save on any confusion, below are my current settings. Use this as a way to navigate your way to the necessary settings. You can move your thumbstick while you configure this, and it will show how much of an output you will get from your car via a small circle that moves along the chart.



If you also have trouble with the Throttle and Brake controls, then you can apply similar settings to them as well. The smoothing filter works with both triggers, and you can also adjust their linearity. Refer to my controls below for a better understanding.



Adjusting sensitivity and such behavior will always make a world of difference when you tune them for extreme conditions. This game is no exception. As you get better with driving at the limit, you will also want to switch to snappier controls to make sure you get the most out of your car. Things like steering reduction for example will harm you if you have too much of it. You can increase this setting to something higher if you believe you have gotten better with steering.

You may also want to customize your UI Apps. Actively visualizing what outputs you're getting helps a lot when handling a sensitive car like the Bolide. When you're customizing, make sure that you keep your apps as out-of-the-way as possible so that you have a clear view when you really need it.

Here's my time trial UI in the editor. Excuse my low graphics settings.



And here it is from the cockpit view.



You may also want to make sure that your Freeroam and Time Trial layouts are similar. If you only customize your time trial layout, you will have to switch to that layout in the app editor every time you enter freeroam.

"Baby" steps

Now that your game is set up for the task at hand, you're ready to start getting a feel for the 320 GTR's behavior. You can open whatever map you like. I tend to use West Coast because of its size and open roads, as well as the included circuit. The circuit is fairly large with enough turns to keep it challenging, but also enough straights to have fun with. I even suggest using this circuit to warm up if you're already familiar with the GTR but are rusty with its handling. Without further ado, let's get to analyzing the unique nature of this beauty.

I strongly discourage modifying the GTR not because I'm a bloody purist, but because you might actually ruin it. Besides, this guide is based on the original, unmodified 320 GTR. Any modification beyond paint and your gauges could cause discrepancies in the guide.

With that being said, let's take note of the features of the 320 GTR. First we'll go over some specs to give us an idea of what to expect from this monster. Feel free to skip to the next section if you already know what these parts do, but I still suggest reading through this just to see what you're in for without going through the parts selector.

it's important to note that the 320 GTR uses a manual transmission, and NOT a sequential, meaning that you have to operate the clutch. You should also note that the clutch assistant will sometimes make shifting up slower than usual. For the sake of controller users I suggest leaving clutch and throttle assistants on, but you should continue to manually shift up to save precious seconds. Downshifting for the most part should be no problem as long as you are completely off of the throttle and brakes when you do so. Downshifting while braking too hard can cause your brakes to lock up while slowing down, especially in the hotter climates such as West Coast USA.

The 3.2L V8 engine is the smallest of the three engines available, but don't be deceived: with the performance block and 21PSI turbocharger, the 320 GTR won't hesitate to severely punish you for handling it like a casual. The engine's maximum RPM is 8000 by default, which keeps the engine from getting too hot and limits how much power you get out of the engine and into the wheels in your high end.

The engine's huge turbocharger will also make it unstable in the first gear if you're too heavy on the throttle. Turbochargers supply the most power at the high end, which is the optimal conditions of a car of this nature. In high gears, turbos are your friend. In lower gears, not so much. This is why you want to be light on the throttle when first taking off so that you don't spin out of control.

Now for some specs that will give you some idea of how to handle it.

In terms of brakes, the GTR uses your usual race brakes and full race pads, but uses them at 95% capacity by default. DO NOT CHANGE THIS, as it makes the car much easier to control while braking. It has only 5% more braking force applied to the front wheels, which gives it very balanced braking force. Because of how balanced its braking force is, you most likely will deal with total traction loss if you completely lock your brakes. Remember to let off the brakes a little when downshifting.

The GTR is also equipped with a Limited Slip Differential, meaning that it behaves differently when under throttle. When coasting (no throttle,) the GTR's differential is completely open, but both wheels will share torque when under throttle. Because of this, you should remember that if you start to oversteer with light throttle, then you can possibly save yourself by letting off the gas. Also try not to steer too sharply while recovering from oversteer, as always.

The GTR's extreme aerodynamics will also help you handle it under high speeds, obviously. If you have damaged or missing aerodynamic parts, then for one you've already failed at driving it, and also you'll have a very hard time handling it at speed. Be warned that rolling backwards into a wall will very easily pop the spoiler off, which ruins the grip of the rear tires. You're better off respawning at that point.

Now, for accessibility.

If you depend on visual cues to shift, then you may want to find a dashboard mod in the Repository to replace the analogue gauges. There are no vanilla shift lights for the Bolide, strangely enough. I suggest "Bolide Digidash Pack" because of its overall quality. If you don't want to download a new mod, then you can most likely drive with your headlights on, even if it's still daytime, since that will illuminate your gauge cluster and make it easier to read in the shade. If you do better with audio cues, then you're absolutely in luck. Don't be afraid to rev the engine while stationary to hear and associate with its high end noise: a rev limiter is equipped, so it won't damage the Bolide as long as you don't hold it down for an unnecessarily long time. most of us rev it a little for fun anyways

Lately a new mod has been released, which offers MUCH BETTER steering with a controller. I highly encourage you to use the Arcade Steering mod if you have trouble with the vanilla steering controls. Even if you don't have much trouble with the vanilla steering, the mod makes handling so much more comfortable. It's at least worth a try.

