Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
Those with center-diff: very tight might be nice for sand-dunes, but not so great for mixed traction surfaces
Without center-diff: loosen front&rear on coast. Not too tight on power (rear is typically a little more than front) - then don't forget to lift the throttle when you want the car to turn into the corner sharper.
don't run too much ARB in front (but not too little, either), have some negative suspension-travel accounted for on rougher stages
if you suffer from initial understeel: a little more negative toe on the front, a little less negative camber on the rear might be worth a shot.
mid-corner ? try setting the rear toe less positive, possibly even a click or two into the negative (depending on the car)
snap-oversteer mid-turn? probably too much rear ARB and/or too much rear negative camber.
and last but not least:
setup seems fine allround, but still cannot make the turn? learn how to position the car better, introduce "faking the turn" into the mix (aka "Scandinavian flick")
A technique for loose surfaces specifically: get some weight over the front wheels, turn to the outside of the corner, feel the car lean, now flick it the right way around into the corner, make the weight shift to the outside-wheels. Once the front begins to point near the direction you want to go, accelerate smoothly and re-center the wheel.
You can of course modify this technique in more aggressive ways, but this is the basic principle. You need proper control over your pedals for this. The idea is that the car only begins to slide, once you flick it back into the corner (if you want it to slide that is). But crucially this technique allows you to use the car's weight as to make sure it steers into the direction you want, even if grip and traction are un-steady and just turning the front wheels as in normal city-driving would not suffice.
try with
- Cambers set similarly like -1.00 and -1.00 on gravel+snow (or have less at rear like -1.20 and -1.00), on asphalt+Monaco -1.75 and -1.75 or even 1.90 and -1.75 etc
Differential:
- driving locks set for example F 30 and R 50 (30 out of 80 means front has 40% lock and rear 60% lock on throttle and this should give oversteer)
- braking locks for example 30 and 50 (should give some oversteer when turning into corner and simultaneously being on brakes)
- preloads also similarly about 30.00 and 50.00 (lift-off/coasting should not cause understeer)
- center diff down to what front is set or even lower and/or reduce center kgf-m value and/or torque bias towards rear
[example: front driv 30, brak 30, preload 30.00 / center 30, 30, 30.00 or 10-12kgf-m(very low), tq bias 45%(front) / rear driv 50, brak 50, preload 50.00]
- Spring rates: have smaller difference between front and rear, if they are now F 80N/mm and R 50N/mm put them like 80N/mm and 65-70N/mm and now rear has less grip. Usually have about 10-15N/mm softer rear spring(than front is) so it absorbs properly landings from bigger jumps+bumps.
- Anti roll-bars: have front arb stronger than rear (example if they are 10 and 10 then put 12 and 10 or 10 and 8 etc)
U can find my setups from this spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B0MNyHmtHrl0PN2R18tQ4mBkaqnouWR_dm6MPHu3qhE/pubhtml
choose DR2.0 location and then scroll down on the page to find setups
You might want to check that.
There might be some understeer, but it shouldn't be that bad even on default setups.