Porsche 911 - who can brake this wild horse?

[Spaguar]

I never drove Porsche in real life but I just can't believe that it could be as driver-unfriendly as in DR2.0. This car constantly works against the driver, just waiting to spin. Even if I try the "senior citizen's driving" with minimum throttle and only on the straights, I will spin at least once. Apart from spinning, it is much more sensitive in contact with stones than any other DR2.0 car. I enjoy driving other RWD cars on any surface. It's just this Porsche that I really can't stand.
Your experience?

[CptCookiediet]

haha same here. I foolishly tried to use it in championship without actually learning to drive it first. I gave up rather quickly and went back to my Fiesta. I'm sure with A LOT of practice you can actually make this car work for you.

[karik_FIN_134]

Do u mean R-GT class 911 because there's also 911 in Gb B rwd?

[Spaguar]

Originally posted by karik_FIN_134:

Do u mean R-GT class 911 because there's also 911 in Gb B rwd?

I'm not really sure but I'd say the latest available.

[zefrancou]

Increase the final drive of the gear box and the length of each gear.
Stiffen front springs and antiroll bar
Soften Back springs and antiroll bar.
Toe front at -0.6
camber rear minimum
rear differential between 10 and 25%
Preload LSD 70 NM

I could survive a few tracks with this :)))) for both 911 CS and GT

[karik_FIN_134]

Gr B rwd Porsche is latest and it's fine to drive after some setup changes, gearing by default is way too long what I remember and that effect handling of the car making it worse, top speed of 185kph 115mph is high enough. Reduce rear braking lock in differential too if u spin a lot with it when braking/slowing down.

On gravel+snow rallies put front camber to around -0.50 and rear camber to -1.00, u can try increasing these values slightly for medium & heavy gravel rallies to see if it gives more lateral grip. On asphalt u might also need more negative camber than those -0.50 / -1.00, maybe -1.00 and -1.50.

If u have diffuculties with oversteering on throttle then reduce driving lock and also braking lock along with it, have 15-20% lower braking lock than driving lock is in rwd cars.

Then brake bias for asphalt need to be set more to back from default 79%, try 1-click less, was it at 74% then. If u have it on default 79% and u need to drive with wet tires on wet/dry asphalt it locks up too easily.

[Spaguar]

Thank you guys, will try both. I hope it will help because my wife does not appreciate me swearing loud while I play

[Axe]

I hate these cars because if they require so much 'tweaking' with most being extreme then why are they in rallies in the first place.

The only breaking I would like to do would be with a sledgehammers and 3 burly mates!

What next these?

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1811942624

[Spaguar]

Exactly - it´s like taking the moto-gp Honda to a motocross event.

[Axe]

Thanks mod -

[dss1970]

Originally posted by zefrancou:

Increase the final drive of the gear box and the length of each gear.
Stiffen front springs and antiroll bar
Soften Back springs and antiroll bar.
Toe front at -0.6
camber rear minimum
rear differential between 10 and 25%
Preload LSD 70 NM

I could survive a few tracks with this :)))) for both 911 CS and GT

Thanks for the suggestions. I was struggling with both the 911's and this helped a lot.

[Aurora]

Rotate it early so you don't have to rotate it aggressively. The back carries so much momentum that it'll be almost impossible to recover if you throw it too hard. If you start your entry rotation earlier you can be a lot smoother with it and therefore catch it much more easily.
Trail braking is also a must in the Porsches if you want any sort of direction from the car.

This was one of my daily runs. It was #6 when the daily concluded. Made more difficult by the max surface wear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epqTJ2HO4NI