Steam Controller

Steam Controller

Steam Controller automatically turn off issue
Hello,

I notice a weird issue happening on my S.C since yesterday.

While Steam Keyboard is on, then pressing Left Trigger or Right Trigger will instantly turn off the controller.

But when not using the Steam Keyboard, both button are working normally as usual.

Anyone else having this issue too or it is just me ?


Thanks.
Messaggio originale di cammelspit:
If you check the voltage of a battery outside of it being loaded, it will show way more voltage than you would think. The moment they get loaded, the voltage drops, especially with cheaper cells or old cells having sat on a shelf too long. The SCs cutoff voltage is 1.1v on the Rev 9 boards, release model, and almost exactly 1.0v on Rev 10 boards, a later model. However, this does not take into account the current draw. As the controller loads the cell, the voltage will drop due to internal resistance in the batteries themselves and the voltage drops harder as more current gets used. A battery that is alkaline, which are the only ones that are 1.5v when talking AA cells, is between 1.2v and 1.3v it is essentially almost out so the voltage will drop substantially more, perhaps under the threshold of the SCs boost circuit. 1.38v is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 70%+ discharged. Either you have a particularly bad set of batteries, BT takes more power than the normal wireless mode, or you have a low-quality brand of batteries; all of this will cause what you mention, or any combination thereof. Not to mention that all my actual testing was done long before rumble emulation was implemented so if that setting is on, which for most of us it usually is, you will get spikes in power usage and the corresponding voltage drop far beyond what I had initially tested back in 2015. Either way, your mention of it being when you type, that pings the haptic actuators so that makes a lot of sense to me.

I'm not saying you are wrong in thinking it's the SC, but it's essentially not going to happen. Batteries are consumables so they can sometimes be made poorly, you get a bad or weaker set that doesn't perform as well. The SCs boost circuit is either working or it's not. If it weren't, I would be surprised if it would light up at all. This is mainly meant as just a bit of information as I, for some stupid reason, am somewhat of a battery nerd. It just interests me. 😜

Another little bit of advice, don't spare the wireless dongle. Use it. They have a measurable and noticeably lower input lag that even the best BT adapters on the market and they are replaceable if you break it for some reason down the road. This is just my opinion but I suspect the dongle to last longer than the controller by FAR. I am still using mine from my first SC that I got in October 2015 and it purrs like a kitten. I would only use BT if you are wanting to use a laptop or travel with your SC as the SCs wireless dongle is bigger and you can't just buy another at Walmart if you lose it.

Another bit of advice, Get rechargeables and charge them up before they go totally dead, I do that and I simply never have to worry about it. The SC sips power compared to other controllers and lasts magnitudes longer per set of batteries even with the haptics on full tilt in a game that uses them a lot so I wouldn't be too concerned.
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I fixed this case (Bluetooth mode) by changing to new batteries.
The old batteries both still have 1.38 volt (of 1.5 volt).... which consider batteries are still strong.
I did not try for Wireless mode for this case, I assumed the old batteries will work with Wireless mode considering my similar previous case below.

The last time I have issue with S.C unable to start Bluetooth mode (instantly turn off when started) but at the same time was able to start Wireless mode (working normally).
The batteries are also main culprit here, changed it to new batteries solved this issue.

I think Steam Controller is just too sensitive with the battery power when it comes to Bluetooth mode ?


Note : I always use Bluetooth mode only (ultimate goal is to spare the original Wireless dongle from broken). While the Bluetooth dongle can be easily replaced with any 3rd party dongle.

This thread can be close anytime.

Thanks.

L'autore della discussione ha indicato che questo messaggio risponde alla discussione originale.
If you check the voltage of a battery outside of it being loaded, it will show way more voltage than you would think. The moment they get loaded, the voltage drops, especially with cheaper cells or old cells having sat on a shelf too long. The SCs cutoff voltage is 1.1v on the Rev 9 boards, release model, and almost exactly 1.0v on Rev 10 boards, a later model. However, this does not take into account the current draw. As the controller loads the cell, the voltage will drop due to internal resistance in the batteries themselves and the voltage drops harder as more current gets used. A battery that is alkaline, which are the only ones that are 1.5v when talking AA cells, is between 1.2v and 1.3v it is essentially almost out so the voltage will drop substantially more, perhaps under the threshold of the SCs boost circuit. 1.38v is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 70%+ discharged. Either you have a particularly bad set of batteries, BT takes more power than the normal wireless mode, or you have a low-quality brand of batteries; all of this will cause what you mention, or any combination thereof. Not to mention that all my actual testing was done long before rumble emulation was implemented so if that setting is on, which for most of us it usually is, you will get spikes in power usage and the corresponding voltage drop far beyond what I had initially tested back in 2015. Either way, your mention of it being when you type, that pings the haptic actuators so that makes a lot of sense to me.

