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Nway, Steel Protection ring, Havel's Set and Shield, weapon is your choice, though, I would carry the Dragon Slayer Axe and Lothric Knight Sword as backup for foes that cannot be staggered, if you are going for Dex, Katana and Spear will do, although, A Dex Build shouldn't be tanking nway in the first place ...
Armor does help, but not as much as you would think, for instance with 20 vigor and a heavy armor i can survive a direct heavy hit from the dancer, without it, i can't.
It's just enough defense so you don't can afford to make a mistake or two.
anything past 22 vigor won't net you a good ammount of health.
when the silver knights have infinite reach with their rapid-hitting lightning spears
this game is shid
Also Vit determines your resistances which caps at 40, if you want to take a big hit you have to increase Vit.
I found that putting HP to 1K and leaving it there is enough to clear the game easily. It lets you eat 2-3 bad hits and survive, maybe 4 if it's a combo or not too strong.
IIRC the Armor protection was something like each 10 of armor gave you 1% damage reduction. So if you fought your way up to 300 you'd "only" be taking a third less damage from attacks - but for what it costs to get there, armor, equip load and rings, it's super not worth doing that.
IF you want to be survivable, try to learn dodges\timings for rolls and push Stamina. Stamina lets you swing weapons more often (more damage) or retreat in danger, it is the single most important non-combat stat in the game.
I find shields in this game to be really ♥♥♥♥. Even the high stability shields (high stab = less stam dmg when blocking) tend to drain your meter in 2-3 hits tops, so I'll only ever use "effect" shields (bonus stam regen, souls, that kind of stuff).
Some will also do massive sweeping 5-8 attack comboes that you CANNOT defend as it WILL go through your stamina - so dodging is a better idea.
That's how dmg is in DS3. You aren't supposed to tank hits, even with havel's and iron flesh. You either block and counter, dodge or parry.