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That's... really not even close to true. 5 tiles up intake of coolant to an engine, the most common use for a the water intake, won't supply a medium engine enough coolant unless pressurized with a pump.
Please test claims before claiming things.
Weird.
Just tested all 3 diesel engines, no load, with load (downward facing large ducted fan), at 20RPS and a single small radiator per engine, 10 straight pipes below the respective coolant connections (2.5m), cooling just fine, capping out at ~112.5°, so plenty of cooling without pumps.
Switching the small radiators with 1x3x1 volume custom water tanks (46.875l each), no pumps, 10 straight pipes below also provided plenty of cooling, again no difference between load or no load at 20RPS.
With this setup temperature capped between 38° and 44° depending on engine size for some reason.
Unless I'm missing something you don't even need pumps for coolants, even with coolant source 10 blocks below the coolant connections of the engine.
One might think radiators/heat sinks using specific coolants might do a better job keeping an engine cool than using regular water.
You're testing the temperature difference between load/no load. Not at all what we're talking about. Try the same setup, same load, but with/without pumps.
Edit:
Tested with medium engine, a medium gen as load, rps capped at 20, small radiator 12 blocks below the engine. Without pumps, temp goes up to 110, with pumps it goes up to 107.
Tiny difference, but it might change depending on the setup.
I personnaly never use pumps for coolant tbh, but there is definitely a difference.
Edit 2: same test same setup but radiator 12 block above the engines, temps i got : 107.6 with, 109.4 without pumps
Edit 3: just to be sure, did it again with 16 blocks... engienes run 0.5 degrees cooler for some reason.
Edit 4 : testing with a water tank 14 blocks below the engine, same engine setup: with pumps, temp rises to 18.8, without pumps 53.4. There's a massive improvement when using water overall, even more with pumps.
Edit 5: Exact same setup, bu reduced the height difference to 3 blocks. With pumps, temp rises to 23.6, and 30.2 without pumps. It seems that pipes dissipate some heat too...
My Conclusions: pumps are useless when using radiators, but you should use water anyways, where pumps can massively improve your cooling.
My testing was related to Ra-Ra-Rasputins claim that pumps are mandatory for (medium engine) cooling with a Z difference of 5 blocks, as can be seen in his quote in my post.
Testing with/without load was to make sure load doesn't affect temperature increase and was not the sole point of the test, just another parameter.
Hence I tested radiators and water cooling without pumps at a Z difference of 10.
Of course pumps, depending on circumstance, improve cooling, often by a lot. Didn't say otherwise.
As of now engine temperatures don't affect engine performance in any way, all that counts is to stay below 120°, which a single radiator does perfectly fine, even at a Z difference of 10.
Wondering how the rads function? Do the pipes already contain enough fluid to function or do I need to add water to the radiator system? Can you mix radiator and fluid cooling? It stays at a max 95 degrees currently.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2181274938
12 radiators? Ouch.
Engines and radiators come "pre-filled" with fluid, as of now a single custom water tank with 1x3x1 interior volume will outperform radiators.
What's your RPS at? Try gearing the engine so it performes well at 7.5RPS to maximize fuel efficiency and bring down heat generation a lot.
You can also pump fuel through the engines as coolant to circumvent having to build another fluid tank for water coolant, though that comes with its own downsides. Like this: Fluid tank -> engine coolant input - engine coolant output -> engine fuel input.
Might be the best solution, especially if you keep the engines around 7.5RPS.
Comparably you can ruin your engine cooling by having a pump also exist on the output hose unless strictly necessary. Try an engine sitting at the bottom of a basic hull where the intake and output of the cooling both have pumps, then try again with the output pump replaced with pure pipes.
The difference is there because the engine seemingly wants to keep a set amount of coolant in it at all times, and it outputs heated coolant. However, if you actively drain the engine, even if you supply it with the same(ish) amount, the cooling is significantly diminished.
It’s currently running at 25 rps. I messed with gearing a lot but changing this from its current 2:1 2:1 lowers the weight it can lift.
Interesting 🤔 will have to remember that. Pump coolant in but not out 👍
Well you CAN have a pump draining the coolant, as long as it's draining slower than the input pump is filling it up, achievable by using the power slider using the select tool on the pump.
At 100% you get 150l/s best case scenario.
Good points by Ra-Ra-Rasputin otherwise, internal volume for coolant sure is something to consider.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2184187312
Particularly notice the difference between the second leftmost and the middle engine. In pump setups they are identical, but the middle engine runs much, much cooler.
The back/forth pump in this setup is the most efficient, but it is not so if you're in a boat, because due to waves and whatnot, any gap in the waves will gush out the coolant without taking in any to replace it.
Enough to fully meet its need for coolant. If the pipe is particularly long (front of a speedboat with the intake at the back) regardless of limited vertical travel you'll still need/want it.