The Best Guide :: Goo's Ultimate Guide To Siege :: (UPDATE IN PROGRESS)

[Updated for Burnt Horizon Pre-MidSeason] --- Goes into All Operators. --- Written by Goo.

Introduction

Welcome to the best guide.

The actual best guide ever made for Siege. Why, Goo, why, how do you dare say that just to introduce your half-arsed steam guide huh? Let me tell you why, RIGHT NOW WHEN I MADE THIS, the best, highest rated guide on Steam (for Siege) is called “Siege Cheat Sheet” and it is just a list of all the basic stuff every beginner should know; including tips and tricks for the individual operators. BUT NO, I DON’T NEED A GUIDE THAT SAYS:



WHAT AM I, SOME CASUAL? Oh NO; We are taking back The Best Guide title and we are doing so by upping the game, with a guide with PROPER TIPS, NO CASUALS ALLOWED, Actual useful stuff that YOU SHOULD KNOW for all operators. IF YOU THINK I AM EXAGGERATING TO GET A HIGH RATING THEN READ THE GUIDE AND PROVE YOURSELF WRONG; COME BACK AND SMASH thaT LiKE BUTTON AND FAVORITE THIS TRASH ALREADY.

And NO, I DON’T SUGGEST YOU SEND THIS TO YOUR NOOB FRIENDS LIKE THE OTHER GUIDE DID; YOU SHOULD KEEP IT TO YOURSELF; AND THEN STOMP EVERYONE INGAME WITH YOUR EXPANDED CEREBRAL MATTER.
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Disclaimer: Due to operator skill ceiling and mechanics some operator’s tricks are way more interesting than others, that’s not really my fault but just how they are designed and how much potential their design has. If you think some stuff here is uninteresting, keep reading because I’m convinced you’ll find at least 1 thing that will be worth your time.

Last but not least, I will personally find all of you idiots commenting this kind of garbage and have you removed from Steam by my Steam-Working uncle:

Enjoy the guide.

-Goo

SAS (The OG)

Sledge:

Sledge is not a “soft breacher”, Buck is. Sledge is a very close quarters oriented fragger. He is supposed to be used like you would use an Ash; in the sense that the point is just going in and killing people with everything you’ve got. Sledge however, is less frontal than Ash, and has more flexible potential (by having both a good ACOG gun and the best close quarters SMG; equipped along frags).

As Sledge, the hammer is for your personal use, is for you to move around the map faster; and more aggressively than most other attackers. The potential Sledge has to create random lines of transit for himself makes him a very particular attacker to play against mostly because of how strong his guns are when played chaotically. Remember he can one hit barricades (including Castle ones if you ever come across them) while Buck has to melee or skeleton them multiple times).

Push in and do it with your chest. If you’re a high level player don’t underestimate picking Sledge for a Buck just because he has better vertical potential; Sledge is an underrated, no brain, all skill, brutal killer.
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Thatcher:

If it comes down to it, using EMPs as a sort of Pseudo Flashbang is not completely useless. The explosion they make is very loud which you can use to mask your movement for an instant (even though they don’t make enemies’ ears ring). But more importantly, they turn off 1x sights. Considering you’ve got an ACOG yourself, you are at a huge advantage, especially at range, with them not being able to know for a fact where bullets are going.
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Smoke:

Number 1:

Some will say you should anchor as Smoke, others that you should lurk, others say Smoke can roam too if you want to do that. The reason for the confusion is that Smoke has basically everything in his kit, he is the only defender that has barbed wire, a really strong gun, landscaping capabilities including being able to open hatches, and still have a good gadget which is also a lethal throwable to finish off out-of-reach injured enemies. You can do whatever you want as Smoke (excluding maybe extreme distance engagements, which really don't matter much since you're on the defender side). Use this to your advantage, you should 100% be abusing Smoke’s vertical potential to lurk above the objective or above key rooms in your team’s setup by looking down at doorways. Create tons of lines of sight, including at ankle height; and connect multiple holes to be able to cover a door or window from safe anchoring spots.

Look:













Number 2:

On compatible sites on Bomb, such as consulate office or hookah lounge on coastline, to shotgun out the floor on default plant positions, and then barbed wiring on top of the metal beams to 1) discourage attackers from planting standard placements and risk planting on more open areas, 2) having clearer sound coming from above, from the site; and 3) to be able to gas them from below (this really comes into play when there’s no room above objective (such as the example of consulate office I just gave), and the site is so breached up that defending from inside of it is not an option.

Number 3:

Running the Primary SMG isn't useless, it has a completely different range-damage curve than the SMG11, and if you know how to and get used to using both in conjunction you'll be able to tell which angle or situation needs which. Additionally, I recommend giving the Primary SMG a suppressor to further differentiate its use from the SMG11.
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Mute:

Number 1:

The effect of a Signal Disruptor can be visualized as a cylinder; the radius you can see in the red ring indication; the height is the same as a metal reinforcement. By using this you can jam certain spots from the floor below if you place the jammer on some table (or anything of that sort); this means you can jam a doorway from drones with no visible jammer (especially good against Shock drones for obvious reasons), and for some cases, jam hatches (like the popular Oregon basement hatch and Consulate’s Bathroom-Garage hatch).





Number 2:

You should always try to keep Jammers out of view, since the effect goes through walls; you can hide them through corners making it impossible for enemies to eyeball their radius to bypass them when droning.



Like this, covers the door to the right with no visible signal disruptor.



Number 3:

Since Jammers don’t jam downwards, you can place them with their radius overlapping the last step up a staircase; and drones driving up from them will not get jammed until they are in the same height level as the jammer, making the range impossible to predict. It looks like a floating ring when you go to place it:



Keep in mind when you are placing your jammer on furniture and so on to try and jam a particular spot on the floor above; drones will be able to drive inside the radius as long as they are under the jammer level. If the jammer is on top of a table, drones can drive right under it with no negative effects. Keep an eye on this if you’re looking to jam a hatch, so you don’t get droned in the floor you’re in because you thought your jammer would cover the area.

FBI SWAT (The Ones Looking At My Emails I Think)

Ash:

Number 1:

Play from below. Drone looking for the most anchor-y spots, like Mira windows, or people camping dirty angles, and shoot a breaching charge under their feet. If they get caught in the explosion, they’ll be injured, and you can just finish them off by wallbanging the ceiling. Worst case scenario you can use your second breaching charge. If none of that comes to be, at least you can shoot the mirror canister/make people not anchor from that particular position, just from the risk of being shot in the breaching hammer from below.

Number 2:

Learn to one-hit-vault barricades, this is generally a must for all rush/metastasis operators, especially Ash. It just allows you to travel faster. Hit the place where I'm aiming at in the pictures; when you get it right, it takes out 4 pieces of wood, which makes the vault prompt appear with 1 hit. If you're hitting the right spot and its taking out less than 4 pieces of wood, try standing a little further away so the melee hit isn't as precise.

* For doors:







* For windows:






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Number 3:

Ash’s breaching shot fits through a single bullet hole. By aiming down sights and making a hole with your primary, then switching to the launcher and not moving your aim even a pixel, you’ll be able to shoot the charge through the surface. The scenario where this is useful is very rare, but I’ll explain with an example. Normally you run flashbangs as Ash so you could tell an ally to place the breaching charge from this next example for you, and blow it on your command: Note, you HAVE to ADS with the breach launcher for this to work, otherwise the shot will not align with the bullet hole and you’ll blow the wall in front of you instead.









Number 4:

To get the most out of Breaching shots that you intend to use to navigate (aka just making holes between rooms to rotate), learn the spots where the wall connects (as in 90°) with other rooms, this way you can use a single shot to connect multiple rooms, and also not leave such a big hole that could mean a roamer gets unwanted lines of sight on whoever may be with you (maybe you’re staying in that room attacking vertically for example or with a teammate).






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Thermite:

Number 1:

For the Thermite charge to go off, the wall must not be electrified at the moment of it being completely placed or fizzling. For Bandit to kill your charge he either has to place the battery while you’re placing the charge, and the shock will break your charge once you finish placing it. If you place it and set it off, and Bandit tries to place his battery then, he’ll not be able to stop the charge as the fuse is shorter than the time it takes Bandit to set up his Shock Wire.

