STUNT LIKE A PRO

The purpose of this guide is to unlock the full potential of motorcycles in GTA Online and create a crew of roofjumpers. If for some reason a normal ride does not suit you - please let me know.
For everyone else who just walked by: if you don’t take it as seriously as I do, but still want to get the most out of your “iron horse” and start using it for its intended purpose - the following information will be useful to you.

Introduction

In order to understand what is at stake, I will show you what roofjumps actually are and what needs to be done to implement them. The description below will provide comprehensive information on the technique of performing these jumps, as well as the motorcycles that you will need. Especially for this guide, I prepared a video so that you understand the whole point from the very beginning. Using this videos as example, we will analyze all the features of jumping.

NOTE: Determining the difficulty of stunts may not seem entirely fair. A stunt from an easy segment may seem difficult, and vice versa - in a difficult segment there will be an easy jump. Not always the more spectacular and "cool" stunt is technically more complex. Here you have to take into account many hidden nuances that are invisible on the video. To feel them - you need to try it yourself. So I've ranked these stunts in this order based on my OWN subjective experience. This experience will obviously be different from person to person.

Plus, with the advent of Shinobi, many tricks have become easier.

1. Pro Level Stuns

2. Hard level stunts

3. Advanced level stunts

4. Easy Stunts

Precautionary Measures

Before diving into this swamp, you should take some precautions! It will be very sad if the bones in your fingers begin to crackle and crumble on the keyboard before you get carpal tunnel syndrome while trying to jump onto the next roof. To prevent this, stock up on calcium and take as needed! If you are a human, then you will need a lot of energy. To constantly maintain it at a high level, eat as much food with high content of carbohydrates. If you are a plant, then you have to rely only on photosynthesis. Unfortunately, the sun does not always shine and not everywhere, so think a hundred times if you have enough strength for all this. Since most of the time your nerves will be at the limit, you will somehow have to control yourself. Leave sedatives and other relaxants for posers who sit in the saddle only on weekends and pretended to be bikers. The only thing left for us is to redirect the overwhelming rage into the right direction, making it our motivation. The easiest way to keep yourself in this state is to use suitable background music. Something aggressive and primitive. Some TRVE KVLT Black Metal. Yeah!

After reaching the desired state, we can proceed to what we all gathered here for.

"This is war huh wow!
AARARARAR
RARARAAA
ARARARAAAA
RAAAAAAAAA"

First step: Know your limits

Everyone who dares to embark on this path will face many difficulties. How far you can go depends primarily on what kind of person you are. If you are ready for constant tests of yourself for strength - then I categorically welcome you. If you are ready to go on a journey that does not have a final destination, since you will be in constant self-development, with each tomorrow you will become better than you were yesterday. No matter how far you go, your horizon will always have a boundless road ahead, and God only knows what awaits you there in the distance. If you are ready to play this game, then in the end a worthy reward will await you.

morituri te salutant

Second step: Accept your Way

"Im going to give YOU the keys to the Lamborghini" © MAB

So, you still decided to test yourself and open the Pandora's box to your misfortune. Okay ...
The first thing you need to do is to get a motorcycle club. Give him a name. Become his president. And if you're really lucky, find people who will be ready to join it. And if they are ready to do the same thing as you ... Although no, it sounds too fantastic. Most likely you will ride alone. But still, if such people are found - make them see the light that you bring to them. Turn them to your faith and return them to the true path.
But seriously, traveling with a partner is much more interesting and productive. It is always nice to see how a few people are doing what they love. It is one thing when you see how you are getting better, and quite another when you see it in each other. A view from the side can always pay attention to the mistakes that you make and do not notice. Ehh, Im becoming too soft. Oh yes! The only thing that matters is continuous self-improvement. And to achieve it alone is more difficult than with a group of people. Therefore! You just use each other! No feelings, emotions or other heresies. Just a guy love between two (or more) guys. No more, no less. Because feelings are g a y. Period.

So, now you own a motorcycle club. What do you need to do next? First: you need the building itself only in order to be able to become president. You do not need to upgrade it, buy a business for the production of goods and sales. There are other, much better ways to make money.
The only thing you need is the ability to spawn motorcycles through the context menu. No delays, anytime, anywhere. You unsuccessfully made a jump, as a result of which your motorcycle flew to the roof, and you like a fool smashed your face against the wall - just spawn the motorcycle and pretend that there was nothing. Did you break your iron horse into the trash, or did the valiant servants of the law take it from you? Just respawn. It is important to know that you can spawn any motorcycle, even one that is in the garage and not in your club. And remember - dont buy expensive MC building. Buy a cheapest one and save money on bikes. I got an MC building in Sandy Shores, without anything inside, without business and other stuff. Just a concrete box.

Third Step: The Holy Trinity

To do jumps you need bikes, that obvious. So you need get at least one and upgrade it!
These are my top 3 stunt bikes :

[Hakuchou aka Sledgehammer]

It is the fastest two-wheeled bike in the game. At the direct distance, he will tear to pieces any super car already at the start, or at the middle of the distance, as it has the highest maximum speed, including the new F1 cars, if they do not use boost. The maximum speed that I managed to develop is 285 kmh or 177 mph. This makes it the best bike for the hardest and longest jumps. For a person without training, he will seem difficult and poorly controlled, which is likely to serve as a refusal to control this bike in the future. Therefore, the bike is recommended for use for a person with at least an average level of training, since in this case the potential of the bike will be fully understood and revealed. If you nevertheless decided to start with it, then after mastering it, all the other bikes and techniques for using them will not cause you any difficulties.
Advantages: Top speed. Good and long lasted controlled wheelie. Using all jumping techniques that are described below in full.
Disadvantages: Not good for newcomers. Heavy weight. When changing to another bike it will be difficult to "rebuild". Addictive that is not treated.

[BF400 aka Butterfly]

It is the most versatile bike in the game with the widest range of applications due to its design and ease of management. It can develop very good speed and stand on the rear wheel at almost any moment. This makes it an ideal bike for both long jumps and mid-range jumps.It is very easy to learn and is the best representation of all the jumping techniques in the game. Roughly speaking, how and where you will jump is limited only by your perverted imagination.
Advantages: Very jumpy. Almost unlimited wheelie. Low weight. Perfect for "tactical" roof-to-roof jump method. Easy to control and best choice for newbies. Essentially the only bike without disadvantages.
Disadvantages: Hard to reach highest roofs. But actually you can.
There is some typical BF400 jumps

[Ruffian aka Hybrid]

As you can see in the title, Ruffian is a good mixture between Hakuchou and BF400. Thats mean it can reach high areas almost as Hakuchou and be very good controlled as BF400. It is a "transit point" between those two bikes. It will help you bring lightness and accuracy to the jumps that you learned to do on the BF400, and prepare you for the difficult challenges that await you at Hakuchou.
Advantages: Very friendly for newcomers. Easy to control and possibility to perform wheelie on maximum speed. A kind of middle ground, but it smoothly flows into its main disadvantage.
Disadvantages: Being a hybrid between the other two, it can quickly become a passing bike, which you will stop using as unnecessary, since the best that it can offer you is already embodied in its best form in the other two bikes.

