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Any town or village will do, including Whiterun. You just need to be patient, move slow, use cover to reset the discovered status, and even more patience when you realise how slow it is if you haven't levelled it up right from the start.
oh, and by the first perk in sneak as soon as you can, a 20% increase (20% of your level not 20% against others) can help prevent others discovering you long enough to get a bit more levelling.
Go around any NPC, hostile or not. Make sure you are nearby, but not detected. Go into sneak mode and do donuts constantly. The closer you get to being detected, the faster it progresses.