Some Thatcher players just spam down all their EMPs trying to time it so at least one of them goes off at the same time as your charge is finished being “placed” so that even if a Bandit times the battery properly, it’s instantly taken out by the EMP.

But there’s a way that saves EMPs and also is far less likely to fail. Listen up:

First, you have to bait Bandit into placing a Battery, you can do this in many different ways; 1) You can stand next to the wall and pull your thermite out without sticking it to the wall (which makes a zipper like sound that is generally sign of a Thermite about to place his charge); 2) If you are using Advanced Gadget Placement (which you aren’t, but you might wanna try it just for this), is to actually place the charge but don’t let Thermite finish the animation; which essentially from Bandit’s point of view sounds exactly the same as a charge being placed; except for some reason he’s not getting the points for the charge being destroyed. The only way Bandit could know you’re baiting him with a cancelled charge placing is if there’s a Valkyrie cam somewhere outside and someone is making callouts for him, but realistically this is just non-existent.

Once you’ve managed to make Bandit electrify the wall, instantly start placing the charge on the wall (this time for real), you will take damage but the charge won’t be destroyed until you’ve finished placing the charge. During this time is that the EMP MUST GO OFF. The battery is EMPed before you finish placing, and then you instantly set the thermite off. Since Bandit cannot place a battery while his other battery is still active; you basically block his battery-tricking window with his own battery.

Advanced Gadget Deployment improves Thermite's ability to counter Bandit Tricks drastically.

Number 2:

The thermite charge does not really “break” the wall it is on. The charge just creates an explosion that is programmed to break reinforced walls, exactly the same as Hibana pellets. And many of you probably know this already but you can use the explosion of a thermite charge to break reinforced surfaces that are not the one the charge itself is placed on. This can be used to bypass electrified walls and have them open despite the fact.





Make sure you're still not too close to the electrified wall because it will kill the charge even if it's not in contact with it.



This doesn't kill the shock wires so the "air" where the wall used to be is still electrified for some reason:

FBI Defenders (Steam Character Limit On Last Section)

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Pulse:

Number 1:

When looking for heartbeats to track, swipe your scanner without much care across walls and look for a +5 Cardiac Sensor notification. The heartbeats are reduced in size, opacity, and they blink and and out from the scanner; this makes it so if you just swipe quickly you will most likely miss a long-range signal if you’re not paying attention to the +5 notification. The game checks for the initial heartbeat way more precisely and faster than your eyes, so abuse that.

Number 2:

Unless you’re playing from under and against a person planting the defuser, enemies will constantly move at least fast enough to make you miss your Nitro Cell. When possible, it’s better to pre-place the Nitro and watch the enemy move, when they start going towards the nitro position, put away the scanner and follow where the heartbeat was with your eyes to predict their position; this reduces by far the time it takes you compared to putting away the sensor, pull out the nitro, throw it and then pull out the phone and detonate it. You can recover your Nitro Cell by breaking the soft ceiling around it.
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Castle:

Number 1:

A decent rule of thumb to use your reinforced barricades is to think the following way: The point of Castle walls is to make it awkward for enemies to go through, they have to stop, place a breaching charge or whatever to then be able to pass. You must try, at least when possible, to make it so you have something to gain from enemies being delayed by your barricades other than just giving you 3 extra seconds. This means having lines of sight to boths sides of the barricade, or at least the potential for them; so that enemies don’t attempt to breach it or run very real risks when doing so. Placing the barricades facing the exterior completely wastes their potential as (unless you’re running out like a madman), there’s no risk for the attacker to just take the barricade out and move on. If there’s a barricade in the middle of the objective though, things change.

Make sure you ruin movement routes and lines of sight that favor attackers as much as possible; while creating alternatives that favor defenders (with your impact grenades) at the same time. Even if this means closing a door and making an impact hole right next to it; it may result in overall better angles favoring defenders.

Number 2:

There's two ways of playing Castle; within the walls, or outside the walls. When playing outside the walls (which is totally viable btw, even if Castle isn't seen as a roamer (he isn't seen as anything tbh), viable as in, it doesn't really matter if you die roaming, not as in, he's got the best gun or stats TO roam; but anyway), get used to running around with the Meusoc (the 1911), in your hand; not only this will help you move faster, since your only a 2 speed, but it also has very solid close range damage, and extremely fast snap to ADS; which you'll need to react to random attackers popping up when sprinting from one outside door to the site to the next. This also applies to Pulse, and Ash; as 3 speeds.

GIGN (3 Fat Boys & An Egg)

Twitch:

Number 1:

Always always try to take your drone to where you’re going to spawn (or take the drone to any attacker spawn and change your spawn to that one). As Twitch it is best to not drone during the prep-phase as 1) You don’t want to lose your drone, 2) Anchors won’t know there’s a Twitch and you’ll be free to go in site and break stuff once they are expecting attackers, not drones.

Number 2:

Your shock drone is not supposed to be use as a regular “let’s look around indefinitely” drone. It also isn’t meant to be used as an EMP grenade. Twitch is actually tied for my most played attacker and what I tell my friends that are getting into Siege so that they “get” how Twitch is supposed to be played is that she is basically a two-element fragger. Her main purpose is to kill, and the shock drone is designed to be a personal tool to aid in that objective; much like Zofia’s Stun Launcher, or a Ying’s Candelas. You use it in tandem with your movement to get the most out of it; this means that a textbook Twitch round features a shock drone that isn’t too far from the Twitch player, and they are using it constantly on and off to quickly check corners, tase people to distract them when they push an entrance; to take out a trap that is in the way (as opposed to taking out every single trap you come across); small tasks that could present a risk if you were to do it yourself by peeking into the room. Another reason the drone is so good for this is because it rolls silently; making it perfect for quick mid-round usage (the fact that it’s silent and it has the option of tasing someone to direct their view in some particular direction makes it so people can’t do to you what I put in the Rook section).

Also, if you followed my first tip then you have 2 drones for this which is generally enough to help you throughout the whole round. And even have the option available to do longer drones near the end of the round (like when in 2v1 where you want to play safe and drone the last defender as much as possible for your teammate’s safety).
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Montagne:

Number 1:

Forget about your pistol, your teammates are your primary weapon. Stick by them and don’t unextend your shield unless people turn their back on you and are reloading. An extended Monty is a way bigger threat than a hip firing Monty. You’re picking the operator to be a literal wall so don’t be upset if you’re only standing around, that’s the point of the operator.

Number 2:

If you’re with a teammate and you come across an enemy, don’t try to shield your friend from enemy fire unless they are planting. You will be shot in the back. Instead of strafting into fire with A and D; walk forward towards the enemy; this reduces the vision he has of your ally, and your ally will have a pretty good idea of where you're going since you’re going in a straight line. They can predict your trajectory even by glancing at you.

Number 3:

Melee is your true gadget as Montagne, but its not easy to just dome people's head in and out because un-extending can lead you to get meleed yourself and then being open and killed.

Two ways of getting better at killing at melee. 1) Footsies. Get close to the enemy while extended, then when un-extending, back out from their melee range, and start buffering your melee as you walk forward to them; melee animations have start-up and recovery frames; manage yours and the enemy you're facing to melee them during their recovery, and start your animation from outside the range. 2) Arm Block. After getting meleed while unextended the shield goes to your left side hand side; and your back arch with your cursor; while sideways the shield also tilts upwards slightly. It doesn't lose its collision box though; so it still blocks bullets, and it also blocks melee hits without starting another flinch animation. After getting hit, turn roughly 70° to the right; and rise your mouse up so Monty's head lashes back with the shield, this will protect your chest from getting melee'd or shot; and hide your head partially behind the top of the shield. You can still take some damage if they spray at you, but since you're 3 armor it will usually be far from lethal. If they happen to hit your head though you're toast.

Combine these two strategies; and know when to re-extend to not push your luck. 3 speed operators tend to not respect Montagne as much as slower ops, so them spamming melee and hipfire at you might kill you.

