A general guide for beginners in multiplayer

A text guide for multiplayer players, analyzing the basics and units. This is a translation of my Russian guide. Some moments may not be translated very accurately, if anything, ask questions, I can clarify some things.

For whom, how and why

In this guide, I will present a set of knowledge of different levels, useful for both novice players and for some intermediate ones.

If you are a beginner, read the manual sequentially, move on to the next block when mastering the previous one. Only by combining and ordering all the information received in the blocks will it be possible to use the new knowledge, as I assumed.

Blocks related to units can be viewed in isolation from the rest only for general reference. Dry characteristics separated from the very essence of the manual will be practically useless.

My experience is 100 hours played in multiplayer, as well as several thousand hours in other games of the "Men of War" series with a variety of mods and without.

Of course, in the practical part, I may be wrong in something, because I am based on my experience. However, I consider theory to be an important and correct part of this guide.

Theoretical basis

I will highlight several main factors that are applicable not only for GoH, but also for other games from the series MoW. These things are assembled in battle and fit in the mind by themselves, processed and implemented in seconds, may seem obvious to someone. However, they really need to be known.

- Knowledge of the capabilities of guns and tanks

Until you don't learn whom, how, at what distance and with what projectiles it penetrates (And what armor at what distance what projectiles it holds) - there will be problems. If you are fond of military history, then it will be easier for you, because the real Tactical and technical characteristics has been transferred relatively well, except for some moments. I will write down some features in the unit block, but the rest will have to be studied by yourself.

- Plan

You must have an initial plan - an ideal picture of your flank, a queue for purchasing units. And of course it will be supplemented, changed ...
You also need to understand - you play for late game, will it be profitable, or maybe you need to push to win until a late stage. (How to understand it - in another block).

You need to anticipate the enemy's plans, prepare for counteraction in advance, know exactly what you need, what will work, and what will work the other way around. There is no need to mindlessly call any tanks or cannons, about this we talk in next paragraph.

- Resource management

Stemming from the previous and almost the most important point. In this game, the number of points for a fight is limited - it is set in the lobby, and is gained during the game. Therefore, they should be spent with extreme caution and with the expectation of the whole game.
When calling any gun or tank, you need to ask yourself: Why do I need this? Does it make sense to wait and take something better for the game in the future? If I spend so many resources now, what means will I (and will I?) operate in a late game?

In the attached picture, we are interested in the first and third lines, as well as additional values to the right of the first: +0.0 and +0.5.

The first - is the increase in basic points, it cannot be affected in any way. At the moment when you will be given the number of points planned for the game, it will end.

The second - is the increase in points, depending on the number of CP. If you have more than 80 CP, the increase will be 0.3. From 50 to 80 - 0.5. To 50 - 1.0.

Therefore, ideally, keep up to 50 points, or at least up to 80. How can this be done? It's very simple - call officer, he lowers the number of CP by 20, and is also very useful in itself.

Doctrine points are separate and are not restored in any way. Let's talk about their use separately in next topics.

- Sense of game and inaction

In any strategy, you can not do nothing - every second should be spent usefully. While there is no fighting at your point, dig in, dig not one trench but several. Deploy infantry, demolish potential enemy shelters near your positions. If everything is completely calm - grope the enemy's defense, feel the slack - attack. If this is not possible, help your allies in any way you can. You can't just sit and do nothing, you can't!

- Game mechanics

The targeting of guns, the highliting of artillery on the minimap, the sounds of venchiles and infantry through the fog of war, throwing grenades through F1, hot keys, explosives in tanks, possibility of reparing , the placement of mines through shift key, double clicks - this is not all, but it is also very desirable to know this.

Having put this in mind, we move on.

Use of tanks, guns, infantry

For everything and everything: use keyboard shortcuts. For turns, get up / lie down, unfold / fold the carriage, leave the arty/tank, disperse the squad, shelling the zone.

