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Surely not coincidence. Guessing the circuits are designed differently by different manufacturers of course. It may be a purposely designed feature to force the board to have a good battery in place to power on. Only way to know would be to ask the manufacturer.
In any case. I can verify the battery was the culprit in my situation as well. New battery, no problems.
Actually it was the PSU that was the problem. After purchasing a new Corsair AX860 a month ago, I haven't ran into that problem again. I agree with what most people say. If you run into problems like this 9 out of 10 times it's the PSU.
when bios is reset, drive boot order and raid settigns, can cause os not found errors
or cpu/ram settigns can cause other errors if it defaults to the wrong settigns
Good to hear you got it settled. In my case, it's certainly not the PSU though. It's in tip top shape with all the testing I did on it to verify. The new CMOS battery fixed everything. Power cycles without issue and everything is A+ again thankfully.
Well, I really hope you are right as I'm going through the same ordeal! I had the same problem last year and, having read the various articles, I replaced the PSU with a bigger Corsair AX750 unit. The PC has been working fine for the subsequent few months. Then last night, the PC shutdown inexplicably and refuses to boot - the power button will light, the fans begin the spin-up and a fraction of a second later it powers down again. I've disconnected from the mains to drain the PSU but that had no effect.
So, I will now go and get myself a new CMOS battery in the hope that there's a nice simple (and cheap) fix versus the alternatives!
My PC had a wile raft of problems, failing to pass the vendor splash screen, failing to boot windows, random USB device drops, irq less or equals errors, windows freezing, games crashing, failing to shut down (the monitor would turn off, but not the PSU or HDD), power button not working, etc etc.
Since banging a fresh cr2032 in, all these problems have gone, my PC boots in record time, 20-30 seconds into win10, and shuts down just as quickly.
I think that in some cases, mobos are designed such that if the batt is completely dead, with no flow whatsoever, a circuit isn't completed, causing untold grief,
So, not to knock anyone, but to all the threads and people saying it's not the battery, it might be, and for the sake of a £.99p battery, what's the harm in checking?
Just like with other battery. 2032 are rated for 3.0V if this falls to below 2.9; then it is dying.
Most BIOS (if it boots and the battery is working somewhat) should show the CMOS Battery 3V voltage.
If you need them cheap, look on Amazon or preferred retailer. A lot of local stores charge like $5 per battery for these kinds; don't get ripped off.
https://www.amazon.com/s/url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=CR2032+battery
They can hold their charge for many years with regards to un-used/shelf-life. So buying them cheaper in bulk is not a bad idea. Especially since many folks have many PCs, this helps you out there to cover those. Plus they are often used in other devices and such; like Car Remotes
My understanding of the battery must not be correct if its causing my PC to act this way. I checked the PSU and it seems good.
Its a rampage 4 extreme ASUS
32gb of Ram at 2133 Corsair
Would a bad or dead cmos battery stop a PC from turning on?
I'm helping a family friend fix her old Dell Vista bound PC and it wont power on.. The board is getting power but hitting the power button does nothing..
I'm thinking that there may be an issue with the power button, but id rather not transfer the PC to another case to find out and im planning on selling her my old PC instead so i can get rid of it and so she wont have to spend more than she'd like on a new PC.
So im thinking its either the power button or the Powersupply, but i know the board is getting power.
As this thread fit my issue it helped me avoid creating a new thread.
windows wont boot with non approved bios changes
Should the Cmos show 3.3v on a meter? i tried another battery from my car remote, its 3.05 and the one that came out of the pc is around the same.
Its still doing the same things, except all of a sudden i went from 32gb of ram to 16. Saw 2 dimms showing abnormal D1 and D2, pulled the ram out but in same order. I put two different ones in the 2 bad dimm slots. they checked ok after that. So i added two more, they checked out. added two more, then B1 and B2 dimms where abnormal. keep in mind the two ram sticks that where in D1 and D2 i left out. so these wher working sticks. So i pulled B1 and B2 and put them in other slots then put the two orginal bad sticks in there place. Now all 32gb show running ok at 2133. im confused on that one.
Im taking it to a tech guy tomorrow that will sit down and help me trouble shoot. I have an XFX 1250 pro PSU. I wonder if something is just not supplying right. once the Pc is powered up i can run the crap out of it. Overclocking everything like normal. Its just getting it to start.
And for those that ask, at one time i was running quad 7990s and 64gb of ram. reason for the PSU. Any ideas?
BTW this PC build has served well for several years with just chaning GPUs out.