Number 4:

Reverse planting. For those who know what it is, do it. For those who don't; it isn't something special to Monty; or even shields; but shields, particularly a very defensive shield like Monty; fits the role better. In a nutshell, you don't really "have to plant the defuser" inside the bombsite; you only have to be inside it yourself. So, by facing backwards out of the room, you can plant with your heels inside the bombsite, and have the actual defuser way out of the room. This is specially useful if you're entering the site from a breached wall that leads to the exterior; like a garage. After planting out like that, attackers can defend the defuser from way safe positions; even 90° out the garage door, with zero need to poke their heads into the line of sight of the bombsite.
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Rook:

Number 1:

Train your brain to whenever you read PREPARATION PHASE up in the middle of the screen, to press your gadget button instantly wherever you are. Yes, this is a sarcastic tip only here so I’m not annoyed by you in the future.

Number 2:

Rook is all about standing your ground. The following is a very basic trick I’ve seen high skill players do (every once in a while), and this applies to all operators not just Rook obviously (I’m listing it here because it allows to anchor a little better).

What you do is simply listen carefully for when drones are rolling in to where you are, and when you hear it, turn your back and “hold” an angle way behind you somewhere, just act as if you aren’t holding the actual door you’re holding, and act like you didn’t hear the drone. As soon as you hear the drone stop, you turn back, and you go prone or crouch where you were; or just outright peek the person aggressively as they are going to be coming in expecting you in the other place. They have no reason to think you moved if you act like you didn't hear the drone at all.

When acting, stand completely still to reinforce this appearance of a mindless Rook that’s not “gonna just move as soon as I stop droning”.

Higher up ranks people may cook-frag you for doing this so beware. This tip is also in Mozzie's Section; though it works very similarly.
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Doc:

Before Burnt Horizon, picking up allies by hand and stimming afterwards lead to 90 total health from 1 stim, 50 from revive, 40 from stim. However, revives now only heal for 20; while stimming to pick up still heals to 75.

Reviving with a stim shot makes the stim shot be worth 55 Hp instead of 40. So ideally you should always go for it; after counting for all HP exchanges between teams, if you as Doc managed to pick up 3 stim-revives, you've heal for a total of 165 health instead of 120; that's extra significant if you're picking up people like Mira, Echo, Maestro, or yourself, who have more effective health per shot taken than a low armor.

Spetsnaz (These Guys Don't Need An Introduction)

Glaz:

When playing short range, don’t undo your flip sight; instead just switch to your PMM and back to the rifle as required. Unless you’re past 16 meters, the PMM actually has a better kill potential than the rifle; mainly because you can quickly fire down your whole mag really fast, adjust aim, get headshots easier at close range because of the reduced magnification; etc. As long as you get the required kill or injure before you whiff your whole mag empty and you’re forced to reload you’ll be totally fine engaging with a pistol (one of the best if not the best handgun available).

This is especially key for engagements that aren’t on your main pushing spots where you can rely on your rifle+smokes even in close quarters. You can’t be using smokes every time you push a defender, and you can’t be peeking corners with your slow-firerate big rifle against some 3 speed, SMG wielding fiend.
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Fuze:

Number 1:

Fuze’s cluster charge shoots 5 explosives, starting with the first one from the right at about 45 degrees and the last one being 45 degrees to the left, the third one being perfectly in the middle (gets shot perfectly straight). Instead of using the detonation as a literal cluster rain of explosive on people; drone first, and try to at least aim one of the pellets directly to a particular person’s position; and the rest of pellets in a way that will block the closest door or hallway; if that is not possible, then block the escape yourself with your body.

Number 2:

When fuzing the floor try to avoid standing right on top of the charge as it goes off, sometimes a pellet will get stuck between the floor plies and the metal beams inside the floor; detonating and killing you if you’re near it.
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Kapkan:

Place a barricade on the doorway you’ve just trapped, and then crowbar it down. This will leave a green wooden frame on the side of your EDD which covers the device itself, and also, for maps that are for example bright white or some other color or light that contrasts with the trap making it easy to spot; it will help camouflage the trap or at least make it stand out a little less.





See the trap down on the lower left?







Now that you have the frame:



The trap is concealed.

This trick is actually copyrighted to me believe it or not, so if you do the Kapkan barricade trick in a game you are legally obliged to like this guide; if you don’t then I’m afraid I will have to follow with the according legal action.

If you think this trick is cool, check out my full-length guide to Kapkan here, there's more stuff like this in it:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1315491080
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Tachanka:

Rely on your senses. Not your tech.

GSG9 (1 Buff Away From World Domination)

Blitz:

Number 1:

If you’re running Breaching charges by any chance, use them liberally to create ideal shield paths. Blitz is really the only shield op (I guess other than Recruit) that can really benefit from this style of play. In a nutshell a “shield path” is one with a lot of entrances-to-rooms by the corners or at least the furthest possible points from focus choke entrances; this allows you to just walk in as a shield because you’re avoiding the possibility of getting crossfire’d down.

Number 2:

Never ADS if an enemy is looking directly at you, from afar it is hard to tell when an enemy is ADSing (especially from behind your shield), and if they are; as you may be aware, they will see the shield move before you can; meaning if you ADS they will be able to shoot your head before you’ve completely ADSed at all. I’ve seen this a ton of times where a Blitz sees some guy standing still and thinks “oh good, free headshot” and just instantly get their head prefired the second they ADS. Play at shield and flash distance where your sprint and your melee more than anything, are threatening. Avoid any medium or long range trades with defenders. (Complement this tip with the previous one to get the most out of having a shield as a close quarters advantage).
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IQ:

Number 1:

Learn and play against the shapes you see on your scanner, the most important devices you can find are not up on the scanner for more than seconds at a time so you have to practice to quickly skim the building and know what you’re looking at and act accordingly.

It is important to take out Black Eyes, Jammers, EDD traps, Gu, all that; and also be aware of where Ela traps are to avoid the doorways. But IQ’s potential comes when being able to see actual enemy operators through the walls, this includes: People on their cams or Yokai, the Yokai itself, ERC7 on Vigil, and Pulse's scanner of course; and enemies during Logic Bombs. Also, learn and memorize how the device ping on your scanner relates to that person's head. That way you're not punching 15 bullets through the wall doing 2 damage each and missing your kill on Vigil cause you're hitting his back, or his arms.

Number 2:

Make use of your 3 speed and the recent buffs to Breaching Charge speed placement to play vertically when necessary; IQ is already a sort of side-line operator (even though you can definitely frag with her if you get used to her guns) so playing vertical might help you land kills on anchors, and to kill gadgets that weren't able to be wall-banged from the same floor as the sight.
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Bandit:

Number 1:

Learn to Battery trick consistently; and also, maybe even more important, learn when to forfeit your wall and play the round normally. It will save your life and it may save you rounds you think are lost just because your garage got breached.

Number 2:

As you probably know, the way sound works in Siege is that it finds the nearest entrance and travels through there instead of directly through the wall with a lower volume; as many other games do. It’s done this way so that holes in the terrain allow for the sound to travel through.

This characteristic is only true for actual map terrain however, and sound is not affected by other bodies in the game such as player models, things like deployable shields; and is affected but to a lesser extent, reinforced walls. The amount of plies in a wall also affects how the sounds travels through louder or not.

When going for battery tricks, reinforced walls add a second ply of surface of a wall, making it harder to listen through it. By removing the regular map wall and only keeping the reinforcement as your garage door, sound will travel more clearly through and you’ll be able to tell where the Thermite or Hibana charges are being placed more accurately. Ask for allies who are equipped with shotguns to blow out the garage before you start reinforcing it, that way you’ll be able to battery trick better.

If there are no shotguns on your side, you can just dump an MP7 mag on the wall to make a small-medium hole on the wall, that will at least help a little bit to clear up the muffled sound of the charge being placed on top of it.
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Jager:

Number 1:

Place your ADS as far as possible from the potential “throwing” spot of the grenade (or whatever it may be), this decreases the chance of the attacker hearing the ADS go off and also it makes it harder to track the white projectile line back to the ADS placement (The general idea is so attackers don’t realize immediately where the ADS is).

