T300 Best settings

[Nate]

Can someone point me to a post, or share their settings for in game and what they use on the TM control panel through Windows. I tried to play DR2 on PS4 but it just wasnt there and the FFB felt wonky. I'm hoping the PC version is different or maybe there's a jackspades type file or something idk. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im trying to get this sorted and see if i should buy all the DLC (its 9.99 for GOTY, i have just the game atm)but the sale ends in like 12 hours. Thanks again for any help.

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

try the following:

self-aligning torque: between 65% (for warm climate and 110..120% (studless snow-tyres in Monaco over ice and snow), studded tyres: somewhere around 85..100% for me works best in many cars)

"wheel-friction" (provides static resistance): depending on your preference between 15 and 25..30%. Can vary by car and setup. Filters small detail a little bit the higher you go.

"tyre-friction": I use around 60%

Suspension: try 50% as a starting-point and go find your best setting from there

Collision: useless junk! Keep it low or at zero percent unless you actually like feeling sheetmetal bending and caving in rather than what your car's tyres are doing.

Make sure you calibrate your wheel in-game, though. No matter if you want to use "soft-lock" or not. I feel DR2.0's ffb don't work well without calibration for whatever reason that is.

Steering-center-force only pushes your wheel back to center after a reset. Your choice if you want the convenience.

[Nate]

Ty so much man. I was also wondering what the soft lock setting what. Like if i set it to 150 vs 100 on the slider what does that do?

[karik_FIN_134]

Try these for T300 (with stock 28cm rim)

Thrustmaster Control Panel
- overall strength 100%
- periodic 100%
- constant 100%
- dampers 100%
- springs 100%
- auto-center: 0%, OFF
- allow game to do changes: YES

Degrees of rotation 540 or even less (test 360-470) if u only use paddle shifters on the wheel for shifting. Having over 540 makes it harder to reach paddles in certain situations (in corners etc).

#

In game (with 28cm rim about 3.0Nm of torque or 10-11kg/22-24lbs resistance with these values).

Vibration and feedback menu:
- self aligning torque (SAT): 67
- wheel friction (WF): start with 67, can require changes depending drive-type (fwd, rwd 4wd) or car specific and what setup(location) used, test between 27-100
- tire friction TF): 67 (I keep this always same as SAT value so 67), but test less/more to see if it feel better
- suspension (SUSP): 40 (I set this always to be 60% of the SAT value so 67*0.60 = 40, but even here test less/more to see if it feel better
- collision 0 (or only 5-10) too high value here can make it harder to regain control after a harder hit/collision with something, and suspension also gives feedback when hitting something harder

If ffb is too strong with those then try these (about 33% weaker, 2.0Nm or 15lbs of resistance, similar to logitech wheels on max)
SAT 44 / WF 44 (or between 18-66) / TF 44 / SUSP 26

I recommend to have at least 1.50Nm of ffb or more but maybe don't go over 3.00Nm(not over 67 value in SAT if software is maxed to 100%, wheel could last longer?), if the driver is a kid (under 12yo) or something then maybe have below 1.50Nm.

here's some more presets with 0.25Nm change for testing
0.50Nm with these SAT 11 / WF 11 (or 4-17) / TF 11 / SUSP 7
0.75Nm with these SAT 17 / WF 17 (or 6-26) / TF 17 / SUSP 10
1.00Nm with these SAT 22 / WF 22 (or 8-33) / TF 22 / SUSP 13
1.25Nm with these SAT 28 / WF 28 (or 11-42 / TF 28 / SUSP 17
---
1.50Nm with these SAT 34 / WF 34 (or 13-51) / TF 34 / SUSP 20
1.75Nm with these SAT 39 / WF 39 (or 15-59) / TF 39 / SUSP 23
2.00Nm with these SAT 44 / WF 44 (or 18-66) / TF 44 / SUSP 26
2.25Nm with these SAT 50 / WF 50 (or 20-75 / TF 50 / SUSP 30
2.50Nm with these SAT 56 / WF 56 (or 22-84) / TF 56 / SUSP 34
2.75Nm with these SAT 61 / WF 61 (or 24-92) / TF 61 / SUSP 37
3.00Nm with these SAT 67 / WF 67 (or 27-100) / TF 67 / SUSP 40

If rim is bigger like 30cm or 33cm (aftermarket rims for TM) then use slightly higher values in game to get same amount of feedback (28cm = 11", 30cm = 11.8", 33cm = 13")
Just do simple math to convert the values, 30cm : 28cm * SAT 67, or 33cm : 28cm * SAT 67 etc.

#

other stuff:
- enable Clutch Override ON so u can use clutch (for mainly clutch kicking) when using sequential transmission. U don't need clutch for shifting.

