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You dont exactly need faster vehicles but to master the ones you have better.
Also, usually, if you are pushing too hard and falling behind (be it because you are crashing, having to save a lot from crashes or just not fast enough), consider the approach of "the slower you go the faster you will be" . . . because it is true in some cases.
If you are crashing it too often, or if you are having to slow down a lot to save from crashes, you are overshooting the turn according to your current skills, meaning you should slow down earlier (or more) to be able to carry proper speed through the turns (proper speed you can control the car properly without having to "save the car from crashes).
Also, practice with each car (at each terrain) how to react for all types of turns, so by listening to the call and looking at the turn you will know by heart, for that car, how to deal with it at that terrain (reason why practicing at time trial and checking your improvement with online leaderboard is good).
The Mustang GT4 you need to use more your throttle and less you brake (but for some turnss you need to do a hardbrake or even using handbrake), it will want to spin so use it at your benefit, not against you, brake less and use more your throttle, also learn better throttle management and threshold, so you use just enough to force the car into pivoting but not so much that you spin, and carry its angle of attack for as long as you need through the turn.
The effectiveness of your inputs will vary from terrain to terrain too.
Your guess that you might need to get a faster car to help your event standings is incorrect. In general it won't help at all; changing class will just change the times you're competing with accordingly and you'll simply be trying to get used to a new class. It could turn out that you're naturally better with a different class but that's an unknown.
Really, just go for the class whose mixture of driving and success is the most fun for you. If you're best with R2, stick with it unless you're bored of it. Since you say spinning out is a problem, avoid anything that's RWD (GT, Group B (RWD), H2 (RWD), H3). They're fun, but they're also notoriously punishing and are the classes most eager to spin out. For something fast but controllable, try out the 2000cc or R5 classes.
Note that faster classes mean more expensive repairs in My Team mode. The R5s especially can see you losing credits quicker than you earn them as they're not only costly to fix, but also very happy to get more air than you'd like.
To get better results, in general DR2 isn't interested in rewarding anything other than skilling up. So really the first thing to do is just settle on a class and/or car you like, and then prepare yourself for lots of practice. However, here are some early setup tips that should help:
Tuning:
Youtube "Dirt rally 2 GTR tuning <your car>" and you'll find recommended tuning setups. For example:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gtr+technical+dirt+rally+2.0+lancia+
Controller:
DR2 is decent on a controller but maybe its defaults aren't perfect for you. Worth a look:
https://www.reddit.com/r/dirtgame/comments/arx94j/controller_settings_guide_dirt_rally_20/
I recently switched my controls and I don't know if it's helping my times, but it's definitely changing how the game feels.
The only other real advice from here is to go as slow as you need to go in order to stay in control. You don't get better in DR2 by getting lucky while beyond your limits, you only get better by driving within your limits and letting those limits grow.
One last thing: If you use Time Trial mode to practise, you can select a ghost (or 3) from anyone else in the world and have their ghost visible on the track with you. So you could run a stage, see what your basic time is, then select ghosts around that time and work on beating them (and maybe even add them on Steam if you want some friendly competition).
U can find my own R5 setups from this spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B0MNyHmtHrl0PN2R18tQ4mBkaqnouWR_dm6MPHu3qhE/pubhtml
The numbers mean the severity of the turn not the gear (also, if it was gear the slower cars that go up to 4th gear only would be lost, like . . why saying 5 or 6 if car have only 4 gears?).
https://www.automobilemag.com/news/a-beginners-guide-to-rally-pace-notes/#:~:text=Rally%20pace%20notes%20sound%20and,corner%2C%20and%20come%20out%20unscathed.&text=Pace%20notes%20are%20complied%20before,as%20%22recce%22)%20run.
That's sound advice for the OP. But not for me. If I tried to do this I would be playing the game for the rest of my life. On my death bed, decades later (I hope) I would be ranting and raving about my failure to do this.
My last words would probably be, "All I wanted out of life was to be a masterrrrrr".....[dead].
Perhaps, obviously, in light of the above, I have decided not to take up this challenge.
Also when his G29 was broken he could drive, after 1 to 2 weeks, 1s off of his best times on a gamepad.
Knowledge and practice developing skills and more knowledge is what make a driver fast, the equipment is just . . . something that may help the improvement (with better and more detailed feeling), but will not make a slower driver any faster.
2 ) Eat Bananas = They are potassium rich which is good for the brain and will keep you sharpe & focused.
3) Practice, practice practice = Who doesn't need this?
4) Keep good, healthy and timely bowel movements = Relieves unnecessary stress levels.
5) Get a divorce = Optional...