Logitech G27 Settings

[Shaggy555]

Hi all - Im getting the goty edition in afew days and just wanted to see if anyone had any good g27 settings for me. I hate having to spend hours messing around with settings and just wanna get straight into the game. Cheers.

[mattshep69]

I have a G29 which is basically the same wheel, just the new version of the G27, so my settings should be OK for you. Having said that FFB is highly personal, so if you want it to feel different just post here and I will try to help you.

I found the default FFB to be way too heavy and prevented the smaller FFB signals from being felt correctly. My current set up is light providing a reasonable balance for smaller signals and allows me to be able to be able to counter steer quickly.

[mattshep69]

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1939936392

[Shaggy555]

Thanks m8 that will be very helpful. Peace!

[Joe Pascal]

Originally posted by mattshep69:

I have a G29 which is basically the same wheel, just the new version of the G27, so my settings should be OK for you. Having said that FFB is highly personal, so if you want it to feel different just post here and I will try to help you.

I found the default FFB to be way too heavy and prevented the smaller FFB signals from being felt correctly. My current set up is light providing a reasonable balance for smaller signals and allows me to be able to be able to counter steer quickly.

I have a G29 too and also turned down the FFB. It's a common thing for this wheel, I sometimes get scared the thing is going to shake itself to bits so I opt for a more 'delicate' feel.

[Denkis]

Originally posted by mattshep69:

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1939936392

What's your opinion on Wheel Friction? I've been told I should turn it down more or less to 0 because the G29 already has its own dampening. But I'm not sure if I understand what dampening is. I have mine set to 0 and I feel like it's easier to turn the wheel to opposite sides etc so I can react quicker. Does 0 wheel friction mean the forces don't kick in until I stop turning i.e. when the wheel starts centering?

[mattshep69]

The link below is a guide from CM for this game. IMHO turning down wheel friction all the way, is loosing what little road surface/tyre slip FFB, you get in this game. Don't get me wrong the FFB is OK, but could be better. Some signals such as cattle grids are too high, others such as tyre slip effect and road surface feel are too low. It's self aligning torque I have set lower as this makes the wheel to difficult to counter steer quick as it feels like driving through treacle, this is also why I have centring force turned off as well. To get the feeling you want focus on balancing, self aligning torque, wheel friction and tyre friction. Experiment by turning one of the sliders to 100 and set the other two values to 30, after you have tried all three combinations you will start to get an understanding, for how you would like to set the FFB up.

SELF-ALIGNING TORQUE
Gives weight to the steering, if set to high makes the wheel feel sluggish, when trying to counter steer quick.

WHEEL FRICTION
Helps with a little bit of tyre slip feel, to sense the edge of grip.

SUSPENSION
Set this high for better road surface feel.

TYRE SLIP & Engine
This is FFB for, game pad rumble effect only.

COLLISION
Set this quiet low, as this FFB can be an interference if set to high, (reduces the cattle grid effect slightly).

http://blog.codemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Multi-Input-Device-System-for-DiRT-Rally-2-0-Master.pdf

[Denkis]

Originally posted by mattshep69:

The link below is a guide from CM for this game. IMHO turning down wheel friction all the way, is loosing what little road surface/tyre slip FFB, you get in this game...

http://blog.codemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Multi-Input-Device-System-for-DiRT-Rally-2-0-Master.pdf

"WHEEL FRICTION: This scales the constant friction/weight of the steering device

TYRE FRICTION:This scales the dynamic friction of the tyre. This is the resistance of the tyre to turn."

Are you sure wheel friction affects tyre friction like that?

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

My take on this: "Wheel friction" DESTROYS most of what is good about their current ffb implementation on the more affordable wheels. "Tyre friction" on the other hand I feel gives us that dynamism of tyre-load in the heft of the ffb.
All in all, just having so many options to "mix our own signal" is testament to the fact that their way of producing ffb is somewhat lacking and at least partially fictional. Does not mean it isn't capable or of use to some the way it is - it just leaves a sour aftertaste knowing that other games give you a "gain"-slider per car and an option to chose additional "canned effects" clearly maked as such.

With this game: You actually use a steering-wheel? O.K. here is some "stuff", now figure out the rest yourselves! And then they did not carry-over setup-sharing through the steam-workshop to confuse everybody even further...
...Thing is, as other simulations successfully show: less is more.
ps.: the biggest sin of this game being: every single slider turned up to eleven per default and no help-text (as opposed to the first one where at least tool-tips were implemented)

[mattshep69]

Originally posted by Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !:

My take on this: "Wheel friction" DESTROYS most of what is good about their current ffb implementation on the more affordable wheels. "Tyre friction" on the other hand I feel gives us that dynamism of tyre-load in the heft of the ffb.
All in all, just having so many options to "mix our own signal" is testament to the fact that their way of producing ffb is somewhat lacking and at least partially fictional. Does not mean it isn't capable or of use to some the way it is - it just leaves a sour aftertaste knowing that other games give you a "gain"-slider per car and an option to chose additional "canned effects" clearly maked as such.

