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Helm
Mailshirt
Breastplate
Gauntlet
Leggings
Greaves
High boot
Someone might correct me, but that's my usual system.
If you pick leather shoe and high boot, but it only equips the high boot or shoe, it will show red or yellow.
I normally do it in stages/layers. For each, I use helm, chest, leggings, boots, gauntlets PLUS LEATHER CLOAK. Cloak will block a lot of stuff.
Stage 1: Mail or leather or mixed.
Stage 2: Mail set plus leather set. (2 helms, 2 boots, etc.)
Stage 3: same as 2 plus breastplate.
Stage 4: same as 3 plus greaves.
Wooden shield is better early because it's lighter. Metal later. Dwarves that are WEAK or TIRES EASILY should not be put in anything heavier than Stage 1, or they are really really slow.
I usually keep 1 squad in Stage 1 or 2 always as they can get where you need them very fast.
The other thing to note, is that extra layer of armor doesn't really add protection to already protected parts. An iron axe will chop thrugh copper mail and breastplate, as easy as if it's were just a breast plate. However, mail shirt protects more of the body, compared to the breastplate, thus, is still usefull.
This is however is diffrent when dealing with weapon and armor made out of equal metals, as then, to my understanding, it can penetrate a breastplate, but then fail to penetrate a mail shirt.
All of that assuming the attacker is using an edged weapon. If they have a good hammer or a mase, that extra armor would not stop the blunt damage, and thus will do nothing.
Only thing I'd say is thay dwarves with no/low armour user skill will be encumbered by heavy armour. They'll move slower and tire easier, which can be rough in combat. I use a light armour uniform for unskilled dwarves, with mostly leather gear and bucklers. I then swap them out to big boy armour when they're able to use it effectively
Leather clothing counts as armour, I'm pretty sure, so if your civilians are walking around in leather clothes they may get some experience as random things attack them. I usually have a worn-over-clothing uniform with leath caps, hoods, cloaks, boots and gloves plus individual choice of melee weapon and a buckler. I put every dwarf without military skills into squads with that uniform, so they're always walking around with some armour/weapons. As a benefit, they'll also sometimes go train when they have time, which takes care of some of their needs
Certain armour items are SHAPED, meaning that they fit the bodypart they're worn on exactly and CANNOT be worn with other shaped items. Logically, this means that a Dwarf cannot wear two helmets, but it extends to other armor pieces:
Both leggings and greaves are SHAPED, so if you assign a dwarf with both, they will wear the greaves and carry the leggings around with them, but without putting them on, which is why it shows up as green on the equip menu. This is bad, as they're lugging the extra weight around for no reason.
Breastplates are SHAPED, obviously, but leather ARMOUR is also SHAPED, meaning a dwarf can only wear either or. Similarly, given both, they will wear the stronger piece and carry the other around. Important thing to note: leather armour is a different item than leather clothing; dwarfs can wear leather clothing just fine underneath their armour and it does protect them a small amount.
Caps, Helms, Gauntlets, High Boots, Low Boots are all also SHAPED.
Another important thing: SHOES are also shaped. If you don't tick "uniform replaces clothing" in the equipment screen, a dwarf won't wear his steel high boots if he already is wearing some silk shoes. It won't kill him, but he might lose a foot in the next fight you send him into.
https://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/Armor
https://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/Armor
http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=65284.0
There's a list in here somewhere for what you need to fully armor your dwarf.
These list some people provide in the old forum posts are not correct or good for the latest version of the game, since we have "Force" on attacks now. Stacking in some case will just add weight and not any protection or advantage at all.
helm, greaves, breastplate, mail shirt, shield, high boots, weapon of choice. Crossbow can have shield to.