Number 2:

Learn to break barricades in these two layouts in order to improve your run out opportunities. You can use these barricades to quickly go in and out of the building without 1) making the characteristic “barricade being broken” sound; and also, 2) so you can run out from a doorway that looks closed from a lower angle. On many maps, you’ll be running out from above and this makes it so the door appears closed making the run-out completely unexpected.

* Prone Barricade (You can sprint up to it, tap prone quickly twice while walking forwards to get under it easily without having to drag your body under in a slow manner):







You run out and kill the enemy peeps. Meanwhile, this is what the door looks like from their POV:



* Crouch Barricade (Not as sneaky, but you can go in and out faster and it's less likely you get stuck outside when running back in, to avoid the detection timer):









All this also helps if you like to run out as Vigil, I personally use them most as Valkyrie complementing camera placements on the exterior of the building; but I wrote them under Jager because Jager lives the toxic life the most.

JTF2 (The Low Tech Heroes, Cold Version)

Buck:

Number 1:

Even if the C8 has wild recoil, do not equip a laser sight on it; it will reduce the bullet spread of the skeleton key and because of that you’ll be wasting additional time and ammo to open the same holes. Also, quick personal suggestion, try using the muzzle brake on the C8; and don't get spooked by the ACOG. There's a case to be made for 1x sights, since you'll have an easier time looking down vertically through the floor metal bars; your call.

Number 2:

The vast majority of maps have their floor metal beams in a North-South orientation. There’s very few exceptions where it is East-West, memorize them:

* House: Master Bedroom, Main Lobby.
* Oregon: Tower Second Floor East and West Catwalks.
* Plane: The whole plane, everything. (Except for the little closet thing that has a full square grid instead)
* Bank: Janitor Closet, CEO Office, Executive Lounge, Conference Room, Banana. (Lobby second floor, which is a curve, has the metal beams by sections and some of them are West - East, others are North - South, and the sections in between are diagonal).
* Kanal: Coast Guard Office.
* Skyscraper: Work Office, Lounge, Exhibition, and VIP.
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Frost:

Number 1:

If you’re committing to a particular position for your traps, be it a window or a teammate's deployable shield you’ve placed on a wall; place two traps in a single position. This is not just because you expect two people coming in, and getting two injures; but more to prevent those vault-and-break-the-frost-trap moments. With two traps, even the highest DPS attackers (like an R4C Ash for example) can’t kill both of them in just the time they are vaulting on top of them. When doing a double trap you must make 100% sure there are no possible lines of sight on the traps; even if people drone they won’t be able to destroy the traps with bullets unless they come through and get trapped themselves (or use a frag grenade; which can be countered with ADSs to some extent as well).

Number 2:

Placing your traps right under hatches is not as dumb as you think. When hatches are open, no matter if they are soft or reinforced, a flat bed of debris fall straight down, most of the time this covers the trap partially, and combined with a low contrast floor or a dark room (like nighttime Kanal’s Map Room), the chances of someone dropping without realizing is decent. I've also heard of people purposely breaking barricades by their traps to sort of cover them with the green pieces of wood, but honestly that's barely a thing; I don't attempt it myself.

Navy SEALs (The American Dynamic Duo)

Blackbeard:

Number 1:

When your health is really low, say, under 10 or 15, it is definitely viable to remove your rifle shield and instead of peeking slow, peeking corners very fast to gain superior peeker’s advantage. Given this is rather dependent on your ping and your enemy’s ping; is still a better option than getting 1 tapped on the shoulders for being so slow around a corner with your shield equipped.

Number 2:

Learn the difference between your model and your viewmodel. Your shield is not exactly where you think it is. Watch your death-cams and learn from what the enemy saw if you feel you’ve been cheated. You will learn how different the two perspectives can be. For example, moving forward in a prone position while ADSing looks like your face is completely behind the shield, but in reality it is way to the side of your right arm.
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Valkyrie:

Number 1:

When attempting Nitro Cell kills from below (using a camera that is on the floor above), it is better to place the Nitro Cell first (in whatever spot you think will work, generally it is near the doorways to the site above); then, after placing the Nitro Cell, ping the position with Z and quickly get on your cam, the yellow ping will be visible from the floor above and you’ll be able to know exactly where your Nitro Cell is, instead of having to eyeball it when on your camera. The yellow mark will fade, but you already know where it is and when you see the enemy on that area you just quickly get off the cam and Nitro.









Number 2:

As long as you don’t hit an indestructible beam (or you’re dealing with a hard surface), you can use your D-50’s destruction capabilities to bring down badly placed cameras that are out of reach, and also to reposition Nitro Cells you’ve stuck to the ceiling whenever you need to move them or you just wanna forfeit that particular placement:

BOPE (The Low Tech Heroes, Hot Version)

Capitao:

Number 1:

Smoke Bolts from your crossbow are the only smoke with infinite, precise range; and they are also the only smoke that is not destroyed by a Jager’s ADS. Use these two characteristics to take advantage of range and help your team that way.

Number 2:

Fire Bolts deal damage under them, so if you’re trying to kill someone behind cover, shooting it at the wall behind them, even at chest height when they are prone, will deal damage to them. This feature shines at killing people taking cover behind/under Mira windows that have been open; just shoot the edge hole and it will deal damage behind it. Keep in mind the Fire Bolt damage area is generally inconsistent (and that is the reason so many people avoid playing as Capitao).

Number 3:

Capitao shines at locking people out of site once the room is taken, for example when defending a defuser. If you still have them, use your Smokes to block the doorways, and then shoot the Fire Bolts right before the clouds, concealing it from the other side. The better option however, when possible, is wait as much as possible, and, again, using your range, put fire on the defuser and keep it going much how you would lock the site as Smoke when the time is running out. Capitao here has the same role.

Number 4:

Just like Ash’s breaching shots, Capitao bolts fit through a single bullet hole. This may be worthless information most of the time, but in a very specific situation such as defending a defuser through a wall; this could be the lowest risk way of getting a smoke through for example. Very rare though.
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Caveira:

Now this is a really special trick and it has nothing and everything to do with Caveira. What I mean by this is that this is a trick that is not particularly related to Caveira’s playstyle, but she is the only operator that can do this.

Basically, you’ve probably seen many kinds of murder holes in your time playing; and if you’ve been really unlucky, or played with a particularly map-savvy defender teammate, you may have come across one of these invisible boys:







The thing about bullet-made tiny murder holes is that when looked at from an angle, for example if you make them at crouch height and enemies are standing; their line of sight just stop at the width of the wall, and they can only really notice a contrast of color when they are looking in your direction and they are at the same height of the hole. This is where Cav comes in.

Caveira has a particular height that no other operator in the game has; normally for heads (and eyes) the only heights are standing, crouching, prone; all with their leaning variations (which are just a tiny bit lower than the regular straight alternatives). However Caveira has a fourth height that is achieved when using silent step while standing, which gives her a middle point between standing and crouching that no other operator has, essentially making the murder hole invisible to everyone except you while silent stepping. Let's look at this particular hallway, perfect for murder holes:





So here I am standing up and using silent step, which allows me to create this murder hole looking into the position I was standing in the previous picture.



Here is normal standing height which doesn't even allow me to see through the holes. This is true for both sides which basically means the murder hole is invisible even up close.

SAT (The Anime Guys, Not The Test)

Hibana:

Most casuals think you need to waste 2 X-Kairos charges to be able to crouch through a Hibana hole, and if you only have 1 you gotta put it as close as possible to the ground so you’re able to prone your way through.

You can actually crouch through a hole made with a single X-Kairos. No vaulting, no proning; just shoot it at the right spot and you’re golden. Look:

The "safe" setup is like so, you aim so the square is aligned with the bottom of the wall; and then keep your eyes on the reticle in the center.



Then move the square up a bit so the bottom of the red square is right where the reticle was.






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Echo:

Number 1:

As Echo, you're immune to Dokkaebi's Logic Bombs; but you're not immune to a camera hack. When Yokais get hacked, not only do enemies know where they are and can shoot them dead when necessary, but also, they can be used to relentlessly spot your ally defenders. If you see the chance, or if there's no that high of a risk associated with getting spotted at the time, you can always drop your Yokais from the ceiling and pocket them with F.

