Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
Discussions Rules and Guidelines
Report this post
1. Choose some less powerful cars first. Like the mini.
2. Drive SLOWER than you think you should. Believe me, you gonna find the rhytm eventually, and better times and speeds will come!
3. Try to watch real rally driving POV cams. They constantly correcting the the wheels, because the bumps on the road.
I hope it helps and understandable what i wrote. English is not my native language.
It’s hard to compare really with different cars, tyre compands and road surfaces. The closest you could get is driving the Quatro and Celica in AC, and maybe the Escort MK I too.
Tarmac in DR2.0 is not good enough and the FFB doesn’t help, so it feels off compared to other sims. Driving on gravel requires a different style and techniques from track racing. It’s more about balancing and shifting weight.
If you have no idea what you’re doing, watch some youtube videos about the basics of driving rally cars. Start out with the slower cars, H2 FWD or even H1 FWD. Once you start getting comfortable switch to NR4 or modern 4WD cars.
And as usual, slower is faster. It’s more important to have consistent pace and avoid crashing, than constantly pushing to the edge.
And one more thing, learn what all of the co-driver calls mean. It’s very important!
Then there is the issue of different developers coding their physics-engines and ffb-algorithms differently. One look at DR 2.0's ffb-settings menu should be enough to tell you that Codemasters does things their very own way when compared to the likes of Assetto Corsa, rfactor(1,2), iracing, etc...
And the way they do it is: crappy out of the box and only really marginally serviceable once you tweak those settings. And yes, coming at this with a low-powered G-series wheel is not going to help you, either - but that is just the frosting on the cake. Fundamentally, the default settings in DR2.0 are kind-a crappy no matter what wheel you run.
Then there is the issue of stock setups... ...certainly not awful and usually quite driveable when your only objective is to keep it on the designated driving-surface - but certainly not world-record and/or enthusiast-material in any way.
With rally when compared to track-racing things are slightly different:
The further back in history you go, the closer competition-cars are related to their road-going versions as that is just how things started (an endurance-competition on essentially public roads for individuals and manufacturers alike to promote and facilitate proof of the capabilities of the modern motor-vehicle).
So in DR2.0 the "lesser" classes offer lots of variety:
H1 fwd, H2fwd, H2rwd, H3rwd, KitCar_fwd...
...are very reminiscend if not directly taken out of the standard production model-range of a vehicle with only minor safety-related modifications done to them.
Group-B is self-explanatory: when rally went power-crazy
Group-A 1 step forward, 2 steps back: a little less power and again adhering to homologation-rules whereas there had to be a road-going version made for a minimum run of x that was marketed towards and sold to the average -if affluent- motorsport-afficionado, if not: the general consumer
And then there are the NR4, 2000s and the other more modern classes where rule-books and economic trends start to force technology to converge ever more and the differences in drive-trains and layouts tend to thin out.
Alright, what does this mean? It means you will probably be instantly faster in the more modern stuff that tends to follow more common design-principles when it comes to driveline, chassis-type and general layout. But if you are anything like me and want some variety: early 90s and further back in rally-history is allways there for you.
Just do not make the usual mistake and go: I don't know what I am doing, I'll just take that fancy looking STRATOS because it's the lightest weight in it's class and go.... ...find the next tree to park it there PERMANENTLY?!
Alright, until I find my ffb-settings (for a slightly more powerful T300 - ymmv) here are some insightful video-links:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_yBQ1Oi3Jw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzMcgvS7BW8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0FD6dTYZ_g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfekZcWa6D8
Wow, thanks man. This sure gave me some better insight on this topic.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2060720985
since then I tend to turn "collision" off completely as it really tries to make fender-benders produce some impact on your wheel which is technically-speaking: rubbish and unrealistic. When the car-body absorbs an impact and the chassis is not deforming because of it, then the only thing you might feel is residual momentum in the driveline acting against the suddenly-stationary driving-surface, if at all.
Also: "Suspension" as low as ~40% can feel better with some cars and setups.
BUT: the electro-mechanical properties of your specific wheel might lead you to prefering slightly higher or lower values. Take the above settings as a quick-guide, not as literal gospel!
and these are my OSD-settings when on the stage:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2083876077
getting rid of unnecessary clutter that could prove to be a distraction in the heat of the moment.
I personally only ever use cockpit-view / "headcam" or whatever CM calls it. But there are other options. I do generally prefer the rendered steering-wheel removed from said view unless I am checking input-lag / graphics-performance.
What's the reason behind wheel friction being set to such a low value?
If you don't mind, could you share Thrustmaster control panel settings too?
T300 as I have learned, that setting is a little more useful in calming down spikes a bit.
Again, my conclusion is that driver-software is built differently for certain generations/makes of wheels. But I am not a developer - just that totally different behaviour lends itself to that realisation.
At the end of the day I nowadays use between 15% and 25%..30%(max) on my T300 depending on car/setup/surface
Driver-side I use 80% overall forces (I believe 75% was default) as to slightly boost the low-down forces especially in games like DR2.0 which have no "minimum-force" setting or any means to control final output-mapping/clipping for that matter.