Infantry:
- Be sure to put them in positions
- If there are no profitable shelters, lie down
- Use expensive squads carefully and wisely
- Dig trenches and reserve positions in a calm environment
- Do not create accumulation of soldiers in any case
- Always spread out squads
- In the attack, also try to divide the squad, send submachine gunners closer, leave machine gunners to cover
- Know the armament of the squad
- Lie down with infantry during shelling or withdraw from the zone
- Keep important infantrymen with a grenade/panzerfaust/at gun in the right place
- Call an officers for decrace CP
- You can throw a zone by selecting a squad and pressing a grenade throw through F1 a bunch of times, but sometimes it works crookedly
- Smoke grenades are helpful
- DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY WITH DIRECT CONTROL
- The delay of grenades can be reduced by holding the LMB when throwing
- Use the officer's binoculars for reconnaissance, especially to highlight important targets for tanks/self-propelled guns/cannons


Anti-tank guns, anti-aircraft guns:
- By all means avoid premature detection
- Know the capabilities of the cannon and its shells
- Do not keep it in a prominent place and front
- Look for advantageous positions BEHIND your infantry
- Ideally hold a truck for fast movement
- Change positions (But not during a firefight)
- If you feel that you are not penetrating, if you have received damage, attach the gun to the truck and retreat, replenish the crew and repair


Machine guns:
- Avoid location near houses and natural shelters
- Maxim machine gun and MG can be well inserted into an infantry trench
- Dig in through the special actions (only on German machine guns)
- If the enemy infantry does not advance, drag mg to a reserve covered position

Artillery:
- Heard the sound of an airplane - change positions, shout "air" or write to the chat
- Supply crates are useless, buy a supply truck
- Keep the truck nearby and make sure you can quickly hook the gun and change position
- When the enemy's artillery does not appear by doctrine, start counter-battery fire. Two shots of target-shooting
- When returning fire, after the second shot of the enemy - change the position
- Doctrinal artillery will counter conventional
- Even if you are not being shot at, change your position every few minutes
- Before starting counter-battery fire, it is advisable to get closer
- Watch the map, enemy artillery is marked when shots are fired
- Make sure that there are no trees in front of the rocket artillery

Tanks:
- Heard the sound of an airplane - change positions, shout "air" or write to the chat
- Not needed in defense (Except for IS-2, KV-1, Kingl Tiger, Jagdpanter, SU-152/122)
- Know the capabilities of armor and weapons
- Do not approach enemy positions closer than 50-70 meters (Panzerfaust, shreks)
- Especially not to drive closer than 15
- Use for attack only after determining the anti-tank capabilities of the enemy
- If the track is damaged, throw smoke grenades, try to restore
- Save experienced crews and transfer them to other tanks
- To occupy advantageous positions on the ground
- Must have infantry cover
- In most cases, it can be repaired
- Try not to leave trophies

Preparation for battle and general strategy

Preparation for the game begins from the lobby itself - you see the number of players, choose the doctrine (which will be discussed later), see which your allies choose. You can also see which card and what is equally important - the number of victory points. Usually it is 1000/1300/1500.

To begin with, communication. Try to set it up before the start. The denser and more active it is, the better. Ideally - voice. However, you can limit yourself to chat. The most important thing is to distribute the flanks and ask for help/help at critical moments.

If the coordination of the team is high, then determine the pace of the game, whether you want to go into a late game, or crush the opponent. The last option is implemented only with confidence in its capabilities, and only if the number of victory points does not exceed 1000. Otherwise, you will be exhausted, and at some moment the enemy will seize the initiative.

"Pressure" consists in constant attacks, the desire to capture more points to get points. Attack with infantry, insure it with anti-aircraft guns or light guns, cling to capture zones, correctly implement special units, without counting on a late game. This can make the enemy panic, and make him do the wrong decisions.

A quieter option, which is mainly implemented, is to capture the "minimum" to accumulate victory points, and this is the advantage of one point and holding it. Having one point more than the opponent, you are already gradually winning, but rather slowly. This is fraught with the fact that the game can go to late stage, when the enemy will be able to have good artillery, serious tanks and break your defenses. The listed things are certainly not ultimate but they require a large (depending on the experience of the enemy) amount of effort to counteract.

Therefore, if the enemy is not active, you should take the initiative, and if possible, attack further to accelerate the victory.

However, there is an important nuance - the loss of expensive units takes away victory points. And if the number of victory points reaches zero, the team will lose. This feature can be used!

Doctrine as an instrument of victory

There are different doctrines - some are stronger, some are weaker. I will not analyze each one, but just tell you which doctrinal units of the 3rd stage can change the course of the game.