Then throw and stun/drone people out as you see fit. Also, throwing the Yokai allows it to travel horizontally silently and faster than driving it from one point to the other.

Number 2:

When interrupting plants, you often need more than just 2 stun shots; the best way to move your second drone to the plant position is to first stun with your first pre-set drone, then quickly swap; start driving it close or into the room, then swap back, stun your second shot with the first drone, and then stick the second drone to the ceiling, and wait for the third stun with that one; if that goes through; remove the first drone from the room.

The idea behind the juggle swap for drones is that 1) You only ever stick or unstick your drones right after stunning the enemy; this makes it hard to hear where the drone stopped and flew to the ceiling. 2) You only drive horizontally while the enemy is stunned, this is useful because, to start, the enemy's hearing is reduced, and also because it forces the enemy to look at the floor looking for the rolling Yokai, instead of at the ceiling looking for the first Yokai that stunned them; and if they do that, or even manage to break it, they missed the second one roll by, which even has more stun charges ready on it.

Number 3:

Use furniture and drone holes to conceal Yokais post-stuns. Often times after you stun an enemy, they will leave the room and then come back to kill the drone; as they leave, you can reposition your drone (as most do) but what I recommend is to drop it behind or under furniture or past drone holes instead of just re-positioning it on the ceiling. The attacker is already skimming the ceiling for the drone that shot them initially; so by putting the Yokai under a cupboard you're forcing to attacker to retreat a second time or to go prone looking for a ground drone in a room they've already gotten spotted in (which most won't do). The biggest problem with this strategy is that you can't keep Yokais grounded for too long because they are very loud and will get wallbanged through the furniture wood if you don't reposition them quickly.

GEO (The Last Season Before Operation REDACTED)

Jackal:

Number 1:

You can identify different operators by their footsteps without scanning, there are 4 different footsteps in the game and defenders are divided in those four groups.



You can use this to scan the right footprint when you see just a bunch of them together and you want to get a roamer in particular (Say if you have an A and a C footprint, you’re gonna want to scan the C to get their Vigil, instead of their Valkyrie, etc). I want to credit /u/Keyfacts for making the picture and running the tests, if you knew this info already it probably is from his original post.

Number 2:

By starting a scan on someone but not letting Jackal finish you can see the white line being created to the person in real time with the route they’ve travelled, you can use this to know where enemy roamers went without letting them know their position is compromised. Also, after you waste 2 of your scans, you can use the last one in this manner to prevent losing your gadget’s functionality completely. It’s not perfect since you cannot see the white line through walls, but if you got orange or even red prints, it can be used to see what door the enemy used to get in the room from further away than just following the prints.
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Mira:

Number 1:

You can place windows like this if you want:



If you wanna learn how to do it, I explain it step by step in this guide: https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1342047352
Number 2:

Everyone knows about removing the soft wall to increase your mirror field of view, but: You can remove the border of the reinforcement by placing the mirror to the very edge of the reinforced wall in order to peek on sharper corners:









Number 3:

You can use this removal of the reinforcement edge to create sliver/pixel angles between them and and indestructible terrain of the map by removing extra debris from the exterior side.

SDU (殺死你認識的每個人!)

Ying:

Number 1:

Ying is the only operator that can flash 2 places at exactly the same time, due to candela charging. The proper way to use this feature is to flash the room or place next to where you know there is an enemy first with a 3 light primed candela, and then throw a 0 light primed candela AT the enemy, this flashes both places at once so that when they move from one place to the other when running from the second candela, they run into the first one; then you can go into the room and do whatever you need to do.
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Lesion:

Everyone knows this but still nobody does it because it's a straight out gamble with no visible effect. Placing your Gu mines outside barricaded window sills. What happens is basically that since there’s no animation for taking a needle out while rappelling enemies are forced to either go all the way to the roof or the floor to take the needle out, dealing probably the most significant damage a Gu mine can do.

As you may already know Gu mines don’t need to be stepped on to activate but enemies can just be near them for them to work so people that set themselves by the window will get stung. Think about the windows that tend to have rappelling Blackbeards.

You’ve got to really get the Gu mine to the edge of the window sill otherwise when you place the barricade back the Gu mine will break.

GROM (Family Issues)

Zofia:

Number 1:

Unlike Ash, Zofia’s impact shots to breach have no delay on explosion (because they explode on impact obviously), this isn’t that much of a good thing because it doesn’t let you safely switch back to your primary and get ready for the breach. Your concussions however, yes they explode when they fly past an enemy; but they also have a timer which you can time when pushing, much like you would when playing Ash. Shooting a concussion to a particular place to “block it off”, if it doesn’t go off instantly, you can pull your primary and get ready for when it does.

You can also use the timer on concussions to shoot multiple in different doorways or rooms in a particular duration, and listen for the stun shots going off and know which one was triggered by a person, and know what areas are clear.

The fact that the impacts aren’t on a delay is good for a couple things, for example, you can destroy deployable shields instantly with unlimited range. Also its faster than Ash at destroying barbed wire (which is the main thing I personally use Zofia’s impacts for).

Number 2:

Again, like Ash breach shots and Capitao arrows, Zofia impacts and stuns go through bullet holes. You can do this to make stuns go into rooms without peeking in; and to bait people into checking rooms they think you’re in because of the direction the stun came in through from.

Number 3:

Play from below.

Number 4:

Circle is stuns, lines is impacts.




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Ela:

Number 1:

Abuse your thin hitbox by playing fast, there’s not much to this but playing very up close with your high fire rate and those extra 10 bullets from the Skorpion EVO over the K1A is what makes your pick worth it. You’ve got to be a freak peeking corners and running out to really get the most out of this pick.

Number 2:

Grzmot Mines detect enemy movement in a radius, but they don’t detonate in that same radius; they are actually affected by direction and the stun reaches further than the detection range. The way you use this to your advantage is hide or direct the mines in a way that they are aiming at the victim, not into the room; this will reduce the chance you or an ally is stunned by your mine when an enemy triggers it. The key to prevent unwanted self-stuns is to have an indestructible object between you and the trap, if so, and if line of sight is interrupted, you can stay inside the effect radius and be ok. So you can use something like an indestructible flower pot to hide just under your own trap and instantly follow it up.

One of the issues Ela has if you've played her is that it's hard to follow up on Grzmot detonations without being super obvious and getting prefired. Being this close without being affected definitely makes you a better ambush kinda operator than Lesion, which is quoted as the "better" alternative to Ela now that she is not a sickness.

707th SMB (That's Korea Just In Case)

Dokkaebi:

Number 1:

Just like Lion’s use of scans, Logic Bombs are not only distracting, give away enemy positions by sound, and “disable” enemies while they turn off phones (in quotes because you can interrupt turning your phone off; however even if you interrupt you still have to pull your gun out remember); but they will buy you time. Use them in time-tight moments, for example when defending an active defuser.

Number 2:

When the opportunity arises, always try and hack cameras, get in some corner and start marking every defender you see. This will make your team push faster and also make defenders start denying their own cameras. In some maps (because of cam placements) the amount of panic and control a Dokkaebi just swiping through cams constantly creates is underrated. You don’t have to be playing around and taking angles all the time; just like Twitch is free to drone if she wants, you’ll be fine just sitting for 20-25 secs and letting your team do the dirty work while doing the cam stealing which actually helps more than you think.
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Vigil:

Number 1:

When roaming and waiting for entries (“anchoring” rooms or entrances while roaming), tap your ERC to check for drone deceived marks, this will let you know if there are drones around you that are active, they only have to be in radius, line of sight is not required for the notification to pop up.

This is especially useful for the last moments of the prep-phase where people hide their drones in rooms for entry, and they are forced to man their drones causing the drone deceived notifications to pop up.

Number 2:

Vigil’s ERC, much like Mute’s signal disruptors have a cylinder shaped area of effect. For Vigil, it cover the floor above him too, this means drones in the floor above will get the white bars in their screen and they won’t be able to confirm if Vigil is in that room or the room under.