Let's drive the damn thing already!

Enough talking and staring. It's about time you got to properly drive this piece of art.

It's important that you drive the 320 GTR on a circuit. This car does not handle potholes and bumps and will most likely rip its bumper off at the sheer sight of a curb. I, again, suggest that you start with the West Coast USA circuit for its size and shape.

A couple of warnings before you get to driving. Some are refreshers and some are simply good advice:

• Never bottom out the throttle when first taking off or exiting corners. I cannot stress this enough.
  
• Lighten your pressure on the brakes and completely release the throttle when downshifting. If your brakes are being pressed too hard while braking, you will break traction.
  
• Be sure to manually shift up (if you're using a controller) to make sure you get the fastest shifts out of your transmission.
  
• When shifting up, it should go something like Clutch on > Shift up > Clutch release > Throttle.

(I know how I sound right here, but this will absolutely help you shift faster than the assistant. On top of that, once you get used to it, it becomes much more comfortable than letting go of everything and pressing the button to shift up. You will quickly get faster with practice.)

• When downshifting, you want to do so when you're only a quarter of the way up the RPM gauge or less. This ensures that you're able to gain speed again before having to shift back up. Downshifting when you're, for example, halfway up the gauge will leave you right next to the rev limiter. This forces you to shift up again, costing precious time.
  
• Shifting into first gear during a race is a waste of time because you accelerate through it so quickly. Stay in second gear and higher unless you're coming to a complete stop.
  
• Avoid completely pressing the brakes unless you're at your highest speed. When your brakes start to lock, let off until the tires stop squealing. Slowly let off as you continue decelerating.
  
• Let off the gas if you think you're starting to oversteer, and let your steering slowly recenter to prevent yourself from over-correcting into the wall. Don't completely release the throttle as to avoid snap oversteer.
  
• If your car is understeering in turns, however, then you need to slow down and reduce your steering angle to avoid running into a barrier. Do not hold your wheel in the far positions if you are understeering. Brake a little if you have to.
  
• The darkened tracks along circuits hint at the line you want to follow. Hit these at the right speed for the best lap times.
  
• You can corner faster than you think. Keep your speed above 50mph (~90km/h) to maintain the effect of your aerodynamics. Otherwise, you will lose grip when you need it most.
  
• Know the car's limits. Figure out what speed you can take turns at and how wide those turns can be. Even the 320 has its limits, just like every other car.
  
• DON'T HIT THE REV LIMITER WHEN YOU'RE RACING, YOU IMBECILE

For your first laps you want to take it easy. Be gentle with the throttle and perhaps stay around third gear and get comfortable with how the Bolide handles, as you should with every high-horsepower car. Even if you're already used to the car, make sure to get familiar with the circuit as well. You can't expect to hit WCUSA for a while and suddenly be able to take on the Nürburgring Nordschleife at full speed for the first time. By the end of the day, practice makes perfect, and once you can handle the Bolide, you should generally know what to expect from other high-power cars of similar nature.

End of guide

That's it.

It all boils down to practice in the end. Of course, you can watch videos and study racing techniques to further improve your driving, but it ultimately takes understanding both the track and how your car handles to be able to pull off good laps. If you have a poorly-performing computer, you will definitely want to either upgrade or lower your settings to get smoother and more consistent laps.

Be sure to do your research or get help if you plan on upgrading your computer to make sure you get your money's worth.

If you can't upgrade your computer due to prohibitive budgets, you can turn off Ambient Occlusion, lower Lighting to Low (not lowest because lowest looks like crap,) and turn off anti-aliasing, motion blur, and anisotropic filtering, as these are some of the highest-impacting graphics settings. You may also want to look into launch options, but be careful.
If all else fails, you can still use wireframe mode, I guess...

On a side-note, I'll be publishing a guide to building a respectable drift config soon. Keep an eye out for that since it will include alignment and suspension tuning tips, as well as a few more useful things.

[DudeMan]

thanks, good advice

[IcedRoad]

@DudeMan honestly rally is mostly managing grip vs slip on different surfaces while avoiding falling off of a cliff. learn how your car handles, its braking distance on different surfaces, and the range of speed where it stays manageable. if there's a lot of whoops and jumps, short shift and stay on throttle so your car constantly tries to pitch upwards to prevent nosedives into the dirt.

[DudeMan]

hey man i love this guide could you do one on the rally bolide (dirt)? or any of the rally cars you think is best? thx

[Mini Rawr]

yes.

[a.paluch1211]

is very good

[Reedtkfilms24]

simple fix to this modify the car past recognition in other words remove rear panels and bumper and add 15x14 wheels with massive drag slicks

[Polaria]

If you're using wheel, heel-toe is an enormous help when downshifting in the Bolide. It takes a while to master, but is both lots of fun and quite fast.

[username]

i am reading allat 😂😂😂😂😂💪

[IcedRoad]

sad truth

[03grand]

i read this entire thing thinking it would help me, only to realise im gonna forget all of this in 10 minutes