This trinity will go hand in hand with you on your difficult path. So blow off dust particles from them and do not let stand idle in the garage.

But in addition to these three, there are three more bikes in the game that are worth paying attention to.I will start with the most important of them, which is perhaps undeservedly deprived of attention and did not fall into mine Top 3.

[Bati 801]

For many, this bike was the first, and remains the main jumping bike to this day. It surpasses Ruffian in its characteristics and is a bit short of Hakuchou. It has good speed and does not require special skills in mastering. In some cases, it can even surpass the height and range of jumps in comparison with Hakuchou. But personally, this bike did not work out for me. After 10 minutes of riding it, I want to delete the game. The advantage of this bike is that it is able to reveal all the jumping techniques that I talked about, and is a good stunt bike along with the rest. I will not speak about the weaknesses of this bike, which are based on my personal hostility, because it will be subjective and unscientific.

[Manchez]

Younger brother of BF400. The main feature of this bike is the possibility of continuous movement on the rear wheel. You can go around the whole map on !!!constant!!! wheelie.
In the city, he behaves somewhat differently. Firstly, he can not get on the rear wheel when you have already much accelerated, but can stand on it almost instantly at startup, while not falling over. This way you drive from point A to point B on the rear wheel all the time. It should be noted that during the wheelie, the bike maintains excellent road behavior, so that you will not have problems when aiming at a wall or curb. Unfortunately, this feature sharply limits the area of its application, reducing it to the usual roof parkour. Nevertheless, you can conquer low buildings and climb into hard-to-reach places. This bike is perfect for motorcycle trial and lovers of masochistic riding.

[Gargoyle]

Unexpected buttsex awaits you with this bike. As it turned out, the standard version of this bike has the ability to get on the rear wheel no worse than those above. Together with the monstrous speed that this thing develops + the ability to convert to deathbike (with boost and hydraulic jump) you get a fun-build that will give you over9000 points of pleasure. I’ll say right away that the wheelie does not last as long as the others, and even more so at high speed you won’t do it. BUT! This bike can release a stream of fire that will carry you into the stratosphere. Given this, acceleration should be taken small so that it is possible to lift the wheel as high as possible, and then turn on the flamethrower! You should not expect serious results, and even more use this bike as one of the main or training ones. His task is to jump on the roofs in the most difficult and brain-bearing way with the subsequent opportunity to arrange a kosher slaughterhouse there. After all, among other things, you can lighten it with two machine guns.

Sport Bikes

This section will cover the "standard" sport bikes. There will also be a couple of motorcycles that were not included in the previous sections, due to the lack of funds from the author at that time. The bikes in question will have a lot in common. Namely: poor handling, poor performance, almost complete inability to trick. However, there will be some noteworthy ones among them. Let's start in ascending order, from worst to best.

Number 9. Sanctus AKA dRiFt BiKe
The first thing that catches your eye is its cost. Two million. For what, one wonders? For a huge skull with glowing eyes, and ridiculous decorations in the form of bones and cobwebs. All this can impress only a five-year-old. This skull looks as ridiculous as this mask on gear jammer.
As for its performance, it's not all that simple. On the one hand, it is capable of developing high speed, despite the fact that it practically cannot stand on the rear wheel. On the other hand, his extreme instability, for which he received the nickname drift bike, strives to derail you or directly into a wall at full speed.
Wallgrab - 3/10
Wheelie - 1/10
Stunt - 1/10

Not suitable for performing 90% of stunts.

Number 8. Nemesis

Sport Bike with engine of RC car. One of the saddest of his kind. Doesn't give pleasure both from normal driving and from trying to perform stunts. Precisely trying. The low speed, coupled with the inability to stand on the rear wheel while driving, leaves this motorcycle on the sidelines of existence.

Wallgrab - 3/10
Wheelie - 2/10
Stunt - 2/10

Number 7. Akuma

This bike is the one I see most often among the players. It always surprised me why so much attention is paid to him. The obvious answer is low price and catchy looks. But only after driving on it you begin to understand why they love him. Fast, nimble, responsive. What more could you ask for a city trip? For normal driving, this is a great choice ... But we are looking for something more than normal driving. Its first drawback is the almost complete lack of the ability to stand on the rear wheel. This is critical for us. From this follow all of his other shortcomings, making him unsuitable for most tricks.

Wallgrab - 3/10
Wheelie - 1/10
Stunt - 3/10

Number 6. Vader

First on this list, who can get on the rear wheel at medium speed (for a short time). Among the pluses is a good wall grab. This is where the pros, in principle, end. Weak in all aspects motorcycle, capable of performing tricks only in "sterile" conditions, as well as on "luck".

Wallgrab - 5/10
Wheelie - 4/10
Stunt - 4/10

Number 5. Sanchez

The first dirt bike on this list. It has very poor performance for its class. Compared to the BF400, which I consider to be the perfect Dirt Stunt bike, Sanchez is a complete trash heap. However, if you compare it with the competitors on this list, it will still be very bad. He passed his rivals higher due to the fact that he can get on the rear wheel relatively easily. Develops an average speed and behaves predictably on the road. Nevertheless, he did not manage to get far from his rivals. Who needs Sanchez when there is BF400?

Wallgrab - 4/10
Wheelie - 4/10
Stunt - 5/10

Number 4. Vortex

The second most expensive motorcycle on this list. On it, the first attempts to perform tricks at an acceptable level begin. By an acceptable level, I mean that your actions and their results lead to the outcome you want at least 40% of the time. At least for a motorcycle of this stunt level. Demonstrates rather mediocre performance in all techniques. I do not recommend it for mastering.

Wallgrab - 5/10
Wheelie - 4/10
Stunt - 5/10

Number 3. TT

The first motorcycle that really surprised me. Having external similarities with Akuma: body type, size, I thought that these are two motorcycles for the price of one. Two of the same useless for tricks. But I was wrong. There is a chasm between this bike and The Stunt Bike. However, the TT is able to throw on the rope bridge and make its way over it across the abyss. On this bike, you can really achieve results, albeit in the segment of the simplest stunts.

Wallgrab - 5/10
Wheelie - 5/10
Stunt - 5/10

Number 2. PCJ

Most controversial bike on this list. Being on it does not leave me the feeling that something is wrong. In terms of characteristics, it surpasses opponents, it rides on the rear wheel not for long, but confidently. Able to use small to medium sized bumps at high speeds. However, everything seems to be half-hearted. As if he has 10% of the charge left, and he is trying to squeeze everything out of his last strength. Despite all its advantages, riding this bike was the most frustrating for me. Why do you need PСJ if you have Ruffian?