I have mentioned the late game and perspective more than once. From the very beginning, you should open the last tab and understand how you will implement such a valuable resource. Ideally, to know how the allies will manage this.

If you are pushing, you feel that you can win until the late stage - realize the points without counting on the third stage.

But most of the games just come to the moment when the parties use their trump cards for decisive action.

The balance of the game is rather "clumsy" in terms of doctrines, especially when playing at the "middle" stage of the war (41-43). So the loss of an expensive trump card can be regarded as a big step towards defeat.

The units will be painted in separate blocks.

Important doctrine units "Mid war"

Germans

SIG 33b - have very powerful HE that deals with any tank and especially infantry. Easy flatness when shooting gives a clear advantage, but the armor is very lousy.

Pz. 751 (Kv-1) - is a captured KV with a good German cannon mounted on it. Good armor is vulnerable only to ZiS-2, SU-100Y, sometimes F-22 and T-34-57.

The signalman is for clearing positions, it is very easy to lose, can reduce the game to some kind of horror. In fact, it is better not to use it.

8.8 Flak - countering absolutely any enemy tank, one of the few ways to destroy the KV-2.

2 sFH18 - two powerful artillery guns. A very strong unit. We counter-battery enemy artillery with two guns, and then destroy defensive positions.

21-cm Morser - occasionally you can take it for counter-battery shooting, but 2 sFH18 will be much better.

An airstrike is a very important thing. Use exclusively against valuable enemy units: by immobilized enemy tanks (KV-2, KV-1, SU-100Y) or enemy artillery.

15-cm Nebelwerfer - rocket artillery, the most ineffective in the game, but we don't have better.

Pz.Vl Tiger - at an early stage is afraid only of super-heavy artillery, SU-100Y, airstrikes and sometimes ZiS-2 or KV-2.

Soviets

F-22 - breaks all enemy tanks, and if you're lucky enough, even a Tiger

2KV-1 - the Germans have the ability to knock out the KV-1 only with the help of a doctrinal Tiger, Pak-40, cumulative projectiles that hit at a short distance and a doctrinal Flak. If you somehow knocked out the Tiger and the Flak, then it will not be difficult to destroy some Pak-40. As soon as the ATgunss are destroyed, you can call and push hard.

SU-100Y - is our savior from Tigers. Call only if it appears.

85mm 52-k - can fight with all enemy tanks easy, sometimes against a Tiger.

Howitzers and heavy mortars do not need to be introduced, I hope.

The airstrike is similar to the German one - only on important, immobilized targets.

Katyusha is a direct path to victory. Can damage or even destroy enemy tanks. Perfectly cleans the point. They fire, you immediately attack from the prepared starting positions

KV-2 - is a very strong unit. Excellent cannon with light arc fire, as well as powerful armor. If you find a good position, you can inflict incredible damage.

Singled out the M-42 as an excellent cannon that penetrates everything except tigers.

Important doctrine units "Late war"

The balance at this stage of the game is more agile. At this stage of the war, it is important to have one person with an airstrike.

Germans

Panther/Tiger Ace - saves you a lot of resources, but it is the "weakest of the strongest" special unit.

Jagpanter - in skillful hands, it outplays the IS-2 and SU-152, but it is not equal to the SU-100. In general, if you have a good position for one self-propelled gun, it makes sense to take it.

Royal Tiger - do not show to enemy the sides and cheeks of the tower. Do not drive close to enemy positions. Try to fix the track as soon as possible if it is knocked down. If you don't know why you need it, don't take it.

15/30 cm nebelwerfers, artillery and airstrikes - similar to "Mid war". But I repeat - you need to have units in advance to attack after the rocket strike.

Ferdinand - the only downside is that it is a self-propelled gun. An excellent gun will allow you to cope with the IS-2, but you need to be very careful.

Singled out a mountain cannon - a universal and moderately good gun with arc shooting and cumulative, which allows you to fight with tanks at an early (and sometimes late) stage.

Soviets

SU-100/122 ISU-152 - are very powerful anti-tank self-propelled guns. They should be afraid of the Royal Tiger. However, in the right hands, he is not a hindrance.

IS-2 - great gun, good frontal armor. A great tank, if there is one in the doctrine, we will definitely go out into it.