According to the test I conducted, this only works for 1 floor upwards, and not below vigil. Meaning that if you’re playing attack and you’re getting white marks, and you suspect Vigil is not in the same floor, he has to be below you.

As Vigil yourself you can abuse this a little bit by standing on stair breaks gaining some height advantage that will hide the white marks from drones in the floor right below.

Number 3:

Vigil's Slug Shotgun (The BOSG) can make holes on his ally Castle's Barricades. You have to shoot the same spot 3 times. With this you can make zany bullet-hole murder holes straight down hallways in any location that has a doorway.

Number 4:

Just like drones beep when around the active ERC-7. The ERC-7 buzzes when near a drone; use this to find drones hidden under or behind furniture.

CBRN (The Ones Nobody Likes)

Lion:

Number 1:

Scans are best used to make enemies waste time on key moments where they really want to be on the move; best examples are: Defending an active defuser, Countering a Caveira interrogation, during contested containers, or even better, capturing a container when defenders are out of site. I would add “when extracting a hostage” but honestly who cares about hostage. Save at least 1 scan for after planting or entering the secure area zone.

Number 2:

Try using the prep-phase to plan out an entrance route and learn good, room-watching, drone spots. When attempting to enter rooms, instead of droning in as you would (causing enemies to reposition), launch a scan, and go on your drone cam during the 3 sec warning, then breach in with at least a 90% certainty of what angle is being held, complement this with stun grenades if you have them. By not directly making a rolling drone noise to that particular room, that defender has no way of knowing the ee-one-d scan is “aimed” at them.

Number 3:

You can cancel the wrist animation with any other animation such as sprinting and going ADS. Use that go faster between rooms when using a scan.
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Finka:

Number 1:

On top of reducing the duration of negative effects such as flashes and grzmot stuns, Adrenal surge purges them off completely (including Yokai disorientation). If you’re facing the possibility of getting Yokai stunned, or a teammate just got stunned in a key moment, have the surge ready to purge the effect off on impact.

Number 2:

Finka has the option between Frags or Breaching Charges; which is a unique choice since the only other two operators with Frags also have built-in soft breaching capabilities. As Finka, you'll be taking the frags practically 100% of the time, and if you're playing away from your team, you'll see yourself in situations where you can't frag a person because there's a soft wall in the way, or maybe you're left locked out because you just don't have any way to breach.

If you played IQ back before she had her frags removed, then you remember how this plays out; to summarize, you CAN sacrifice frags for destruction in the following ways:

- Opening up soft-hatches.
- Opening up Castle's barricades.
- Breaching single-ply soft walls such as garages; just cook the frag so it detonates mid-air right on the surface and it will create a vaultable hole); single ply walls don't require that much precision on the timing.

Number 3:

Once again regarding frags; there's this thing called a "feet throw"; which even if not exclusive to Finka; you may see yourself using it more often as her than the other frag operators.

Feet throws are just really slow rolling frags you can use to get nades through air vents, drone holes and under barricades. To prevent the frag from bouncing off the floor you just walk right up to the hole and throw the frag almost-straight down at your feet; the weight of the frag forces it to not bounce since it doesn't adquire airborne horizontal momentum; but it does force itself to roll (which makes it impossible to accidentally hit the edge of the hole).

Try these whenever you can, maybe attacking Coastline's Aquarium? :)

GIS ("The Best Season Since Velvet Shell")

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Alibi:

Number 1:

There’s two main ways to place holograms; for forced hits, and as bait or clutter. When placing holograms as bait or clutter, meaning, trying to add more and more elements to distract the enemy, don’t place them looking at the enemy (or the predicted location of an enemy).

By now everyone knows what holograms look like, and experienced players will be able to look past them and not even be distracted by them without spending a fraction of a second thinking it through. The standing non-leaning ADS pose that holograms have is very easy to spot, and there’s not much you can do to conceal it but placing the holograms backwards.

I personally do this and it leads to holos getting shot far more than I expected, the thing is that showing the back of the hologram will 1) Make people more likely think they found a defender they didn’t account for, hence him being out of position, and 2) It hides Alibi’s no-skin no-attachments weapon that gives away holograms being holograms. Still I wouldn’t call this the best way to utilize holograms, or that clutter is better than forced hit setups, but if you’ve already ran out of forced hit spots remember placing holograms looking away from the potential angle the attacker may take.

Number 2:

Forced hit spots are any place that involves holograms as an obstacle that can’t be removed and forces the attacker to trigger the hologram, getting spotted to the defenders.

The following spots are forced hits:

After an indestructible non-rappellable window; by placing the prisma right up to the window wall, no part of the prisma structure will be visible from past the window, forcing a hit on vaulting attackers. Countered by EMPs, Twitch Drones.

After deployable shields on narrow doorways, ala Frost. Alibi in fact has a deployable shield of her own, and by taking the Bailiff as your hatch-opener and leaving the impacts you can create a forced hit situation on any door you please; this is particularly viable on tight maps with a single or maybe just a couple doorways into site. It doesn’t have to be on site either, you can take this setup and place it somewhere you’re planning to lock down roaming, like a top floor or zone near the objective and place it there; for example, on Plane’s kitchen, or in Theme Park’s initiation room hallway (and a second holo on the office’s window. If you’re blocking a really key transit point with this technique, you can go for double holo; and place one on each side of the shield, meaning no matter what side the enemy is on, they’ll have to destroy one hologram and then take a forced hit. Countered by explosives (Zofia, Frags), and other gadgets that destroy deployable shields (like Maverick’s Torch); and of course, EMPs and Shock Drones.

On top of ladders. Make sure the prisma edges are not visible from below, but do make sure the holo’s leg is all the way as close as possible to the ladder well; as it's the most likely this is what the enemy will hit when going up. There’s no many spots for this on most maps (thankfully ladders are not common); but again, Plane comes to mind. When a players gets to the top of a ladder, they get the transition “getting out of the pool” animation which locks them into moving forward, then its a forced hit.

Behind Mira Windows; while technically not a forced hit; placing holos as if they are manning a Mira window can be helpful for your team during retakes. First, if an attacker manages to flank behind and get a clear shot to the back of the mirror, the hologram will be covering the canister; the attacker then has to risk shooting at the canister through the holo, getting spotted and also potentially missing it from a long distance and giving away his position at the same time. Second, once and if the mirror ever gets opened, the hologram head will cover a decent portion of the stuff going on behind the mirror; 1) Making it a little bit safer to peek from it, 2) Protecting any anchors in-site that may have forgotten that particular window was opened or have no choice but stay in the line of fire from it. The hologram head will at least to some extent obstruct the vision into the site from afar (or legs and crotch in case the mirror was at crouching height). Third, there’s no harm on having the hologram there since it automatically turns off every time a real defender starts manning the window. Fourth, if you shoot open the canister either to shoot from the window or as bait to peek another doorway or window; attackers that heard the canister pop will pre-aim and even pre-fire the dropping mirror; which will cause them to be marked by the holo.

Number 3:

Get used (as Alibi and when someone else is playing her) to shooting through her holograms. 99% of the time, holograms aren’t fooling anyone and you’re not “blowing their cover” by shooting through them. Instead, you’re making better use of the fact that they only mark enemies, having unseen prefires (even if you aren’t sure you might hit an attacker) will keep them on their toes from a second potential prefire; while they can’t do that as comfortably back since they’ll be marked.

Number 4:

When placing holograms for forced hits, throw the prisma at a slight angle so that when it unfolds it goes as sideways as possible; this will prevent the unfolding prisma from bumping the wall or deployable shield; making it possible to place it even closer to the window/shield, to ensure a forced hit).
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Maestro:

Number 1:

When browsing around in cams, open their cover so you can listen through more clearly. Especially higher-register sounds that tend to get cut off by the Evil Eye “closed lid” sound filter.

Number 2:

When cameras are hacked by Dokkaebi, make sure you aim your Evil Eyes from your team and the bombsite when you finish using them; and move them so as soon as you see they’ve been hacked to start.

Number 3:

Always place Evil Eyes at a safe distance from barricades, commonly breached walls, and large sets of choke point barbed wire; since these are magnets for Ash’s and Zofia’s projectiles and your Evil Eye might get caught in the radius of an explosive.