Wallgrab - 6/10
Wheelie - 6/10
Stunt - 6/10

Number 1. Manchez Scout

Return of the legend in a new body. In addition to cosmetic improvements, we got the most important thing - the ability to get on the rear wheel AT ANY TIME, and go on like this indefinitely. The original Manchez was my first bike, and its only drawback was that the rear wheel could only be driven from a standstill. That is, I had to choose a distance, get on the rear wheel from the start, and in this state, pick up speed and go to the destination point. If you accelerate too fast, the wheel will fall. If you jump on bumps, you will lose speed. And forget about the turns. I had to choose a straight distance with a flat section of the road, and this greatly limited the scope of the motorcycle. However, the new Manchez is devoid of all these disadvantages! Get on the rear wheel whenever you want and at any speed! Enter corners at unimaginable angles and stay fast! This bike has reached the BF400 level of excellence. The only drawback is not a very good wall grab. Otherwise, he's great. Manchez Scout deserves first place, and a place in your garage on par with the rest of the main stunt bikes.

Wallgrab - 7/10
Wheelie - 10/10
Stunt - 8/10

Results:

Custom and Expensive Bikes

"To be, or not to be, that is the question"

First of all we have 4 stunt bikes: BF400 (95k$)/Hakuchou (82k$)/Ruffian (10k$)/Bati 801 (15k$). And you can do every kind of stunts on them. Good old cheap bikes... But if you go into game store, you can find some bikes with prices from 400k$ to 2m$.

At this moment, a reasonable thought may visit you - if I have such power for such little money, then a motorcycle at the price of 400k will be at least as good, and even several times better. But no matter how it is! All these "super bikes" have several things in common: 1) Poor handling. 2) Low speed. 3) Non-fit for tricks. 4) Inflated prices.

Most of the bikes on the list below are junk. Their only use is for routine ground driving. The only exception will be two of them: Drag bike and Shotaro, since they are both created for different purposes.

So let's start from worst to "best"

Number 7. Diabolous Custom
This bike is biggest disappointment... It looks so badass so you think: "Oh man, this thing will roll!"
But in fact, he has nothing but appearance. Seriously, he's so bad that even the simplest warm-up tricks become major league tricks. Low speed, disgusting wheelie and complete inability to trick. The only thing I could do was jump over the container.
Price: 169k + 245k = 414k
Buy only for collection, not for stunts. So sad...

Number 6 Without Extra Dip. Hakuchou Drag
This is super good bike for its own purposes. Best choice for people who love hunting down players with sniper rifle. Very fast, good handling, smoking hot looks.
By virtue of its design, it cannot stand on the rear wheel, and to demand it would be madness. But if you decide to trick - find a hill. You will have to jump like from a springboard, since bump jumps are impossible on it.
Price: 976k
Totally worth that money, go and buy one.

Number 5. Vindicator
An interesting bike at first glance. It can even get on the rear wheel for a short time at medium speed. This is already something ... During the tests it performed well in wallgrabbing. To be honest i didnt expected that. However, due to its size, it has very poor speed and handling. Jumping is possible only when accelerating from a standstill at a distance of no more than 50m from the bump. In addition, it has very few customization options (none at all). I doubt you need such a land yacht.
Price: 630k. For what?
I do not recommend it.

Number 4. Shotaro
Shotaro is a Drag Bike on steroids. It has better handling, very good grip, not as heavy as Drag Bike and most importantly, fancy glowing paintjobs. Hell yeah! In addition it can do wheelies, so you don't have to go around every obstacle. This means you can perform bumpjumping, very specific and situational, but still.
Price: 2,25m. Very overrated imo.
Buy this bike only if you have extra money.

Number 3. Lectro
Another overpiced wtf bike. Bad handling, bad speed, bad wheelies. Everything is bad about this bike. This is all i can say about it. Dummy for 750k.
Price: 750k.
I do not recommend this bike. If you have one, just sell it and buy something useful. OK? Thanks.

Number 2. FCR 1000
This bike can do some ♥♥♥♥. First of all it has longest wheelies from all of those bikes above. And we know that wheelies are the key to success. Nice speed and handling, pretty good wallgrabbing. Application for this bike is low-tier stunting for perverts. It will be hard, the efficiency will be slightly above zero. But you can still stunt. I guess...
Price: 135k+196k=331k
If you want to buy this bike - go ahead. If you dont - you loose nothing.

Number 1. Defiler
Here is the "winner". This bike is just better in everything in comparison to other bikes from above. He is the only one who managed to get close to what is called stunting. To the most simple and uncomplicated, but nonetheless possible. My congratulations.
Price: 412k
Buy this bike on your own risk and dont expect much.

These are results of that "experiment"

So, whats the answer? I believe, its "not to be" in my garage. In comparison to main 4 stunt bikes these are total garbage and waste of money. Shotaro and Drag Bike are exception. You can buy them and store only for collection, or for wicked experiments, just like i did.

This is my opinion, you may agree or disagree.

Paper Plane Shinobi

A new motorcycle has arrived in town, meet Shinobi.


This bike is a game changer. Thanks to its features, it demonstrates UNIQUE behavior on the road. It's all about his buggy suspension.The fact is that the wheels behave differently than on other motorcycles. An overly bouncy front wheel, and an amorphous rear wheel, at first glance create an imbalance. However, by finding the key to understanding, we can benefit from it. That's why I took out this motorcycle in a separate section. To get started, watch this video. Here you can see where the dog is buried.

As you can see, the front wheel bounces instantly on contact with the ground. Thanks to this, the bike throws harder, farther and higher than any other. Together with its ephemeral weight and rocket power, we get just an explosive mixture. This is a game changer, forcing us to "play" from the front wheel. God Himself ordered to focus on the tricks associated with the wall grab technique. The front wheel GIVES us that opportunity.

Now let's move on to the rear wheel, which TAKES something from us. As you have seen, it falls through the textures. This doesn't make it incapable of kicking off the surface, but because of this the bike will tend to "swallow" small obstacles as if they weren't there at all. You'll either drive right through, or you won't jump high enough. Therefore, it is simply necessary to use the front wheel here.

His weight. It just doesn't exist. It's a Paper Plane powered by a rocket. Thanks to this, you can jump higher and further, having a smaller distance for acceleration (up to 50%). And at the same time develop speed 30% less than any other bike. It's just a brain explosion.


It’s worth keeping in mind the fact that our wonderful suspension allows us to break some rules and go around. For example, here is this wall on the roof of the building.
Quite high, and has a ledge from below. Under normal conditions, to overcome it, you will have to use the wallgrab technique. To do this, you will need to combine speed, perfect angle, and a combination of shift + s buttons. But not with this bike, oh no. You can just press FORWARD and the bike will do everything for you. Yes, yes, you heard right. See for yourself.

BOOM

Of course, this does not mean that now you can forget about everything I taught you and drive around the city with the FORWARD button pressed. It's just that a lot of things become obscenely simple with this bike, and that should be kept in mind.

