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I do think that a change was made to the algorithm that simulates the aim sway in the previous update (before the AUS map was introduced), as I did get the impression that the sway had become a bit more pronounced. As Sarge said, the sway is deliberately exaggerated in the game compared to real life shooting, mostly because the algorithm assumes that you are supporting the weapon foreend and butt stock - there are no bipods, or other shooting support rests to hold the weapon rock steady. Supposedly shooting from a permanent hunting stand or ground blind reduces the effect by an extra percentage - if it does, it's not all that noticeable.
This is how aim sway works in this game: (a) they are tracing out a Lissajous figure (Google it) ( it's what you get when you have a 2D harmonic oscillator, like a rifle barrel fixed at one end, and free to move in the horizontal and vertical directions). My guess is that there is a base amplitude parameter that sets the maximum amount of sway, and then they apply a series of multiplicative reduction factors to it
The first factor is the weapon's accuracy - the higher the value, the less the amount of sway. I think what they've done is to divide that base amplitude by the accuracy, so a rifle with accuracy of 100 gets 1/100 of the amplitude, 80 gets 1/80th, 35 gets 1/35th, and so on. The reason I think it's a division i(instead of a subtraction from 100 as the amplitude) is that even a rifle with an accuracy of 100 still has a small residual sway - it's never really zero.
To reduce the sway, then, they take the base amplitude and multiply it by a series of numerical factors 0.0 < f <=1.0.
So f_accuracy = 1 / accuracy
The numbers below are for example only, (only the designers know the real values LOL)
The next factor comes from your stance:
f_standing = 1.0 (so no effect)
f_crouched = (something less than one, say 0.50, for example)
f_prone = (even less than above, say 0.25, for example).
Then the perks come in:
Steady Hands None: f_sh0 = 1.0
Steady Hands Level 1: f_sh1 = 0.5 (say)
Steady Hands Level 2: f_sh2 = 0.25, (say)
Breath Hold Level 0: f_bh = 0.75 (say) (you always have some breath hold)
Breath Hold Level 1: f_bh1 = 0.50(say)
Breath Hold Level 2: f_bhs = 0.05 (say)
of course breath hold is time limited
There may be other factors: supposedly shooting from a permanent hunting structure reduces the number by an additional 20%, so f_huntstand = 0.80
Not in hunting structure: f_huntstr = 1.0
In Hunting structure: f_huntstr = 0.80
Thus the final aim sway amplitude would be
A = base * f_accuracy * f_position * f_sh * f_bh * f_huntstr
Doing it this way makes it easy to add in new factors - imagine if you had a bipod: f_bipod = 0.001 and you are done
Oh, scope zoom factors, while it doesn't change the physical amplitude (A) does magnify the apparent angular size of the sway, because, well, that's how telescopic optics work :)
The weapons are only under-powered relative to their real life counterparts, because of the maximum render distance for animals limitation. You can't see animals beyond 450m, so a weapon doesn't have to be effective beyond that distance.
This is where the ammunition effective range and recommended class ranges come in.
kay, here goes:
You need to take into account the following parameters for weapons and ammunition:
1. accuracy: this controls the amount of aim sway ( essentially as a divisor of some internal standard amplitude) so the larger the value, the less the sway. You can also get further reductions by shooting crouched or prone, and getting the aim stability perks (breath hold, steady hands). The less the aim sway, the easier it is to hold a steady aim point and get a more accurate shot.
2. ammunition recommended class range: affects the harvest check, and determines what classes of animals for which the weapon will be effective (more later)
3. ammunition penetration: essentially the maximum distance (as a % of body size, I believe) for the maximum animal class (item 2).
4. ammunition expansion: a measure of how big the wound channel could be.
5. ammunition effective range: the maximum distance for which the ammunition will be effective enough for the largest recommended animal class, to potentially get a 100% quick kill bonus, or equivalently, to potentially achieve the maximum penetration and expansion values.
6. recoil - this is important for how quickly you can regain the sight picture and aim again for a second shot (there is a perk to reduce it). I think you can use this number as representative of muzzle energy and momentum, to compare weapons. So, the 338 has a recoil of 100, whereas the 300 Canning has something like 85(?) Both are class 7-9, and you'd expect the 338 to have more muzzle energy than the 300, as well as a heavier bullet.
7. animal body size and weight: the bigger they are, the harder it is to make them fall.
So, here are the qualitative implications:
1. For effective range, it will increase for a target animal class < ammunition maximum recommended class.
1a. for a target distance greater than the effective range(target class), the quick kill bonus starts decreasing, and the probability of a one-shot kill decreases rapidly. This is all about retained ballistic kinetic energy and momentum, just like in real life shooting.
In real life, a 7mm Remington Magnum cartridge with a high BC bullet has enough retained energy to be (potentially) effective on: a whitetail deer at 900yds, an elk at 650yds, a moose at 400yds, and maybe a bison at 100yds (but I wouldn't try it LOL)
2. For penetration, it will increase for a target animal class < maximum recommended class.
3. For animals of a given class, the size/weight will basically determine how much tissue the bullet has to go through to reach a vital organ, and this is where penetration comes in.
Now, all of the above are affected by:
1. the animal's presentation: broadside, quartering, full front, rear, relative elevation difference between you and the animal. Broadside/0 elevation difference is the ideal, as it presents the least amount of tissue for the bullet to pass through on its way to a vital organ.