Again: this is a highly personal choice and preference. And it actually evolves over time and I try different things here and there when I think that I should feel this ("but not that stuff") and so on.
For a G29 I say: try lower values first, then try higher ones with the same car/setup/track-surface and find your sweetspot -- and do not shy away from ever touching those sliders, again.... ...although: SAT is really what should be the dominant force as that is the one most-influenced by actual tyre-physics (which as we all know are mediocre on hard surfaces).
You know: "asking nicely" can be a very powerful tool in one's toolbox. Did not hurt that I was done with driving for that day and trying to "chill out" a little.
I am using your wheel settings now for the g29. I must say, its a lot better to drive now. I drove the subaru s4 in new zealand and its crazy fun right now. Thanks again for giving me some direction and a starting point to build on.
don't start messing around with RWD or even the powerful AWDs until you conquer the lower powered cars... yeah, you'll have to deal with understeer with the ancient FWDs but you'll start to get better at low-traction driving so that you know how to work the throttle when you move up to some of the more... spirited vehicles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8nfmkG6ktw&list=PLw5HSjF9MsV0_DJFH151RE7GpM9Kv9-dX&index=2
If you drive the same as at ACC or rF2 it will deliver a pleasant ride and some good times, still, slides here and there may happen and you can deal with it while being fast.
Also, you dont need to care so much about tyre wear because it stand the punishment (but tyres still blow up depending on what you do).
Use handbrake for sharp turns and hairpins, everything else drive as normal as you would on tarmac.
Consider also that driving on gravel, dirt, heavy gravel, snow, ice . . . it is all different from driving on tarmac and tarmac at DR 2.0 is dirty tarmac, not rubbered and with uneven surface, meaning it is completely different experience from ACC, rF2, AMS2, etc.
Like lich0 mentioned:
The closest experience you can have is going on green track with slidey tyres (try driving with your tyres red at ACC after you do some doughnuts and sometimes taking a stroll on grass. It will be much harder to handle the car in place and the track itself will feel worst because of the tyres.
DR 2.0 physics is made around gravel and dirt, meaning it is where it shines the most.
Tarmac acctually feels like a very dirty tarmac, also a rally tyre is made to stand a heavy punishment a normal race car tyre is not (a normal race car tyre is made to stand just little punishment in comparison, also being made morre for speed and less for standing the punishment of constant slides, spins, drifts ... )
Learn the pace notes and learn how to do the tracks without remembering eveyr turn (but paying attention to what the co-drivers is telling you).
That is actually how rally work in real life, also the rally drivers do their pace notes by running the stage before the real try, on much slower speeds to take note with the co-driver, then they do run it again to check, confirm or change, pace notes and check again the conditions of the track and other possible dangers (so, basically, aside form the fact they have pace notes at rally, they dont go completely blind on the stages, but the pace notes are the key).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8nfmkG6ktw&list=PLw5HSjF9MsV0_DJFH151RE7GpM9Kv9-dX&index=2
If you drive the same as at ACC or rF2 it will deliver a pleasant ride and some good times, still, slides here and there may happen and you can deal with it while being fast.
Also, you dont need to care so much about tyre wear because it stand the punishment (but tyres still blow up depending on what you do).
Use handbrake for sharp turns and hairpins, everything else drive as normal as you would on tarmac.
Consider also that driving on gravel, dirt, heavy gravel, snow, ice . . . it is all different from driving on tarmac and tarmac at DR 2.0 is dirty tarmac, not rubbered and with uneven surface, meaning it is completely different experience from ACC, rF2, AMS2, etc.
Like lich0 mentioned:
The closest experience you can have is going on green track with slidey tyres (try driving with your tyres red at ACC after you do some doughnuts and sometimes taking a stroll on grass. It will be much harder to handle the car in place and the track itself will feel worst because of the tyres.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rq_dNKqMonQ
:D
DR 2.0 physics is made around gravel and dirt, meaning it is where it shines the most.
Tarmac acctually feels like a very dirty tarmac, also a rally tyre is made to stand a heavy punishment a normal race car tyre is not (a normal race car tyre is made to stand just little punishment in comparison, also being made morre for speed and less for standing the punishment of constant slides, spins, drifts ... )
Learn the pace notes and learn how to do the tracks without remembering eveyr turn (but paying attention to what the co-drivers is telling you).
That is actually how rally work in real life, also the rally drivers do their pace notes by running the stage before the real try, on much slower speeds to take note with the co-driver, then they do run it again to check, confirm or change, pace notes and check again the conditions of the track and other possible dangers (so, basically, aside form the fact they have pace notes at rally, they dont go completely blind on the stages, but the pace notes are the key).
Glad to see you having fun, that is what this is all about!
Certainly. For all the right reasons as discussed above.
Once you pick up your pace a little and try cars with race-bred chassis-optimizations and drivetrains using limited-slip-diffs... ...you might find yourself expanding on what you do in real-life (unless you come from a RL motorsports-background, I mean :-)