The motorcycle is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. In return, you will get, I'm not afraid of this word, a unique gameplay. Personally, I have already been able to complete some jumps that I have not been able to do for years. It's not that I specifically tried to do them, but every time I drove by I tried to do them, and I didn't succeed. Well, those jumps that I can do have become much easier.

Of the minuses, I can note that for a 100% comfortable ride on it, the planets must line up and the magnetic storms outside the window will stop. Simply put, rituals must be observed, which will have to be kept in mind. Unlike the same BF400, which is a pleasure to ride, you do not need to strain and so on. Just sat down and went, without difficulty performing any trick.

But you need to find a common language with this beast and then you will get a storm of emotions, and this, in my opinion, is worth it.

Breathtaking ARCH

"In 2022 what makes someone a stuntman?
-Getting ARCH."
Reever aka Method 143

I've been waiting for this bike for a very long time. Since I'm an Arch Motorcycle fan, having one of these in my collection is an incredible joy.

This motorcycle surprises not only with its appearance, but also with responsive handling. But the most important thing is the ability to perform stunts.

In my humble opinion, this bike is a King of small bump jumping. It has an ideal center of mass. This is most noticeable if you do a backflip during the jump. The greater the speed and height - the more noticeable. Just watch how it spins, as if strung on an invisible needle. An unobvious positive effect of this feature is that when it falls, it often lands on its wheels, flat or at an angle. What can not be said about the rest of the motorcycles, constantly turning the wheels up (hello Hakuchou).


The second undeniable quality of this bike is the ease with which it handles small obstacles. If the same Shinobi often "eats" small obstacles, then Reever jumps on them very strongly. Since it is hard for him to stand on the rear wheel, this makes it difficult to jump at high speed and large obstacles. Nevertheless, it is difficult to guess the right moment, but it is quite feasible.

In addition, the bike has either a bug or a feature. When you are in the air trying to increase the flight distance (swinging the motorcycle), the Reever flies as if it has an anti-gravity field. Try to jump on it from a small acceleration, and see how far it "floats" through the air.

Unlike Shinobi, on this motorcycle we will focus on the rear wheel and ride on it. As I said, the best option for this bike is going to be obstacles that are not much higher than the height of the road block. However, jumping from large obstacles is also possible, but this requires more practice and calculations.

This motorcycle can stand on a par with such bikes as Hakuchou/BF400/Shinobi/Bati/Ruffian. An this is an absolute win. Possibly the most idiosyncratic and difficult bike to handle among the mainstream stunt bikes. And on the other hand, it gives us a unique gameplay and a challenge. Whether you accept this challenge or not is up to you.

Personally, I accepted the challenge and got a lot of pleasure. This is a short representation of the capabilities of this bike.

Choppers

To be honest, I did not expect such results. Most of the bikes on this list performed not only better, but much better than the bikes in the previous section. Who would have expected a plain old rusty chopper to outperform a 750K sports bike? Motorcycles, which are designed for a quiet ride, have been able to show truly incredible results for their class. Initially, I did not give seriousness to these tests, but during the experiment I was pleasantly surprised. I pulled 10 choppers out of their comfort zone and threw them into the front line. Read on to see what came of it.

Let's start in order, from worst to best.

Number 10. Nightblade

A powerful motorcycle that, unfortunately, is permanently magnetised to the ground. The inability to stand on the rear wheel at any speed makes it inapplicable for our purposes. None of the obstacles is possible to jump over, and to jump onto the roofs. RIP.
Price: 100k
I do not recommend for stunts.

Number 9. Esskey

Not really a chopper. But promising because of his appearance. But appearances can be deceiving. Almost complete lack of the ability to stand on the rear wheel, indistinct control, and in general a questionable bike for both stunt and just collection. Of the obstacles, only the curb can be overcome, there is no need to think about anything more.
Price: 264k for nothing
Absolutely do not recommend...

Number 8. Hexer

Classic chopper at the lowest price. It has no distinctive features. Can lift the front wheel off the ground for a very short time. Despite the fact that I was able to jump onto the test site - the roof of the mall, this chopper is not suitable for stunts.
Price: 15k
I do not recommend this chopper

Number 7. Innovation

A very beautiful chopper that can please you only with its appearance. He jumped onto the roof of the mall, but that doesn't make him stunt-fit, like the previous bike Hexer. In addition, wheels cannot be changed on it.
Price: 92k
Only for collection

Number 6. Zombie Chopper

And here interesting things are already beginning to happen. Starting with this chopper, all subsequent choppers will be stunt-fit to some degree. But first, specifically about this. First, we can get on the rear wheel, which means we can increase the speed. Secondly, we can jump over small obstacles in our path, which is already incredible for a bike of this class. Thirdly, we can jump onto small buildings. On the one hand, this is not enough, but on the other hand, this is enough for a chopper.
Price: 122k
This bike can do some stuff, so you can grab it if you have extra 120k.

Number 5. Daemon

Has the same characteristics as Zombie. But in comparison with it, it has a much more pleasant and responsive handling, which is quite important for a motorcycle of this class. Longer and lighter wheelies. One of the few bikes that are just fun to ride.
Price: 145k
Good bike, you wont regret.

Number 4. Wolfsbane

Since we go in ascending order, and each subsequent bike is slightly better than the previous one, I will not repeat further every time about handling and the ability to stand on the rear wheel. As I indicated, starting with Zombie, every motorcycle is usable to stunts to some degree. Therefore, I will write about specific differences and features in comparison with the previous bike.

So, this particular motorcycle had the first prerequisites for wallgrabbing. That was first chopper that I was able to jump over the first container in the tests. This feature increases the range of application of this motorcycle.
Price: 95k
You can try this bike, but dont expect much.

Number 3. Avarus

This chopper showcases simply superb wallgrabbing, the very best on this list. He does it so easily and gracefully, as if he was created specifically for this. Of the shortcomings, I can only note a weak braking system, and, as a result, a long braking distance. But this is most likely due to its infernal power. And why should we slow down? In our business, we only brake the bike with our face against the wall. Be sure to wear a helmet.
Price: 116k
Can i recommend it? Maybe.

Number 2. Rat Bike

Rough diamond. A beautiful pearl hidden in a hideous shell. A rusty piece of ♥♥♥♥ on the outside, and a damn potential stunt bike on the inside that's ready to challenge you. Its hallmark is the ability to get on the rear wheel at any time and at any speed. And go so endlessly if the road allows. Hakuchou level wheelie. Of the shortcomings, he has very tight control, and he also starts to bounce when driving on the rear wheel for a long time (it looks cool, but most often it slows down your speed, and sometimes you can even fly away where you don't need to)
Price: 48k. Also you can have this bike for free. If you have only one bike in your garage, and its destroyed - you can spawn Rat Bike (without upgrades).
Can i recommend this chopper? Yes, but only if you have enough balls to handle it. Good luck.

