Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
Discussions Rules and Guidelines
Report this post
As for the setup you can't access, maybe the setup is posted inside of a club thread and you don't have permission to see it? Anyway support can sort it out for you.
David
---
FFB is really much simpler than most people on the forums make it out to be. First, the defaults are correct about 95% of the time, so in general it should already be close to optimal out of the box. Here is a generic summary of what to do:
- Take the defaults in the driver (spring, damper, force all set to 100%), but increase the wheel rotation to 900 degrees
- Calibrate the wheel (recalibrate if you changed the driver) in iRacing, following the directions exactly. In particular turn the wheel exactly 90 degrees to the left when asked, without worrying about the numbers we display on the screen. Most wheels claim to be 900 degree wheels but actually turn out to be 870 degrees, or there about.
Set up iRacing with the following values:
- Damper set to off, you don't need this. It is only left here because it was there in nascar 2003.
- linear force unchecked. You don't need linear force unless you have a super fancy wheel
- Force set to between 8 and 20 depending on the car and track, 12 is a good first guess. You can use the 'F' meter while driving to see how close the FFB forces are to saturating (it turns yellow when you get close, and red when you saturate or clip). And you can use the F9 box to adjust the force level while driving as well. I like to set the force as high as I can without saturating, but some drivers like less force, the key is to not saturate or the wheel will feel lifeless.
- Min force attempts to correct a flaw (or feature, it is intentionally put there) in some wheels where the wheel will not react to our FFB commands unless the force goes above some minimum amount. This is especially important on a Logitech G27 wheel, those wheels need 10-20% min force in order to get them to react to any force at all. If min force is set too high, then the wheel will chatter when driving straight. So the simplest way to set it is just to try 10% and then 5% or 20% depending on if the wheel chatters or not, going back and forth until you get close enough to a reasonable number. You can also dig out wheel check and do some work to figure out the exact number, but in general you don't need that much precision, getting to within 5% of the correct value is probably good enough.
On top of all of that there are two parameters in the [documents]\iracing\app.ini file that you can mess with.
[Force Feedback] steeringFFBSmooth=1.0
This applies some smoothing to the FFB output, and is the only good way to stop a car that chatters too much from banging your hands to pieces. Damping will only make the problem worse, so use this instead. However before you apply smoothing make sure you are not overdoing it with the min force slider. The number is an odd one, you want to set it to 1/n where n is the number of samples to smooth, so 1/2 or 0.5 smooths two samples, 1/3 or 0.33 smooths 3 samples, 1/4 or 0.25 smooths 4 samples and so on. Going much past 1/5 or 0.2 is only going to add latency and not improve things at all for you. Oh and the default of 1/1 or 1 means one sample, or no smoothing at all.
[Force Feedback] steeringDampingMaxPercent=0.0
This is an experimental friction damper that I added in a season or two ago. It works really well on the G27 wheel to give it some weight and make it feel less plasticity, however it does not do much for belt driven wheel since they already have plenty of mechanical damping from the belts. Try a value of 0.2 and go up and down from there as needed.
I remember Driving Force times, much lighter wheel, it was an exeptional drive!
Why G27, the most common wheel, is so bland in iRacing?!
I Agree with the guy just above me, which I have posted below this statement.
My min force is 13%. Every g27 is different.
The reason is because Logitech is ♥♥♥♥ at making a consistent product and thought it was necessary to trim out the lower forces.
:) min force of 13-16% (based on wheel-check) should do you wonders
Also make sure you do NOT have linear checked. It may feel a little cooler at first but the g27 does not have the upper forces to make it worth while. Non-linear creates a force curb that allows lesser forces to play through the wheel. Reduces clipping as well. (Also mind that the forces are generated solely from the forces of the steering column on the whee, minus vibrations as most vibration effects are canned for other games)
If you'd like some literature we have 22 pages of David Tucker discussing the FFB of IRacing and how he occasionally would drive his personal vehicle into curbs just to test it out in real life
In either case, as you can tell IRacing is an enthusiasts sim and often caters to people spending more on the sim and on their sim rigs. It's designed for stronger wheels.
Eg: the g27 boasts 2.5Nm of constant force. Fanatec Clubsport wheelbase provides around 7 depending on wheel. Accuforce can pump out 13Nm.
The weakest max-force in the game, according to David, is around 12Nm. I believe this is the SRF