BS-3 is a heavy anti-tank gun with an armored car for transportation. There is nothing better than her from the ATguns in the game.

Separately, singled out the M-43 - an analogue of the German mountain gun.

Also two T-34-85 - we get good tanks and a detachment of infantry for a very good price (If converted into regular points, it's about 1,700), and we still have as many as 60 doctrine points.

The beginning of battle

It depends on the map and the number of players, which forces will be confronted on the flanks. In most cases, you will encounter one player on your flank, occasionally, in 4 vs 4 mode, two will pile on you.

I will introduce the concepts of points:

The central one is sometimes the hottest and depends on the flanks. It's better to have an experienced player there.

Flanking-forward is a common point that can be located in different ways: it is more profitable for you or your opponent, and this should be taken into account. However, the fact is that in almost all cases it needs to be captured and held.

Home point that is not unlike the previous ones on the front line. Most likely, no attacks will be made on it until the flank or center is pushed through, so from the start you can leave one man there or skip it altogether, since we need to hurry to the disputed points. The main thing is not to forget to come back.

Also in 4x4 mode, one player can take the role of support - buy an armored vehicle at the beginning of the game, help at points, send reinforcements to problem areas.

The starts can be different - with a plan for attacking deeper enemy points, for pushing through any flank due to the more advantageous location of the same points, or completely standard. For beginners, it is better to choose the latter option - to go to your flank and your front point.

An important point is to memorize the sounds of the Soviet and German truck, and then at the beginning of the game point the camera at the spawn of the enemy and listen. Through the fog of war, you can hear the enemy. If you hear the sounds of vehicles that do not sounds like trucks, then there is an armored vehicle, and you need to understand where it is moving, as well as warn the allies. If he is coming to you, it makes sense to buy a AT shooter, or ask a support player to help.

Some maps are quite large, so don't be stingy and order a truck, and then a detachment of infantry (not scouts / conscripts in any case), put them in it and let them go to the point.

The truck is a useful thing, after unloading the infantry, it must be driven to the spawn. By the way, they can also capture the missed home point.

If you arrived at the position earlier, then half the job is done. We have very little time to arrange the soldiers, start digging trenches. Having destroyed or discarded the first enemy detachment, we already have an excellent advantage.

Plan defense

Defense in GOH multiplayer is the most profitable type of combat, but this does not mean that it is easy. It is worth knowing that you are in a mirror position in terms of resources, this will help you anticipate and understand approximately how many resources the enemy has.

We defeated the enemy in a rearguard action. What's next? It is not worth developing an offensive - the next point will be "home" for the enemy, we need to get to it for a long time, divide the forces into an attack and cover the newly captured point. At an early stage, if we are not playing for a quick victory, we first need to take care of protecting the newly captured point. What to defend against? From infantry, tanks and artillery fire.

- Infantry

With a flat, well-shot terrain, enemy infantry attacks can be repelled with small forces, because we have the advantage of the defenders. And in order to have it, equip the positions properly.

If the battle takes place in conditions of urban combat or hilly terrain, you will have to conduct close combat, throw grenades, run away from them. The outcome of such a confrontation depends on your microcontrol skills. The enemy will try to get to your positions through courtyards, destroyed workshops, hills, beams.

You must have some kind of reserve, a detachment or several fighters who, with losses, will take the place of the fallen. It makes sense to call a machine gun or anti-aircraft gun, but the latter will bring down the pace.

- Tanks

Sooner or later it will appear. Usually I somehow try to endure and hope that I will have time to save up for a good gun (ZiS-3/2 or Pak-40) to protect my point from almost any tanks. However, sometimes you have to buy a AT-gun or a lighter gun for protection. The anti-aircraft gun can also provide protection for the first time, until you get the opportunity to purchase a better gun.



- Mortar

Nasty stuff. It is possible to act very risky - at the first shot to try to break through with infantry, since the 240 points spent bring down the pace, and it is likely that the cover of the mortar will be weak.

If there is already a serious gun, try to roll out to a good position and destroy it with direct fire (while possibly destroying the shelter)

Another option is to order a fast light tank or armored vehicle and then break through and crush the enemy mortar.

You can join the artillery fight and order your mortar, but it will be a duel of accidents.

With light howitzers , we act in the same way, or try to counter-fire with good gun like ZiS or PaK.


