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Early game if you are using cloth to just get clothes out so people aren't naked, T-shirts are better than button downs because the protection doesn't matter (bypassed by every weapon's base AP) and T-shirts are cheaper and twice as fast to make. If you are specifically wanting to train your crafter though then formal shirt is the better option. If you have thrumbofur and an inspiration, ya button down or formal shirt is the way to go and that can realistically help a melee tank with the extra neck coverage.