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This is the most robust way and stops your aquatuner or pipes getting damaged, you just have to be patient.. once the pool reaches the target temperature it's fine. Also, with a closed loop you can use whatever coolant you want in the pipes.. early game I use polluted water as it has a lower freezing temp than clean water, later I switch to super coolant.. it's also very easy to switch out the coolant in a closed loop.
This is a simple setup i'm using at the moment:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2387412365
The problem is the three blobs of water in the pipe below the aquatuner - those are much colder than the water coming from the reservoir on the left, and they do take priority. Pipe sensors don't work if you have blobs of hot water alternating with blobs of cold water.
The easiest fix for this is to add a liquid reservoir which could average the temperatures (turn on the left pump when the reservoir contains less than 1t of water).
https://ibb.co/17xDbj1
Not this:
https://ibb.co/f94p88d
in place of 2 shutter, just make 1 and make a left turn to do(if not)
The pipe damage happened 2-3 times more like in the next few cycles.
Then I changed the gold AT in steel : that’s the only change I did.
Now 40 cycles later, no issue at all so far.
The only difference I see is when it was in gold, I stopped it automatically just before overheating.. so there was some times a lot of ON-OFF’s. Could this make the game bugging ? Go figure out.
This is the first (too) slow system I’ve recreated from online (pool is 8 tiles, not 6), cooling circuit is dedicated. With newbie mistake as I used normal water for cooling, I could have cold the polluted one more.. I could still change that and see how “faster” it would be.
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2390450095
Next time I will try as suggested with a tank/pool and see how it goes.