Re binding buttons.

[klw]

I have DR2 and trying to remap my G27 shifter buttons. I am trying to bind button 1 to become my handbrake, but when trying to bind it through the game options it applies button 4. Or some other options sometimes. The reason is I have a DIY handbrake setup that pushes onto button 1. and the ways it made won't press button 4. This whole setup I have used successfully on DirtRally 1.

[CarDr]

Your DIY device might require a custom xml file
http://blog.codemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Multi-Input-Device-System-for-DiRT-Rally-2-0-Master.pdf


In your G27 xml file, it may look something like this

<Action id="Handbrake">
<Axis id="di_button_6" />
</Action>

You might need to remove that command (all 3 lines as shown) if you don't want the wheel to map. Make a copy first if you try, you could find that command has to be in there.

[klw]

Hi CarDr. I did have a look at that file and tried changing it to 1 but didn't work. It is also interesting as the G27 shifter according to the logitech profiler does not have a button 6. Also playing with these files is totally new ground to me so maybe I am not doing it right. I used notepad to edit the files. As a side thing, I did manage to edit the pause button 7 and got it to work.

[klw]

CarDr I have just looked at the action maps for DirtRally 1 (which the G27 controllers all work fine) and I notce it does have the same 3 lines in it. Thereis a difference in that DR1 says <Action id......... where as DR2 says <Action name ......

[CarDr]

As you can see I don't own this game, but I have spent a lot of time in these xml files of their other games. These files evolve from one game to the next, so I can be wrong at times and choose my words carefully- might, should, could....

Originally posted by klw:

Hi CarDr. I did have a look at that file and tried changing it to 1 but didn't work. It is also interesting as the G27 shifter according to the logitech profiler does not have a button 6. Also playing with these files is totally new ground to me so maybe I am not doing it right. I used notepad to edit the files. As a side thing, I did manage to edit the pause button 7 and got it to work.

Button numbers within the xml need to be one digit less than your desired place. If you want button # 7 on your device, it needs to be button # 6 on the xml command line. Button_0 would be #1 on the wheel. This should hold true for all of Codemasters games.

Originally posted by klw:

CarDr I have just looked at the action maps for DirtRally 1 (which the G27 controllers all work fine) and I notce it does have the same 3 lines in it. Thereis a difference in that DR1 says <Action id......... where as DR2 says <Action name ......

Except or the numbering system of button numbers as mention above, they often change the files for every game, like the call name of action command.
Capitalizing and spacing can be important, It's best to look for the patterns of the existing files.
From that link I offered I see <action name=" as the beginning of a command, where you posted <Action name, just be aware a typo in the file could make a difference- sometimes even a added or missing space in certain ( but not all ) locations.
.........................

I recall there was something in that guide about a version number in each xml file. You will have to read that carefully, changing it to a higher number forces your control configuration save (located in your encrypted game save) to update. Don't know if this is necessary, or if section 2.4 Device history for removing a saved memory from history would be of use (unplugging the device for it to show in history first). The game has seen many updates after this guide was made, don't know if it has been updated or needs to be.

From pg 28
"If any changes are made to the action map, you must increase the action map version before launching the game. This will replace the action map stored in a save game automatically, otherwise the device will need to be deleted manually from the device history while disconnected."

They could have made this a lot easier with an open config save file where you could jump in, see whats wrong and make direct changes. Maybe a programmer thinks his job would be eliminated if it was too simple.

............................

Your DIY device. If you made it from an old controller, it could have the ID chip still in use. It's possible the game already has support added with presets in a existing xml file . See section 6.1 about USB Product ID (PID) and Vender ID (VID) numbers. This is how the game recognizes your device(s).
If you can find a list of supported devices you should look for a match. With DR1 they had a "read me" file in the main game folder with a list.

[klw]

Thanks for your input so far. Unfortunately no success. I have mentioned a DIY handbrake, that is probably misleading. All it is is a lever (that looks like a handbrake} which pivots pulls a cable which pulls another pivoting lever which presses on to Button 1 on the G27 shifter. I tried what you suggested no go, if you try to bind "handbrake" in the options button 1 still binds to whatever the last binding you did. At the moment button 4 is doing the job of "launch control" and handbrake. On the surface of it, I somehow need to swap button 1 & 4 around.

