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If you accept that the problem might have been one faulty unit or -indeed you setting it up incorrectly- then Thrustmaster's concurrent offerings (T500 has been EOL for a couple of years, now) are still worthy a recommendation.
If you want the cheapest-possible, worthwhile alternative an egg-shaped Logitech G-series wheel is a great buy, but performance-wise: they are tied with the low-end Thrustmaster "T150" and "TMX" models for weakest-output but still perfectly-usable-for-the-simracing-beginner wheels.
Dirt 2.0 has the same "problem" as all other worthwhile driving-SIM-games: it needs a little time for the user to set up and configure inputs correctly.
Sorry to hear that your first experience did not exactly go to plan. Just be advised that no consumer wheel will work and perform perfectly out of the box with zero effort given to setting it up in the games/sims you'll want to play. The truth is: there is always an element of personal preference involved and all of the modern consumer-wheel will have some sorts ot driver-updates and/or firmware-update procedure re-occuring periodically to make them compatible with the newest add-ons and/or OS-updates.
Wheel-support in DR2.0 / PC is acually rather good all things considered. Sadly you did not get to experience it, yet, when working on all cylinders.
So yeah: Throw a coin and go for whatever you like. If you are looking for an equally-strong wheel as compared to what the T500 should have been, look no cheaper than:
• Thrustmaster "TS-PC racer" (PC-only variant) or sister-models (for either xbox OR PS4)
• one of the Fanatec "CSL-elite" wheelbases.
And don't try to rush through the process of setting things up with no matter what wheel you are going to get. I would actually suggest you plan some etra free time to really follow through with an open mind and without any pressing deadline.
Since the T500 was replaced by the T300, I have to assume you purchased the T500 second hand from ebay or somewhere else??
If so, buying a second hand wheel is always a risk, as you just dont know what sort of life its had. It could have been in a cupboard for years and barely used, it could have been used respectfully for years, or it could have been abused and overworked. Its the chance taken for a cheaper starting price. That said, you can sometimes buy a brand new wheel that will be dead on arrival; or break soon after. Same as any electronic device with moving parts. I have had a Thrustmaster TX wheel in the past that burnt out after 6 months of use. But I also had the paddle shifters on a Logitech G920 suffer with an issue where they would activate both when pressed (as they should do) and released (something they should never do). Things happen sometimes.
Sending it back is a wise idea.
Currently events may be limiting how fast they can respond to support tickets, and even then, it could take a couple of days under normal circumstances anyway.
Simple answer is no, as mentioned above. Its really just the luck of the draw when it comes to electronics, some units fail, as annoying as that is.
I have had a Thrustmaster T300 RS-GT for the last 3 years now, and that is still going strong. To the point I just purchased the Thrustmaster Sparco R383 Rally wheel add on to take the place of the still fully functional GT rim. I advise them as a good purchase, because you can buy the servo base on its own with the pedals and wheel rim of your choice, or you can buy it in a kit with the pedals and wheel rim with it. I bought the T300 RS-GT kit, which included T3PA pedals in the box. The T3PA pedals have throttle, brake and clutch. I have since upgraded to the T3PA Pro, as they can be inverted by design into GT style pedals (like you get in a normal car). I also own two Thrustmaster TH8A shifters, one to use as a H-pattern shifter, the other is used as a handbrake. Their hardware is usually fairly robust.
The logitech G29/G920 is a good starting point, but so is the T300 RS-GT if you can find a good deal on it. If you have the cash spare, I would say to get the T300 RS-GT kit, as it offers future expandability that the Logitech wheels just do not have. It will save you having to by another wheel from a different manufacturer later. Or heavily modify the Logitech wheel, which could lower its lifespan significantly.
Fanatec wheels, while great options, will also be the most time consuming to setup right. They have the most adjustment options for force feedback over any belt driven consumer wheel. The only wheels offering more adjustment, are direct drive wheels. But your getting into hardcore levels of sim racing hardware at that point.
The Thrustmaster T300 was the direct replacement of the T500. It has a very small difference in terms of total motor output, but because of the brushless motor design in the T300, feels far better and moves with less resistance than the T500 before it. They are essentially the same wheel, to the point the T300 can even have the T500 static paddle shifters mounted to it.
The TS-PC Racer (and the Xbox equivalent), is Thrustmaster's response to Fanatecs belt drive wheels. It is much more comparable in motor output to them. Fanatec is a great option, in my opinion, if you are jumping from a Logitech wheel of any type, or are starting from scratch and already know you will like sim racing on a racing wheel from prior experience them. Otherwise the only viable upgrade route from a Thrustmaster belt driven wheel base (T300, TX or TS-PC), is right into the realms of direct drive.