That is, our "ideal plan" of defense is to get into a good cannon that cuts off the possibility of attacking our point with tanks, destroy the advancing infantry and the mortars that bother us.
The enemy can withdraw the cannon - then you will also have to engage in a duel. Sometimes you can shoot not with HE but with armor-piercing shells - their range is longer, and they can slightly damage the gun so that you can finish it off later.

What's next?

If you feel that the enemy is weaker than you in terms of experience, has suffered heavy losses and the point closest to you is not too close to the enemy spawn (and, accordingly, not too far from you) - attack, do not forget to leave a barrier at your point.

If the enemy has gone into a blind defense - strengthen your point with mines, start helping an ally.

If the enemy constantly makes attempts to capture point, counteract accordingly.

If you lose a point, look at the map. If the loss of positions is not critical, and you have a plan for a late game (Katyusha or Nebelwerfer. Perhaps IS-2-44 or KT) you can surrender a point, but be sure to protect the next one, as well as the flank of your central ally, and also do not dare to sit still if the enemy does not advance further - help your allies.

If surrender is unacceptable, ask for the help of an ally on the flank, an ally for support. Cling, attack (But wisely!) - the main thing is to disturb the enemy and delay his forces.

Plan attack

If the rearguard action is lost, it is certainly bad, but not critical. Now your main task is not to let the enemy gain a foothold.

If you are sure that there are no anti-tankers, you can win back through an armored vehicle or a light tank. However, the Germans in the grenadier squad have a barrel anti-tank grenade that hits at 60 meters, this is not to mention the fausts. In this case, either we keep our distance, or we maneuver and don't stop even for a second.

Do not attack head-on - go around from the flanks, try to attack from an unexpected side.

If the enemy's advantage in the infantry is not too strong - we enter into an infantry battle, we try to outplay enemy.

You can take a machine gun - gradually advancing it, we will clamp the enemy infantry.

In theory, guns or anti-aircraft guns will also work - they will provide anti-tank defense for the near future and are able to effectively knock out infantry.

Some doctrinal units at an early stage can help to win back the advantage of an unsecured opponent.

Did it work? We turn to the defense, you know the procedure for this.

It didn't work out and the enemy gained a foothold?
We dig in on the available positions - the most profitable and closest to the enemy. We conduct continuous attacks, we do not allow the enemy to act freely, we try to seize the fire advantage, we move as close as possible, using all the same methods.

If you feel that you can't at all - we go into a blind defense, take care of the flank of the central player, strengthen the remaining point. Further - in no case are we inactive, we feel the enemy, we disturb him, we delay forces. If it is too unprofitable, we help our allies.

In the future, the point can be helped to captured with the comrades, or you yourself - with the help of rocket artillery, doctrinal (and not so) tanks or forces accumulated for a strike.

German units

Let's agree like this - if I write that the gun penetrates the tank, I mean that it penetrates the armor at an average distance and under the condition of shooting at the right places. If I did not write that the gun penetrates any tank, this does not mean that it is impossible to break through.

V - unit for the realization of a certain goal is good
X - I think it 's not worth calling
! - situational unit
? - I do not have enough practical experience to attribute this unit to any of the categories, or I just doubt it

I think so - if you are on the defensive, tanks will only be needed in late to counter serious enemy tanks. Attacks by armored vehicles and tanks can be carried out only after making sure that there is no enemy AT.

As for the expensive infantry, you need to call and use it carefully, with special attention. Either competently place them in good places in defense, or attack with confidence in their abilities.

All infantry is considered solely on their fighting qualities!

Infantry mid

Penals - I don't use them. In theory, they can serve as reconnaissance by combat.

The Aufklarers are not. We don't need an incomplete squad that can't dig in.

Shooters and heavy shooters are our main combat units. The latter have two machine guns, which is great for defense.

Sappers - for assault in close combat and rough terrain. Explosive packs, a flamethrower, a lot of different grenades.

Veteran shooters - are a squad with a good shooting skill, you should not send them to hell.

"Great Germany" is very rare, with the advantage and the desire to control something cool.

Infatry late

Fusiliers/Aufklarers are similar to the mid stage.

Grenadiers - now have a barrel grenade that can be used both against infantry and HEAT against light tanks. It is better to take the shooter with the board to a safe place.

