Steam installeren
inloggen
|
taal
简体中文 (Chinees, vereenvoudigd)
繁體中文 (Chinees, traditioneel)
日本語 (Japans)
한국어 (Koreaans)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgaars)
Čeština (Tsjechisch)
Dansk (Deens)
Deutsch (Duits)
English (Engels)
Español-España (Spaans - Spanje)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spaans - Latijns-Amerika)
Ελληνικά (Grieks)
Français (Frans)
Italiano (Italiaans)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesisch)
Magyar (Hongaars)
Norsk (Noors)
Polski (Pools)
Português (Portugees - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Braziliaans-Portugees)
Română (Roemeens)
Русский (Russisch)
Suomi (Fins)
Svenska (Zweeds)
Türkçe (Turks)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamees)
Українська (Oekraïens)
Een vertaalprobleem melden
Don't remember for sure going to try to check.
I do know for sure I had to RMA it before. So maybe that is why it is going bad sense they only send you back refurbished drives :(
I ordered it way back in 2014 :O
Though remember this is the replacement drive not the original.
Seems like it could be sense it has a red background color. I could be wrong.
It is only for both 7200 rpm SATA drives right now :(
Under Universal Serial Bus controllers, open up the right device's properties window.
In the Power Management tab there, there is a small little check that you need to uncheck
idk which USB controller it is, so you may need to try a few ones till you find the right one or put this property on all of them.
(idk if your sata drive is connected to any of the usb drives through some driver or setting, or raid setup, could be the cause as such)
Can you post another screen shot of CrystalDiskMark with the window expanded to show the full table of SMART attributes.
Also, if you can download Smartmontools for Windows and then run an extended SMART Selftest on the drive.
https://www.smartmontools.org/wiki/Download
Once you have it installed you can right click on the smartctl.exe and open in CMD then run the following for it to start a selftest.
The short test will only test the controller, cache, and a sampled surface scan and will take 2 minutes to finish.
The long test will test the mechanical components and also does a full surface scan
Once the test is complete you'll want to check your SMART attributes again to see if there were any of them that incremented.
If its a refurbished drive this could be due to grown defects that were re-mapped to spare area via a low-level format.
Lastly, its a mechanical disk so check to see if it is highly fragmented data and defragment it. If your doing something that is trying to read or write files that are fragmented on different tracks you'll have randomly high seek times when trying to read or write those files.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/defragment-your-windows-10-pc-048aefac-7f1f-4632-d48a-9700c4ec702a
but that confusion would indeed explain the 51C thing, but idk if that is the hex co-ordinates, temp or some value (depends on the setting)
The behavior is strange. My 5 TB WD5001FZWX (same final four letter model) does not do what yours is. I have my drives set to power down after not being in use (obviously there's the wait time for it to spin up, which is natural, but no other analogies with pauses once it is).
When was the RMA? Recent, or long ago?
When did this behavior start? Again, recently, or always like this?
Did the original drive do this? Or did you RMA it for some other reason? The color in CrystalDiskInfo changes to Red once temperature goes over a given value.
That model is rated up to 55C (some recent drives are rated up to 60C). Though not disastrous, it is warm compared to what I see with mine. Does it have any sort of cooling? None of my internal drives get that warm, including the Black itself which is atop two other drives. All of my HDDs are right behind an intake fan.
On the other hand, I noticed my external drive can get that indicator to change Red when I do sustained transfers for a long enough period of time, as it caused the drive to get up to ~55C. Other than when it was new and I was populating it with backup data, I usually don't see this though, so I didn't worry.
But if it's mostly staying ~50C or below, I wouldn't worry. I doubt temperatures are the cause of the behavior you're seeing anyway.