Number 1. Cliffhanger

Here is the winner. What can i say about it? This bike is just perfect. It deserves to be one of your main stunt bikes, along with Hakuchou, Bati 801, Ruffian and BF400.
Perfect speed, controls, wheelies, grip. This chopper can easily do low and medium tier jumps. As Rat Bike, it can do long wheelies. But unlike Rat Bike, Cliffhanger is an infinite number of times better suited for bumpjumping. Of the shortcomings, I can only mention weak wallgrabbing. Otherwise, this is the perfect bike for our purposes.
Price: 225k. Totally worth it!
Can i recommend this bike? Hell yes. This chopper can perform every stunting techniques.

Summing up, I want to say that all the bikes on this list except the first two exceeded all my expectations. I've always been skeptical of choppers as I didn't see any potential in this direction. Who in their right mind wants to throw a chopper on the roof of a building? And will he still wait for a successful result? Nevertheless, once again we see that the ceiling of development is limited only by our imagination and perseverance. What do we end up with? With 8 unusual motorcycles for unusual situations.

And whether it is worth spending time on such peculiar stunts is up to you.
You can see results here:

Theory

WEIRD SCIENCE

Now its time to talk about important things. These things are [Speed.Distance.Angle]

These three factors are equivalent to each other. To successfully complete the jumps you have to maintain a balance between them.

We will start with speed.
An obvious thought immediately arises in my head: "The faster I drive, the higher I jump." It would seem that here is the secret of success. However, you have to very quickly return to harsh reality. The faster you drive, the more likely you are going to crash against the wall. Since at high speed you most likely will not have time to get up on the rear wheel in advance, and even more so to raise it at the right angle. All this is complicated by road bumps, borders, etc. that will throw you into the air ahead of time. In this case, you can forget about a successful jump. It is very important to understand that a greater distance does not equal greater speed! At least not in our case. Because we can do it our way. At the moment when you get on the rear wheel you get strong acceleration - this is your secret weapon. Thus, choosing a middle distance, you accelerate yourself by standing on the rear wheel:
1) Continuous wheelie if conditions permit.
2) Intermittent. if the conditions do not allow you to go straight all the time, or the surface is uneven, or you need to turn and whatever.

The second factor is distance.
You must always choose it wisely, because it depends primarily on the complexity and height of the jump. The ideal option is always a direct distance from point A to point B. However, this does not mean that you can take acceleration only on a straight line. This means that the distance should be as straight as possible at that time when you have already gained sufficient speed and are ready to stand on the rear wheel before impact. To do this, you need to calculate the time for which you can lift the wheel to the desired angle, drive enough to gain speed until the moment of collision with an obstacle to make a successful jump. I repeat once again: the distance for acceleration can be any distance and curvature, but you must go straight on a "finish line" right before the moment of impact. Thus, the distance can be divided into two types: Primary and Secondary.

Oddly enough, but the Primary distance is not the place from which you take acceleration. This is the place where you must take the correct position before the impact (go straight with ALREADY optimal speed, be able to stand on the rear wheel with subsequent acceleration, and maintain the right angle).
Secondary distance is the place from which you take acceleration - thats simple.

Third one is angle.
It is the simplest aspect in terms of understanding, but not in execution. The most important condition is that the front wheel must hit an obstacle BEFORE you hit it on the bottom of the motorcycle. If you hit an obstacle with your engine, then with a 90% probability you and your motorcycle will fly in different directions, separately from each other. If you do everything right and first hit the front wheel, it works like a shock absorber and sets the correct vector for your speed, redirecting it from the obstacle into the air and towards your target. Thus, you do not hit the bottom with all your strength against the obstacle, but slip over it. If you move perpendicular: In elementary geometry, the property of being perpendicular (perpendicularity) is the relationship between two lines which meet at a right angle (90 degrees). The property extends to other related geometric objects. to an obstacle, your chances of success are greatly increased.

Roughly speaking, this is an obstacle: ---
And this is you on your bike: |
And this is you trying to do correct angle jump: T

However, there also few things, in many ways not obvious. Since each motorcycle has its own unique handling line, each of them reacts differently to game objects. About these features, and in particular about the suspension read in "Extreme Landing" section.


Imagine a situation. You cruising around on your new fully loaded bike and you see a big building. You wanna jump to it. But how exactly?

[Step one] Rate situation. Select target.
[Step two] Find a good spot for bump.
[Step three] Select [distance].
On this screen you can see secondary distance where you start your acceleration.

[Step four] Reach maximum [speed]. *Pro tip*: Press ctrl and go wheelie. Try to stay on rear wheel as much as you can because it will increase your [speed]. On this screen you can see me on Primary distance. This is the place where im going on a straight "finish line".

[Step five] One of the most important things - correct [angle]. You need to bump with your forward wheel first. if you do, it launch you into the air. If you dont - you will squish your balls and die in agony. You can make all the way to bump on wheelie or get back to the ground with two wheels when you near the bump, and then start wheelie before bump (that depends on what kind and height of bump before you)

[Step six] Flying manuevers : OK now you in the air. Lean your bike back and hold it in near horizontal position. Try to hold your rear wheel almost on the same level as forward wheel - that will help help you to fly higher and further.

[Step seven] Stabilize yourself before landing. You can increase your lucky landing if you prepare yourself in the air first. If you still fly upside down and you think you will crash - just move your rear wheel higher than forward wheel and then release ctrl. Your bike will make instant frontflip (you can learn how to perform it in "Instant Frontflip" section down below.

[Step eight] Landing. Worst part of all. You can fail jump with perfect trajectory or smash wall on full speed and stay on bike. There is always 50/50. To increase succesfull landing read "Extreme landing" section.

Of Bumps and Men

“I gotta think about that. We was always gonna do it by ourselves.”

Now its time to think about obvious things.
First: what is a bump?
Secondly: what are they?
Any roughness on the road, a fence, a border, a wall: any object that protrudes from the surface, or part of it, is a bump.
They are of two types: monolithic (immovable) and movable / "destructible" (all kinds of objects that are not part of buildings and other objects, such as boxes, containers, garbage cans, benches, electrical panels, etc.)

The first type includes all walls, fences, houses, road bumps, landscape bumps, curbs, roofs and any other objects that we cannot influence. I divide them into two subtypes, which depend on the height of the obstacle. There are few simple examples.

• Everything below human height is bumps

• Everything above human growth is a wall (even if in essence it is not a wall)

no obvious pics included, just keep it in your mind.

There are good bumps and bad ones. Good ones include those that have a flat surface, preferably not curved to the top like a road block and without protruding edges from above.

Bad bumps include all “composite” obstructions that have an extension from above or below, protruding objects, and a rounded shape. By composite objects, I mean those that do not consist of the same material (for example, like an ordinary concrete wall or fence) and have a stepped shape.
You should avoid these kind of bumps and use them only as a last resort.

Every composite walls.
Every walls with bushes or stepped shape.
And most see-through fences.
Round shaped objects.

Deep Bump Explanation

And Hakuchou as a test bike.