My advice to the OP, is to buy either a Logitech G29/G920. Or if they want future expandability, to buy the T300 RS-GT kit. But if they have good experience at all with racing wheels, they know for sure they will like sim racing on one. To look at Fanatec as an option also.
if you plan on ever trying out simracing on a Linux-based system, then the only wheels usable I am aware of are indeed the Fanatec and Logitech offerings. Thrustmaster sadly is not interested in facilitating the use of their wheels on GNU/Linux and no other boutique "direct-drive" outlet has yet openly engaged in Linux-support.
And it works very well and better than anything else I've had. So the pedals and steering wheel work really well.
But it goes wrong with buttons already in control panel in Windows, where only the buttons there are on the Steering wheel base itself work, only Nos 11 – 12 and the 2 digital gearshift levers (Up & Down) But all buttons on the Steering wheel itself have no contact to anything in the control panel
Neither did D-pad
So either there is something wrong with the switch in steering wheel or in steering wheel base
Your only options are to send it back to where you got it from and get a refund, or buy a replacement wheel rim, as the T500 is expandable with different wheels. The T500 wheel base is long past its support cycle in Thrustmaster, I have no idea if they will help you without a possible large repair bill, since that wheel hasnt been sold as new since about 2013/2014.
The T500 wheel base should be compatible with all the add-ons Thrustmaster make for their eco systems newer wheel bases. Such as the Rally Sparco Rim I mentioned above. Which is why I mention a replacement wheel rim as a possible solution. But if its the wheel base itself that is faulty, its a large expanse to take a risk on. It could pay off, or it could leave you more out of pocket.
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/rally-wheel-add-sparco-r383-mod
As I mentioned above, given how long the T500 has been out of production and sale as new, you must have a pre-owned unit. SO its hit and miss as to the life it could have had with its previous owner/owners.
No, it's not a used steering wheel
But a brand new one, but I have the right of withdrawal on it, as I've only had it for 4 days.
Did not know the T500 has been replaced by the T300 !
So it's got to go back and then I'm going to have to look at all the suggestions that have come. Thanks for that
Its not impossible to find unopened boxes of game playing hardware, but yeh, as I mentioned above. The T500 has not been in active sale by Thrustmaster since 2013/2014. Which coincided with when the Thrustmaster TX released for the Xbox one/pc (900 degree only), and the T300 released for the Playstation 4/pc (full 1080 degree like the T500).
I do kind of suspect the seller you got the wheel from, may be on a bit of a con though. Where did you buy it from???
ALTERNATE GmbH
Philipp-Reis-Str. 2-3
35440 Linden
Tyskland
If the T300 is new compared to the T500 why does the T300 cost less?
Pedals look like something in the cheap price range?
The original retail price of the T500 was much higher at about £500, as it was made at a time when the hardware was considered more premium and less mainstream than they are in now 2020. 1080° rotation wheels where pretty much unheard off when the T500 released (2010), in fact, it may have been the first one released with that rotation amount, at least as a consumer product. The only other viable alternative at the time, was the Logitech G25 and G27 (G27 released 2010 also), which where at 900° of rotation for about £400 itself. As both the Logitech G25/G27 and the Thrustmaster T500RS sold with throttle, brake and clutch pedal sets in the box. They was the only comparable wheel products at or above 900° of rotation at the time. The only cheaper alternative at the time that offered 900° of rotation, was the Logitech DFGT, which was good for what it was, but only sold with a throttle and brake; and that pedal set left a lot to be desired when compared to pedals included with the G25 and G27 wheels.
The seller you purchased it from appear to be selling the T500 for around that original price point. I looked them up from your information. Not heard of them before here in the UK, but as said, its not unheard off for unopened and unsold stock to be sold as new sometimes. Still, the wheel face buttons not working is an issue. But I doubt that Thrustmaster themselves will help with, given they discontinued manufacture of the T500 so long ago.
T500 was released during the PS3-days, T300 got introduced with the PS4-generation.
T300 is what I have used for 3+ years now, starting with the final release of Dirt Rally 1. The cooling-fan is slightly annoying. And I had to re-lubricate it a few months ago as it "lost" oil out of it's cheap sleeve-bearing. The achiles-heel is the pretty-but-compromised housing with the power-supply integrated into it and very few thoughts invested into actual ventilation. Other than that: it works rather well - just not when I try using it on Linux, sadly!