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

coming back to your question about "steering-center-force":
it is almost irrelevant on a T300. It is meant to set the force/speed with which the wheel will try to self-center after an on-track reset. Useful for users of stupid-powerful wheels as to prevent injury in case they decide to use that convenience-function. A T300 cannot physically cause any serious injury when used as intended and supported by the manufacturer. It isn't remotely strong enough to harm you, I would assume.
30nm direct-drive monster-wheels? Sure, there you will think twice about using self-centering at 100%. That is a use-case where you really want to tone that setting down to a fraction of it's full potential. A hard-reset can happen at any time whilst driving in the game, e.g. when you run off track much too far and hit the "invisible wall"-track-limit.

"Soft-lock" is useful if you want to experience every car at it's authentic rotational-window. Many vintage rally-cars were merely strengthened, very lightly-modified production road-cars using standard componentry from the production-line. Including standard steering-racks, often-times having very indirect steering-ratios and resulting lock-stops at up to 3 full rotations of the steering-wheel (or more).
A T300 provides hard lock-stops at ~1080° of rotation, so you can emulate those older cars' steering 1:1 if you want to.
"Soft-lock" implements "soft lock-stops" for cars with a tighter steering-ratio "automatically" using the wheel's FFB and dynamically scaling the steering-window on a per -car basis.
If you choose to use that function, that is. For this to work well you need to set full rotational range in your wheel's driver-settings (which is the default-setting) and then tell DR2.0 what your wheel's native rotational window is (1080° for the T300) and "calibrate" it in-game.

You can still opt to not use that function and fix your wheel's rotational window in the driver to a lower amount.. That way you "normalize" the steering-input for all cars within that game. Less realistic maybe, but potentially a better fit for you. You decide.

I like to use authentic steering-ratios as much as possible. A T300, while still not the fastest auto-rotating wheel on the market, is fast enough to let SAT guide me ~85..90% of the time. And for my personal driving-style, where I try to reduce steering-input to as little as possible in any given situation, I feel the built-in "speed-limit" of the wheel does not hold me back for the most part. It is fast enough for me to still enjoy driving those old cars at 1080° when that is applicable.

[karik_FIN_134]

On T300 base I recommend to limit rotation to 1030 in software even when using soft lock rotations (changing rotations) because at the very end of rotation there's big increase in resistance (on last 2.5% both ways or so) and turning last 25degrees both ways requires more force.
Also that extra resistance at the end is possibly to protect something from breaking inside the base (belt, shaft idk?).
And having full 1080 vs limited to 1030 in total of three cars in the game doesn't change much (those 3 cars are H2 fwd: VW, H2 rwd Fiat, Gr B rwd Porsche)

And anyways don't use soft lock (changing rotation) if your only shifting device is the paddles, those doesn't work well over 540 degrees. If u have H-pattern shifter, sequential stick shifter or u drive on automatic transmission then u can try it.

[Nate]

Ok guys ty for all that. I will definitely try that out. I normally always just leave it at 900 DoR but i can switch it to 1080. I also saw to try 540 so ill try that. Someone else said to do 1080 but then use like 50% steering linearity or something, whatever would cut the DoR in half. Also i know what soft lock is that's why i was wondering what the soft lock 0-150 slider was used for. I have it at 100, but have seen one guy say to use 150. Lol everyone has their own preference so i know ill have to fine tune, im more or less just wondering what exactly the slider does.

I definitely find myself in situations especially when doing RallyX where i cannot shift, or miss a shift because the wheels upside down lol. I am definitely going to look into getting an H pattern shifter, but i feel like a handbrake might be a little more important. I have it as the R3 Button so i can hit it whenever but a full analog handbrake would be sweeet.

Again Ty for all the info, it is a huge help. I want so badly to get the FFB and wheel settings done right so i can try and Git Gud, I love the idea of rally. Oh on a side note i saw a Youtube video of this girl driving on DR2 and she had a different HUD which was a lot like one i use for AC. How do i go about changing that?

Edit: I didn't see you mention the aftermarket Rims from TM which i have. So i will adjust accordingly.

[karik_FIN_134]

Are u driving on manual gearbox or automatic? If u drive on manual do u have a shifter other than paddles on the wheel? If not then stay at 540degrees and set this in software (or test even 360-470) and put soft lock OFF in the game so it doesn't mess up things.

Paddle shifters are not good once wheel turns more than 540 and even then it can be pain to reach them in mid-corners if u need to go gear up/down (it can often happen that u enter the corner with too low/high gear if u are unfamiliar with stages and then want to shift down/up but can't reach paddles well anymore when wheel is turned 180degrees or a bit more).

[Nate]

Ya I'm using paddles and only paddles right now. Someone said that at lower DoR the FFB gets weaker so i never tried 540, but i will the next time i fire up the game.

[karik_FIN_134]

Ffb actually becomes stronger with lower rotation (and weaker with higher degrees) or so it feels for me (I'm not on T300 anymore but it was like that with that too).

And as u said in your previous comment u already had issues with finding paddles in RX cars so only use 540degrees and set it to wheel software (and try even something between 360-470). And in game turn off the soft lock setting.
Modern day rally driver use about 470 degrees in R5 4wd class and in R2 fwd class which we have in this game and maybe 540 in R-GT rwd cars.

