T300 Best settings

[Nate]

Can someone point me to a post, or share their settings for in game and what they use on the TM control panel through Windows. I tried to play DR2 on PS4 but it just wasnt there and the FFB felt wonky. I'm hoping the PC version is different or maybe there's a jackspades type file or something idk. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im trying to get this sorted and see if i should buy all the DLC (its 9.99 for GOTY, i have just the game atm)but the sale ends in like 12 hours. Thanks again for any help.

[Nate]

Publicado originalmente por Zakys:

Still best to turn off spring and dampening. Better ffb. Also turn of collision or give it like 10 to 20 and.leave all else default with 75% strength in profiler if its too much get 75% in profile on the other two sliders also.

I used to do the same thing but after turning them both on for DR2 it is 1000x better and more responsive with it on, also the FFB for ACC is amazing now. I used to think it was trash but turning those on made it almost as good as RF2. Also rf2 got better. Back in the day it used to be the meta to turn both those settings to 0, now alot of sims use the spring for FFb even if its just very slightly. I challenge you to try setting both to 100 and having a go on the newer sims. YW in advance.

[Ochso]

Just to clarify regarding Soft lock saturation setting : I would it assume it works exactly the same as the other saturation sliders : ie above 100 will increase the amount of turn required. below : will reduce it.
So for example if you had soft lock on and it had set the cars wheel to 540 a slide setting of 150 would add an extra %age to the wheels rotation ( up to the wheels calibrated limit) . Never used it so dont know if it uses the already soft lock scaled rotation or the original calibrated rotation.

One other minor thing : 9.80665 Newtons are required for 1 Kg (f=ma). so I believe the force calculations are out by a factor of circa 1 decimal place (t=rFsin(theta) will give results in Newtons if Nm used as torque unit)

[Shaman King]

Publicado originalmente por MajorDizzle:

Publicado originalmente por Zakys:

Still best to turn off spring and dampening. Better ffb. Also turn of collision or give it like 10 to 20 and.leave all else default with 75% strength in profiler if its too much get 75% in profile on the other two sliders also.

I used to do the same thing but after turning them both on for DR2 it is 1000x better and more responsive with it on, also the FFB for ACC is amazing now. I used to think it was trash but turning those on made it almost as good as RF2. Also rf2 got better. Back in the day it used to be the meta to turn both those settings to 0, now alot of sims use the spring for FFb even if its just very slightly. I challenge you to try setting both to 100 and having a go on the newer sims. YW in advance.

So you recommend to use the settings atleast at 75%? I will try it today but i found the ffb too heavy when i turned everything to 100 in profiler i couldnt drive for #### in poland rally for instance

[lich0]

Publicado originalmente por Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !:

Publicado originalmente por Zakys:

I too must thank for all the info guys but everywhere i read to set it 75% and turn off periodic and damper to 0. Is that ok?

outdated information for a specific subset of titles that frankly noone drives today, any longer.

This is very interesting and might mean I've been doing things wrong from the begining. I’ve had the damper set to 0% as well and the FFB felt good in everything except DR2.0 (AC, ACC, Raceroom).

I’ve been increasing the damper setting slowly lately for DR2.0 and it's better even at 40%. With 0% it felt like there’s something missing. I’ll see how 100% works, but I’m afraid it’ll mess up other sims.

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

Publicado originalmente por lich0:

Publicado originalmente por Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !:

outdated information for a specific subset of titles that frankly noone drives today, any longer.

This is very interesting and might mean I've been doing things wrong from the begining. I’ve had the damper set to 0% as well and the FFB felt good in everything except DR2.0 (AC, ACC, Raceroom).

I’ve been increasing the damper setting slowly lately for DR2.0 and it's better even at 40%. With 0% it felt like there’s something missing. I’ll see how 100% works, but I’m afraid it’ll mess up other sims.

Must also have to do with hardware-capabilities, game-engines and whatnot. In my G25-days, any dampening put on in the driver made the wheel feel like a brick. T300? it uses dynamic dampening. Meaning: that number you punch into the driver/profiler is used as a limiter. whatever signal the game gives out will get scaled down (or up) by the number you choose there.

Of course, some very old, vintage games were not written with dynamic friction in mind or just do not give out that part of the signal. And now it is up to the device-driver's implementation if it will substitute a missing signal with full dampening or no dampening.
I can only assume that Thrustmasters driver for the T300 will give you no dampening when there is no signal calling for it.

[Nate]

So i just now finally got a chance to hop on Dirt 2 Rally and wow I'm a Rally god now! that 540 DoR coupled with the settings(i mix and matched but i like what i have) and I'm actually winning stages! i just won one by 19 secs! lmao. So ya TY everyone for all the advice!