The problem is always the following - a discrepancy between the speed and the angle of the motorcycle. At very high speeds, the angle of the motorcycle decreases and tends closer to the ground. Accordingly, it will not be possible to raise the angle of the motorcycle to the desired level.

Look at wheelie decrease:

The conclusion is simple - you need to calculate the optimal distance. If you are going very fast, you need to slow down at the end and then immediately start raising the angle of the motorcycle (wheelie).

It is also worth remembering that the vast majority of all obstacles are no higher than 1-1.5 meters (all kinds of fences, road blocks, debris, etc.) And here the key point is the angle of the motorcycle.

Like on this screen, its the perfect position for hitting bumps.


IMPORTANT that for successfull stunt you have to hit obstacle with forward wheel first (in order to implement standard straight forward long jump). If you do right, wheel collision goes UP
and lift your bike higher, so it will SLIDE on obstacle and then FLY FORWARD.

You can see how wheel goes UP and LIFT the bike. Bike bottom SLIDES on obstacle without impact, and in the end rear wheel also bumping on obstacle, giving me extra speed and distance.


To do HIGHER jumps, you have to do higher wheelies, and almost every time you hit the obstacle with bike bottom, but in very specific place, and WITHOUT FORWARD WHEEL.

You can see, the front wheel goes ABOVE obstacle, and doesent affect the bump at all.

But you have to hit the obstacle with bike bottom, in place that closer to rear wheel, usually its exhaust pipes area. This is necessary so that the rear wheel bounces off the obstacle as quickly as possible and prevents you from turning over.

BUMP FAIL

in 99% its a bad angle problem. If you do very low wheelie, the front wheel desent goes UP, but INSIDE of your bike - this counts as heavy impact and you crash.

If you do stupidly high wheelie on low obstacle - your exhaust pipes area will stuck in textures. Pipes stuck = bike stuck. Bike stuck = you fly high and die. Also hitting obstacles with your engine is not good idea.

Let's sum it up
For a successful jump, 3 factors are important: speed, angle and distance. If you make a mistake in one thing, everything is lost.
To understand this, you often have to make a large or very large number of attempts. Depending on the complexity of the jump, the number of attempts can reach an insane number, and an additional factor appears - luck.

Well, and accordingly, practice. Without it, everything makes no sense. After spending 3 thousand hours on stunts, I still crash to death and spend an insane amount of attempts on some spots.

Extreme Landing & Suspension

"For your safety wear a helmet and a semenproof west." © JLJ

On my way I came across one very unpleasant moment: very often there were situations in which I made head-on collisions with different game objects at full speed and got off with only a slight fright. But when I fell from low altitude and at low speed I very often crashed to death. It haunted me for a very long time because I did not see the reason why this was happening in this way.
   Over time, I began to notice that different bikes react to collisions in different ways. It made me wonder - what is the matter here. The answer was obvious - the key difference was the suspension and shock absorbers. For heavy bikes of the Hakuchou type, the bottom is very low above the ground and almost "scratches" along the road. While dirt bikes like the BF400 have high suspension and good shock absorbers. This provides a different "immersion" on each bike (by this I mean the maximum possible immersion of the wheels in the body without damaging the bike).
   To show how this looks in practice, for the test I took two bikes of the opposite type - BF400 and Hakuchou. The roof of one of the buildings was taken for the test site. The task was to demonstrate the suspension in free fall without external factors. I will say right away that the height of the building is not large, but even from such a distance Hakuchou could not land, unlike the BF400, for which such a height is not a problem at all. So I decided to go down 1 floor below and demonstrate the Hakuchou suspension.

As you can see, the suspension plays a decisive role.
Well, now, knowing these features, we will move on to the next point, namely, to the Extreme Landing.

Perhaps now I will say an obvious thing for many, but you can’t not mention it in any case. Being in the air in any land transport, you can use the hand brake and, in fact, brake in the air. This is always worth remembering.

And now directly the landing technique itself. For myself, I have come up with four methods of extreme landing.
1. Landing on the front wheel.
This will help you not to break bones when landing both at high speed and when freely falling from a medium height.
2. Horizontal / vertical braking.
Imagine that you are landing in a free fall to the ground. It's the same here, only you fall on the wall.
This will help you brake the bike at a very high speed. If you need to stop at the point of impact then use the hand brake. If you need to brake on the wall and bounce a little from it - do not use the hand brake.
3. Frontflip.
The purpose and application of this method is described above. It saves you when it’s difficult to land on the front wheel.
4. Lateral braking.
The most commonly used method. All you need to do is turn sideways and pray. It helps you to gain a foothold on the roof and not fly out of it, even if there are no objects on it except a small curb.

Remember that there is always more than one way to jump onto any building. The main thing is not to rest against the wall if it does not come out in one way. Experiment and find your own paths to the top.

Instant Frontflip

Here I will show how to do instant frontflip. The peculiarity of this method is that from the "upside down" position immediately go to the normal position. In short, this method will help to minimize unsuccessful landings in medium and short jumps.
The main points in which this method is applied:

[1] You do not have enough distance for acceleration (for example, you are on the roof and you need to get from it to another). For a successful jump, you will have to hold the motorcycle upside down for as long as possible to overcome the distance. But landing on your head should not be part of your plans, even if you are wearing a helmet. So by implementing the front flip, you will protect yourself when you land.

[2] You have enough space for acceleration, but during the jump you reach a great height and speed, which subsequently complicates a successful landing. In order to survive the fall in this case you need to: hold the motorcycle upside down until the last moment and then do the frontflip.

HOW TO DO IT

Very simple. In the following image I will show you all the stages of a successful jump and its completion.



[Active Zone]
This is where it all begins.
At this stage, the moments of the start of the jump and the correct position of the motorcycle in air for a successful jump are shown. Your motorcycle should take the following position. Front wheel at 10 hours and rear wheel at 4.

Passive Zone
At this point, you keep yourself in one position. The front wheel at 9 hours and the rear at 2.

Preparation Zone
When you are close to the ground, you should start prepare yourself for frontflip. Hold your bike in that position: front wheel at 8 hours and the rear at 1.

Frontflip
This is the final stage.
Only thing you had to do is press ctrl a little bit and then release it and you will complete instant frontflip.

boom

Wall Grabbing

“Grab them by the p u s s y. You can do anything.” © DT

IMPORTANT: this glitch depends on your FPS. More FPS=better wallgrab (higher). I locked my fps at 90, but i think 75-85 would be enough to reach higher buildings.

So, if there is an obstacle in the form of a sheer wall in your way, you can easily overcome it. All you need is to hit the wall with the front wheel at the right angle. But there is one trick: in order not to fly back, you need to have time to release ctrl and hold shift + s when wheel touches the wall. This way you can fly parallel to the wall.