Panzergrenadiers - Fausts, two machine guns.

Jaegers - are well-trained infantry, put on the defensive, don't just lose.

Alpinists, fusiliers - very well-trained infantry, good weapons. Do not send to hell, dispose carefully.

The squad for 389 Reichsmarks is purely in the mood, but it's still better not to.

Guns

MG-34/42 - if you are ready to follow him, you have an initial advantage in the infantry. Place in foxholes or dig in.

2-cm anti-aircraft gun - the death for infantry, has the ability to harm light guns and tanks.

3.7 pak - quickly loses relevance, a little more powerful than anti-aircraft guns.

5-cm pak-38 - if there is an opportunity to suffer up to Pak-40 - it is better not to take, or choose le LG as slightly weaker in terms of anti-tank defense but the best in anti-personnel.

Pak-40 - must have.

7.5 LG - a serious and annoying weapon capable of fighting light and sometimes even medium tanks.

Mortar - nerfed, take if the terrain is very good.

Howitzer - counter mortars, guns, accumulations of infantry. Loses relevance if doctrinal artillery appears (It does not matter - its own or enemy)

Tanks mid

I will be brief - Pz.1 is needed to rush and crush mortars. The rest of the tanks are penetrated by most of the guns (and if you take into account the presence of PTRD/s), are too slow and have not the best weapons. Marked with a question - occasionally, if a tank is absolutely needed.


Pz.4 F1/F2 - the first has a good land mine with light flooring, counter-anti-aircraft guns, light and sometimes medium tanks, light guns, machine guns and infantry. F2 is a counter or is an equal rival for the T-34, if you're lucky, you can cope with the KV-1.

StuG - very rarely, if the mood allows.

Tanks late

Pz.lll Ausf N is a tank with a good HE cannon. If we have a problems with the m-42, it's better to wait.


Pz.lV H - if you need a medium tank unbearably, you can take it. Before the appearance of IS-1/2, SU-152 and other horror stories may have time to be realized.

Tigers/Panthers - lose relevance when the IS-2 / SU-152 appears. They may try to snap back, but they need to make more efforts. They are also in the doctrines - it is better to save the usual points.

StuG/H- according to mood, but also happen in doctrines. However, they are not worth it.

Support venchiles
Opel - deliver infantry to the point before the enemy. Then drag the guns to the point.

Sd.Kfz 221 - crush mortars.

Sd.Kfz 231 and a truck with an anti-aircraft gun - it can make a rustle in skillful hands, but it is possible without them.

Supply truck - when artillery appears, you need to take it to replenish shells and transport it.

Engineering - if you plan to totally protect the point.

Soviet units

V - unit for the realization of a certain goal is good
X - I think it 's not worth calling
! - situational unit
? - I do not have enough practical experience to attribute this unit to any of the categories, or I just doubt it


As for the expensive infantry, you need to call and use it carefully, with special attention. Either competently place them in good places in defense, or attack with confidence in their abilities.

All infantry is considered solely on their fighting qualities!

Infatry mid

Conscripts - it's better not to take them. If you need to go to the reconnaissance battle - you can.

Partisans/scouts - no.

The regular squad (rifles) - are the main combat unit. There are PPSH, machine gun, grenades.

AT gunners squad - except to distribute to allies. Why do we need 3 AT gunners?..

The paratroopers are a well-armed detachment with SVT, AVT, submachine guns and two machine guns. Lots of grenades.

Marines - armed with rifles, two machine guns, a submachine gun.

Infatry late

Everything is similar to the mid, but submachine gunners are being added (I hope there is no need to explain) and guards, improved versions of rifle and submachinegunners detachments.

Marine Guards - two fausts, several PPSH, one machine gun, automatic and simple rifles, a lot of grenades, an excellent skill.

Guns mid

Maxim - if the terrain and situation allow.

25-mm anti-aircraft gun - will allow you to drive away infantry and light equipment of the enemy until a serious weapon appears.

The M-37 is a weak, rapidly losing relevance gun.

ZiS-3 - good land mine, knocks out all enemy tanks except the Tiger and the captured KV.

ZiS-2 - weak land mine, knocks out all enemy tanks, including Tiger and KV.

The 76 mm regimental gun - analogue of the German watering can, but it does not have a good cumulative effect, it is useless against tanks (with rare exceptions)

A mortar is a dubious thing, get only if have good postiton.

