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Seawater-cooling is now (after Spacve DLC) to most less effective cooling-method (was the best before Space DLC).
Regardless of small pump or big pump, they are not able to pump in more than 10 l/s from the sea.(befor 35 - 70 l/s).
I have opened a bug regarding the 10 l/s issue, and the answer was in short form:
"Deal with it, that's the new standard because of pressure based algos...".
So... the best way for now, I found are the 5x5 fan-radiators(+ 1 pump).
Heat-sinks might be the more realsistic option (heat-sink below the boat...touching the sea-water), but the radiators are still more efficient.
thank you. i was afraid it was something like that. And Merry Christmas, or Happy Holidays if that better suits you!
problem. neither the radiators or heat sinks have done anything. still overheats after going no more than 2.5 Km. whats weird is the radiator say they are only 36 degrees in detail mode while the engine is at 97. thats with and without water tank and with and without pump. electric is hooked up and they are turned on. the devs really just need to get a handle on this, its no fun to spend over a week working on a destroyer just to have its range be 2.5 Km before it needs a 20 or more minute breather. I'd let it borrow my inhaler, but the air flow seems in working order.
no matter... thanks for the suggestion, even if the game still hates engines.
Other new issue, which might could casue issues..the electric valves.
You need to have power at well over 94 percent to have them working as expected.
I.e at 89 percent, my valves showed "on", but were closed until my battery went to >95 percent.
Best use a battery-charger before critical components like important valves and cooling-pumps.
I am just back from a 1 hour test-trip with my sub.
Here the diesel runs all the time underwater using 2 3x3 electric radiators.
The engine has 2 cylinder 3x3. I am using only one small pump per loop.
This gives me a flow-rate of about 130 l/s...which is much more compared to pre Space DLC.
The engine is set to 23 RPS and goes down to 11 RPS as soon as the cliutch to the generators are closed.
After about one hour I have had 104 degrees steady. Not the best, but ok within a closed loop.
I tested this within the southern part of the map (so about 29 degrees env temp).
Again, make sure you have a steady/stable flow when looking at your cooling-manifold.
...and...you too....Merry Christmas :-)
Btw, the liquid-to-liquid heat-exchangers have (had) some issue, where the cylinder-side must be on the B-loop to have some kind of cooling. Not sure if this is still the case.
I didn't have nice results with this setup in the past, so I switched to the electric-radiators in my sub (which is a bit unrealistic..but works for me).
What kind of engine controller are you using? If the Air/Fuel ratio is not ideal, it will produce an excessive amount of heat.
How many cooling devices, and how many per cylinder?
Four 5x5 electric radiators can cool a 3 cyl 3x3 at 15 RPS, and four liquid heatsinks at the bottom of the hull will cool the same engine, but with 12.5 RPS max.
It is important that you have the proper liquid flow rate. It should be above 100 l/s, and steady. Ideally 150+ l/s.
Do not add junctions in the pipe to parallel the radiators, this will cut down the flow rate and, despite there being more cooling devices, it will NOT cool much better.
Give them their own cooling manifold and pump.
If you must use more than one in a loop, such as I did with the liquid heatsinks (2 pairs in series w/separate pump for each series pair), it is best to plumb them in series, and no more than a few because as the temperature difference decreases, cooling will decrease.