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Maya are a really interesting civ in this game. I'm still not sure if their bonus to cities within 6 tiles of their capital is quite strong enough or if that needs a little tweak upwards, but otherwise I'm quite happy with them.
Regarding the observatory, I think that we need to discard the notion that Maya is a science power. Their science district is just... different, well adjusted to their peculiarities perhaps but not more powerful.
That will give you three observatories with +3 bonuses and three observatories with +4 bonuses, without needing any plantations. The three +3 observatories can be increased to +4 by placing a district at the adjacent ? spot.
if done right you will get more out of it than any other civ, especially they wont get boni at places you can.
You basicly have to forget everything about playing civ 6 and see this civ from a different point of view.... you don't play wide anymore but try to cramp you cities as much as possible.
Build 3 obvervatories next to each other, thats already +2 each, then place other districts around it (unless you have plantations).... it's somehow like playing a mix of germany/japan but with science.
On every map I've started where I've had plantation luxuries, the observatory has been crazy strong and felt really good. On every map where I'm stuck with furs or gypsum it feels....really bad.