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By wheel settings do you mean control bindings, or the advanced wheel settings? And does anything else fail to save? Regardless, try manually saving, under profile in the main menu. If not, try setting the whole folder to not be read only, and check that everything has permissions to write. If you've installed RBR under 'Program Files' or 'Program Files (x86)', move it out of those folders.
I personally use the maximum steering lock under car setup, and then set my wheel to 450 degrees total, maybe sometimes 360 or 540, depending on the stage. As for Logitech settings, I unfortunately cannot help as I have a Fanatec wheel setup.
And to answer those questions/ some thoughts and such:
1. I wanted some help or something in terms of those advanced wheel settings yes.
2. I tried to manually save and stuff but miraculously now it starts to save my game settings control changes. (Dunno what i did but now it works :) )
3. RBR is installed in a seperate folder. Why is that needed?
4. If i do get a new plugin, do i just put it in the plugins folder?
5. Also... In terms of angle, I used to play with 900 degrees of full max rotation. But i find 540 or lower to be too sensitive. Would youu think somewhere between 640-720 would be still safe for this game? (In terms of consistency and getting better).
You should just get a .dll file after extraction (and maybe a .ini file), and that does go in the plugins folder.
And there is essentially no right or wrong with steering rotation amounts, it's just whatever you drive best with. I prefer sensitive steering as it makes it quick and easy to induce oversteer. Real rally cars most often use 540, and adjust the steering lock to suit the driver, however I would recommend keeping the steering lock at maximum and adjusting the steering rotation range on the wheel, as that allows you to make tighter turns if needed.
I will say however, if you're absolutely sure you want to try a slightly different way of doing things in this game, like a smaller steering range, or a very noticeable car setup adjustment, don't just go for something completely different right away, just make subtle adjustments to what you're used to, and try it for a while. Maybe take a little bit of time away, and come back to driving once it's been off your mind. It can really help you get used to, and appreciate the differences if they improve things.
I'll see what happens and hopefuly improve from where i am right now. Currently can't get past a quarter of a stage without crashing!
Probably the best few pieces of advice I can give, is firstly, replace the co-driver, it can even be with another version of Robert Reid (he voiced the default one), but the default has space at the end and start of the audio clips, which means that they take too long to play, so when going fast you don't get all of your notes in time.
Secondly, get used to your pacenotes, and pay attention to them. If you don't understand pacenotes, google it, and learn them, because they are invaluable. Pacenote stacking can be helpful while getting used to them, since if you miss one, you can still see it in the list. And, get used to the intensity of the turns in relation to their notes. For example, pretty much every 'medium' corner has the same intensity wherever they're used, and you can quickly get used to how you can best handle them.
And thirdly, when you're getting used to the game and don't really know what speeds to approach things at, try dabbing the brakes. A lot. It's a useful thing to default to doing, because it slows you down just a little bit, and shifts weight forwards without getting rid of all of your speed. Excessive speed is a big problem to start off with, and a lot of the corners are deceiving, and a few dabs of the brake can often help when you're in doubt. It may seem odd and unnatural at first, and you may not get used to it at all, but if you can get used to it, it can seriously be helpful for unknown stages.
Hope this all helps.
Also For Anyone still thinking about the logitech profiler settings im gonna re-edit my post to share my findings!
UPDATED 14/01/2024
INGAME OPTIONS settings
force feedback ON
strength: MAX BARS
direction : NORMAL
autocenter wheel: OFF
FILTER SETTINGS
Steering AXIS filter settings like curvature, saturation etc ALL OFF, rise/fall :INSTANT
Throttle filter curvature 1&2 : 6 bars rise/fall 5.0
Footbrake filter both curvatures: 0 rise/fall rate:INSTANT
Handbrake curvatures: 0 , rise/fall 0/10
clutch cuvatures: 0 , rise/fall 10
LOGITECH PROFILER settings:
overall effects strength 9% (don't like the wheel shaking vibrating too much)
spring effect strength 60% (no difference in whatever u choose i think)
damper effect strength 60% (no difference in whatever u choose i think)
enable centering spring: 43% (i like the wheel weight to be lighter for faster steering reaction)
degrees of rotation : 450
allow game to adjust settings ON
RichardBurnsRally.ini --> ForceFeedbackSensitivityGravel=220 ForceFeedbackSensitivityTarmac=220 ForceFeedbackSensitivitySnow=220 (less means bigger vibrations)
RSF Parallel controller input rate & Parallel FFB effect both to 150hz
RSF launcher controls menu: gravel 220 tarmac 220 snow 220 (less means bigger vibrations)
if you don't like the clutch grabbing high at 90% try this tweak
get DXTWEAK2 open it up select your wheel, go to CLUTCH and set MIN 0 CENTER 220 MAX 255
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/marketplace/dxtweak2-change-calibration-and-deadzone-settings-of-a-directinput-game-controller.245/