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Not armor: https://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/Clothing
I tend to make clothes out of leather, as cloth won't give any protection but leather at least helps your lumberjacks not get mauled to death by possums and squirrels.
Using squads you can custom control what you want them to wear and if you want it over clothes or instead of.
Leather armor, helms, leggings definitely count as armor, so won't be picked up by civilians. Trousers are clothing, so will be worn by them
The links given above are the best place to look, though
Is the item Leather Armor the only leather item that civilians won't wear or will they ignore leather tunics as well?
So, leather leggings are armor, but leather trouser are just clothes, right?
Did you look at the armor link? There's even a picture-cheat-sheet...
https://dwarffortresswiki.org/images/thumb/d/d8/Armor_Coverage_Chart.png/800px-Armor_Coverage_Chart.png
If you're totally new maybe start with Nook's guides on YouTube.
Leggings, armor, high boots, gauntlets, helms all count as armour. If you'd like, I can see if I can find a full list of possible apparel and split it for you
nice pfp btw
https://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/Armor#Headgear
That table, and the ones below it, tell you which pieces are Armor. Check the 'Armor level' column, if it's empty it's clothing, if it's got a number it's armor
I dont need to bother with socks and dresses and trousers? Thats fantastic.
Also, interesting fact, a leather cloak will increase a military dwarf armor (can be worn on top of everything basically), AND provide a way to "filter" bad gas (occupy the mouth slot). A good addition to military, if the civvies don't steal it beforehand :D
If you want a military fort, you can also make armor suit for everyone, set them in squad and have them wear armor at all time. Don't have them train at all if you want them to work, or do a rotation if you want the to get some skill.
You can obviously do some variation (no armor, just weapon or just training for everyone once in a while).
There you go, spartan fort. Military ? What's that ?
THIS IS SPARTA !
But yeah, I usually just buy out leather from the caravan and make enough leather cloaks, hoods and gloves for everyone in the fort to have one. It does help with survivability.
If I'm equipping everyone in the fort with armor, I have a uniform that tries to balance protection against encumbrance, so metal gauntlets, high boots, helms then leather leggings, gloves, armor, hood, cloak plus a buckler and a weapon. Then when individuals gain armor user skill, I upgrade them to increasingly metal armor, same with shield skill and shields
I did a Greek bit recently, had a bunch of scholars who were wrestlers, wearing just leather thongs and high boots. Not quite Spartan, though