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An unarmed build would let you stun the 2 super mutants on the way to the working elevator by striking the groin.
You can go to the vats floor, convince the supermutant next to the mister handy (yes its possible to do that without a robe)
Grab the plastic explosive in the chest, blow up a robe guy to steal his robe
Ngl I dont remenber if there is a way to convince these two guards without a robe, I mostly remenber them having different dialogues than all the other guards.
Though one thing you can do is to wait with your pip boy for the one in leather Armor to be in front of the woman in the other cell
Like that you can sneak past him by passing behind him.
For the other one though, guess I'll have to check myself what are the options without a robe.
Though fr, you shouldn't let yourself be captured unless you are trying to Speedrun or something.
You can already be pretty stealthy with the military base without letting yourself getting caught.
I guess the only way to successfully do it that way is with a full unarmed build so i stopped trying and resume normal game route.
I remenber them dropping robes when they kill themselves after you killed the lieutenant (they straight up explode when you talk to them in that context)