This method is extremely useful if you are limited in space, and the obstacle in front of you is impossible, or it is difficult to overcome in another way. You don't need a lot of speed to do this trick, which is a big plus. The magic is to hit the right buttons on time in the right order. It also works if you don't have enough strength to fly to the roof and you keep hitting the wall all the time. By applying this technique in the air, you will be able to "drive" onto the roof and thereby achieve your goal.

Wallride

"Dey see me rollin'

DEY HATIN'!" © one english boi

Once upon a time you can stand before the wall that you cant grab or jump over it. The only option left is ride over it. Thats simple.
The condition for a successful jump is the presence of a flat wall without protruding objects + the presence of a bump (ladder) nearby.

Thats how you can reach top of that building, for example.

Tactical Jumps

This technique is opposite to Side Jumps. Their trajectory resembles a stone thrown over the water, or jumping rabbit. Simply put, between the starting and ending points, you have to make a series of jumps from roof to roof. The number of these intermediate jumps may vary depending on the complexity of your task.

If you make a series of jumps (from three or more) to a nearby roof or an object - this technique can be called a bunnyhop. Such jumps are usually not designed for tall buildings, because to perform them you need to maintain speed and accuracy, and it is very difficult to do on the roofs, which are one continuous roughness.

• Jump execution scheme:

Acceleration - The main jump that sets the direction and speed - a series of intermediate jumps in an arbitrary amount - the final target.

The second method can be called Projectile Jump, because its trajectory resembles the trajectory of a projectile (lol). Its main difference from the bunnyhop is that a series of jumps does not exceed three or more. To perform this jump you need a very good acceleration, because you have to fly far, and at the same time maintain speed. In those cases when your target is impregnable from the ground, and you really want to jump there - look around. Next to your target there will always be other buildings and objects, which in themselves are not of interest to you, but are ready to serve as a good bump. Most often, such jumps take place according to one scenario: you make a very good acceleration, jump as high as possible and fly as close to your target as possible. An intermediate jump should be made from the nearest building or object to your target. Because after landing on an intermediate object, you must immediately complete the next one - already directly to your target.

• Jump execution scheme:

Very strong acceleration - flight to the object closest to the target - immediate jump from an intermediate object - the final goal. The number of jumps should not exceed: 1 main and 2 intermediate, otherwise you will lose speed and fail.

The third way to apply this technique is the so-called hillclimbing. Technical climbing to the very top within the same building or object. After you jump on the roof, you may not be satisfied with the result, because there may be additional tall objects, or God forbid, another floor! After all, the height is not considered conquered until you occupy the maximum possible point on it! This is where methodical climbing to the top begins, with the help of ventilation, various pipes and superstructures located on the roof. The technique of this jump is arbitrary.

• The execution scheme:

Hopped onto the roof - rate the situation - ??? - you are on top.

Thats how they look like

Sidejumps

Side jumps are the exact opposite of Tactical jumps. Tactical jumps are a route from point A to point Z, that is, between these two letters can be all the other letters of the alphabet (roofs) through which you will need to go.
In turn, Sidejumps give you the opportunity to get from point A to point Z right away, bypassing all the other points.

A feature of this technique is that you redirect all of your acceleration from direct way to side way. This is necessary in cases where:

• Bump and your target are on opposite sides.

• The bump is right below your target and to your right / left.

• The bump is in front of your target and you need to take a side jump in the opposite direction.

All sidejumps have the trajectory of the letters "Г" or "L" or "G". However, there is one thing. This letter was written by a person with Parkinson's disease. However, all sidejumps will have a trajectory close to these letters. These jumps can be divided into several types:

• Classic side jump. You and your target are on the same horizontal plane.

• Vertical side jump. You are much lower than your target and it is on your left / right.

• Reverse side jump. It is divided into two subtypes - full and incomplete. Full implies the following - you push off the bump and make reversed backflip in the air (this only works if you have high enough speed, otherwise you just fall off the bike). Incomplete, it is a half-made
  wallgrab, when the front wheel pushes you not parallel to the wall, but up and back. And whats important - you dont have to do backflip in the air.
  
  Here you can see all types of sidejumps:
  
  • Classic/Horizontal Sidejump
  
  • Vertical sidejump
  
  • Reversed Sidejump
  
  Here you can see how it looks like
  

Precision Jumps

The easiest to understand, but the most difficult to implement. In fact, they are the "icing on the cake" of your skill.

As a rule, the target for landing is always a very high and extremely inaccessible object. What is most difficult is that there are very few places for landing, which means it will be very difficult to gain a foothold there.

Typical representatives: pipes, signs, towers, spiers, tall structures on roofs, lone tanks / towers, and so on.

You always need to land exactly on the bull's-eye, and there is practically no room for error.

This is a small example. Personally, I do not like this kind of tricks, because it takes too much time and nerves.

Gliding pt. I

Ok, now we got to, perhaps, the most difficult to learn and use jumping technique. This technique is Everest, which seeks to conquer any stunter. I'm talking about Glide now.
In principle, if you have reached this point, then you are already familiar to glide in one degree or another. Since almost any stunt is performed using it. Every time you fly upside down, thereby increasing the jump distance, you use a glide. But this is an ordinary, so to speak, everyday glide. Here I'm going to tell you about the real Glide, with a capital G.

Firstly, this technique only works in custom races (which you yourself can create using the Rockstar editor, or download the desired map from the library). Why Custom Races? Because they have the so-called anti-fall, which allows you to close your eyes to a number of difficulties that you had to put up with in free mode (falling from a motorcycle on impacts, landings and collisions; annoying traffic; constantly returning back after a failed attempt) ...
Since Glide with a capital G is essentially a stunt endgame, it will be used for the most difficult and mind-blowing tricks, which may take you not only several tens of hours, but even days and months to complete. You will sweat for hours on one trick, be prepared for it.
Therefore, condemning ourselves to such a test, we will not go into battle with a bare ass, but will prepare the ground for our activities. We will suffer, but we will suffer on our terms.

So what are the benefits of a custom race, and how do you create it correctly? First, you need to figure out where you are going to jump. This must be done in free mode. When you decide a target, you will need to choose a starting point from where you will start moving. Then you calculate the route so that it is as comfortable and direct as possible, since we need the maximum speed. Having dealt with this, you go to the editor, create a necessarily stunt race. Place a trigger next to your first checkpoint. Then you build a fake track 1 kilometer long (this is a prerequisite for the race to be published).
The first checkpoint you put on the spot where you will make the movement. And all subsequent checkpoints you put "for show". You need to put them anywhere, but in such a way that they are far from the first checkpoint, and do not come across to you all the way ahead. EITHER you place checkpoints (it is best to make only one checkpoint, but at a very large distance from your first checkpoint) far, far behind your target, so that it is in front of you, but at the same time out of reach, or you put checkpoints parallel to your route, but far left or right. Why are there so many problems with this? If you played a race, then when you move past the checkpoint you need, you will see a sign MOVING IN THE WRONG DIRECTION half of the screen. To prevent this from happening, we will deceive the game in such a way that we do not go to the checkpoints, but move in their direction. Thus, you save the first checkpoint for respawn, and calmly try to do tricks without any pop-up signs.


