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I would say it's definitely the latter, but I'm new at this game so I would wait for someone with more experience before making up my mind.
From what I've heard, you may have to grind a little for potions later on. But it's very strategic and complex, no doubt about that.
You can try the full version for free if you download it from the developers website:
http://www.adom.de/home/index.html
It doesn't have all the functions that the Steam version has, but it can help you to make up your mind.
If you want to try a roguelike with no grinding what so ever, you can try Tales of Maj'Eyal (also for free) at http://te4.org/. However, I like ADOM better than ToME so far.
Have fun!
Another thing you can do to reduce even feeling the need to grind at all is getting the treasure hunter talent (Alert and Miser required) which increases the drop rate of all monsters.
On average I'd say most games don't require any extensive grinding but if you're not in a rush it doesn't hurt.
Playing a lot will help you succeed though... but it will mostly be in terms of playing a lot of characters and getting them all killed as you figure out the mechanics and the most effective strategies.
One of typical probelms for starters is not understanding what they full tactical options are. Getting in some sort of proper flow would take some time too.
So unless you are supergenius at roguelikes, it will likely take quite some grind untillyou can enjoy full tactical potential.
Also I am not sure what so grindy about ultras after pots of exchange were changed. (and you walways had ecent chances with pools)
If I were to compare with similarly popular games, this game is similarly strategical to tales of maj'eyal (which emphasizes positioning and escape manuevers) but for different reasons (there is a lot more niche in the stuff you pick up, which can get you out of previously impossible to overcome situations through smart and tactful use of what you have available to you).
In short: grinding is an option, but I wouldn't consider it a necesity. You can't really grind for experience, only for items. This game has a fairly steep learning curve, so it might be beneficial to grind a little bit in the wilderness, to understand the wilderness as a resource in and of itself if nothing else.