[ialyrn]

The G27 buttons layout should be as follows

Left side wheel face (top to bottom)
Button 7
Button 20
Button 22

Right side wheel face (top to bottom)
Button 6
Button 19
Button 21

Left Paddle
Button 5

Right Paddle
Button 4

Shifter unit gear posistion
Gear 1 = Button 8
Gear 2 = Button 9
Bear 3 = Button 10
Gear 4 = Button 11
Gear 5 = Button12
Gear 6 = Button13
Reverse = Button 14

Shifter unit red buttons (left to right)
Button 0, Button 1, Button 2, Button 3

Shifter unit black buttons
Top = Button 15
Bottom = Button 17
Left = Button 16
Right = Button 18

Pedals
Clutch = Slider
Break = RZaxis
Throttle - Yaxis

Steering
Xaxis

I hope that helps you figure out which binding to edit in the XML

You could also use strong elestic bands to make the gear stick return to centre, and then use Gear 4 as the hand brake.

You could buy and use a cheap USB flightstick as a handbrake.

Or there are other options out there, such as using an arcade controller stick (like you would find on an arcade cabinet), using a USB controller kit.

This is to make a stand alone USB sequential shifter, but would be the same process to turn it into a handbrake

https://youtu.be/bmYGdOWIVwg

If button "4" keeps binding, then I would check your right paddle shifter, to make sure it isnt sticking. I would also make sure you have the Logitech gaming software installed correctly, and that it is running when you play Dirt Rally 2. You need version "5.10.127", should be dated "2010-03-30".

P.S. Select the option in game to "clear binding" forthe handbrake (F1 on the keyboard). I have had the issue before where the previous binding wont automatically clear when changing it, but using the "clear binding" function in game solves that issue. Hope this helps.

[ExpandeR]

________________________

[klw]

Again thanks, but unfortunately I have made a big blunder and tried to make an ebrake following online instructions and have ruined the circuit board. I will keep your posts and see if I can find another shifter or circuit board

[CarDr]

Originally posted by klw:

Again thanks, but unfortunately I have made a big blunder and tried to make an ebrake following online instructions and have ruined the circuit board. I will keep your posts and see if I can find another shifter or circuit board

ouch
Next time you want a cheap DIY handbrake, try an old USB joystick from a thrift store and some rubber bands.

If it's a broken trace on the circuit board, you might be able to solder in a bypass wire if there is existing solder points at each end of the circuit. You can clean/tin and solder directly on a trace- much more difficult and easy to break again. Supper glue for cracked boards.

[klw]

Hi CarDr. Well, I have fixed my problems, I was able to find a no longer used shifter that had broken power lead. Swapped the boards over all good. The software issue I resolved by as you suggested by altering the setting for the "handbrake" in the .XML file to 0. But the real find was the Version bit. I had changed the "version" in the first line, but that did not work. It was when I changed "Version" in the second line from "19" to "22" and saved, things happened. When I closed everything and started up DR2 as it was loading it came up with a message about the file being changed etc. When loaded I went through the options and preferences etc and reset set them and the "handbrake" went to "1" and all worked good. Success. Many thanks for your help.

[Ryango Sling]

Originally posted by klw:

Hi CarDr. Well, I have fixed my problems, I was able to find a no longer used shifter that had broken power lead. Swapped the boards over all good. The software issue I resolved by as you suggested by altering the setting for the "handbrake" in the .XML file to 0. But the real find was the Version bit. I had changed the "version" in the first line, but that did not work. It was when I changed "Version" in the second line from "19" to "22" and saved, things happened. When I closed everything and started up DR2 as it was loading it came up with a message about the file being changed etc. When loaded I went through the options and preferences etc and reset set them and the "handbrake" went to "1" and all worked good. Success. Many thanks for your help.

man thats great! I used ur guide and it works perfectly! Thx 4 this job!