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For founder beliefs I like the increased production and growth rate and tithe.
Those are just what I prefer, so they might not be the best.
This is my normal order for selection:
- Terrain Based - Desert Folklore / Dance of the Aurora / Sacred Path
- Resource Based (faith+culture) - Goddess of Festivals / Religious Idols
- Resource Based (faith) - Tear of the Gods / Stone Circles / Earth Mother
- Resource Based (culture) - God of the Open Sky / Oral Tradition
- Resource Based (other) - Goddess of the Hunt / God of the Sea
- Backup, if nothing above fits - Fertility Rites
- All others
There is some more option for very wide empires, with lots of cities. Then good choices are: Messenger of the God / God of Craftsmen / Ancestor Worship. For example Messenger of the God is very nice for Carthage, Iroquois and Inca, because they can get free city connections.Papal Primacy, World Church and Pilgrimage are situational and sometimes good, but they all require quite dominant religion.
If you're going for the one-city Achievement, for example, Papal Primacy (Founder) and Religious Art (Follower) pack a lot of punch. Otherwise, they're not quite as useful, though Papal Primacy is useful if you're going for a diplomatic victory.
For more normal plays, I second Tithe as Founder, it's so simple and it doesn't require you to be friendly with the foreign cities, meaning that you might well have worshipers in other cities donating to support your own conquest of their countries.
The initial Pantheon is very situational, because a lot of them give big bonuses for having a large quantity of a certain tile. The terrain of your first few cities matters.
On a Jungle start I almost always try Sacred Path, because it feeds a chain of fastly grown citizens working high-food tiles, ahich also fuel the expansion of the borders into more of those tiles. It also leads to monster jungle tiles once you have Universities and Trading Posts/Brazilwood Camps. Also, every Trading Post you build on a culture yielding jungle will allow that culture to factor into tourism from Hotels/Airports.
I basically second what Damsteri said, but I don't always value Desert Folklore/Dance of the Aurora as much, since I might expand off those tiles, and all they add is faith, though I still do pick those the majority of the time I'm on such tiles. And, in reality, they are some of the best when working.
There are some Civ-dependent beliefs which are best when used by a certain civ. For example, ocean starts that want to expand along coast (Japan, Carthage, Polynesia, maybe Portugal) make God of the Sea really good, Papal Primacy is really good as Siam, Monument to the Gods further enhances Eqypt, etc.