Number 4:

Whenever possible, get on top of furniture or drop to ledges from the top floor in order to place Evil Eyes away from the floor. This will, first of all, give you better vision with them; but it will also keep them safe from rolled frags thrown into the bombsite; and it will take much longer or even prevent Sledge from bashing the cam.

CHALET EXAMPLE

Number 5:

Placing both Evil Eyes covering similar angles within the same bombsite is not a bad idea if said bombsite is commonly the easier plant; and has a single or just a couple prominent default-plant spots. These are generally bad bombsites to defend, but two Evil Eyes covering default allows you to taze people and swap between both of them keeping the cams safe and the pressure on the plant at the same time. When rounds go down to a single attacker, planting in this sort of scenario is pretty much undoable. Make sure they are more than 90° of view from one another, otherwise it can be rather easy to just flick between one or the other as they open. And also, so they don’t get caught in the same EMP grenade or explosive, or whatever.

R6 MAPS CHALET SITE & KAFE PASTRY

Number 6:

Fairly basic but, make sure whatever you’re placing the Evil Eye on isn’t a destructible entity, such as piece of glass, a flat screen TV, or some wall decoration, since those get shot broken and the Evil Eye will despawn if the surface is modified (as in destroyed from its original form).

SKYSCRAPER KARAOKE, BANK SERVER SITE, PAST

GSUTR (R.I.P. Hereford Base)

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Maverick:

Number 1:

Making single canister crouch-holes isn’t as difficult as it looks, actually, it’s easier and probably faster than Hibana’s crouch trick; since you don’t have to pre-line it up.

The only real thing you must know is that the lower-sens holding right click gives you as Maverick when holding the torch out isn’t the maximum speed you can create uniform holes with; in fact, I’d say you can go about twice as fast and still have perfectly cut holes with no bits of debris in the way. Get used to finding this speed when standing still.

When you have to move with WASD, even crouch-walking speed is too fast to create a uniform hole, so you have to mix ALT-walking in and also keep the flame facing the wall and not as diagonally as you would normally whenever making a WASD adjustment.

My recommendation is for people to practice making some of these circles in a custom game, since getting the speed right really isn’t hard and you should be getting it consistently within the first 5 to 10 tries.

Use the fuel meter to check if you’re going too slow. If you get an uneven hole then you went too fast; it’s better to be too slow than too fast. If you’re slow you’ll maybe waste 1.5 canisters; if you go too fast you’ll have to reload and fix the debris, which can get you shot from the uneven hole you just made.

Starting at 12 o'clock and going counterclockwise; you should have half the fuel meter by 6 o'clock. If you don’t, then go faster, and if going faster creates debris, then make the hole smaller. Going counterclockwise is safer than clockwise since the torch won’t spend too long at the starting point. After you figure it out it’s all muscle memory. This is a good reference hole; remember this when eyeballing for the right size:

MAVERICK HOLE.

Number 2:

Remember your torch will instantly (frame tap) destroy anything labeled “Bulletproof”. Deployable Shields, Evil Eyes, Bulletproof cameras; takes almost no fuel and helps your team’s push quite a lot.

You can also open non-reinforced hatches almost instantly with a few taps, its near silent and takes about 10% or a canister to do; also a useful timesaver for your team.

Number 3:

Castle Barricades will break instantly after they’ve sustained a certain amount of damage; with your torch in hand you must try to get it to reach this point without opening a hole for defenders to shoot you from. Start from the very top of the barricade and work your way down; it will shatter before you get to head height. Watch your feet though.

You can also stop before it reaches the shattering point and use the overhead hole to chuck flashbangs in.

Number 4:

Reinforcements are metal sheets with two (true) anchoring points, the top and bottom bars. This is easy to tell if you destroy the soft wall behind a reinforcement sheet and inspect it in all it’s nakedness.

NAKED REINFORCEMENT SHEET

Destroying these top & bottom support bars will actually cause the reinforcement to despawn.

The issue is that the only way as Maverick to reach the top bar is to rappel, and this option isn’t always available. Plus, after the reinforcement despawns, it's still helpful having a soft breacher to speed up the process; which otherwise is just you dumping mags at the wall or wasting even more fuel (it’d be better to just make a crouch circle instead from the beginning).
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Clash:

Number 1:

Spin to win actually works. Un-extending your shield and turning your back on enemies while your weapon change animation is playing is 100% viable and I dare say, when combined with regular use of cover and crouching + good aim; the best way to engage extreme 1v1 situations as Clash. Never do it when the enemy is ADSed on you.

Number 2:

Getting bashed is actually not that bad if you’ve got reserve power on the CCE. When Clash gets bashed she leans backwards and rightwards, and her shield goes to her slight right and tilts away from the floor. During the flinch animation, turn about 40° to the left and look at the floor so that Clash’s head doesn’t protrude as much to the back. Since her flinch doesn’t expose her head, and she’s 3 armor. You can generally survive a bash with more than half health left just from being shot in the leg.

During the animation you should be holding down left click so the CCE tazes immediately and you can walk away though; otherwise you’ll get combo-bashed and that will kill you for sure. Facing 3 speeds, as usual, is trickier cause they can orbit around you and get a clear shot; so keep that in mind.

Operators with small mags tend to reload after bashing and failing to kill Clash during the bash, so this may be your chance to un-extend while spinning towards them, and get a knife or just a regular kill on them.

GIGR (The Quarantined)

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Nomad:

Before shooting your Airjabs by doorways as traps, consider the strength and direction of the potential launch. The Airjab pushes operators out about a full double radius distance; if hit exactly sideways. If you’re not looking to have the enemy pushed so far away that they are almost getting up or even fully up when you go check the triggered trap; place the trap higher up, so the launch angle isn’t as drastic.

Placing the airjab dead center on top of a doorway will also reduce the chance of it being accidentally destroyed by an impact nade or so on.
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Kaid:

Number 1:

Before setting an electroclaw on reinforced walls; shoot the floor (if soft) at a wide angle and break the top ply, then place the electroclaw under the floor. This will first of all kind of hide it from view, but more importantly it will protect it from being destroyed by Shock Drones. They can still reach it, but they have to go up close and its a kinda precise shot people wouldn't go for in like a 10 second mid-round droning.

(PICTURE BANK CEO)

If you have the time, you can also hide it on the ply below; from downstairs; this will 100% protect it from shock drones but there could be a small chance someone sees it by accident and breaks it (depends on how light is the surface).

(PICTURE BORDER ARMORY FROM BELOW)

Number 2:

Kaid’s Semi-Auto Slug Shotgun is, after all, a shotgun; so even though it plays amazingly on short ranges (and low-medium ranges), it has the damage curve of a shotgun and will fall off drastically with distance. To this add the fact that the recoil becomes rather noticeable when spamming semi-automatically and the gun becomes relatively unreliable, and deceivingly so, considering it’s usually ran with an ACOG on it. There’s not much to it, just keep this in mind at all time and try to force enemies into situations that benefit you and this gun in particular; in which a couple body shots get you an injured and you can react to 3 speeds extremely fast due to not really having to aim any further than center of mass. Removing the suppressor I've felt helps with this a lot, so try that if you seem to land 3+ hits past mid-range and not getting an injure.
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SASR (Australian Zarya & The Guy From Trials Fusion)

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Gridlock:

Number 1:

Trax deploying are incredibly loud, and they will drown out or mask the sounds of footsteps, and the sound of a defuser being planted.

Throwing Trax stoppers out before going for a plant is already beneficial; it forces the defender into a decision (if they want to break the Trax or go another route wasting time or risking running into a preset angle by an attacker), it will notify you if the defender is in the vicinity if you hear the stoppers being shot out or if you hear an impact explosion; and in extreme cases, it will damage or injure/kill super lit defenders desperate to break through.

When a Trax is deploying, it bounces the stoppers off walls and each time a stopper dupes it plays a loud metal clunk that can be heard clearly through walls and floors. Other than maybe LMG suppressive fire, this is the loudest and longest (because it keeps going until all stoppers are out) sound-mask you can use to conceal a defuser plant & defuser beep.