In the settings of the race you created, you select the available transport. In our case, you choose motorcycles, put a tick on the use of personal transport. You remove the check marks from all other types of transport. In the additional settings, you remove traffic and pedestrians, and set the weather at your discretion. Personally, I always put on a clear afternoon, because I hate playing in the dark. After completing all these points, you will need to make one test race - drive from checkpoint A to checkpoint Z. After that you can publish the race, and then play it yourself or with friends.

ATTENTION! IMPORTANT INFORMATION! Before moving on to the Glide itself, you will need to read the next two paragraphs! They contain key information.

• The first thing you will have to figure out once and for all is that from now on, you will be doing wheelies with Numpad 5. Forget about ctrl. Why, you ask? If you are used to using ctrl, then you are used to the fact that it is quite difficult to control a motorcycle in the air: it often twists and turns. So, when you press Numpad 5, your motorcycle will fly smoothly, as if you were riding on rails. At first it will be difficult for you to readjust, especially to the fact that you have to forget about the mouse purview. But I assure you that after a few hours of suffering, you will get used to the new control system. It will seem so convenient to you that you will ask yourself the question - how could I even drive with ctrl? Along with this, the quality and range of your jumps will increase. This is the price you have to pay to play in the Major League.

• So, in order to jump correctly while in the air, you must HOLD Numpad 5 all the time! And do not let go until landing! And in order not to turn over in the air, you will adjust your position with short presses of the shift key. I repeat once again: you do not remove your finger from the Numpad 5, but you press the shift key with the frequency required to hold the bike in the desired position. Read it 10 more times to get it stuck in your head. If you let go of Numpad 5 - that's it, pizda рулю. But the most important thing is not to pull the steering wheel over yourself at the very beginning! If you over-drag at the very beginning, you will quickly lose speed and fall. Do not do that! In the screenshots below gliding video, I will show in what position your bike should be at the very beginning, how and when you need to pull the steering wheel towards you, and how long it will take for each action!

Now I will show you a Glide with a capital G. For clarity, I will divide the video into two parts: in the first I will show what a glide looks like, and in the second I will show you how to gain altitude, how to lower the altitude, how to gain and decelerate speed.
These two guys will help us figure it out:
Pink will show the glide in general terms [00:00-01:43], and Gray will show the flying maneuvers [01:45-03:34].

Let's analyze the first part with the Pink guy. HOLD NUMPAD 5 ALL THE TIME!

• The initial position of your motorcycle should be vertical, do not pull the front wheel towards you.

Keep the motorcycle in this position for 1.5-3 seconds. This is necessary for two things: to initiate an infinite flight bug, and also to gain speed.

• Slowly begin to pull the front wheel towards you. Swing the motorcycle back and forth in short jerks. It takes about 4 seconds to make these jerks.

At this point, you will notice that the motorcycle stops falling like a stone. He will slowly begin to fly forward. As soon as you notice this, move on to the next step.

• From now on, start pulling the front wheel towards you even more, but do not bring the motorcycle to a horizontal position! Now the swinging amplitude will increase greatly. You will fly forward like a rocket and begin to gradually gain altitude.

Maintain the amplitude of rotation of the motorcycle in this position until you reach the desired point. In this way, you can fly endlessly.

Gliding pt. II

HOLD NUMPAD 5 ALL THE TIME!

So, we figured out flights in a straight line, now let's move on to the second part of the video.
In principle, the climb and drop of altitude (for example, for acceleration) is performed by simple actions. When you have already reached the third stage of the Glide and are flying straight:

• For a quick climb: tilt the motorcycle forward slightly and keep it in that position with lightning-fast clicks on the shift key.

• For normal climb: simply increase the swing of the motorcycle. Flying in a straight line you will inevitably gain altitude, but by slightly increasing the amplitude, you will do it a little faster.

In case you gained too much altitude, or began to lose altitude and speed (in other words, to falling), you will need to do the following:

• Place the motorcycle in a vertical position and hold it until you drop to the desired height. As you descend, you will gain speed - it helps you avoid falling.

Vertical position as in the first stage of Glide.

• After gaining speed, you will have to repeat all the points of the Glide from the very beginning. Since the swinging of the motorcycle will take you some time, it is important to have time to complete them before you fall to the ground.

If you do everything in time, then you will again fly towards the heavens.

Conclusion

At the moment, all the information that I have on the topic is provided here. All of it is taken from the personal experience of one person, so it can and will contain inaccuracies and shortcomings. I do not claim to be a professional trickster. I'm just a person who ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ loves stunts.

And for a certain time I have accumulated information that I decided to share with those to whom it may be useful.

The original purpose of the guide was not to show off, but to find people who are interested in the same thing as me. And such people were found. So all this sheet of text and somehow made videos justified themselves.

The guide will be updated as new content becomes available. Until then, thanks for reading so far. Special thanks to those who kept me company.

If you have a desire to stunt together - write in the comments. I play on PC.

[derevo]

Thanks for your kind words!

You can find Hakuchou in free roam, it spawns in docks and cruising around parking lot. Very rare encounter. Btw i can sell you mine Hakuchou.

[XRP]

Bro, this is by far the best and funniest guide on steam :D Since I have this game I freeroam and stunt all the time even with random players on the back seat because it is so much fun !! I always did it but never knew that there is a whole community behind it. Thats so awesome ! I just began reading this guide but man its so funny I jumped straight to this comment section XD

THANK YOU ! It must have took you a long time to write this and I appreciate it!

by the way since the hakuchou isnt available to buy - can someone add me and sell me a copy of his hakuchou ? please i want it so bad :'( my name is ENJOY627 on social club and i have a pink rockstar logo as avatar

[PacU]

Epic guide dude. Can you show a deep guide about the Hakuchou? Especially about bump timing? Everytime i do it, the bike doesn't get enough height or speed

[derevo]

Good idea, i sent you request!

[Bunta]

I would like to play a session with you seeing you do all kind of stunts! Whenever you feel like jumping on GTA Online and do freemode stunts :D

[derevo]

For me its BF400. Most comfortable bike for stunts.

[Bunta]

Hmm then which bike do you think is the King of stunting, that is balanced in general

[derevo]

I dont thinks so, Bunta. Because it has troubles with wheelies on high speed. But this issue compensates with good acceleration and very low weight. I think Shinobi is equal to BF400 and Hakuchou. But yes, it greatly expands the possibilities for stunting.

[Bunta]

is the shinobi bike The King of Stunting?

[derevo]

I tried to play with default suspension, but didnt noticed any difference. According to this logic, armor should also increase weight and affect handling. But to be honest, I either didn't notice anything or didn't test enough. In any case, even if the influence of the armor is there, I will gladly put it on so that the motorcycle becomes indestructible. Better to lose a few km / h than call a new bike every 2 minutes.