The reason why I recommend going one tier higher is exactly that: the cooling-system in the "TS-PC" and it's sister-wheels is only cooling the electric motor. The power-supply is an external unit. That means you can run it harder without making it overheat within minutes - let alone that they have a slightly raised sustained output.
End of 2019 will see the arrival of an entirely new console-generation. If tha past is anything to go by, I expect all 3 of the major consumer-brands to ready new (even if only in appearance and data-protocol) wheels for either major console-system...
...or they might realise these toys are now expensive enough door-stoppers that people might walk the other way if they (the console-vendors and their business-partners) broke compatibility with the older wheels...
...time will tell.
ps.: all potentiometer-based "throwen-in" pedals suck in one way or another. But for the first year or so they're fine to start with. I went more casual a few years down the rabbit-hole and only just made the switch to a set of inexpensive pedals with load-cell brake-pedal. Life is indeed much nicer with a load-cell!
did you start configuring your wheel in DR 2.0 by actually loading a canned profile for the T500 ( if there is one)? Could be you omitted that step... ...and thereby your configuration misses the special keys descriptions in the config-file that are missing for you? Should be a preset for any variant of the T500 thas was sold as a package.
Could be this means you have to re-do the customizing-steps, but if that cures your issue, I guess it is worth a shot?
And make sure the device-(driver) settings window is closed when you start the game.
Its not a debatable subject at all, its simple fact. Thrustmaster was given the rights to allow the T500 to work on the PS4, but stopped production of it prior to the T300 releasing. Thats why the T300 can be used with the T500 static shifters, because they are essentially the same wheel at the core. Baring a few changes.
I have had my T300 for 3 years also, it has been used heavily in that time. I have not had to open up the casing for any reason, the wheel, the cooling fan and PSU all work as intended. Not everyone is going to have this experience, and will also come down to how you have your wheel set. Ideally you dont want the force feedback maxed out, because that just muddies up the signal and makes the effects less effective. This, again, is a known and accepted fact of force feedback wheels going all the way back the past 20 years.
This is a very small use case scenario. While there are more games on Linux than even before, including some decent racing games. They are ports, and most people accept they need Windows in order to game fully on a PC. More options are nice, but again, small use case.
The TS-PC is a great wheel to recommend, but it isnt cheap. Its on the price level of a Fanatec wheel, and not something I would personally recommend, unless its to replace an older wheel that is broken; and the individual in questions knows they like sim racing and has experience using sim racing hardware.
TS-PC Racer wheel is £500 in the UK with the TM open wheel rim, not exactly a great choice for a rally game. The TS-PC Racer with Ferrari 488 challenge rim is £549.99. Neither version comes with pedals, so that is a bare minimum of another £80 on top for a set of T3PA pedals, or £149.99 for the T3PA Pro pedals. So that is £600+ all in just for a wheel and pedals. Thats not a cheap prospect for a lot of people.
The TS-XW is even more expensive at £649.99, again, without a set of pedals in the box.
The T-GT is the only higher end wheel Thrustmaster sell with a set of T3PA pedals in the box, at a whopping £699.99.
The T300 RS-GT, in comparison, is £369.99 from Thrustmaster directly, and comes with a set of T3PA pedals in the box.
The T300 servo base alone direct from Thrustmaster is £249, so if the op was to build their own T300 kit from just the serve base, thats could be -
T300 servo base - £249.99
Sparco Rally rim - £179.99 (can be found cheaper, I just bought mine for £150)
T3PA Pro pedals - £149.99 (Same pedals that came with the T500)
== £579.97 all in.
Which do you think is the more reasonable setup to recommend?
Hell, they could even buy the new T-LCM load cell pedals for £179.99, and still only be paying a little more than the TS-PC wheel base costs, and have a much better rim for rally and 90% of racing titles than the open wheel rim.
Microsoft have already confirmed, multiple times, that all current xbox one controllers, including 3rd party racing wheels, will be compatible with the new Xbox console on the way. The new Series X controller will also work on the original Xbox one, as they are going for full cross device compatibility going forward. At least in regards to the Series X and Xbox One.
I have no idea what Sony are planning.
The OP states they tested in windows in one of their previous postings.
The only thing I can suggest, which I dont know has been done yet. Is updating the wheel to its latest firmware. It is possible that the wheel is running on ancient firmware that is not compatible with Windows 10.
Firmware T500 series = 47.00
Also tried on 2 different computer and no contact in control panel in Windows
And I'm not even about to dismantle anything in that steering wheel, and the warranty's going to fall away.
So it gets sent back, cost it. Hope I can get my money back so I can buy some of what you've suggested.
But Fanatec. is too high a price and it should suit Rally and Assetto Corsa. Not running F1