After calibration in game u will have steering saturation at 100% which is okay, no need to change this when a specific rotation like 540 is set to wheel software, steering linearity can stay at 0 (otherwise it becomes a curve).

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

Originally posted by Dizzlekrew:

I definitely find myself in situations especially when doing RallyX where i cannot shift, or miss a shift because the wheels upside down lol. I am definitely going to look into getting an H pattern shifter, but i feel like a handbrake might be a little more important. I have it as the R3 Button so i can hit it whenever but a full analog handbrake would be sweeet.

In that case I suggest you prioritize a shifter first. A handbrake really isn't used all that much in real rally. Maybe more-so in Rally-X (which I do not really play all that much) - so ymmv -- but in actual stage-rally time-trial, I don't really see the need to have one (for just this game). Nice-to-have, sure! But not an out-right "need". Especially since the T300's base offers two right-side buttons. I usually map "button 12" for handbrake-function. I am used to shifting with my right hand and reaching for that button with my right hand (i.e. my right thumb) feels almost natural for me on the rare occasions that I need to use it.

Regarding steering-lock: At least the modern Rally-X cars should almost all use very tight steering-racks in the 540..560° range. So for them, using soft-lock on a calibrated wheel will give you exactly that. Maybe you have to load the correct pre-baked wheel-profile and re-do your key-mapping and wheel-calibration. I cannot recall a soft-lock adjustment-slider, at all. Which would also beat the purpose of having wheel-calibration when thinking about it.

540° is what most modern high-level rally competition-cars use - but they also use static, column-mounted shift-pedals when outfitted with sequential transmissions. Thrustmaster used to build those into their old T500-wheel. And they used to sell them stand-alone as an add-on mod for their other T-series wheels. If you really wanna go all-out for sim-rally, you will be able to find third-party mods that sell rally-type push-pull shifter-pedals for that purpose. A costly boutique-item, for sure. But it is out there.

The more I drive in this game, though, I can think of less and less need to shift when counter-steering at near full lock on a modern car. I tend to shift looking ahead and before any counter-steering occurs. And the old ones usually use h-shifter "standard transmissions" - and I am happy to do so, as well. But maybe, again, that is a Rally-X thing that I am blissfully-ignorant to.

[Shaman King]

I too must thank for all the info guys but everywhere i read to set it 75% and turn off periodic and damper to 0. Is that ok?

[karik_FIN_134]

Well u can set it overall strength to 75% in TM software but then u need to increase in game ffb values by extra 33%. This could also cause issues if SAT has to be like 95 then having Wheel Friction at 100 might not be nowhere near enough and I don't recommend going over 100 values but u could try going over it too if needed.

What comes to periodic and damper at 0% not sure, some of the effects in game might need those but try with and without them to see what feels better for you.

So try
Thrustmaster Control Panel
- overall strength, change 100% -> 75%
- periodic, change 100% -> 0%
- constant 100%
- dampers, change 100% -> 0%
- springs 100%
- auto-center: 0%, OFF
- allow game to do changes: YES

In game values with a 30cm 11.8" rim (vibration &feedback menu) and with wheel software changes above
1.50Nm with these SAT 48 / WF 48 (or 19-72) / TF 48 / SUSP 29
1.75Nm with these SAT 56 / WF 56 (or 22-84) / TF 56 / SUSP 34
2.00Nm with these SAT 64 / WF 64 (or 25-96) / TF 64 / SUSP 38
2.25Nm with these SAT 72 / WF 72 (or 28-108 / TF 72 / SUSP 43
2.50Nm with these SAT 80 / WF 80 (or 32-120) / TF 80 / SUSP 48
2.75Nm with these SAT 88 / WF 88 (or 35-132) / TF 88 / SUSP 53
3.00Nm with these SAT 96 / WF 96 (or 38-144) / TF 96 / SUSP 58

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

Originally posted by Zakys:

I too must thank for all the info guys but everywhere i read to set it 75% and turn off periodic and damper to 0. Is that ok?

outdated information for a specific subset of titles that frankly noone drives today, any longer.

[EF_Neo1st]

FFB is subjective to taste and expectancy and what is better or worst may vary from player to player, so even with all advices given, keep trying the settings until you find what you think is the best for you.
People here also gave info about the FFB settings to help with that too.

Remember you can feel through FFB:
- track details
- weight transfer
- wheels locking
- grip levels and gradual grip levels
If you want to feel more or less of something, or if that is something you dont want to feel, just tweak the FFB settings until you get where you want.

Either way, obviously, people shared their experience with FFB and what work for them, so if you are in doubt, give a try and feel the FFB to find the one setting that work the best for you :D

[Shaman King]

Still best to turn off spring and dampening. Better ffb. Also turn of collision or give it like 10 to 20 and.leave all else default with 75% strenght in profiler ifits too much get 75% in profile on the other two sliders also.