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If you're using Vanilla Armor/Apparel Expanded the next step(s) directly up from the shirt/vest/duster combo would be a devilstrand Gambeson (replaces shirt, higher armor rating), and a Trooper Armor (marine armor version of a flak vest), the duster will remain as is.
Looking around, I found some stats on my power armor, and a description. Armor system works strange compared to what I was imagining.
Going to have to do a bit of digging to find all the numbers I need, but I think I can hack it from here.
Just to save me form another pair of searches, does the armor/clothes hp have a direct impact on how effective it is, or is it good until it breaks? And is there an exact number in what difference quality makes (eg, poor=-50%, Normal=well, normal, and masterwork=+50%)?
The quality will effect things like temperature thresholds, blunt/sharp resistance, etc.
A legendary devilstrand shirt is 50 sharp, a charge lance commonly carried by lancers is 45 AP which reduces that shirt to 5. A devilstrand duster is equally countered, at legendary it's 75 sharp minus the 45 AP of a lance is 30, that's "something" but it's not very good. Thrumbofur fares a bit better at 112 sharp protection at legendary, and on top of a high quality flak vest with bionic arms it's decent coverage for the torso, neck and shoulders (bionic arms are just shoulders), but very little leg protection. I think in most cases in most games you are going to want the marine armor on your colonists. If you can get the thrumbofur though then the duster (or cape) with flak vest is a viable alternative if you want that extra .28 movements speed.
Cataphract armor is just better though.
You might have found either outdated information or how it seems to work a lot for this game: new information based on old perceptions/undying meta.
Flak vests protect the torso about as much as a marine armour does (against sharp), which I think is why they are going for it. It also does not slow down your pawns as much and dusters are good for hot weather. Flak vests for dusters are nice to not outright die and work in it. Marine armour protects better and more as Astasia said. It's far more noticeable on melees though, that either take a lot of blunt damage or sharp damage that can slice over multiple limps. Flak vests + dusters don't really help you much with that.
I basically let my colonists run around in duster + flak vest and let the melees put on my cataphract armour when a relevant raid comes up. It's just too expensive for me to use 24/7. What's best armour is bound to use cases, but beating cataphract in for any use case is hard and beating marine armour already questionable.
Short, sweet, and to the point, at least as to how armor currently works.
I think I know what I'll be ranching next.
Feeding (and taming) Thrumbos (while doable) is a hassle in and of itself.
If you're interested in ranching some devilstrand though (instead of growing it), check out the Devilstrand Animals mod that adds the devilgoat. They shed devilstrand, give "devil leather" when butchered, etc. Just another option for a slightly faster strand production.
Hyperweave and thrumbofur both. There is usually enough wild thrumbo events to kit out your melees if you don't have 20 of them. Look for the armour stats on the material. In general "rare => good" is something to go by in Rimworld and if you see something you didn't see before, looking at it's stats will usually tell you what it's good for. Devilstrand has the benefit that you can just grow tons and the heat resistance, if you would be interested in that for some reason.
The flavour text can also be useful to hint what something is good for for many things. They tend to get updated when things get changed.
Edit: Rhino leather and heavy fur already come close to devilstrand.
For now, that's a slightly larger array of furniture, better micromanagement tools, and the ability to shape the terrain to suit my needs (at least as much as picks and shovels allow).