With this game: You actually use a steering-wheel? O.K. here is some "stuff", now figure out the rest yourselves! And then they did not carry-over setup-sharing through the steam-workshop to confuse everybody even further...
...Thing is, as other simulations successfully show: less is more.
ps.: the biggest sin of this game being: every single slider turned up to eleven per default and no help-text (as opposed to the first one where at least tool-tips were implemented)

Can you please share you FFB settings and what wheel type you are using please Simon.

[mattshep69]

Originally posted by Denkis:

Originally posted by mattshep69:

The link below is a guide from CM for this game. IMHO turning down wheel friction all the way, is loosing what little road surface/tyre slip FFB, you get in this game...

http://blog.codemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Multi-Input-Device-System-for-DiRT-Rally-2-0-Master.pdf

"WHEEL FRICTION: This scales the constant friction/weight of the steering device

TYRE FRICTION:This scales the dynamic friction of the tyre. This is the resistance of the tyre to turn."

Are you sure wheel friction affects tyre friction like that?

IMHO, both wheel helps with feel of the road and tyre slip, but as I have said before this kind of thing is very personal and results in people being happy with wildly different set ups. tyre friction/slip is a rumble FFB efect for game pad users. These values are greyed out if you are using a FFB wheel.

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

Originally posted by mattshep69:

Can you please share you FFB settings and what wheel type you are using please Simon.

gear:
Thrustmaster T300 with 30cm Alcantara wheel,
recently upgraded to / paired with Fanatec CSL load-cell pedals (their most-affordable stuff)
wheel-settings:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2060720985
I do not claim to be right on all accounts or any of them. I just feel more detail with these settings than with the stock ones. For me that is a win. Please keep in mind that ALL consumer-wheels are flawed in some way or another. So that is where the knobs and sliders CAN come in handy. But ultimately I really do favour the "less is more" approach. If your physics are broken, don't try to overcompensate with wheel/ffb settings.

[mattshep69]

Originally posted by Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !:

Originally posted by mattshep69:

Can you please share you FFB settings and what wheel type you are using please Simon.

gear:
Thrustmaster T300 with 30cm Alcantara wheel,
recently upgraded to / paired with Fanatec CSL load-cell pedals (their most-affordable stuff)
wheel-settings:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2060720985
I do not claim to be right on all accounts or any of them. I just feel more detail with these settings than with the stock ones. For me that is a win. Please keep in mind that ALL consumer-wheels are flawed in some way or another. So that is where the knobs and sliders CAN come in handy. But ultimately I really do favour the "less is more" approach. If your physics are broken, don't try to overcompensate with wheel/ffb settings.

Thanks Simon.

Do you find the high self aligning torque setting makes the wheel difficult to turn quick and drowns out other signals?

I am interested to try your settings though, as I am always open to other set ups :-).

[Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !]

I think SAT _is_ the main signal. It is what gets "measured" at the steering-column more or less. So for me personally I _want_ it to dominate. And I do change it around on a by-car + by-surface basis. Sweden needs the biggest boost (15..20 points) because of the narrow, studded tyres. But then different cars have a different built-in gain. The Lancia S4 rx car that I tried the other day in a daily in "Hell" was suffering from exaggerated SAT-gain, so I had to turn down sat in the settings by at least 30 points to make it not clip the signal. It is obvious they did this for more "immersion" and to make cars feel vastly different to each other ... but it does make it a bit tricky to extract the most out of our cheaper non-direct-drive wheels that way.
iirc the settings in the screenshot were the ones I used in an R2 or R5 car in Australia stage-rally.
Notice even I had 10% "wheel-friction" on? Back with my G25 in the dr1 days, I used to keep that at zero. With the T300 it seems it does not irritate it too much (still it is a form of filter-setting I feel, so beware it will make counter-steering more problematic if set too high).

[mattshep69]

Originally posted by Simon said EAT DUST PLAYER_1 !:

I think SAT _is_ the main signal. It is what gets "measured" at the steering-column more or less. So for me personally I _want_ it to dominate. And I do change it around on a by-car + by-surface basis. Sweden needs the biggest boost (15..20 points) because of the narrow, studded tyres. But then different cars have a different built-in gain. The Lancia S4 rx car that I tried the other day in a daily in "Hell" was suffering from exaggerated SAT-gain, so I had to turn down sat in the settings by at least 30 points to make it not clip the signal. It is obvious they did this for more "immersion" and to make cars feel vastly different to each other ... but it does make it a bit tricky to extract the most out of our cheaper non-direct-drive wheels that way.
iirc the settings in the screenshot were the ones I used in an R2 or R5 car in Australia stage-rally.
Notice even I had 10% "wheel-friction" on? Back with my G25 in the dr1 days, I used to keep that at zero. With the T300 it seems it does not irritate it too much (still it is a form of filter-setting I feel, so beware it will make counter-steering more problematic if set too high).

Thanks for reply Simon. I have often thought that the different cars required different settings, but I could never be bothered enough to do it, I just tried to find a happy medium for the cars I most frequently drive. Also like you said the locations can make a lot of difference to. Frequently I thought, oh the've updated the FFB, but they hadn't.