Howitzer - to knock out mortars, guns, loses relevance when the doctrine of art appears.

Guns late

SG-43 is slightly better than Maxim.

DSHK - punches light venchiles and some tanks at medium distances, it is better to take the first version and control it well.

45-MM M42 is an excellent marksmanship, it penetrates many medium and especially light tanks, it lays HE well on infantry. A great option when we wait ZiS-2.

Tanks mid

Honestly, it's better not to take anything... But:

KV-1 - if you are sure that there is no Pak-40/Tiger/Flak. It's hard to counter it, they are afraid of only these things and a little pz.4 with a long gun. It's better to keep your distance.

BT-7 - crush mortars, possibly break through to artillery.

T-40 - it is possible to drive away infantry.

Tanks late

T-70 - good for fighting breaking through light equipment.

T-34-85 - in case of spam by the enemy Pz.lll/IV.

IS-2 - powerful cannon, medium armor. Destroys all enemy tanks for ordinary points, is afraid only of the King Tiger, Ferdinand, a little jagpanter and Tiger Ace, Pak-40 in board and Flak 8.8. With a good hands - is not afraid of anyone.

SU-152 - powerful cannon, good for firing positions, destroying tanks before the appearance of tanks from doctrines.

The rest of the equipment has either armor that is too irrelevant for fighting, or a weak cannon, or a better analogue.

Support venchiles

ZiS-5 - to carry infantry, then guns.

T-27 - in order to more conveniently turn and direct artillery, as well as be able to shoot back. Basically, it's not worth taking.

A truck with an anti-aircraft gun - with good control, it can bring a some things, but it is very fragile.

BA-20, in Late BA-64 - to crush mortars.

Supply truck - to carry and supply artillery.

Engineering - to strengthen the point very much.

In total

Some venchiles marked with red crosses may be useful. However, in the hands of a skilled player, almost any unit contributes enough impact.

All of the above is my personal experience. I played against different players - good and bad. Your experience may be strikingly different from mine. Perhaps your practice is better than mine. Write to me in private messages or discord (Nekoro #9149) - describe your point of view, maybe I will add alternative options to the guide.

Each game can put you in a variety of situations.

Improve general skills, microcontrol. Look for joints in enemy defenses, detours. Send saboteurs to the flanks of the map and do not forget to close them. Do not shoot beyond the range planned by the developers. Learn to throw grenades. Communicate. Try new tactics. Don't waste resources. Help ur allies and, if necessary, ask for help yourself. Find teammates to play on the same team. Try bold attacks, use unexpected maneuvers. Play multiplayer!

[[BGS] Nekoro]

have a nice day

[No Guts No Glory]

Comparing infantry only by its fighting power is pure bullshit lol.

Not to mention that role of an officer with binos is different from scouts. Binos are insane for spotting on one very small place, for example if you need enemy arty spotted or enemy dug out for your precise infantry gun strikes.

Scouts are when you need to have constantly spotted whole fucking flank.

[[BGS] Nekoro]

oh mann, this guide is made for a ppl to read carefully and draw conclusions. how good that you ignored 3 mentions of the officer, in one of which I mentioned binoculars. infatry units compared only by fighting power

[No Guts No Glory]

Ngl, its hard to take this guide seriously when it literally tells you to play blind by not picking Aufklarers lmao.

Its so "nice" getting wasted by guns, tanks in fog you could have spotted with proper scout, just like getting flanked by infantry, which again could be prevented via single scout.

Yes, they arent really main fighting force, but they shouldnt be used as such. You arent paying for dakka, you are paying for stealth and spotting range, which they have single handedly best of all MP units.

[noob retarded]

This game blows and is buggy af and the devs barely help to fix it

[[BGS] Nekoro]

Yes, HE shells can splash damage to yours MGs and gund. And throw grenades or throw flame if he had good cover with buildings and etc

[F.U.D.F.]

because opponent can target it with a field gun and do splash damage.

[Darth Porgus]

Why should I avoid the following for Machine guns:
- Avoid location near houses and natural shelters
?

[noob retarded]

your explanation for CP and MP didnt really make sense to me

[SlappySalamander]

very helpful, hope you go on write up a guide for the early war units and Finland too!