Throwing multiple Trax sets out at once will make the noise even more significant, and it will hide the quiet moments of each with the other. CLUNK clunk CLUNK clunk. Also Gridlock has smokes on top of all that; so good luck retaking a site from her and her scoped LMG. Make sure to throw them apart from one another. Maybe one at the site entrance and one right on top of you as you plant; it will serve to defend the planted defuser and by the time you’re finished planting more than half of the stoppers will be all set out already. One single Trax can lasts for a whole defuser planting animation with a handful of seconds to spare.

Number 2:

Trax are not to be used to slow down entries (like Barbed Wire); it just doesn’t work the same because Trax are easily destroyed from a range. Instead, Trax are best used to block connectors.

Many bomb-sites consist of only two sideline halls or rooms, these are the sites where an attacking Gridlock shines the most, as she can close off at least one of them by using all 3 Trax in one location.

(KANAL MONITORS EXAMPLE)

This forces defenders to rotate into servers through the in-site connector, which is tighter and harder to maneuver in; and so easy to cover by an operator, especially if you smoke screen it.

Number 3:

Space out each Trax enough from each other, if their range of deployment clashes they will not stack on top but delete the ones that wouldn’t fit; leading to the end result of having less stoppers deployed in total.

(PICTURE)

Number 4:

To improve the full deploying speed of the Trax, try landing the can as far as possible from obstacles such as rails, walls, furniture; because these will force the next stopper to deploy further away, taking longer to reach full-deployment. If it is a hallway you’re looking to cover, landing the can in the very middle is important to have the trax deploy quickly and evenly.
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Mozzie:

Number 1:

During the prep-phase, shoot your Pest device on double-barricades, so that the radius reaches both sides of the door. If it doesn’t get a drone by the end of the prep-phase, recover the Pest shot from it and have it on you or place it somewhere else.

(PICTURE CONSULATE DOUBLE DOOR)

Number 2:

Shoot drones directly.

Pest-spiders can miss their mark. If a drone that comes within the radius manages to quickly break line of sight, the Pest will not latch on and the drone will go on free. Also, spiders that latch on automatically (that were pre-set as traps) will have a load time of a couple of seconds before Mozzie gains control of the drone.

By shooting the pest straight at the body of the drone, without having the pest shot deploy on the floor at all; the drone will be hacked immediately and it will have 0% chance to miss.

Also, pre-placed Pest spiders will alert nearby enemy drones of their presence with a HUD indication. You can bypass this too just by shooting it manually.
You do have to aim at the drone and be a precise shot, but the hitbox for the Pest launcher on drones is very forgiving (more than regular bullets).

I recommend that those Pests that didn’t get a drone during Prep-phase you pick up and keep on your person during the round, then while roaming you can use them as direct hacks or as blockers to prevent getting droned out (like blocking a door or a drone hole so attackers don’t find you, say, playing vertically with the Super Shorty).

Shooting directly at shock drones is the safest way to ensure you get one at all, Twitch players will be paying attention to the warning HUD and also zapping Pests out from out of their range; so keep your eyes peeled.

Number 3:

After getting a hack, move the drones.

People who are droning during the action phase will often go for a similar point of entry as they did their droning; so if you happen to get a hack somewhere you want to make sure the drone you hacked is out of the entry route of the original owner, so it doesn’t get destroyed quickly afterwards. If you have time, get the drone back inside the bombsite (more about this in a second); if not, put it somewhere where an attacker cannot possibly have time to check, like under a bed, behind furniture or high on top of shelves, etc. Drone holes are also 100% safe for your Mozzie drones; as even if they have a Twitch that could zap your drone broken, attackers have no way to tell if a drone is hacked unless it is being actively controlled at the time, and they see it’s lights.

Number 4:

Keep at least one live drone in one of the bombsites (or some hiding spot between them).

Hacked drones make for very valuable tools for retakes, they can be moved around between the bomb rooms quite quickly, they can be used to harass a clutching attacker by spotting them over and over, and as an overall distraction, which when paired with call-outs to your team can lead to very easy and safe peeks on in-site attackers. Also its just very hard to pull off a sneaky defuser plant with a camera following you around and not being able to kill it cause you have to watch the doors as well. Also it comes unexpected when as an attacker, the camera spotting you is on the floor and not in the ceiling or walls.

Eyes on the inside also let you check for Nomad traps on the inside of door frames in the site faster and more efficiently that Yokai drones which is a bit of a blessing in this meta.

Number 5:

Create your own drone holes with the Super Shorty. Connect a bunch of rooms so you can drive quicker back to site, and set up Pest traps in between these connections so enemy drones can’t make use of them to find you back.

Number 6:

Use general drone tech as Mozzie on the defending side. Not exclusive to Mozzie obviously: See the next section.

Drone Tech (For & Vs)

"Drone Tech" is just a fit-all term I use to talk about ways to use your drone & how to use enemy drones against them (not necessarily as Mozzie, but as baiting/giving up confusing info, mixing attackers up, etc).

These apply to any operator of course, it more so comes down to how you play (deep roam / anchor / etc.) than your particular operator.
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Pre-Jump:

The pre-jump trick or the drone jump bait trick is something entry-fraggers on the higher ranks might be familiar with especially if they tend to solo queue or drone for themselves.

The trick basically consists of making a defender drop their guard for even just 2 seconds in order to go through a door or entrance you know for a fact is being watched or pixel-angled on. Basically you drive the drone towards the enemy, then spot them, and after that, turn the drone 90° while still moving towards them (this hides the red lights; and then jump as high as you can with the drone and instantly come off your obs-tool, then peek the person.

What this does basically is, since it's obvious when a person is driving their drone (cause it's moving and the lights turn on), is hide the exact moment in which you actually get off the drone (the lights can’t be seen and the drone is in-midair so you can’t tell if its being controlled or not until the wheels hit the ground).

Before the drone even hits the ground, you can peek the person, and if they let their guard down for the drone spotting them you could at least be on equal-chances in a gunfight instead of them instantly killing you as you come through the door.

If you don’t use these kinds of bait tricks as an attacker then start doing so, and use them while playing Mozzie too when you retake a site or whenever the opportunity arises.

Another way of distracting the angle-holder is jumping the drone straight through them, since they’d have to do a 180° to break it and still then they can’t see the lights of it because it's got its back turned on them; and they will have their back turned on the angle for you to kill them. Harder to make it work though, the person holding the angle has to be kind of an idiot to fall for it.

The reason I really like the vertical jump bait (especially doing it next to an object like a piece of furniture) is that it looks like I missed the angle on the jump, and faking incompetence right before going for an advanced piece of bait like that will throw a lot of people off.

Spotted Bait:

End Note

That's it! For those that haven't realized, this is actually the same guide, just updated for like 1 year of content; it took some work so let your friends know :D

I can't promise this will be kept updated as every season comes out, but I have updated it right now so good enough eh?

Leave a comment if you want, I do read em cause they get sent directly to my Steam. See you guys on the next one. #TeamRainbow

[Meow Meister]

what about nighthaven?

[Goo]

I mean yeah, it's a lot of work and I have more important issues to attend to at the moment.

[theMrWart]

its been more than a year since the last update, have you decided to stop updating this?

[Goo]

@rc Still working on some stuff (like the lines in ALL CAPS LIKE THAT) are meant to be screenshots that I haven't taken yet. Gimme a week I'll probably have it done. Plus there's Drone Tech that I haven't re-written yet.

[:3]

Sick edit, nice work

[Goo]

@Last Impulse Thanks, as you can see I'm in the process of updating this so I'll fix that as well now that I'm editing.

[Last Impulse]

For twitch there is a typo; Very last paragraph it says drone the last attackers, even though twitch is an attacker herself; unless your going for that tk.

[:3]

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[TwoFaceTony]

This guide is already the best guide available. Even if it doesn't include every new operator, this guide has tons of helpful information and tactics for the operators in it. Unless people want to start paying the author for their time, they have no right to demand updates. There is already plenty of information here for free.

[Goo]

@UC_TheGamer Yeah sorry its not like I have a job, college, and have made guides more recent than this. r/ChoosingBeggars