2. where you aim on the animal's body: ideally you want to place your shot in such a way that the bullet trajectory inside the animal would pass through a vital organ, ideally the heart and/or lungs. You also want to avoid bone if you can, or at least have enough energy and momentum to pass through the bone and still make it to a vital organ. Quite often, you will hit a rib or the scapula on the way to a lung, depending on the trajectory.
3. this game is driven by randomness, so when you take a shot, it introduces a bit of random error into the trajectory (part of that comes from the residual aim sway), and some randomness into the terminal ballistics, so sometimes you are just unlucky.
Oh, this game has a maximum animal render distance of about 450m (last time I checked), so beyond that cutoff, you can't see or otherwise interact with animals.
It seems that they designed the weapons and ammunition to suit that limit - if you can't see animals at 450m, you don't need to be able to reach out to that distance to take them down.
So, now for some examples:
The 243: accuracy: 78, class range:2-6, effective range: 150m; penetration: 30(poly-tip), 15(soft-point). So, easy to shoot, low recoil.
The bullet will have enough energy and momentum at 150m to be effective for a class 6 animal, but with only a penetration of 30%, it's unlikely you will get a double lung shot, and no 100% quick kill bonus, and that's assuming the optimum shot placement. Even the chances of a single shot kill are low at that range.
The 6.5mm: accuracy: 70, class range: 4-8, effective range: 200m; penetration: 40(poly-tip), 20(soft-point).
So, with good shot placement and a poly-tip bullet, you can potentially take a maximum weight class 8 animal out to 200m with a 100% quick kill bonus, and a high probability of a one shot kill, but with some tracking to do.
For a class 6 animal, well, I've taken Red Deer, Caribou and Wildebeest out to 200m with 100% quick kill bonus, 200-400m with one shot kills, provided I wait for that perfect shot and get it. I generally prefer getting in closer than 200m as opposed to taking those long range shots; this is hunting and not a PRS competition, and it's more challenging to get in closer than 150m to these animals, and you have more retained energy/momentum to work with.
I don't know the exact formula they are using to determine how the effectiveness, as measured by the quick kill bonus, scales with target animal class, downrange distance, and weight for each weapon and its ammunition, so the above is based on my experience and observations in the game. I also don't want to spend time gathering all the relevant data to analyze, either LOL.
I do think the width of the recommended class range plays a part: the 7mm (class 4-9, effective range: 150m) will take a class 9 down at 150m, with a one shot kill, and maybe a 100% quick kill if you are lucky, but the 300 Canning( class 7-9, effective range: 150m) will take that class 9 down at 150m with 100% quick kill rather easily
That's basically how you estimate what each weapon can do against the animals in the game, and how you can make good choices as to what works and why.
Maybe I should post these in Tips and Guides, eh?
It's alot of work, I hope it's worth your time and effort. Not sure how many people go to those other threads.
Could be....I made a copy of the effective range discussion in Notebook++ as a text file, after I had put all that together for one of our other topics. I made a copy of the accuracy calculation as well.
I see it too. Some micro-stutter. Can't tell if it's new, I usually don't use the Argus. But for Roo hunting it is really useful.
Edit: It affects the other scopes as well, but it's much less noticeable.
Yes, the Argus is a bit more of a challenge to control the aim point and hold it steady long enough to get an optimal shot. It can be done with practice and patience, especially if you use the high accuracy rifles - the 22 calibers, the 243, the 6.5mm and the 300 Canning - anything with less than a rating of 50 becomes progressively more difficult. Not impossible, but you do have to be patient and not rush the shot.
Yes.
I appreciate all the info everyone posted but its not the "sway" of the gun. Its a literal micro stutter or vibration that happens when holding breathe. My buddy doesnt have it when he is using a controller. So maybe its something with input on my mouse?
Ah, yes, I see something like that as well (I use an XBox controller on my PC). I tried increasing the deadzone on the Aim Input (right stick on the controller), but that had no noticeable effect. I even took my thumb off the stick, and I have breath-hold (left stick press down) on a toggle, so I don't have to hold it
It's so small, (maybe a 1px amplitude, which isn't much at 4K resolution on my 32" curved HD monitor) that I might not have thought to look for it until you described it. If it has an effect on the ability to shoot accurately, I can't say it's a significant problem. I'm going to run the game on my PS4 with a 4K 55" flat screen HDTV
It doesn't seem to be strongly affected by scope magnification. Perhaps it is related to the video settings (resolution, FOV, or inherent frame refresh rate), or video hardware, given that your friend doesn't see it.
The game does add in a bit of random error when calculating the bullet trajectory (to simulate all those variables that would affect it in real life, but are not included in the physics), but I can't imaging that it's adding this tiny vibration on top of the scope aim sway.
Oh great, Veiny, now I'll never be able to unsee this - oh, my eyes! LOL
LOL Feel my pain!!!
I notice the small things and then cant unsee it lmao.
I play on 1080p and its much more notibeable than a pixel change. Its almost feels like frame skips but Im not losing frames.
https://streamable.com/wzt8j3
Here I got a great video of it. Laying prone on the beach. I let it sway at first then tried to control it with my mouse and ♥♥♥♥ rubber bands like crazzy.