I'm not saying you are wrong in thinking it's the SC, but it's essentially not going to happen. Batteries are consumables so they can sometimes be made poorly, you get a bad or weaker set that doesn't perform as well. The SCs boost circuit is either working or it's not. If it weren't, I would be surprised if it would light up at all. This is mainly meant as just a bit of information as I, for some stupid reason, am somewhat of a battery nerd. It just interests me. 😜

Another little bit of advice, don't spare the wireless dongle. Use it. They have a measurable and noticeably lower input lag that even the best BT adapters on the market and they are replaceable if you break it for some reason down the road. This is just my opinion but I suspect the dongle to last longer than the controller by FAR. I am still using mine from my first SC that I got in October 2015 and it purrs like a kitten. I would only use BT if you are wanting to use a laptop or travel with your SC as the SCs wireless dongle is bigger and you can't just buy another at Walmart if you lose it.

Another bit of advice, Get rechargeables and charge them up before they go totally dead, I do that and I simply never have to worry about it. The SC sips power compared to other controllers and lasts magnitudes longer per set of batteries even with the haptics on full tilt in a game that uses them a lot so I wouldn't be too concerned.
I didn't know Voltage would drop as soon as it gets loaded.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, they are very detailed :D

For me I have more luck when using Alkaline batteries (they last longer on SC) than Carbon batteries. Haven't give a try on rechargeable batteries yet, but will surely try one next time.

Thanks~
Oh yeah, I mean the old school style of cylindrical cells pale in comparison to alkalines for sure. I don't think I have used a carbon cell since I was a kid, at least 20-25 years ago minimum, that's no contest. Rechargeables have come a long way in that time as well. Nickel Cadmium cells were the first widely available rechargeable cells but they suffered from a memory effect and a severe self-discharge rate. You charge up a set, let them sit for a month and they will be half or worse of the charge they started out at. The memory effect is where crystals form internally in the cell and cause a loss of capacity over time. Nickel metal hydride cells, on the other hand, were much better before, even better now. In my experience, they typically get lost or too damaged to be usable long before their still present but substantially reduced memory effect kicks in. Modern NiMH cells also have low internal resistances if you get good quality ones and can be charged to hundreds of cycles before they need to be replaced. I HIGHLY recommend getting some. For me, basically, the only thing I don't use them in is my electric toothbrush because ingress of small amounts of water over time will corrode them ruining them and they are much more expensive to just lose so early.

All in all, you will pay a lot less for a few good rechargeable cells over time as long as you use them more than a few dozen times, which is easy to do. I JUST yesterday re-upped on some NiMH cells and I got a nice set from Costco on sale for 26.99. Comes with YET ANOTHER charger, 6 AA cells, 2 AAA cells, 4 C cell, and 4 D cell adapters. These are the nicer, and newer, model of Panasonic Eneloop branded cells available right now, HR6. These are by FAR overkill for the SC but I use so many of them I am ok with spending a little extra when they are on sale like this. There are some of the Amazon Basics black labels which are supposedly Eneloop rewraps and they are cheaper with higher capacity but lower Internal resistance so would probably be the better choice for use with low drain devices like the SC.

I also don't normally use the chargers they come with. They charge too fast for me, Eneloops at up to 2 Amps which reduces their usable life span over many cycles. Personally, I use a Nitecore D4 charger and when populated with 4 batteries it charges at 365ma. Generally, you don't want to do more than 500 if you can avoid it regularly. besides, that's what all the whitepapers and ratings for capacity and charge/discharge curves are based on.

https://cloud.connollyhouse.net/index.php/s/s6A5MwXcCDgR5gt
The link expires on Friday. But this is the set that I ended up with yesterday.

I also have many other brands I have collected over the years so if you need or want any more recommendations, just let me know.

EDIT: Damn it, I did it again... 🤣
Ultima modifica da cammelspit; 24 mar 2019, ore 16:42
I remember using NiCAD rechargeable batteries when I was a kid, they are superb initially.
I used it a lot on my Tamiya and Remote control toys. But went down to terrible state (discharge) very quickly.

Maybe like what you said due to it's memory effect and I guess RC toys are a high drain appliance too. Or it was simply just because of improper re-charging done by me
(hey I was only a kid that time who just wanted to play my RC toys so badly :steamhappy: )

Well you got yourself a good deal for a complete set. With the same amount of yours
I think I would only get 4x AA batteries with Charger here in my place lol

I was so disappointed with my first experience with recharge battery, which until today I have never bought another one haha.

As you suggested, maybe I'll get myself a NiMH recharge batteries since they have no memory effect.

Thanks again.
NiMH cells do indeed still have a memory effect as to even Li-Ion cells, only the effect is substantially less than with the old NiCD style. NiCD cells were just SO bad that most of us just decided it wasn't worth it anymore. Like, if you didn't discharge the battery entirely to zero before recharging it, that's where the biggest negative effects would start to kick in. Technically, NiMH cells, since they are Nickel based chemistry have similar issues only less pronounced. Funny thing though, I once had a few sets of no-name NiMH cells, an older style, that I used to keep in the freezer between charges, always discharged it 100% before charging and always slow charged it with as slow a charger as I could find. That set lasted me literally a decade before they were just unusable. The newer ones you would buy now are just better more refined chemistry so they just don't need as much care. I usually get a good 3+ years out of them without fuss with as often as I use them.

Now, all you need to do is ask me about Lithium Ion chemistry and I can go on another rant about batteries. 🤣
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Data di pubblicazione: 22 mar 2019, ore 18:00
Messaggi: 6